Riding Hints & Tricks


To
all Readers / Users:
These
hints / tips / guidelines have been accumulated, edited, and prepared by me and are offered in
the spirit of the motorcycling fellowship -- for the use of any and all riders
- but all readers / users / riders need to recognize that they,
themselves, and only themselves can take the responsibility for
their safety and the safety of others around themselves.
You are advised to use your own judgment and experience to guide
your riding - as these guidelines cannot be held responsible for
your actions or lack of judgment - including the use of these
guidelines in a manner that might cause harm to you or those
around you.
All of these tips and
guidelines are offered in
the spirit of the motorcycling fellowship, but also "as is" meaning
this site and the contributor(s) cannot be held liable, etc, etc, etc.
Sincerely,
SilverBack
Email
Me Here
This page is devoted to
rider contributions
on the lore, skill and techniques developed over time for many facets of motorcycle
riding.
The collection will hopefully help all who use
it, and prevent riders from learning "the hard way" - when others may
have already done it that way.
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If you have a contribution to make:
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Categories - Click the
link below:

Skills Practice,
Enhancement
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Idaho
Motorcycle Skills Practice Guide
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Excellent Guide to
Skill Practice -- Practice is the only path to perfection (and safety!) |
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Suitable for all
levels, especially novice, intermediate (in need of Spring brush-up,
etc) |
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Includes selection of
practice area, things to practice |
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Good coaching hints,
suggestions |
|
 |
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General Tips
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Things to keep in your
"Kit"
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9-10 feet of Duck/Duct
Tape, folded into a flat 3 inch long package
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Can tape on a
fender, or any other part |
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Help strap on a
package |
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Tape your wet suit
to your boots |
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Etc |
|
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6 feet of machinists
wire, folded into a tight, 4 inch long bundle
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Hold on a plate |
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Help hold a
package |
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Etc |
|
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For every size
fastener - the right sized wrench, Allen wrench, screw driver, pliers,
etc
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You need to be
able to fix it or get fellow rider to fix it - and you "aint
gonna" without the tools |
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Remember:
Metric bikes are metric, but most US add-ons are SAE (not metric) |
|
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One contractor grade
35 galloon black trash bag
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Use it for
emergency rain gear (for you or your passenger) |
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Split it and use
for bike cover, or rider cover while waiting for the storm to blow
over |
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Split it and use
to wrap you up from the cold |
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Split it and use
for ground cover while you sit and work on the bike |
|
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Two bread bags - like
from Wonder Bread - slip over your foot gear to provide
 |
Caution - are slippery
so take care when walking (don't! walk!) or whenever your feet are
down |
|
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The SCRC member list -
phone numbers and list of who has trailers to help you out |
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Lip balm (NOT tube
type, but in a small tightly closeable tin/jar - it melts and runs in
the bag!) |
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SPF 45 Water-proof
sports / swimmer sun screen |
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First Aid Kit |
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Electrical box cover
(Square / Round) to use as Kick-Stand Support on soft ground |
|
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Maintenance
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Do
it per your manual - intervals and steps. |
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Don't
forget, when valves need adjusting, take the bike in the night before - has
to be done on cold buke! |
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Tires
- good rule is to use the tire manufacturer's maximum pressure for your tire
- might be just a little harsher ride, but much safer. |
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Tires
- check pressure, tread wear and "for damage" every day, every
ride - these guys are the key to your safety! |
 |
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Rain
riding
 | Don't
ride during the 1st 15 - 30 minutes of rain - the road is its slickest then
- due to the rain mixing with oil film and making "soap" for
you to slip on. |
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Ride
your own ride - don't get "dared" along. |
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Watch
that rear brake, wet road means it is more likely to put you into that skid
you cannot recover from.
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Remember,
if in a rear wheel skid, do not release the rear brake - or over the top
you will go into a bad crash. |
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Steer
out of the skid with the front wheels and when straightened up, then you
can release the rear brake. |
|
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Get
good rain gear - light, compact, breathable, light / bold color (visibility!)
