My Ride
Modifications




INDEX OF
MODS: (Click to go there)
Modification Area
(Click for
Details) |
Brief Summary |
Headlight
|
Kuryakyn/Adjure Diamond Cut Ice
Halogen Headlight Assembly and Bulb, and Kisan Modulator |
Front
Lights
|
Kuryakyn Halogen
Silver Bullets (Small) - 2 sets - on crash & light bar
Emergency Flashers - Amber |
Rear
Lights
|
Kisan Modulator, 2
sets of red LED Kuryakyn Silver Bullets
Emergency Flashers - Red |
Horns
|
Rivco Electric
Blasters, with relay |
Communications |
Control unit with
headsets, intercom, bike-2-bike, MP3, cell, radar, GPS
interfaces |
Go Power
|
MaxAir PODS, Cobra 2-1
pipes, and more |
Bling-Bling
|
See the list - click
the link |
Other Functional
|
Passenger Boards,
Power Connections, Alarm, Rear Spring, Lowering Kit,
Tach, clock & Temp Gauges, GPS, ORK, Windshield, Lowers,
Crash bars & Pegs, Risers, Mirrors, Throttle Lock,
Heated Gear |
Tools &
Techniques |
Cleaning, lift,
wiring, synch tool, |
Still to Come
|
Clutch, Alternator,
Pro Needles, Bigger ORK lines, "Daddo" trailer, board
relocate |
|
|
Headlight Replacement:
(Seeing is everything!)
Kuryakyn/Adjure Diamond Cut Ice
Halogen Headlight Assembly and Bulb: Installed into
stock Yamaha Headlight shell (direct fit, piece of cake!). I
am blown away by the difference this $70 and 1 hour change
has made. The light blazes out as far as any modern
car headlight on high beam, and has a flat topped wide and
deep pattern on low beam (BTW, low beam is as good as the
stock setup HIGH beam with bright white halogen bulb added!).
I have aimed the light a tad high to get
maximum reach. Aiming: Backed bike into garage so face of
headlight lens was 10' from closed garage door; put mark on
door exactly same height from floor as center of headlight
bulb WHILE I WAS ON BIKE and another 2' lower (recommended
target) - both exactly lined up with the long axis of the
bike. I then focused the high beam exactly on the higher mark,
centered side to side, and the low beam was exactly where it
should be, too. Thanks to ISRA for this link:
http://www.star-riders.org/starcruiser/volume4-1/headlight.html
on how to do it.
Instructions,
for the unadventurous:
-- remove
windshield, if in the way
-- remove two lower screws from
the bucket -- remove the lens assembly from the
bucket (pull on bottom, unhook on top) -- unplug the
electrical from the back of the bulb (wiggle it
off)-- NOTE: measure the amount of threads sticking
thru each of the 2 aiming adjustment assemblies on
the bulb assembly (screws in springs thru bracket) -
will need to put them back to same when done --
unscrew the 2 aimers all the way out -- carefully
remove the clip spring that holds the 3rd side of
the bulb in place (grip one leg with needle-nose
pliers and carefully rotate off to the side and pull
out) -- unscrew 3 screws holding the old bulb in the
frame
-- clean up all the parts so it
will look pretty when done
-- put the new assembly into
the frame and redo the 3 screws -- set that assembly
into the outer ring and replace the spring clip
(slip one wing in place, position the hold-down
portion over the tang on the bulb assembly, gently
push the other wing into place) -- attach the 2
aimers (screw inside the spring end into the nylon
nut), and screw back to the same measures recorded
above -- plug into bike electrical connection --
hang the assembly on the 2 "shelves" in/on the top
of the bucket - push the assembly into the bottom of
the bucket -- align the two lower holes -- screw in
the screws, replace shield if removed
Helpful: right angle screw
driver or flex shaft screw driver to work with the
two lower headlight screws
To aim: need 20 feet of level
surface in front of a flat vertical wall and a buddy
to help -- sit on bike, have buddy do all the work:
measure from ground to center of headlight lens --
mark that height on the vertical surface and mark
spot 2 inches lower (aiming spot) -- now line up
bike perpendicular to the mark on the wall with
headlight 10 feet from the wall -- turn off the
lights (or sun) -- turn on the headlight high beam -
use the two lower (aiming) screws to set right-left
and up-down so the center spot of the light is on
the 2 inch lower mark - or on the upper mark or
anywhere in between to satisfy your need for light
projection -- do it all by setting high beam only
(low just follows along)
Note: I did this inside my
garage, backed the bike in and put the marks on the
inside of the garage door, as well as a mark on the
floor for bike positioning - so I can redo/refine as
needed --- AND I aimed at the higher mark - shines
flat out as far as one can see on a dead flat road!
Lack ah said, the fit is drop
in, but there is a spot of work to be done - fits
nice, looks nice, works nice!!
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Back |
Rear Lighting:
(Visibility Is The Name Of The Game!!)
