V*Star 1100 KB (FAQ)

>> Last Updated: 07/27/2008 02:16 PM Central Time <<

1. Oil, Oil Changes, ORKs (Back to Topics)

Check & Change Oil How Often Which Oil? Oil Filters Oil Light Oil-filterRelocationKits ORK Covers Oil Cooler Oil Pressure Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs

Ways To Check Your Oil (updated 06/09/07)
1. Two person job - someone sits on the bike, holds it level while someone else checks the sight glass on the left side.

How to Change Your Oil (updated 07/2708)

How much oil?

Stock oil filter installed: 3.17 qts if no filter change - 3.3 qts if filter changed

ORK installed: slightly more, about 3.3 qts if no filter change - 3.5 qts if filter changed

Note: in all cases, fill to 3 qts, warm bike, shut it off, let oil drain back, check and top off to the center of the sight glass level indicators - if you overfill, you will get lots of oil up in the air box, dog bowl, and maybe on the engine top - over-fill is not good.

Be careful - do not lose the O-ring marked as number 6 below - easy to do, so be careful! (This is a corrected diagram - fiche one is wrong!)

From Cobb - 15 Minute Oil & Filter Change with Stock Pipes

The following is my systematic step by step process for achieving a 15 minute oil change. Thought it may be usefull for the KB.

Tools Needed:

1 x 3/8 drive Ratchet

1 x 3/8 x 2" Extension

1 x 3/8 x 12mm Socket

1 x 5mm Hex Key

1 x 7mm Hex Key

1 x Pliers

1 x 17mm Ring/Open End Spanner

1 x Oil Drain Pan

1 x Brick

Additional Requirements:

Your Favorite Oil

Oil Filter

Front Exhaust Crush Gasket (Optional)

The 15 Minute Oil Change systematic process:

On LH Side of Bike

1. To level Bike, place brick under side stand

2. Remove Oil Fill Bung

3. Place oil drain pan under bike

4. Remove Oil Drain plug with 17mm spanner and commence draining oil...

On RH Side of bike

5. Remove Rear Slip-on Exhaust Bolts (6mm hex) and remove mufflers.

6. Remove Front Header Pipe (12mm Socket/Ratchet)

7. Remove Oil Filter Side Cover (5mm Hex) (Watch out for rubber O-ring, make sure you put it back)

8. Remove Oil Filter Inner Cover (Pliers)

9. Remove/Replace Oil Filter

10.Replace Oil Filter Inner Cover

11.Replace Oil Filter Side Cover (5mm Hex)

12.Replace Front Header Pipe

13.Replace Rear Mufflers

Back to LH side:

14.Replace Oil Drain Plug.

15.Refill to halfway up Sight Glass with your favorite drop of Oil

16.Replace Oil Fill Bung

Please dispose of old oil in an environmentally safe way.

Now get out there and enjoy your ride.

Northern Stars of ISRA Oil & Filter Change Instructions

Other Thoughts on Changing Oil:

Some hints: Did my first one a couple weeks back and followed same instruction posted in this thread...went very well, took my time and could probably do next one in 20-30 minutes. I did pick up the pertinent o-rings/exhaust gaskets just to have, but did not use them this go round, I seen others on here say the exhaust gaskets are usually good for a few removals, will change next time. The wife had an older rectangular cake pan that is about 2-3" high that worked well for oil to drain into. Also, pay close attention to the one (only 1) little o-ring at the bottom that is in between the hatch plug and case if you plan to reuse...mine ended up in drain pan.

Another thing I found essential (because the lack of a 3rd hand) was some high temp copper silicone...just to put a thin coat on 1 side of exhaust gasket to hold it up in place while installing header pipe.

After doing it all once, next time will be a breeze.

How Often to Change Your Oil? & Related Questions: (updated 04/04/08)

” Why are you guys replacing the filter every oil change or even twice ?”

DaddoCFL -
I run synthetic oil which has the ability to far outlast the performance limits of any Dino (mineral oil) that you can buy. As long as the additive package remains intact and the oil structure does not give it up to the intense stress of a common oil bath of the engine and transmission, there is no need to replace the oil.

