My Ride Modifications 

INDEX OF MODS: (Click to go there)


Modification Area

  (Click for Details)

Brief Summary

Headlight Kuryakyn/Adjure Diamond Cut Ice Halogen Headlight Assembly and Bulb, and Kisan Modulator
Front Lights 

Kuryakyn Halogen Silver Bullets (Small) - 2 sets - on crash & light bar

Emergency Flashers - Amber

Rear Lights 

Kisan Modulator, 2 sets of red LED Kuryakyn Silver Bullets

Emergency Flashers - Red

Horns   Rivco Electric Blasters, with relay
Communications Control unit with headsets, intercom, bike-2-bike, MP3, cell, radar, GPS interfaces
Go Power  MaxAir PODS, Cobra 2-1 pipes, and more
Bling-Bling  See the list - click the link
Other Functional Passenger Boards, Power Connections, Alarm, Rear Spring, Lowering Kit, Tach, clock & Temp Gauges, GPS, ORK, Windshield, Lowers, Crash bars & Pegs, Risers, Mirrors, Throttle Lock, Heated Gear
Tools & Techniques Cleaning, lift, wiring, synch tool,
Still to Come   Clutch, Alternator, Pro Needles, Bigger ORK lines, "Daddo" trailer, board relocate

Headlight Replacement:  (Seeing is everything!)

Kuryakyn/Adjure Diamond Cut Ice Halogen Headlight Assembly and Bulb: Installed into stock Yamaha Headlight shell (direct fit, piece of cake!). I am blown away by the difference this $70 and 1 hour change has made.  The light blazes out as far as any modern car headlight on high beam, and has a flat topped wide and deep pattern on low beam (BTW, low beam is as good as the stock setup HIGH beam with bright white halogen bulb added!).

I have aimed the light a tad high to get maximum reach. Aiming: Backed bike into garage so face of headlight lens was 10' from closed garage door; put mark on door exactly same height from floor as center of headlight bulb WHILE I WAS ON BIKE and another 2' lower (recommended target) - both exactly lined up with the long axis of the bike. I then focused the high beam exactly on the higher mark, centered side to side, and the low beam was exactly where it should be, too. Thanks to ISRA for this link: on how to do it.

Instructions, for the unadventurous:

-- remove windshield, if in the way 

-- remove two lower screws from the bucket -- remove the lens assembly from the bucket (pull on bottom, unhook on top) -- unplug the electrical from the back of the bulb (wiggle it off)-- NOTE: measure the amount of threads sticking thru each of the 2 aiming adjustment assemblies on the bulb assembly (screws in springs thru bracket) - will need to put them back to same when done -- unscrew the 2 aimers all the way out -- carefully remove the clip spring that holds the 3rd side of the bulb in place (grip one leg with needle-nose pliers and carefully rotate off to the side and pull out) -- unscrew 3 screws holding the old bulb in the frame

-- clean up all the parts so it will look pretty when done

-- put the new assembly into the frame and redo the 3 screws -- set that assembly into the outer ring and replace the spring clip (slip one wing in place, position the hold-down portion over the tang on the bulb assembly, gently push the other wing into place) -- attach the 2 aimers (screw inside the spring end into the nylon nut), and screw back to the same measures recorded above -- plug into bike electrical connection -- hang the assembly on the 2 "shelves" in/on the top of the bucket - push the assembly into the bottom of the bucket -- align the two lower holes -- screw in the screws, replace shield if removed

Helpful: right angle screw driver or flex shaft screw driver to work with the two lower headlight screws

To aim:  need 20 feet of level surface in front of a flat vertical wall and a buddy to help -- sit on bike, have buddy do all the work: measure from ground to center of headlight lens -- mark that height on the vertical surface and mark spot 2 inches lower (aiming spot) -- now line up bike perpendicular to the mark on the wall with headlight 10 feet from the wall -- turn off the lights (or sun) -- turn on the headlight high beam - use the two lower (aiming) screws to set right-left and up-down so the center spot of the light is on the 2 inch lower mark - or on the upper mark or anywhere in between to satisfy your need for light projection -- do it all by setting high beam only (low just follows along)

Note: I did this inside my garage, backed the bike in and put the marks on the inside of the garage door, as well as a mark on the floor for bike positioning - so I can redo/refine as needed --- AND I aimed at the higher mark - shines flat out as far as one can see on a dead flat road!

Lack ah said, the fit is drop in, but there is a spot of work to be done - fits nice, looks nice, works nice!!


Rear Lighting:      (Visibility Is The Name Of The Game!!)  Click for Picture

I have a $-step set of changes to make the rear more noticeable:

A. I installed the Kisan Brake Light Modulator - replaces the std tail bulb - flashes fast, then gradually slows down to sold on - very effective.