Click for Picture
I have a $-step set of
changes to make the rear more noticeable:
A. I installed the Kisan
Brake Light Modulator - replaces the std tail bulb - flashes
fast, then gradually slows down to sold on - very effective.
Good price at: http://www.hellrisercustoms.com
B. Then I installed a pair of
Kuryakyn Small LED Silver Bullets, wired into the brake
circuit and light ground wires, and mounted with Kuryakyn
7/8in - 1in P-clamps onto the running light
"moustache", just inboard of the running lights -
mounted the clamp with the base of the P up and pointed
toward the front of the bike - which places the lens of the
Silver Bullet about even with the lens of the running light.
Because the original brake lights are in place, no need to
mess with LED compensator and the like. Ran wires to light
junction box behind the plate, running them behind/below
the "pipe" and used real aluminum duct tape
to hide and hold.
Good price at: http://www.hellrisercustoms.com
C. Most recently, I installed
a pair of Kuryakyn Small LED Silver Bullets, wired into the
running light circuit and light ground wires, and mounted
with a pair of JC Whitney Chrome 7/8in - 1/2in Clamps (bulky
but good looking and the only 1/2in clamps I could locate).
These are mounted to the outer bars of the Yamaha Package
Shelf. Wires are black-electrical-tape-wrapped (make
them less visible) and routed directly over the top of the
shelf and under my tall back bag, then under the center of
the back of the shelf and into the same junction box
- multiple layers of plastic electrical tape makes wire
bundle stiff enough to be formed and hold its shape - so I
left extra length to enable me to fold it forward under the
shelf and then back to the rear and down.
Why the Silver Bullets?
Sleek and not to obtrusive, but very, very bright. I am trying
to preserve the basic look of the 1000 Classic - so have
been using these Kuryakyn goodies from the "git go".
Have them in 2 places up front for driving / "see
me" lights (see next item) and now two places / uses here in the rear.
D. Just added a custom
made Emergency Flasher system to front and back of the bike.
The system is controlled by a remote that lets me have
off/on and 4 different flash speeds. Mounted a pair of
6-LED red clusters on the back of my trunk bag (since moved
to a pair of L-brackets out of aluminum screwed on by the
rear reflectors), and amber
ones on the fork down tubes in the front of the bike.
Chose a remote because it gave me always on or 4 variable flash speeds and the
ability to mount the remote anywhere on the bike - and gave
me the ability to activate the flashers when away from the
bike. Got all my parts here:
http://www.customdynamics.com/courtesy_lights.htm for
total of about $115 (for front, back, control). Bright as hell!
You see me quite well -
coming and going.
Back |
Front
Lighting:
(Visibility Is
The Name Of The Game!!)
Click for Picture
I have a 3-step set of changes to make
the bike more noticeable from the front:
A. Mounted one pair of Kuryakyn Large
Halogen Silver Bullets with 35W Spot bulbs and Clear lenses (were amber in pics
of bike) to the stock front
running/turn light bar - just inboard of the stock signals.
The wires are run behind the bar and then into the headlight
bucket through its bottom hole, and wired via a relay with
the High beam circuit as the relay "trigger". The
power for the relay was run up from a heavy fused line
from the battery, and the ground is to a frame bolt near the
original horn location.
B. Also, mounted one pair of Kuryakyn
Large Halogen Silver Bullets with 35W Spot bulbs and Clear lenses on the Yamaha
"crash" bar - just above the Kuryakyn pegs mounted
on the bars.. The wires are run out of sight under the bars,
held in place with real aluminum duct tape. At the
upper end of the bar, the wire is run behind the black
plastic neck piece, up to the headlight and into the headlight
bucket through its bottom hole and wired via a relay with
the Low beam circuit as the relay "trigger". The
power for the relay was run up from a heavy fused line
from the battery, and the ground is to a frame bolt near the
original horn location.
With both sets being wired in the
headlight bucket, I can switch the trigger circuit between
high/low as I wish. Currently running the upper, clear
lights with the high beam (recently changed out Amber lenses
for Clear) , but might switch the trigger set so the upper clear
lights will be on with the low beams - so I can aim them
high and straight for added light when low beams are on, and
the lower lights will be on for more "size" when the high
beams are on).
Note: The P-clamps are slightly larger
than the front marker bar. I folded heavy duty kitchen
aluminum foil until I had the right thickness, and just as
wide as the width of the P-clamp groove. Then cut a strip
long enough to fit under the entire P-clamp around the bar,
tightened the clamp down and the chrome, aluminum, chrome
"sandwich" made a good ground. As of 11/07 has been on five
years - no problems.