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SilverBack
recommends Frogg Toggs |
|
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Night
riding
 |
Don't
over-ride your head lights. This means slow down! |
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Keep
your headlights adjusted to the high side of the recommended adjustment
range |
 | Run
the highest intensity bulb allowed for your bike - more light =
farther vision = safer riding |
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Ride
your own ride - don't get "dared" along. |
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Bring
layers, gets colder as the night wears on |
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Twisties
riding
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Don't
over-ride your ability. |
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Ride
your own ride - don't get "dared" along. |
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Uphill
is safer - gravity braking. |
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Downhill
braking is touchy! - especially on curves |
 | Use
front brakes only! Rear brake skids will "kill" you via "over the
top" / top-side accidents. |
 |
|
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Cold
Weather riding
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Dress
Warm - obviously |
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Cars
are
less
likely
to
"see"
you
in
cold
weather
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They
don't expect riders to be on the road. |
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Be aware of the ground hog rule.
(thanks, JW!)
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If
you can see your shadow in front of the bike, the sun is in the eyes of oncoming drivers, making
you invisible. |
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F |
|
|
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Ride
cautiously (slower!) - around that curve may be a black spot - sheer ice - a
real rider killer. |
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Don't
venture out until you are sure there is no black ice or snow in the shade
that will be hard for you to avoid.
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When
it doubt - "cage" it - 4 wheels are better than 2 in this
case!! |
|
 | Remember
- TIRES HAVE LESS GRIP WHEN COLD! - give them time to really warm up. |
 | Stop Often.
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You can't afford to let yourself get even a little cold. |
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Your
judgment decreases with cold just like when you are drinking. |
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Cold makes you dumb! And it sneaks up on you even more than alcohol. |
|
 | Drink
a lot of fluids!!
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Being
properly hydrated helps your body conduct heat. |
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Take
drink breaks at least as often as in hot weather - if not more often. |
|
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Dress
in layers, always keep warm.
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Suggestion-1
(( If you have leathers ))
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Thermals
- top & bottom
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Cotton
is OK |
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Silk
is better (what the serious skiers use) |
|
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Jeans
& Shirt |
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Leathers
- top & bottom |
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If
it is really cold, cover it all with wind proof nylon warm-up suit |
|
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Suggestion-2
(( If you do NOT have leathers ))
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Thermals
- top & bottom |
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Sweats
- top & bottom |
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Oversize
Jeans, Jean Jacket (Note: Carhart work one piece overall works
too) |
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Then
put on nylon wind breaker warm-up suit |
|
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Suggestion-3
((If
you
do
not
have
leathers
or
riding
suit))
-
Thanks
to
JW
for
this
one!
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Insulated
Carhart pants/overalls make excellent riding wear if you are not a slave to bike fashion. |
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You can get the full insulated suit a lot cheaper than a riding suit, the material is a tough as anything you can wear |
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A |
|
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When
all else fails - wrap yourself in plastic trash bags to form dead air
layer and wind break |
|
 | A
full face helmet is definitely the best for the cold weather. |
 | Best
investment is top-level insulated, air proof gloves
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Your hands are always
in the wind, always griping |
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Always the first part to chill out - just when
you need them the most. |
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SilverBack
recommends: Olympia Wind-Tex - expensive but worth every penny! |
|
 | Don't
forget your feet - insulated boots do the trick
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Just don't get them on the
small side |
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Need room for those pinkies to
move, and maybe 2 pairs of socks. |
|
 | Carry
some chemical warmer packs
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Small
ones - for when you really get cold feet and hands -
for inside your gloves and inside your boots on top of your toes. |
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Bigger
ones (Therma-Care) - wrap around the back over your kidneys - toasty
warm - last 8 hours (Thanks, JW!) |
|
 | Invest
in a balaclava - or turtleneck and a scarf - or all of them!
 |
One
size fits all head covering with eye-nose/mouth opening - long enough to
tuck inside your jacket |
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They
also come with nylon like head covering and fleece in the neck and upper
chest area - toasty! |
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Keep
the
blood
flowing
to
your
brain
warm
-
helps
you
think
well! |
|
 |
Go
Electric!