                 Good price at:

B. Then I installed a pair of Kuryakyn Small LED Silver Bullets, wired into the brake circuit and light ground wires, and mounted with Kuryakyn 7/8in - 1in  P-clamps onto the running light "moustache", just inboard of the running lights - mounted the clamp with the base of the P up and pointed toward the front of the bike - which places the lens of the Silver Bullet about even with the lens of the running light. Because the original brake lights are in place, no need to mess with LED compensator and the like. Ran wires to light junction box behind the plate, running them behind/below  the "pipe" and used real aluminum duct tape to hide and hold.

                Good price at:

C. Most recently, I installed a pair of Kuryakyn Small LED Silver Bullets, wired into the running light circuit and light ground wires, and mounted with a pair of JC Whitney Chrome 7/8in - 1/2in Clamps (bulky but good looking and the only 1/2in clamps I could locate). These are mounted to the outer bars of the Yamaha Package Shelf.  Wires are black-electrical-tape-wrapped (make them less visible) and routed directly over the top of the shelf and under my tall back bag, then under the center of the back of the shelf and into the same junction box - multiple layers of plastic electrical tape makes wire bundle stiff enough to be formed and hold its shape - so I left extra length to enable me to fold it forward under the shelf and then back to the rear and down.

Why the Silver Bullets?  Sleek and not to obtrusive, but very, very bright.  I am trying to preserve the basic look of the 1000 Classic - so have been using these Kuryakyn goodies from the "git go".  Have them in 2 places up front for driving / "see me" lights (see next item) and now two places / uses here in the rear.

D. Just added a custom made Emergency Flasher system to front and back of the bike.  The system is controlled by a remote that lets me have off/on and 4 different flash speeds.  Mounted a pair of 6-LED red clusters on the back of my trunk bag (since moved to a pair of L-brackets out of aluminum screwed on by the rear reflectors), and amber ones on the fork down tubes in the front of the bike.  Chose a remote because it gave me always on or 4 variable flash speeds and the ability to mount the remote anywhere on the bike - and gave me the ability to activate the flashers when away from the bike.  Got all my parts here: for total of about $115 (for front, back, control).  Bright as hell!

You see me quite well - coming and going.


Front Lighting:      (Visibility Is The Name Of The Game!!)   Click for Picture

I have a 3-step set of changes to make the bike more noticeable from the front:

A. Mounted one pair of Kuryakyn Large Halogen Silver Bullets with 35W Spot bulbs and Clear lenses (were amber in pics of bike) to the stock front running/turn light bar - just inboard of the stock signals. The wires are run behind the bar and then into the headlight bucket through its bottom hole, and wired via a relay with the High beam circuit as the relay "trigger". The power for the relay was run up from a heavy fused  line from the battery, and the ground is to a frame bolt near the original horn location.

B. Also, mounted one pair of Kuryakyn Large Halogen Silver Bullets with 35W Spot bulbs and Clear lenses on the Yamaha "crash" bar - just above the Kuryakyn pegs mounted on the bars.. The wires are run out of sight under the bars, held in place with real aluminum duct tape.  At the upper end of the bar, the wire is run behind the black plastic neck piece, up to the headlight and  into the headlight bucket through its bottom hole and wired via a relay with the Low beam circuit as the relay "trigger". The power for the relay was run up from a heavy fused  line from the battery, and the ground is to a frame bolt near the original horn location.

With both sets being wired in the headlight bucket, I can switch the trigger circuit between high/low as I wish. Currently running the upper, clear lights with the high beam (recently changed out Amber lenses for Clear) , but might switch  the trigger set so the upper clear lights will be on with the low beams - so I can aim them high and straight for added light when low beams are on, and the lower lights will be on for more "size" when the high beams are on).

Note: The P-clamps are slightly larger than the front marker bar.  I folded heavy duty kitchen aluminum foil until I had the right thickness, and just as wide as the width of the P-clamp groove. Then cut a strip long enough to fit under the entire P-clamp around the bar, tightened the clamp down and the chrome, aluminum, chrome "sandwich" made a good ground. As of 11/07 has been on five years - no problems.

Why the Silver Bullets?  Sleek and not to obtrusive, but very bright.  I am trying to preserve the basic look of the 1000 Classic - so have been using these Kuryakyn goodies from the "git go".  (See above item for rear light treatment)

C. Just added a custom made Emergency Flasher system to front and back of the bike.  The system is controlled by a remote that lets me have off/on and 4 different flash speeds.  Mounted a pair of 6-LED red clusters on the back of my trunk bag (since moved to a pair of L-brackets out of aluminum screwed on by the rear reflectors), and amber ones on the fork down tubes in the front of the bike.  Chose a remote because it gave me always on or 4 variable flash speeds and the ability to mount the remote anywhere on the bike - and gave me the ability to activate the flashers when away from the bike.  Got all my parts here: for total of about $115 (for front, back, control).  Bright as hell!