Why the Silver Bullets? Sleek and
not to obtrusive, but very bright. I am trying to
preserve the basic look of the 1000 Classic - so have been
using these Kuryakyn goodies from the "git go". (See
above item for rear light treatment)
C. Just added a custom made Emergency
Flasher system to front and back of the bike. The
system is controlled by a remote that lets me have off/on
and 4 different flash speeds. Mounted a pair of 6-LED
red clusters on the back of my trunk bag (since moved to a
pair of L-brackets out of aluminum screwed on by the rear
reflectors), and amber ones on
the fork down tubes in the front of the bike. Chose a
remote because it gave me always on or 4 variable flash
speeds and the ability to mount the remote anywhere on the
bike - and gave me the
ability to activate the flashers when away from the bike.
Got all my parts here:
http://www.customdynamics.com/courtesy_lights.htm for
total of about $115 (for front, back, control). Bright as hell!
Back |
Horns:
Click for Picture
Set (pair) of Rivco Electric Sound Blaster
horns - chrome on the outer half and medium grey on the inner
(next to the bike body) - louder than most air horns, very raucous,
and very, very noticeable.
One horn is mounted on each side,
attached to one of the upper bolts for the Yamaha
"crash" bars. Horns are mounted with trumpets
facing forward and slightly down to drain out any splash.
They are out of the main air flow, because they are behind
the chrome lowers, but are not at all muffled by that
location. Mounted to Yamaha bar upper front bolts - check
clearance before finalizing mounts - left side horn is swung
down below the bar and the right side above the bar (wanted
both up, but had clearance problem on the left side relative
to clutch cable/bracket). Also, must use Rivco's very
flexible "brackets" - if you use stiffer ones you'll lose
1/2 your volume (fellow rider tried and did!).
Put relay where the stock horns were
mounted:
-- For the power side of the relay, ran a fused hot wire
from the battery, up under the tank, along the upper frame
and down to the original horn location.
--I made a ground wire by putting a round terminal end on a
wire and attaching it to the frame with the original horn
mounting bolt.
-- For the relay trigger wires, I used the original horn
wires with their existing connectors (seems like I remember
breaking them apart)
-- I made up two sets of "driven" wires - one set going to
each new horn on its own side of the bike - each set was a
ground and a power wire with a connector on the horn end of
each. The two ground wires were joined together near the
relay and then joined to the frame ground (above). The two
power wires were joined together near the relay and a
connector added to the common end.
-- Connected the hot wire from the battery to the relay
power connector, the combined grounds to the relay ground
connector, and the original horn wires to the trigger
connectors of the relay.
-- Wrapped it all up like a cocoon with black electricians
tape, then over-wrapped it all with black duck/duct tape,
and used a black zip tie to attach the bundle to the frame
where the original horns were placed - out of sight, etc,
etc
Back |
"Go Power":
Installed the MaxAir
Engineering Predator dual pod air filter replacement kit
with jetting changes
and MaxMix PMS Screws.
I have installed Cobra 2 Into 1
pipes - absolutely love the sound with stock baffles -
as shipped. Can feel added power as measured by seat
of the pants Dyno.
These two MODs - ROCK! Big, big increase
in power! In the mid to upper end of the rpm range. I
can best describe the bike, as modified: From Idle to
3000 rpm - "buff" Clark Kent with all the torque and power we
know and love in the bike. From 3000 to 6250 rpm
(limiter) it is Super Bike. Screams from a stop to 70
faster than a speeding bullet. Creams most Harleys who
try to run against me. Just perfect! Until I get the
urge to put in cams, or something like that. Ouch - that was
me getting swatted by the book-keeper. (;-))
"Gorilla's" Performance Profile -
Settings:
AIS:
Removed Completely - Ports Plugged with Bolts
CALIF.
Bike: No
MODs:
MaxAir Predator (Pro Needles not yet installed)
ELEVATION: 521
PIPES:
Cobra 2 Into 1 Exhaust
BAFFLES? Stock - Un-drilled, still wrapped
MAIN SIZE: Front: 150 Rear 150
PILOT SIZE: Front: 22.5 Rear: 22.5
PMS:
MaxMix - 1 turn out (both F & R) - Still tuning
NEEDLES: Front: Stock-2 thin shims
Rear: Stock-2 thin shims
FLOATS: Stock
Settings (not adjusted)
OTHER:
NA
I will be leaving the stock air cleaner
assembly in place cosmetically, in keeping with my goal of
preserving as much as possible the stock appearance of the
bike. (And I like the multiple circles on the right side.)
Have routed the permanently installed hoses for carburetor
synchronization out the former air intake into the cosmetic
air cleaner - for ready access without tank removal. I also
have installed a cig lighter power socket in the empty bowl
base.
I had originally "plugged" the AIS,
when I did the "do it yourself" air mod and added Slip-on
pipes. I have since removed all parts of the AIS "system"
.
Exhaust Options Replaced: Samson Shogun
Warlord Long
Cannons Pipes (Loved them and they are loud!) they ship
w/o baffles as straight, drag pipes. These pipes mount low
on the bike and are very long - so long I was dragging the
ends occasionally on exiting some businesses. I added billet
chrome end pieces - made them longer, look better and
preserved the roundness - so I can more easily change out
baffles. (Also did progressive rear spring install for more
height).