|
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Links
to other Hints pages
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Terminology -
Riding Terms, "Rider-ology"
( if you have questions or more terms - send to david.slone@pobox.com
)
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50/50 or 50-50 (or 40/60,
etc) Drawing
Money raising drawing --
where participants pay for a ticket (typically $1), all the tickets are put
into a "hat" and a winning ticket is drawn. The winning
ticket gets 50% of the pot made up of all the ticket money, and the
"cause" gets the other 50%. Variations: a. different
percentages splits and b. something like 40/20/40 - where the first ticket
drawn gets 40%, the second gets 20% and the "cause" gets 40%.
Also a means of defining
the prize(s) for other events - defining the percentage of the entry fees
that will be used for the prize(s) and the percentage for the "cause"
-- as opposed to fixed, predefined prize amounts.
|
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Accidents Low-Side
When the bike falls to the LOW side of its lean (thus the term
"low-side") laying the bike down usually on top of part of the
rider (legs, feet) - typically occurs when the front wheel skids (out) as a
result of hitting sand or gravel when in a curve, or when braking in a curve
- causing the front wheel to lose traction and skid out from under the
rider. NEVER brake in corners! Remember: Oh shit! Straighten up.
Then stop. High-Side
When the bike falls to the HIGH (or top) side of its lean (thus the
term "high-side" or "top-side") throwing the rider over
the top and off the bike - typically occurs as a result of a rear wheel skid
followed by the rear wheel regaining traction combining with the bike not
being aligned with the direction of travel, forcing the rider up and over
the top of the bike and off into "space". Remember: If you
are in rear wheel skid as a result of braking, do NOT release that rear
brake, ride out the skid rather than go "over the top". |
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Bug Run |
Motorcycle ride over defined
route - where entrants pay to enter, get a white sticker placed on their
windshield, ride the route and the sticker is examined at the end of the ride
- with prizes awarded for things like the most bugs, the most colorful splat,
biggest splat, etc. Disgusting, but apropos the reality of riding - so,
if it happens use it as the basis of a contest. Oh, yeah - prizes usually come
out of the entry fee and the balance goes to the "cause"
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Cruise In
Best described as a
non-event event - just come on down during the hours of the "Cruise
In" and visit and see the other folks' equipment (bike, hot rod,
Corvette, etc). Think back to the 50's and 60's, to Happy Days on TV
(man am I dating myself, or what) and the evening ritual of cruising into
the local diner to meet your friends and show off your car - then move to
today and think motorcycles - you got it!!
Just as in the olden
days, these events are usually at some local "eatery" - to combine
fueling with ogling (machines or TOS). |
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Poker Run
Money raising event -
where you buy a poker hand (or too or three), and then "draw" your
hand one card at a time - starting at the beginning, at several defined
stops on a defined route, and at the end. You draw your cards from a
bag containing one deck of cards at each stop, if you draw a card already recorded on your score sheet you draw again, and then the prize(s) are awarded at the end.
Prizes are often awarded for highest hand, second highest, and so forth and even for the worst hand.
|
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Dice Run
Similar to Poker Run, but instead of drawing
cards for a poker hand, you roll dice at each stop, and accumulate points
equal to the sum of the counts of each dice roll, toward prizes based on
highest total score. Ties are settle with a roll-off at the end of the
run. The best variation I have seen involves running a progressively
larger number of dice (up by one) at each stop - thus ensuring a large count
and higher chance of avoiding ties.
|
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Road Rally(e)
This is a rider against
the rules and "an ideal riding time" event - typically a ride
through the countryside along a defined route, with speed limits per leg,
maximum speed per leg of the ride, and defined checkpoints (where you must
report and get signed in). The challenge is to exactly match (or be
closest to) a secret, defined "ideal riding time" that is not
known until all riders have completed the course. Winners will adhere
strictly to the "do not exceed" speeds, the legal speed limits,
and the navigational directions -- and will have to judge how best to handle
slowdowns and speedups and traffic impeding their adhering to the speeds
defined.
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