Horns:   Click for Picture

Set (pair) of Rivco Electric Sound Blaster horns - chrome on the outer half and medium grey on the inner (next to the bike body) - louder than most air horns, very raucous, and very, very noticeable.

One horn is mounted on each side, attached to one of the upper bolts for the Yamaha "crash" bars. Horns are mounted with trumpets facing forward and slightly down to drain out any splash. They are out of the main air flow, because they are behind the chrome lowers, but are not at all muffled by that location. Mounted to Yamaha bar upper front bolts - check clearance before finalizing mounts - left side horn is swung down below the bar and the right side above the bar (wanted both up, but had clearance problem on the left side relative to clutch cable/bracket). Also, must use Rivco's very flexible "brackets" - if you use stiffer ones you'll lose 1/2 your volume (fellow rider tried and did!).

Put relay where the stock horns were mounted:
-- For the power side of the relay, ran a fused hot wire from the battery, up under the tank, along the upper frame and down to the original horn location.
--I made a ground wire by putting a round terminal end on a wire and attaching it to the frame with the original horn mounting bolt.
-- For the relay trigger wires, I used the original horn wires with their existing connectors (seems like I remember breaking them apart)
-- I made up two sets of "driven" wires - one set going to each new horn on its own side of the bike - each set was a ground and a power wire with a connector on the horn end of each. The two ground wires were joined together near the relay and then joined to the frame ground (above). The two power wires were joined together near the relay and a connector added to the common end.
-- Connected the hot wire from the battery to the relay power connector, the combined grounds to the relay ground connector, and the original horn wires to the trigger connectors of the relay.
-- Wrapped it all up like a cocoon with black electricians tape, then over-wrapped it all with black duck/duct tape, and used a black zip tie to attach the bundle to the frame where the original horns were placed - out of sight, etc, etc



"Go Power":

Installed the MaxAir Engineering Predator dual pod air filter replacement kit with jetting changes and MaxMix PMS Screws.

I have installed Cobra 2 Into 1 pipes - absolutely love the sound with stock baffles - as shipped.  Can feel added power as measured by seat of the pants Dyno.

These two MODs - ROCK! Big, big increase in power! In the mid to upper end of the rpm range.  I can best describe the bike, as modified:  From Idle to 3000 rpm - "buff" Clark Kent with all the torque and power we know and love in the bike.  From 3000 to 6250 rpm (limiter) it is Super Bike.  Screams from a stop to 70 faster than a speeding bullet.  Creams most Harleys who try to run against me.  Just perfect! Until I get the urge to put in cams, or something like that. Ouch - that was me getting swatted by the book-keeper. (;-))

"Gorilla's" Performance Profile - Settings:

AIS:              Removed Completely - Ports Plugged with Bolts
CALIF.           Bike: No
MODs:          MaxAir Predator (Pro Needles not yet installed)
PIPES:          Cobra 2 Into 1 Exhaust
BAFFLES?    Stock - Un-drilled, still wrapped
MAIN SIZE:   Front: 150 Rear 150
PILOT SIZE:  Front: 22.5 Rear: 22.5
PMS:             MaxMix - 1 turn out (both F & R) - Still tuning
NEEDLES:     Front: Stock-2 thin shims Rear: Stock-2 thin shims
FLOATS:        Stock Settings (not adjusted)
OTHER:         NA

I will be leaving the stock air cleaner assembly in place cosmetically, in keeping with my goal of preserving as much as possible the stock appearance of the bike. (And I like the multiple circles on the right side.) Have routed the permanently installed hoses for carburetor synchronization out the former air intake into the cosmetic air cleaner - for ready access without tank removal. I also have installed a cig lighter power socket in the empty bowl base.

I had originally "plugged" the AIS, when I did the "do it yourself" air mod and added Slip-on pipes. I have since removed all parts of the AIS "system" .

Exhaust Options Replaced:

Samson Shogun Warlord Long Cannons Pipes (Loved them and they are loud!) they ship w/o baffles as straight, drag pipes. These pipes mount low on the bike and are very long - so long I was dragging the ends occasionally on exiting some businesses. I added billet chrome end pieces - made them longer, look better and preserved the roundness - so I can more easily change out baffles. (Also did progressive rear spring install for more height).