I have Big City Thunder "minimal"
baffles, and aftermarket Torque Cones (not tried yet -
pain to redo pipe install), as well as Samson
2" baffles (loud) and also 1.5' baffles (quieter) and have
made one of the Thumbscrew "lollipop back pressure" devices
(http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/exhaust.htm) -- to test for
best sound and performance / power delivery among the 5 options
--- recognizing that straight pipes would rob me of
5-10% of my "Gorilla's" power. Will report back here the
results of my seat of the pants performance evaluations.
Also plan on making multiple runs on the Dyno at Blue Ridge
Power Sports to see how power stacks up with the 5
alternatives - as soon as I stop spending $$ on "bling" and
put aside $50 for an hour of time.
05/05/05 Update - Big City Thunder
"baffles" too loud for my "sweetie" - running now with Samson
2' loud baffles and she doesn't mind the ride, and I like the
sound. So, when riding alone, its Big City thunder for
me. When riding with my sweetie, its the 2" Samson's - and
only 2 minutes to swap them over to Big city thunder! Note:
Really only ride with the 2" baffles - too much effort to pull
off the billet tips, swap baffles, reinstall the tips, etc,
etc.
Note: Big City Thunder "baffle" - looks
like the lollipop back pressure device, mounted in 3"
short,1.5" to 1.75" diameter plain pipe - the backpressure
comes from the lollipop and the minor pinch in of the
restriction. Might want to save yourself $80 and make the DIY
lollipop back pressure device.
OLD "Gorilla's" Performance Profile -
Settings:
AIS:
Unhooked- Plugged
CALIF.
Bike: No
MODs:
MaxAir Predator
ELEVATION: 521
PIPES:
Samson Shogun Warlord Long Cannons
BAFFLES? Samson 2" Minimal Baffles (see below)
MAIN SIZE: Front: 145 Rear 145
PILOT SIZE: Front: 22.5 Rear: 22.5
PMS:
MaxMix - 1 turn out (both F & R) - Still tuning
NEEDLES: Front: Stock-2 thin shims
Rear: Stock-2 thin shims
OTHER:
Have tired: Lollipop Back Pressure Device, Big City Thunder,
Samson 2" and 1.5' baffles
Power Options Replaced:
"Tony Anzalone"
custom, do-it-yourself, Hy-Flow Factory Air Cleaner modification. Replaced the
approximately 1.5 inch diameter stock air inlet hole on the
back of a stock air filter assembly with 3 holes - increasing intake area from about
3 sq-in
to over 14 sq-in. Cut away the center of a K&N air
filter, giving it even more air flow area. This feeds
out of the air filter box to the upper air box through the
stock air passage. (See
it here).
Rejetting: Following Tony's original
article, I had the bike rejetted based on my Cobra Slash cut
Slip-ons - 115 Front cylinder and
112.5 Rear cylinder. Subsequently while running on DYNO
for dynamic tuning (rich / lean testing vs. torque/HP) my
lead mechanic indicated the bike was over rich so we back
down one "stop" on each cylinder to 112.5 Front
and 110 Rear. Seemeds to be fine based on running and
plug check after 25,000 miles at those settings.
These changes coupled with the Cobra
Slip-On Slash Cut Exhaust and rejetting, resulted
in a DYNO measured increase in HP from 46 (stock) to 61 (modified)
as measured at Blue Ridge Motor Sports, Harrisonburg, VA -
my favorite mechanics.
Back |
Communications:
Capabilities: Of the Communications Center
Unit Itself
Rider-Passenger Intercom,
Helmet headsets (2), each with: 2 earpieces, 2 mikes
(1 stick-on for full-face, 1 on boom for open face: 3/4,
1/2, shorty)
CB Interface with Push-to-talk for Rider &
Passenger (CB is separate purchase),
MP3 Player Interface - Monaural - over-ridden by CB in/out,
(Player is separate purchase)
Radar Detector interface (beeps in one ear)
(Radar detector is separate purchase)
Cell Phone Interface (rings in your other ear)
(Cell phone is separate purchase)
Built in FM receiver - works! - overridden by CB in/out
Powered via 2 AA batteries (wish it had power inlet)
3 Mike Sensitivity settings
All the cables you need to connect everything
Multiple helmet mounting options / "thingies"
3" x 3.5" x 3/4' box - not water tight
Equipment:
Communications Center Unit --
ALL of the Capabilities Listed Above Are INCLUDED!!!!
MotoComm AudioBoss AB-1m
[ Click
for detailed Diagram ] [ Click for Specs ]
[ Click for Picture
]
Purchased from: California Sport Touring, Inc. [
www.casporttouring.com ]
Price, shipped: $160
CB Hand-Held Radio:
Tested with both:
Midland 75-785 - 40 channel - powered via 9AA
batteries or included car adapter (my option)
Maxon HBC-10C - 40 channel - powered via 9AA batteries
or included car adapter (my option)
Price: approx $88, shipped for either one
MP3 Player - Old Pocket PC I had from before
switching to Treo 600/650 Phone/MP3/Planner/Everything
Cell Phone - Treo 650 - Verizon Wireless
Mounting:
Communications Center - New location - inside the left
rear hard bag - out of the weather and for easy access to
turn on/off, change batteries, stowage of the rider and
passenger headset cords when not in use.