If you run a quality synthetic in this engine, there is no reason why the service period should not extend to 10,000 miles or more. However, it is important for the health of the oil and the engine, to make sure that foreign objects, metallic particles and other particles are removed from the oil. Depending on the quality and capacity of the filter that is used, I would still replace it and top the crankcase off at each 4,000 or 5,000 mile point.

”But how about the filtering ability increasing to some extent as the filter gets dirtier ?”

DaddoCFL -
If you used a HVAC air filter as an example it might at first seem so, but it really does not work that way for fluid filters that trap hard and nasty bits of carbon and other particulate matter. As the oil filter does it’s job, it’s efficiency deteriorates. When an air filter traps dust fibers in the web of it’s filter media, for a while anyway, the slight build-up of fiber can actually work to trap smaller fiber until the filter starts to clog. With an oil filter, the fluid does not want to flow past the hard particulate matter and it looks for another way around, or if it starts to clog, the oil pressure will actually push the smaller particles through the media and back to the engine.

Which Oil to Use? (updated 11/03/07)

Read this article first - good stuff on oils in general and then ends with recommendation for motorcycles.

    http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

A. There are a ton of ideas on which oil to use in the 1100's, but this next item is from one of the more knowledgeable 1100 riders, well respected by the folks on the forum. In my opinion, you cannot go wrong following his advice!

Daddo (DaddoCFL):

For normal folks, riding stock V-Star’s, almost any 10W-40 through 20W-50 oil will make the bike happy, as long at it does not contain (energy conserving - Silverback**) friction modifiers, and the owner follows the factory recommended drain and filter swap intervals.

For bikes that are subjected to extreme conditions of use or environment, some of the higher quality, motorcycle specific oils may be a better choice. That would include the use of Synthetic lubricants. For the first 45 thousand miles of it’s life, my V-Star 1100 lived on AMSOIL 20W-50. I have switched to Mobil One Gold Cap 20W-50, and the bike is perfectly happy.

Why did I switch? The fact was that I could no longer buy the AMSOIL for only $4.05 a quart and the Mobil One is close to that price. I could have gone with the Mobile One from the start, but there were other issues that had little to do with the needs of the bike.

I almost hate to post my own specific drain intervals, as that knowledge has in the past, caused some small minds to get their shorts in a knot. However, I drain my oil at the 10,000 mile point but replace my filter at the 5,000 mile point, topping off the oil. The bike is approaching 60,000 miles and does not burn or leak a drop of oil.

** SilverBack: seems most of the synthetic oils do contain friction modifiers - but the ones noted above and below do NOT contain energy conserving friction modifiers, with this distinction making them acceptable for V-Twin MC use.

What to Look for On the Oil Container: (click pix for larger version)

The GOOD Oil        The EVIL Oil



B. In keeping with the idea of "lots of opinions, here are a few more - also from guys/gals whose opinions I respect:

    Shell Rotella T 5W-40 at Wal-Mart

    Mobil 1 V twin 20w50

    Mobil 1 Gold Cap 15W-50. Now replaced with Silver cap.

    Mobil 1 10w40 for 4 stroke motorcycle engines

    Castrol ACT EVO V Twin 4-Stroke Motor Oil SAE 20W-50

Oil Filters (updated 11/28/06)

Avoid Fram Filters - paper ends have been reported to disintegrate - bad news.

Stock Oil Filters (No ORK): (updated 10/20/07)

www.wixfilters.com Number 24935 use link to find dealer (note: this has all O-rings included)

Hastings LF583 filter. http://catalog.hastingsfilters.com/ (note:Comes with the new O rings.