I have Big City Thunder "minimal" baffles, and  aftermarket Torque Cones (not tried yet - pain to redo pipe install), as well as Samson 2" baffles (loud) and also 1.5' baffles (quieter) and have made one of the Thumbscrew "lollipop back pressure" devices ( -- to test for best sound and performance / power delivery among the 5 options --- recognizing that straight pipes would rob me of 5-10% of my "Gorilla's" power.  Will report back here the results of my seat of the pants performance evaluations.  Also plan on making multiple runs on the Dyno at Blue Ridge Power Sports to see how power stacks up with the 5 alternatives - as soon as I stop spending $$ on "bling" and put aside $50 for an hour of time.

05/05/05 Update - Big City Thunder "baffles" too loud for my "sweetie" - running now with Samson 2' loud baffles and she doesn't mind the ride, and I like the sound.  So, when riding alone, its Big City thunder for me. When riding with my sweetie, its the 2" Samson's - and only 2 minutes to swap them over to Big city thunder! Note: Really only ride with the 2" baffles - too much effort to pull off the billet tips, swap baffles, reinstall the tips, etc, etc.

Note: Big City Thunder "baffle" - looks like the lollipop back pressure device, mounted in 3" short,1.5" to 1.75" diameter plain pipe - the backpressure comes from the lollipop and the minor pinch in of the restriction. Might want to save yourself $80 and make the DIY lollipop back pressure device.

OLD "Gorilla's" Performance Profile - Settings:

AIS:              Unhooked- Plugged
CALIF.           Bike: No
MODs:          MaxAir Predator
PIPES:          Samson Shogun Warlord Long Cannons
BAFFLES?    Samson 2" Minimal Baffles  (see below)
MAIN SIZE:   Front: 145 Rear 145
PILOT SIZE:  Front: 22.5 Rear: 22.5
PMS:             MaxMix - 1 turn out (both F & R) - Still tuning
NEEDLES:     Front: Stock-2 thin shims Rear: Stock-2 thin shims
OTHER:         Have tired: Lollipop Back Pressure Device, Big City Thunder, Samson 2" and 1.5' baffles


Power Options Replaced:

"Tony Anzalone" custom, do-it-yourself, Hy-Flow Factory Air Cleaner modification. Replaced the approximately 1.5 inch diameter stock air inlet hole on the back of a stock air filter assembly with 3 holes  - increasing intake area from about 3 sq-in to over 14 sq-in.  Cut away the center of a K&N air filter, giving it even more air flow area.  This feeds out of the air filter box to the upper air box through the stock air passage. (See it here).

Rejetting: Following Tony's original article, I had the bike rejetted based on my Cobra Slash cut Slip-ons - 115 Front cylinder and 112.5 Rear cylinder.  Subsequently while running on DYNO for dynamic tuning (rich / lean testing vs. torque/HP) my lead mechanic indicated the bike was over rich so we back down one "stop" on each cylinder to 112.5 Front and 110 Rear.  Seemeds to be fine based on running and plug check after 25,000 miles at those settings.

These changes coupled with the Cobra Slip-On Slash Cut Exhaust and rejetting, resulted in a DYNO measured increase in HP from 46 (stock) to 61 (modified) as measured at Blue Ridge Motor Sports, Harrisonburg, VA - my favorite mechanics.



Capabilities: Of the Communications Center Unit Itself

Rider-Passenger Intercom,

Helmet headsets (2), each with: 2 earpieces, 2 mikes

           (1 stick-on for full-face, 1 on boom for open face: 3/4, 1/2, shorty)

CB Interface with Push-to-talk for Rider & Passenger    (CB is separate purchase),

MP3 Player Interface - Monaural - over-ridden by CB in/out,     (Player is separate purchase)

Radar Detector interface (beeps in one ear)     (Radar detector is separate purchase)

Cell Phone Interface  (rings in your other ear)     (Cell phone is separate purchase)

Built in FM receiver - works! - overridden by CB in/out

Powered via 2 AA batteries (wish it had power inlet)

3 Mike Sensitivity settings

All the cables you need to connect everything

Multiple helmet mounting options / "thingies"

3" x 3.5" x 3/4' box - not water tight


Communications Center Unit  --  ALL of the Capabilities Listed Above Are INCLUDED!!!!

MotoComm AudioBoss AB-1m

        [ Click for detailed Diagram ]   [ Click for Specs ]  [ Click for Picture ]

Purchased from: California Sport Touring, Inc. [ ]

Price, shipped: $160

CB Hand-Held Radio:

Tested with both:

   Midland 75-785  - 40 channel - powered via 9AA batteries or included car adapter (my option)

   Maxon HBC-10C - 40 channel - powered via 9AA batteries or included car adapter (my option)

Price: approx $88, shipped for either one

MP3 Player - Old Pocket PC I had from before switching to Treo 600/650 Phone/MP3/Planner/Everything


Cell Phone - Treo 650 - Verizon Wireless



Communications Center - New location - inside the left rear hard bag - out of the weather and for easy access to turn on/off, change batteries, stowage of the rider and passenger headset cords when not in use.