CB Radio: mounted to
150-000 Chrome Cell Phone Caddy from
J&P Cycles -
just to the left of the risers
(stowed in
left hard bag when not in use)
MP3 Player: mounted on
150-000 Chrome Cell Phone Caddy from
J&P Cycles -
(stowed in
left hard bag when not in use)
Cell Phone: Carried in hip holster pocket for now -
safer!!
Summary: Basic Intercom and CB - $295 ($160
+ $88 + $47)
Add $96 for 2 more mounts Plus existing MP3 & Cell
Installation:
Units: mounted on bars -- as noted above
Power for CB, MP3 Player: In the old AIS hole,
installed a relay driven by the headlight circuit (only on
with ignition) and driving a "buss" to control several
units. Attached to the "buss" is a cig-lighter adapter
and splitter - to allow installation of the two cig lighter
plug that provide connection and voltage change functions
for the MP3 and CB. Wires are then then routed along the frame
under the tank and out the top of the tank opening and then
along the underside of the bars to each unit - cables were
all wrapped in Radio Shack black coiled wire wrap for
neatness, containment. Included in the bundle is the Tach
wire - so have one neat cable to the bar.
Communication
Center is mounted in left rear hard bag. I have the box (small: 4x4x1 inches)
and spare wiring (extra PTT and cell phone and radar wires)
a small container, wires running out the bottom to the various
devices: CB, MP3 player, Cell phone (to be aware of calls
for later handling), to my left grip for push-to-talk, to
the back for the passenger headset and PTT, and the short
cord to attach to my helmet cord is kept in the top of the
bag - out of sight when not in use and handy to hook up when
needed. The cables exit the back mostly out of sight as they
run slightly forward and under the seat to their final
destinations. All are wrapped together in black duct
tape for maximum "hiding".
Critique:
IT WORKS!!!! Fine!!! All the
functionality is there (don't use the FM-radio, have MP3,
but FM also works)
Now that the unit is in the rear left bag - things are
much, much better and much better looking!
Back
|
Other
Functional Changes:
Barons Offset Passenger Boards: Originally
mounted in place of the passenger pegs in the stock location
for the pegs. Since have relocated the boards downward
by 2.5 inches, forward by 2.5 inches and out from the bike by
1.0 inch - making my dearly beloved wife much, much happier.
Drilled new holes for the board brackets into the boomerang
and secured them with spare chrome bolts that came with the the
boards (to allow Roadie install I think), securing them with
lock washers, nuts and Locktite.
Added Power Connections:
A. In the old AIS hole, installed a relay driven by the
headlight circuit (only on with ignition) and driving a "buss"
to control several units. used to provide power for MP3 player
and CB radio.
B. Ran direct for battery a fused circuit to a cig lighter
power socket - mounted on the rear ward side of the empty dog
bowl base - used to power cell phone on long trips -
where place to recharge is needed.
C. Direct wired plug to connect electric garments: gloves,
pants, jacket. Comes out under the left front side of the
front seat - for easy attaching to the "suit:. When not in
use, the cord is back folded several times, Velcro strapped
and tucked up under the seat side skirt.
D. Direct wired the alarm, below.
GORILLA Alarm: Installed in the AIS "hole" with antenna
wire under the front seat, and the warning LED installed
through the tool box cover just in front of the lock.
Meltzer ME880 Marathons Tires:
On the advice of a Roadie rider, I made the switch once my
stock Dunlop's wore out (too darn soon). Love the Meltzer's
- better ride, more aggressive in corners, much, much better
tread life - just changed out the rear with almost 20,000
miles - now that'd tread life! Currently inflated: 39
Front; 40 Rear.
Progressive Rear Spring:
Replaced stock spring with PCS 825 to 1200 pound progressive
spring, kept OEM shock. Much better ride for me (350#)
and me + passenger. Have adjustment set to hardest preload
(7). Rides like a dream.
Cycle Foray Lowering Kit:
Currently set at "stock" height - installed when I did the
spring - just to be ready to try it out.
Barons 3" Tachometer - White,
Lighted Dial, Bar Mounted: Mounted between my
Pro-1 risers (originally was just to the
left of my risers), tilted up aimed directly at my
face. Sweet looking, and functional. Note: to install,
removed tank and left front plastic fork cover, slightly
modified the provided piggyback clamps from Baron's (filed
edge down on the male tab), plugged it in on the coil as
instructed, reassembled - done in about an hour.