         Emgo 10-79100
         K&N KN-145
         Hiflo HF145

Note: Amsoil no longer makes filters for 1100 (per forum member)

Oil Filters for the Phat / Elite ORK:

Harley Davidson (63805-80A, black) or (63796-77A, chrome)

        EMGO (10-82420, black) or (10-82400, chrome)
        HIFLO (HF-170, black) or (HF170C, chrome)
        K&N (KN-170, black) or (KN170C, chrome)
        K&N (KN-171, black) or (KN171C, chrome) with anti backflow valve
        AMSOIL (SMF 135 (or 134?), black) or (SMF 135C (or 134C?), chrome)

Oil Filters For the Perf-form ORK (updated 11/28/06)

See above list (Phat/Elite ORK) - same HD filters used

Oil filters for the ME ORK (updated 03/24/07)

Just ask for an Equivalent Roadstar (99 to present) filter:

(note: these are all metric filters)

Yamaha 3FV-13440-00
Perf-form (J-503 black) or (J-503C for chrome)
Amsoil (SDF13 or SMF103 black) or (SMF103C for chrome)
EMGO (10-82230 black) or (10-82220 for chrome)
Bosch (3300)
Fram (6017A) Fram also makes a Chrome one pn?????
Hastings (LF-113)
HIFLO (HF303) or (HF303C for chrome)
K&N (KN-303) or (KN-303C for chrome)
NAPA Gold (1358)
Purolator (ML16817)
STP (SDF13)
Wix (51358)

Oil Filters For the Jardine ORK (updated 11/27/06)

See above list (ME ORK) - same metric filters used

Oil Filters For the Barons ORK (updated 05/16/07)

See above list (ME ORK) - same metric filters used

Oil Filter Thread - will summarize results of discussion later.

Oil Filters 101 - recommended reading from Daddo (DaddoCFL)

All About Oil Filters (read it all and follow all links!)

Micron Ratings for Filters

Study: Motorcycle Oil Filter Comparison by Mark Lawrence

Study: Engine Oil Filter Study by Russ W. Knize

Oil Light:

The only oil light thing I have heard of is that it sometimes will get a bubble over the sensor and give you a false light. The oil light is a level light not a pressure light, BTW - Here's a good discussion thread: 13216.1
Oil-Filter Relocation Kits (ORK) - (updated 04/01/08)
1. To ORK or NOT to ORK
  
  ORKs are convenient! They save time and fuss when changing your oil.
  
  ORKs remove chance of pipe damage, pipe flange/bolt damage, and the cost of new crush gaskets for the front pipe!
  
  ORKs are controversial!!!
  
  There is considerable "controversy" over the use of ORKs - based on some reported stock cam scoring in cases where ORKs were in use - and also many cases of high mileage bikes that have used ORKs with no failure.
  
  There has been no real research (only anecdotal reports) on ORK use vs. failures. However, even if the risk of occurrence is fairly low, the severity of the impact / loss can be quite high. Cam scoring and some risk of damaging the head (because on the inside the cam does not ride on replaceable bearing, but on milled surfaces in the head) so you do risk having to replace the head, plus the cams - and perhaps more if the failure becomes catastrophic.
  
  This link is to a discussion or the merits vs the risks of ORKs - and cams are a player in that discussion.
  
  http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=22674.1
  
  This is a another thread on the topic, with some new data and opinions - worth the read - relates to a bike engine failure and then opens up to more ORK talk:
  
  http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=24555.1
  
  SilverBack's personal opinion - MAKE YOUR OWN DECISION - TAKE YOUR OWN RISKS:
  Reasoning: Larger lines have been measured - and they do not cause pressure drop across the filter.
  
  Risk is reduced (but not eliminated) - enough so I use a larger lines ORK.
  Also, visit the Cams vs ORKs topic here.
2. ORK Vendors
  
  http://www.motorcycleenhancements.com/
  
  http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPP-007
  
  http://www.baronscustom.com/
  
  http://www.jardineproducts.com/
3. Discussion
  
  Which is best?
  
  There has been a lot of forum discussion on which brand or type is best. As far as I can see, there does not appear to be a clear case to anoint one as the winner. Some claim the vertical mount type can (will?) be pre-filled to ensure less time the engine is without oil during first stat after an oil change. Given the internal coating of the lubricated parts, I really am not convinced by this argument. There has been discussion about oil line diameter - also not definitive. I have seen NO reported failures of any ORK - so that is also not definitive.
  