CB Radio: mounted to 150-000 Chrome Cell Phone Caddy from J&P Cycles - just to the left of the risers

        (stowed in left hard bag when not in use)


MP3 Player:  mounted on 150-000 Chrome Cell Phone Caddy from J&P Cycles -

        (stowed in left hard bag when not in use)


Cell Phone:  Carried in hip holster pocket for now - safer!!

Summary:  Basic Intercom and CB - $295 ($160 + $88 + $47)  

                        Add $96 for 2 more mounts Plus existing MP3 & Cell


Units: mounted on bars -- as noted above


Power for CB, MP3 Player: In the old AIS hole, installed a relay driven by the headlight circuit (only on with ignition) and driving a "buss" to control several units.  Attached to the "buss" is a cig-lighter adapter and splitter - to allow installation of the two cig lighter plug that provide connection and voltage change functions for the MP3 and CB.  Wires are then then routed along the frame under the tank and out the top of the tank opening and then along the underside of the bars to each unit - cables were all wrapped in Radio Shack black coiled wire wrap for neatness, containment. Included in the bundle is the Tach wire - so have one neat cable to the bar.


Communication Center is mounted in left rear hard bag. I have the box (small: 4x4x1 inches) and spare wiring (extra PTT and cell phone and radar wires) a small container, wires running out the bottom to the various devices: CB, MP3 player, Cell phone (to be aware of calls for later handling), to my left grip for push-to-talk, to the back for the passenger headset and PTT, and the short cord to attach to my helmet cord is kept in the top of the bag - out of sight when not in use and handy to hook up when needed. The cables exit the back mostly out of sight as they run slightly forward and under the seat to their final destinations.  All are wrapped together in black duct tape for maximum "hiding".


IT WORKS!!!!  Fine!!!   All the functionality is there (don't use the FM-radio, have MP3, but FM also works)

Now that the unit is in the rear left bag - things are much, much better and much better looking!



Other Functional Changes:

Barons Offset Passenger Boards:  Originally mounted in place of the passenger pegs in the stock location for the pegs.  Since have relocated the boards downward by 2.5 inches, forward by 2.5 inches and out from the bike by 1.0 inch - making my dearly beloved wife much, much happier.  Drilled new holes for the board brackets into the boomerang and secured them with spare chrome bolts that came with the the boards (to allow Roadie install I think), securing them with lock washers, nuts and Locktite.


Added Power Connections:

A. In the old AIS hole, installed a relay driven by the headlight circuit (only on with ignition) and driving a "buss" to control several units. used to provide power for MP3 player and CB radio.


B. Ran direct for battery a fused circuit to a cig lighter power socket - mounted on the rear ward side of the empty dog bowl base - used to power cell phone on long trips - where place to recharge is needed.


C. Direct wired plug to connect electric garments: gloves, pants, jacket. Comes out under the left front side of the front seat - for easy attaching to the "suit:. When not in use, the cord is back folded several times, Velcro strapped and tucked up under the seat side skirt.


D. Direct wired the alarm, below.


GORILLA Alarm: Installed in the AIS "hole" with antenna wire under the front seat, and the warning LED installed through the tool box cover just in front of the lock.

Meltzer ME880 Marathons Tires: On the advice of a Roadie rider, I made the switch once my stock Dunlop's wore out (too darn soon). Love the Meltzer's - better ride, more aggressive in corners, much, much better tread life - just changed out the rear with almost 20,000 miles - now that'd tread life!  Currently inflated: 39 Front; 40 Rear.

Progressive Rear Spring: Replaced stock spring with PCS 825 to 1200 pound progressive spring, kept OEM shock.  Much better ride for me (350#) and me + passenger. Have adjustment set to hardest preload (7). Rides like a dream.

Cycle Foray Lowering Kit: Currently set at "stock" height - installed when I did the spring - just to be ready to try it out.

Barons 3" Tachometer - White, Lighted Dial, Bar Mounted:  Mounted between my Pro-1 risers (originally was just to the left of my risers), tilted up aimed directly at my face. Sweet looking, and functional. Note: to install, removed tank and left front plastic fork cover, slightly modified the provided piggyback clamps from Baron's (filed edge down on the male tab), plugged it in on the coil as instructed, reassembled - done in about an hour.