Clock & Temperature Gauges
(Formotion): Mounted on the inside of the
windshield - to the bolts which hold the plexi-glass to the
chrome mounting strips
GPS - Palm Tom-Tom GPS Unit -
Tom-Tom Software in Palm Treo "Cell Phone" (cell phone,
PDA, MP3 player, camera, "everything device"). Mounted on
RAM Universal PDA Cradle (# RAM-HOL-PD3U) with c-clamp mount
to Bars - RAM Mount Aluminum Yoke Clamp with Standard Arm &
Diamond Plate Assembly (# RAM-B-121-238U). Currently power
is via GPS provided cig-lighter adapter with power cords for
both Treo and GPS unit - Plugged into right side air cleaner
mounted cig-lighter socket - cables are Velcro spot mounted
to bottom of tank (just outside frame) so power cords can
also be used with car - until get second set. Mount
Pix: http://www.gpscity.com/ram%20mount/RAM-B-121-238U/ramb121-238/large_graphic.htm
Jardine Oil Filter Relocator:
put on this beauty to get rid of the %^$#@ hassle of oil changing.
Slam bam. thank you ma'am - 5 minute oil changes! I run this
with K&N chrome oil filters, and only use the beautiful chrome
oil filter cover for showy occasions. It gets mighty yucky
down there with the miles I ride on good ole Virginny roads,
so like the idea of quick cover for "beauty".
Baron's V-65 Oil Relocation Beauty
Cover: Love the way it restores the
"circles" look to what was a flat slab of
chrome. And the big V with superimposed 65 and Twin
tells it like it is -- 65 cu in V-twin now running 61 horses
on the way to a few more. (Functional is in the eye of
the beholder)
http://baronscustom.com/html/catalog/browse/yamaha/vstar1100classic/AC?category=AC&p=2&
Yamaha Tall Windshield & Chrome
Windshield Lowers: Have the shield up as high as
it will go and raked to be parallel with the tubes.
Was getting buffeted to heck-and-back at anything over 50
mph. The forums guided me to the stock chrome lowers
and man what a change. Have run the beast up to about
110 and no more buffeting - at any speed.
Mustang Cruising Seat Set:
BEST MONEY EVER SPENT. I am big guy - 400 poundish - and the
stock seat was killing me after about 45 minutes. Let myself
be guided by the "experts" on the forums and
several local riders, and opted for the Mustang seats - even
though they moved me forward a little (I'm 6'5") they
have been the BEST! I am now up to about 3 hours without
dismounting, no pain. And boy does my wife love her seat.
(Talk about getting some points!). Mounted stock Yamaha
Sissy Bar, pad, and rails.
LeatherLyke Cross Country (large) Hard
Bags & Mounts: One of our club riders, "Gear Master",
had the smaller version on his machine, and I like
everything about the one's I chose: leather like look, size,
lock ability, ease of mounting, ability to take them off and
have good looks still back there, and the price (I caught
them on sale at Cruiser Customizing and was able to apply a
coupon deal and got them really low). No regrets and after 2
years they look the same as new!
Trunk Bag: The package shelf is Yamaha and serves
as the underpinning for a tall rectangular simu-leather bag
fro J.C. Whitney - a lot of space and looks good, too.
Recently upgraded to same bag but with 3 outside pockets and
rivets, conchos. Went for hard / permanent install as
follows:
-- Removed the backing plate that holds on the sissy pad
-- Drilled 4 holes through the plate:
-- one on each side just below the two top stock holes
-- one on each side just above the two bottom stock holes
-- holes were over-sized enough to to let most of the tapered
head of a machine screw pass through the plate
-- Inserted machine screws through the holes from the pad
side
-- Secured all with lock nuts and flat nuts - tight
-- Reinstalled the back plate and pad
-- Opened up the Velcro strap and positioned the bag
-- Opened the top of the bag and applied force from inside
the bag onto the bolt ends, marking the bolt locations on the
bag
-- Selected the right size drill to barely let the bolts fit
through
-- Drilled my 4 holes from the outside of the bag
-- Forced the bag over the bolts through the drilled holes
-- Used a large washer, and a small washer (to use up some
bolt length
- so bolt won't protrude through the nut inside the bag) and
finally a
Nylox nut to lock it all down
-- Used black zip-ties to fasten the other end of the bag to
the package shelf
PS -- may go back later and add either some of the aluminum
strap or an aluminum square plate to fit over the 4 bolts
and spread the tension - not sure yet - right now large
washers and 4 bolts seems to be enough.
PGR Flag Mounts: I made a 2 flag rig that fastens
to the back of the sissy bar, between it and my soft bag.
Used 2 pieces of flat bar steel that are u-bolted to the
sissy bar. They have 2 capped 1 1/2 in x 14 inch PVC pipes
(painted black) u-bolted to them - and the pipes sit
outboard of the sissy bar pad and their leading/front edge
is just even with the front of the sissy bar pad - so my
honey can ride and I can still fly 2 flags at the same time.