  Net, Net - its whatever floats YOUR boat.
  
  ORK Line Size
  
  There has been a lot of discussion, somewhat heated, regarding the best line size for the ORK. Most say that the lines shipped with most ORKs are A-OK at 1/8inch ID - 1/4inch OD. Others say they should all be shipped with larger, 5/16inch ID lines. Phat offers larger (5/16inch) replacement lines that will fit most ORKs. See them here.
  
  Here is the "best" argument for getting the larger oil lines (or buying an ORK with larger lines): (In response to a set of comments - included)
  
  ??"Don't you need to maintain a certain degree of pressure within the oil line? If so won't you decrease the pressure in the line by increasing the size of the hole and thereby reduce the amount of oil you are sending through?"
  
  It doesn't work that way. If there was a constant supply of oil, at the same constant volume coming out of an oil pump, different sized oil lines would all deliver the same amount of oil at the outlet of the line. The larger the line Inside Diameter, the lower the pressure that would be required to deliver that same amount of oil. As the ID of the oil line gets smaller, more and more pressure will be needed to deliver that same amount of oil. As the "hole" gets smaller, more and more pressure will be required to push that volume of oil through the hole.
  
  Here is where we encounter a problem. Some might think that because our 1100 engine has a positive displacement pump, it will continue to build up sufficient pressure to drive the required volume of oil through the small 1/8" ID oil lines. There is unfortunately a major flaw in that argument.
  Yes the pump is of the positive displacement type. However, It will not keep building pressure up against that 1/8” hole in the wall.
  
  The reason being, is that the oil discharge from the pump immediately comes to a non-discriminating splitter or “T”. Part of the flow goes directly to the oil filter, and the rest is channeled to lubricate the lower end (primarily the main axle, drive axle, pinion drive and middle drive shaft.). If the oil path to and downstream of the stock filter chamber is either blocked or severely restricted, the bulk of the oil will redirect through the lower end supply up to the point where it will either handle the surplus flow of oil, or the relief valve (between Oil Pump and the Stock Oil Filter chamber) will open. That valve will release oil back into the sump at it’s nominal operating pressure of between 450 - 550 kPa or 64.0 – 78.2psi.
  
  ??"Also what size are the oil lines on the bike stock?"
  
  The most obvious way to get a handle on that was by direct measurement. I took the opportunity to measure the accessible entry and exit passages that supply oil to the stock oil filter chamber, as well as the passage that delivers filtered oil from the stock chamber to the top end of the engine. the smallest dimension that I measured was almost 9mm (somewhere between 9/16" and 3/8")
  
  Further, if you do a close examination of the engineered drawings of the bikes lubrication passages, it is evident that the supply flows through upper engine galleries that are consistently close to that same size prior to the distribution splits to the various lubrication points.
  
  I'll give you something to think about at this point. After a significant supply of the filtered oil is draw off to lubricate the crankshaft and lower connecting rods, the remaining oil is then routed out of the engine into the two small 1/8" tubes that run up to the heads to lubricate the cams, rockers, and the upper chain gear socket. Now the Yamaha design engineers had determined that each of the heads would require a supply of oil delivered through the very same sized supply line that some of the ORK manufacturers have used to supply ALL of the oil for the top end of the engine.
  
  Do you see something wrong with this picture?
  
  More:
  
  Because of the fact that the fitting holes have been placed so closely together on all of the available Oil Relocation kits, the largest available NPT fittings are of the 1/8" NPT variety.
  
  Now NPT fitting dimensions are a bit misleading as the interior diameter (ID) of a 1/8" NPT pipe nipple is actually somewhere between 1/4" and 17/64". The next available size in NPT fittings would be 1/4". Much too large for the existing fittings to be drilled out and tapped for the larger size. There is just no way to do it with the existing ORK options.
  