Clock & Temperature Gauges (Formotion): Mounted on the inside of the windshield - to the bolts which hold the plexi-glass to the chrome mounting strips

GPS - Palm Tom-Tom GPS Unit - Tom-Tom Software in Palm Treo "Cell Phone" (cell phone, PDA, MP3 player, camera, "everything device"). Mounted on RAM Universal PDA Cradle (# RAM-HOL-PD3U) with c-clamp mount to Bars - RAM Mount Aluminum Yoke Clamp with Standard Arm & Diamond Plate Assembly (# RAM-B-121-238U). Currently power is via GPS provided cig-lighter adapter with power cords for both Treo and GPS unit - Plugged into right side air cleaner mounted cig-lighter socket - cables are Velcro spot mounted to bottom of tank (just outside frame) so power cords can also be used with car - until get second set.  Mount Pix:

Jardine Oil Filter Relocator:  put on this beauty to get rid of the %^$#@ hassle of oil changing.  Slam bam. thank you ma'am - 5 minute oil changes! I run this with K&N chrome oil filters, and only use the beautiful chrome oil filter cover for showy occasions. It gets mighty yucky down there with the miles I ride on good ole Virginny roads, so like the idea of quick cover for "beauty".

Baron's V-65 Oil Relocation Beauty Cover:  Love the way it restores the "circles" look to what was a flat slab of chrome.  And the big V with superimposed 65 and Twin tells it like it is -- 65 cu in V-twin now running 61 horses on the way to a few more.  (Functional is in the eye of the beholder)

Yamaha Tall Windshield & Chrome Windshield Lowers:  Have the shield up as high as it will go and raked to be parallel with the tubes.  Was getting buffeted to heck-and-back at anything over 50 mph.  The forums guided me to the stock chrome lowers and man what a change.  Have run the beast up to about 110 and no more buffeting - at any speed.

Mustang Cruising Seat Set:  BEST MONEY EVER SPENT. I am big guy - 400 poundish - and the stock seat was killing me after about 45 minutes. Let myself be guided by the "experts" on the forums and several local riders, and opted for the Mustang seats - even though they moved me forward a little (I'm 6'5") they have been the BEST! I am now up to about 3 hours without dismounting, no pain. And boy does my wife love her seat. (Talk about getting some points!). Mounted stock Yamaha Sissy Bar, pad, and rails.

LeatherLyke Cross Country (large) Hard Bags & Mounts:  One of our club riders, "Gear Master", had the smaller version on his machine, and I like everything about the one's I chose: leather like look, size, lock ability, ease of mounting, ability to take them off and have good looks still back there, and the price (I caught them on sale at Cruiser Customizing and was able to apply a coupon deal and got them really low). No regrets and after 2 years they look the same as new!  

Trunk Bag: The package shelf is Yamaha and serves as the underpinning for a tall rectangular simu-leather bag fro J.C. Whitney - a lot of space and looks good, too. Recently upgraded to same bag but with 3 outside pockets and rivets, conchos. Went for hard / permanent install as follows:

-- Removed the backing plate that holds on the sissy pad
-- Drilled 4 holes through the plate:
   -- one on each side just below the two top stock holes
   -- one on each side just above the two bottom stock holes
   -- holes were over-sized enough to to let most of the tapered
     head of a machine screw pass through the plate
-- Inserted machine screws through the holes from the pad side
-- Secured all with lock nuts and flat nuts - tight
-- Reinstalled the back plate and pad
-- Opened up the Velcro strap and positioned the bag
-- Opened the top of the bag and applied force from inside
    the bag onto the bolt ends, marking the bolt locations on the bag
-- Selected the right size drill to barely let the bolts fit through
-- Drilled my 4 holes from the outside of the bag
-- Forced the bag over the bolts through the drilled holes
-- Used a large washer, and a small washer (to use up some bolt length
   - so bolt won't protrude through the nut inside the bag) and finally a
   Nylox nut to lock it all down
-- Used black zip-ties to fasten the other end of the bag to the package shelf

PS -- may go back later and add either some of the aluminum strap or an aluminum square plate to fit over the 4 bolts and spread the tension - not sure yet - right now large washers and 4 bolts seems to be enough.

PGR Flag Mounts: I made a 2 flag rig that fastens to the back of the sissy bar, between it and my soft bag. Used 2 pieces of flat bar steel that are u-bolted to the sissy bar. They have 2 capped 1 1/2 in x 14 inch PVC pipes (painted black) u-bolted to them - and the pipes sit outboard of the sissy bar pad and their leading/front edge is just even with the front of the sissy bar pad - so my honey can ride and I can still fly 2 flags at the same time.

This worked for me because I already had drilled holes through the sissy pad hold-on chrome piece and had bolts coming out of that backwards on the bike and through my soft truck - so it could be permanently installed - no huge Velcro strap, etc. I just drilled the upper steel bar holes to slip over those bolts and used 2 sets of nuts - one at the bar and another inside the soft trunk.