This worked for me because I already had drilled holes
through the sissy pad hold-on chrome piece and had bolts
coming out of that backwards on the bike and through my soft
truck - so it could be permanently installed - no huge
Velcro strap, etc. I just drilled the upper steel bar holes
to slip over those bolts and used 2 sets of nuts - one at
the bar and another inside the soft trunk.
Yamaha "Crash" Bars &
Kuryakyn Off-Set Pegs: Needed place to stretch
out my long legs (6'5") and wanted to provide some
"crash" protection. Wanted small bars (know 2 riders who were pulled
down by their wide bars in "tight turn required"
situations). Opted for the stock bars from Mammy Yammy -
looked just right. Kuryakyn Offset pegs were needed
due to my long legs and their good looks. Love them!
Have them positioned as far away from me as possible, and
can ride with my foot on the pegs or, if I scootch forward
on my keister just a little, with the back of my Achilles heel on
top of them. Real comfortable for long rides - lots'a position
options.
Pro-1 Pull Back Risers:
More sweet relief - gets the bars up and back to make me oh,
so comfortable! When I installed the risers, the cables
barely reached, and I had to set the bars a little high to
make them reach. Later on, I dropped the bars down a
little, and had to change to longer upper front brake line
and also had to "modify" the black "lollipop" clutch cable
guide on the engine (got enough reach by bending the guide
toward the engine and slightly to the rear). Later:
replaced the solid, "bridge both risers", cap with separate
caps (for Harley) for each riser, allowing me to move the
Tach between the risers.
Long Shaft Kuryakyn Large Oval Mirrors:
To let me see around my "wide body" - picked
convex for left side for wide vision there, and flat with
convex bubble mirror on the right - so I can see the offset
rider and properly judge distance, but also have the wide
angle view from the spot.
Vista Cruise Throttle Lock and a
Throttle Rocker Grip Relaxer - Oh, what sweet relief
from the over-busy right hand and arm!
Gerbling Heated Gloves, Jacket &
Pants Liners & Bike
Wiring: Tried the Gloves last Cold Time, will try
the liners next Cold Time! Plan on watching the
electricity drain and will selectively turn off my extra
lights when running at low rpm to ensure I don't overload
the bike's ability to make "juice" Looking forward to
installing the promised nee high-output stator - promised
for ?Sept?.
Back
Bling, and More Bling:
Tim B.- Metric Magic - Polish Exchange - All the Bar
Controls - Fantastic!!
All Tins Powder Coated - Wet Black with Clear Coat Gloss
Overcoat
Baron's Profiler Gas Cap - replaced stock which feel apart
into the tank - not able to repair.
Kuryakyn
Chrome Front Floorboard covers
($80 vs. Mamma Yamaha's $260 - Nicer Looking , Too)
Chrome Eagle-Head
Air Cleaner Cover;
Chrome Eagle-Head
Front Brake Reservoir Cover;
Chrome Oil Fill Plug;
Chrome
Rear Brake Reservoir Cover;
Chrome Tail Light Assembly Cover:
Silver
Gremlin Bells (wife gave me silver
biker gremlin bells - she must love me);
Chrome Front Caliper Covers;
Kuryakyn
Chrome License Plate Frame & Backer;
Chrome & Black Clock and Temperature Gauges
mounted on the windshield bolts
Yamaha Mini Tank Bra;
Kuryakyn ISO grips with Kewl-Metal Chrome Bar-end
Helmet Locks.
Removed: Custom Tank Decal
(Automotive Vinyl) - Gorilla Silhouette and
"Silverback" Lettering. (When Powder Caoted)
Removed: Riser Bar Leather
Mini Bag;
Back
Other Ideas Churning Around:
-- Install Barnet 64 pound clutch and
new frictions and metals. Have in hand, wait for resolution
to the Higher Output Alternator-Rectifier "Problem{ (open
the right side only once!)
-- Install the Higher Output
Alternator-Rectifier (in hand) once they work out the
rectifier overheating problem.
-- Install MaxAir Predator Pro needles
and rejet as needed. Have in hand, but bike is running
good and weather is fine - so riding as opposed to wrenching.
Also, will reset carb floats at the same time!
-- 64 Pound Clutch Springs and new set
of frictions & steels - extra power and my weight = clutch
slip in 5th gear at lowe rpms ranges.
-- Will be ding the Daddo MC Trailer
build - based on the Harbor Freight folding 1125# load
trailer. Then will unload the monster trailer I have now.
-- Have been looking at the 3"
foot board forward relocation kits, but they interfere with
the Yammy bars. Found where I guy made a change
to his stock bars and how they attach - and thus was able to
relocate his boards forward. Have the board
relocators, will be installing soon.