  However, when you consider the differences in flow capacity between a 1/8" ID conduit and a 1/4" conduit, the difference is significant. The 1/4" diameter conduit is 326% of the smaller line. because of fluid flow dynamics, the actual capacity is even greater due to a lower frictional drag component in the larger sized fitting. The bottom line is that switching to a larger 1/4" ID conduit is like replacing the 1/8" ID lines on some of these kits with almost 4 complete oil lines of the same size!
  
  The actual resistance calculation for the addition of a remote filter is complicated as the addition of additional "plumbing" of course adds friction to the process.
  
  First we would need to exclude or ignore any friction load induced by the filter itself. The stock filter is just a simple cartridge and we have no flow restriction data for it. But although the replacement filters include a few more internal twists and turns and an anti-drain valve, I’m prepared to count it equal to the stock due to the larger media surface area.
  
  We also need to consider the added friction drag of the galleries in the replacement filter hatch covers and the remote filter mount, not to forget the two short AN compression hoses and 4 - 1/8” matching fittings.
  
  It is because of this additional friction or resistance to the flow of oil, that I have recommended 1/4" ID or 5/16" ID lines. Of course the actual fittings represent a 1/4"+ restriction, but that restriction is only part of the equation when it comes to calculating the oil flow.
  
  Because of the fact that I am also circulating oil through an external oil cooler on my own bike, I have increased my oil line size to a full 3/8" to further reduce the frictional drag component of the entire external system. For a filter alone, I would be comfortable with 1/8" NPT x 1/4" or 1/8" NPT x 5/16" ID fittings and matching line.
4. Discussion: Why Install ORK?
  
  Similarly, there has also been a lot of discussion on the forum about the pro/con of installing an ORK.
  
  DO's Say: Easier to change oil, less time required, more time to ride. Avoids the risk of repeatedly dropping the upper pipe and messing with manifold bolts - notorious for brittleness and likelihood of snapping off. ORK hangs out in the breeze, so there is some oil cooling - which is good. Looks better, and let's me get an ORK "hole" cover to add some more pizzazz to the bike.
  
  DON"Ts Say: Doesn't really take that long to change your all, so use $$ to buy other things. It is not risky to mess with manifold bolts.
  
  Net, Net on this one - neither side appears to be able to sway the other - it is almost like a "religious" decision - the no-ORKers have even called themselves a club - something about purism - and if that don't sound like a "religion" then . . . NOTE: this discussion is sure to set off some folks when they discover it - REMEMBER - I am NOT casting aspersions but trying to humorously depict the discussions and conclusions (or lack thereof) as they appeared on the forum.
  
  From a wrencher who's opinion I greatly value - Joe Canway:
  
  If you have 1/8 lines going to and from the relo filter it would be better if they were 5/16".
  
  You really need to understand the way oil circulates from the filter thru the left side case cover and into the vital parts of the motor to see why the 1/8 lines might be a bad thing. Nothing in the stock filter housing is 1/8 inch. The port leaving the filter housing which feeds the crank and top end ports is 5/16". Why would it be a good idea to feed this with 1/8 lines? Not to mention the oil port entering the stock filter housing from the pump is much larger. Back pressure at that point opens the pressure relief valve and oil simply dumps back to the pan.
  
  a few of us had relo kits and put pressure gauges on and a few others put pressure gauges on without relo's. All I will say is my relo kit was removed shortly after this.
  
  If you feel comfortable with the kit then that's cool. I didn't. I also went from the 1/8" to 3/8" lines and pressures did improve, but still not as good as stock. Was more oil flowing with the larger lines? My guess is yes.
5. ORK Oil Filter Discussion:
  
  For Current List of filters - click here
  
  Commentary From DaddoCFL:
  
  For those who have upgrade their bikes by the installation of an Oil Filter Relocation kit, the good news is that you really have the choice of a lot of very good, and even some superior filters. Virtually any of the filters out there represent a better alternative then the stock cartridge filter element. This is due to the facts that in most cases a spin on cartridge has a larger amount of filter media, and in most cases the media itself is of a better quality then that found in the currently available stock filter cartridges.
  