Yamaha "Crash" Bars & Kuryakyn Off-Set Pegs:  Needed  place to stretch out my long legs (6'5") and wanted to provide some "crash" protection.  Wanted small  bars (know 2 riders who  were pulled down by their wide bars in "tight turn required" situations). Opted for the stock bars from Mammy Yammy - looked just right.  Kuryakyn Offset pegs were needed due to my long legs and their good looks.  Love them! Have them positioned as far away from me as possible, and can ride with my foot on the pegs or, if I scootch forward on my keister just a little, with the back of my Achilles heel on top of them. Real comfortable for long rides - lots'a position options.

Pro-1 Pull Back Risers:  More sweet relief - gets the bars up and back to make me oh, so comfortable! When I installed the risers, the cables barely reached, and I had to set the bars a little high to make them reach.  Later on, I dropped the bars down a little, and had to change to longer upper front brake line and also had to "modify" the black "lollipop" clutch cable guide on the engine (got enough reach by bending the guide toward the engine and slightly to the rear).  Later: replaced the solid, "bridge both risers", cap with separate caps (for Harley) for each riser, allowing me to move the Tach between the risers.

Long Shaft Kuryakyn Large Oval Mirrors: To let me see around my "wide body" - picked convex for left side for wide vision there, and flat with convex bubble mirror on the right - so I can see the offset rider and properly judge distance, but also have the wide angle view from the spot.

Vista Cruise Throttle Lock and a Throttle Rocker Grip Relaxer - Oh, what sweet relief from the over-busy right hand and arm!

Gerbling Heated Gloves, Jacket & Pants Liners & Bike Wiring:  Tried the Gloves last Cold Time, will try the liners next Cold Time!  Plan on watching the electricity drain and will selectively turn off my extra lights when running at low rpm to ensure I don't overload the bike's ability to make "juice"  Looking forward to installing the promised nee high-output stator - promised for ?Sept?.


Bling, and More Bling:  

Tim B.- Metric Magic - Polish Exchange - All the Bar Controls - Fantastic!!

All Tins Powder Coated - Wet Black with Clear Coat Gloss Overcoat

Baron's Profiler Gas Cap - replaced stock which feel apart into the tank - not able to repair.

Kuryakyn Chrome Front Floorboard covers

      ($80 vs. Mamma Yamaha's $260 - Nicer Looking , Too)

Chrome Eagle-Head Air Cleaner Cover; 

Chrome Eagle-Head Front Brake Reservoir Cover; 

Chrome Oil Fill Plug; 

Chrome Rear Brake Reservoir Cover; 

Chrome Tail Light Assembly Cover:

Silver Gremlin Bells (wife gave me silver biker gremlin bells - she must love me); 

Chrome Front Caliper Covers;

Kuryakyn Chrome License Plate Frame & Backer; 

Chrome & Black Clock and Temperature Gauges mounted on the windshield bolts 

Yamaha Mini Tank Bra; 

Kuryakyn ISO grips with Kewl-Metal Chrome Bar-end Helmet Locks.


Removed: Custom Tank Decal (Automotive Vinyl) -  Gorilla Silhouette and "Silverback" Lettering. (When Powder Caoted)

Removed: Riser Bar Leather Mini Bag; 



Other Ideas Churning Around

-- Install Barnet 64 pound clutch and new frictions and metals. Have in hand, wait for resolution to the Higher Output Alternator-Rectifier "Problem{ (open the  right side only once!)

-- Install the Higher Output Alternator-Rectifier (in hand) once they work out the rectifier overheating problem.

-- Install MaxAir Predator Pro needles and rejet as needed.  Have in hand, but bike is running good and weather is fine - so riding as opposed to wrenching. Also, will reset carb floats at the same time!

-- 64 Pound Clutch Springs and new set of frictions & steels - extra power and my weight = clutch slip in 5th gear at lowe rpms ranges.

-- Will be ding the Daddo MC Trailer build - based on the Harbor Freight folding 1125# load trailer. Then will unload the monster trailer I have now.

-- Have been looking at the 3" foot board forward relocation kits, but they interfere with the Yammy bars.  Found where I guy made a change to his stock bars and how they attach - and thus was able to relocate his boards forward.  Have the board relocators, will be installing soon.