Back |
Tools &
Techniques:
Bike Cleaning:
I use a low powered power washer to carefully wet down the
bike and clean the bulk of the junk off (taking care to avoid
delicate & electrical areas). then I spritz on a light spray
of Hondabrite (made by S100) and let it sit to loosen the dirt
and road film (but not too long as it dries fast and you don't
want that). Then I go over the bike with the power washer,
removing the grime, etc. Then I break out my electric
leaf blower and blow the machine dry (does a nice job and
fast, too!). I then take a clean micro-fiber cloth (12" square
from Wally World) and wipe down all the surfaces - to get that
last little bit off and adds a hell of a shine to the chrome. Sometimes an especially dirty spot
takes a second shot of the HondaBrite, but in most cases a
little extra spray with the washer on the first pass gets the
job done. Usually, I can go through my whole routine in
less than an hour - often 45 minutes!
Two hard things to clean:
Spokes and Hubs (inside the spokes) -- I find that the
approach above works very well in improving both. I had
been very, very careful to never touch any of the hub surfaces
at all - better an evenly dirty hub (is it dirty or just
uniformly grey?) than one smudged so that it is obvious it is
dirty. I like what I saw with the first 2 uses of my
procedure above. I will take a few hours and see if the
technique - focused directly on getting the entire hub and all
the spokes spotless - will return them to like-new
condition. I need to get the bike on the lift outside on
the drive, so I can spin the wheels to get at all sides, and
all nooks and crannies. Also, lambs wool paint-ball barrel
cleaners work really well at getting all the crannies
between the spokes - any paint-ball store has them.
Note: HondaBrite goes for
about $12 a quart, so go sparingly. Also: I have
recently been talking to the detailers and cleanup guys at
dealerships, and they like Liquid Performance Street Bike
Wash better than the Hondabrite - and it's only
$10/quart. will try that when I run out of f the other.
In between those cleanups, I
use cotton terry squares and aerosol Spray Cleaner & Polish
(either ProHonda or MotorcysleStuff) -- to get the bugs off
the shield and the rest of the front side and mirrors. Use
another terry rag to wipe it down, and then go over it all
with a Wally World micro-fiber cloth - really makes
the chrome shine!
I spent about 3 hours the
other day with the aerosol cleaner, rags, tooth brushes, paint
stirrers (thin and flat and rigid) -- and totally cleaned (for
the first time in 50,000 miles) all the cooling fins on the
cylinders - came out looking real nice - except for the pebble
dings on the front cylinder). My spray, spritz, spray and blow
technique looks like it is keeping them looking real good - so
that 3 hour chore may have been a one time only job. (only
wish I had tried the spray, spritz, spray, blow-dry approach
on the fin grime first - might have saved all that effort.)
Polishing and
Maintaining polished surfaces: After getting
all my upper bars pieces polished, I have been using 2
products that work fine for me - I put on about 20,000
miles/year in 12 months of riding - and I use this stuff
once a year - to bring back the polish and seal it for a
year - parts he polished look just like he sent them to me -
4 years ago (plus a little).
Master Formula: Metal Gloss (Polishes aluminum. chrome,
brass, stainless steel, more)
Master Formula: Sealer Gloss (Protective Sealer for paint,
aluminum, chrome, brass, stainless steel, more)
www.metalgloss.com
Hiding Wires - Without
Drilling:
I hate to drill holes and snake wires!
When I run wires near chrome
(like to wire the silver bullets mounted on my crash bar) I
tape the wires to the underside of the chrome (out of sight!)
using real aluminum metal DUCT tape (not duck tape). works
like a charm and sticks like the dickens - very hard to see.
When running wires in other
places, I opt for a black covering - I use black duck tape -
can make long smooth runs of wire by wrapping length-wise down
the long dimension of the duct tape - and it's a smooth finish
that looks better than a spiral wrap of electrical tape.
When running wires in the
front of the bike - electronics stuff on the bars, etc - I use
a spiral wire wrap from Radio Shack, and wrap the wires onto
or together with existing wiring or cable or hoses. If
wrapped tightly, it is hard to see what is factory and what is
added. I also used this technique to wrap the SS brake
hose I added for length - I left the rest of the top end hoses
black (STOCK look, remember) and that is how I hid the ugly
(to me) SS hose.
Bike Lift:
I got a red one from Sam's
club for $80, and followed the steps of someone on the V-Star
1100 Riders Forum to add some wood blocking to handle the
varying frame "bulges" under the lift balance point on the
bike. Also marked on the jack exactly where to place the
jack relative to the frame - so I can just slip it in and jack
her up. Works like a charm - up 16 inches off the floor just
right for my bucket perch or the roll around seat I have on my
Xmas wish list.
Carb Synch Equipment:
I made the home-made
manometer, inserted my old jets into the hose ends as flow
restrictors, and that tools works fine! I also cut a 2
inch piece off a rubber hose with an ID the same size as the
MaxAir MaxMix screws - which make it easy to slip on over the
screws for adjusting the PMS settings, especially with my big
mitts.
Pipe "Rounder":
If you run into a problem of
getting the end of your exhaust pipes out-of-round due to low
clearance (so its
impossible to remove or install baffles), there is an exhaust
pipe expander available for a few bucks at your local auto
parts place - works wonders!
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