Tools & Techniques:

Bike Cleaning: I use a low powered power washer to carefully wet down the bike and clean the bulk of the junk off (taking care to avoid delicate & electrical areas). then I spritz on a light spray of Hondabrite (made by S100) and let it sit to loosen the dirt and road film (but not too long as it dries fast and you don't want that). Then I go over the bike with the power washer, removing the grime, etc.  Then I break out my electric leaf blower and blow the machine dry (does a nice job and fast, too!). I then take a clean micro-fiber cloth (12" square from Wally World) and wipe down all the surfaces - to get that last little bit off and adds a hell of a shine to the chrome.  Sometimes an especially dirty spot takes a second shot of the HondaBrite, but in most cases a little extra spray with the washer on the first pass gets the job done.  Usually, I can go through my whole routine in less than an hour - often 45 minutes!

Two hard things to clean: Spokes and Hubs (inside the spokes) -- I find that the approach above works very well in improving both.  I had been very, very careful to never touch any of the hub surfaces at all - better an evenly dirty hub (is it dirty or just uniformly grey?) than one smudged so that it is obvious it is dirty.  I like what I saw with the first 2 uses of my procedure above.  I will take a few hours and see if the technique - focused directly on getting the entire hub and all the spokes spotless  - will return them to like-new condition.  I need to get the bike on the lift outside on the drive, so I can spin the wheels to get at all sides, and all nooks and crannies. Also, lambs wool paint-ball barrel cleaners work really well at getting all the crannies between the spokes - any paint-ball store has them.

Note: HondaBrite goes for about $12 a quart, so go sparingly.  Also: I have recently been talking to the detailers and cleanup guys at dealerships, and they like Liquid Performance Street Bike Wash better than the Hondabrite - and it's only  $10/quart. will try that when I run out of f the other.

In between those cleanups, I use cotton terry squares and aerosol Spray Cleaner & Polish (either ProHonda or MotorcysleStuff) -- to get the bugs off the shield and the rest of the front side and mirrors. Use another terry rag to wipe it down, and then go over it all with a Wally World micro-fiber cloth -  really makes the chrome shine!

I spent about 3 hours the other day with the aerosol cleaner, rags, tooth brushes, paint stirrers (thin and flat and rigid) -- and totally cleaned (for the first time in 50,000 miles) all the cooling fins on the cylinders - came out looking real nice - except for the pebble dings on the front cylinder). My spray, spritz, spray and blow technique looks like it is keeping them looking real good - so that 3 hour chore may have been a one time only job. (only wish I had tried the spray, spritz, spray, blow-dry approach on the fin grime first - might have saved all that effort.)

Polishing and Maintaining polished surfaces:   After getting all my upper bars pieces polished, I have been using 2 products that work fine for me - I put on about 20,000 miles/year in 12 months of riding - and I use this stuff once a year - to bring back the polish and seal it for a year - parts he polished look just like he sent them to me - 4 years ago (plus a little).

Master Formula: Metal Gloss (Polishes aluminum. chrome, brass, stainless steel, more)
Master Formula: Sealer Gloss (Protective Sealer for paint, aluminum, chrome, brass, stainless steel, more)

Hiding Wires - Without Drilling:   I hate to drill holes and snake wires! 

When I run wires near chrome (like to wire the silver bullets mounted on my crash bar) I tape the wires to the underside of the chrome (out of sight!) using real aluminum metal DUCT tape (not duck tape). works like a charm and sticks like the dickens - very hard to see.

When running wires in other places, I opt for a black covering - I use black duck tape - can make long smooth runs of wire by wrapping length-wise down the long dimension of the duct tape - and it's a smooth finish that looks better than a spiral wrap of electrical tape.

When running wires in the front of the bike - electronics stuff on the bars, etc - I use a spiral wire wrap from Radio Shack, and wrap the wires onto or together with existing wiring or cable or hoses.  If wrapped tightly, it is hard to see what is factory and what is added.  I also used this technique to wrap the SS brake hose I added for length - I left the rest of the top end hoses black (STOCK look, remember) and that is how I hid the ugly (to me) SS hose.

Bike Lift:

I got a red one from Sam's club for $80, and followed the steps of someone on the V-Star 1100 Riders Forum to add some wood blocking to handle the varying frame "bulges" under the lift balance point on the bike.  Also marked on the jack exactly where to place the jack relative to the frame - so I can just slip it in and jack her up. Works like a charm - up 16 inches off the floor just right for my bucket perch or the roll around seat I have on my Xmas wish list.

Carb Synch Equipment:

I made the home-made manometer, inserted my old jets into the hose ends as flow restrictors, and that tools works fine!  I also cut a 2 inch piece off a rubber hose with an ID the same size as the MaxAir MaxMix screws - which make it easy to slip on over the screws for adjusting the PMS settings, especially with my big mitts.

Pipe "Rounder":

If you run into a problem of getting the end of your exhaust pipes out-of-round due to low clearance (so its impossible to remove or install baffles), there is an exhaust pipe expander available for a few bucks at your local auto parts place - works wonders!




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