  This was a difficult project to conclude as there are a lot of “average” and a very few “better” oil filters, but really no one “best” oil filter for your bike. The terms average and better are based upon the type and quantity of filter media, and the over all quality and features of filter construction (for example the type of anti-drain back valve, or the inclusion of a by-pass to prevent the blockage of oil flow due to media that becomes clogged by particulate mater).
  
  For factory oil change intervals, most filters will work very well. For those who use synthetic oil and run with an extended drain interval of 8, 10 or even 12,000 miles I would suggest that the following filters offer a higher protection level then the average (these are my personal preference based on the results of a number of independent filter evaluations). They would be (in no particular order)
  
  Purolator Pure One
  Mobil M1
  Bosch
  
  However, there is a specific line of filters that should most likely be avoided like the plague (that would be Fram and a number of other branded filters made by Fram).
  
  “Never use a Fram, Pennzoil, Penske, Castrol, or Quaker State oil filter in any motor you like. All of these filters are made by Fram. The filter element itself is a normal paper element, and probably no better or worse than anyone else's paper element. However, the end caps on the filter element are made of cardboard in these filters. There are numerous stories of these cardboard end caps getting saturated with oil and coming apart, putting little cardboard fragments directly into the oil flow into your engine bearings. As they say in GhostBusters, this "would be bad." Personally, I don't consider cardboard a suitable material for my engine internals.” – Mark Lawrence
  
  http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcdaily/day0003.html Fram Oil Filters Recalled
  
  If you have not read this report yet, this is a good time: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters
ORK (Oil-filter Relocation Kit) Covers
1. Vendors:
  
  Barons has 3 styles: http://baronscustom.com/html/catalog/browse/yamaha/vstar1100classic/AC?category=AC&p=2&
  
  Pat Murphy - Mods Your Stock Cover For $30 (NO Longer Doing This!)
  
  Mark (kooltools) also does the mod via email: mailto:kuntao@alltel.net
2. DIY
  
  Instructions to Mod Stock Cover to Fit over ORK
  
  Murphy's Oil Relocation Cover Mod Vstar_in_NH
ORK (Oil-filter Relocation Kit) Oil Filters (updated 11/27/06)

List of Filters for ORK's: Click Here - this content was combined with list of non-ORK filters
Oil Cooler (updated 06/10/07)

Oil Cooler for Exposed / ORK Filters

This is a review in one of the cycle mags - http://www.roadstarmagazine.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=19

Engine Oil Cooler -- Daddo (DaddoCFL)

Depending on the climate where you live, an oil cooler may be something you want to add to your bike as an improvement to your remote oil filter. Sorry folks, but without the benefit of an existing remote oil kit, there is no way for you to add an oil cooler to the engine. An Oil Cooler is added to the circuit by replacing the return line (from the filter to the engine), with a new line that routes the oil path through the cooler, and then returns the cooled oil back to the engine.

Operating your bike within it’s design parameters is one of the best ways to ensure long life for your air cooled, V-Twin engine. One of the best preventative actions that you can take is to make sure that your engine oil is kept fresh and clean, and that it stays within it’s specified operating temperature range.

Every time your engine oil goes through a heat cycle, a portion of its additives can be burned away. When you exceed the maximum operating temperature of your oil, your engine burns off additives at a faster rate and reduces the performance of the oil and its usable life more quickly.

During the summer months, in most areas of the country, making sure that our air-cooled motors stay within their average operating temperature of 210 - 230 degrees can be a challenge. One way to ensure that your engine oil lasts as long as it should is to install an oil cooler. In the summer it is obvious. Riding to places like Sturgis in the summer heat is another given. Ride in the Southern or Southwestern States? Get a cooler. Ride your beast unmercifully? It becomes a good idea. A lot of city driving, particularly rush hour traffic? Put one on.

Are Oil Coolers a required accessory, no they are not. You can adjust your ridding patterns when ambient temperature conditions or traffic congestion is extreme.

After market oil coolers are generally rectangular, but come in a whole range of sizes and configurations. They can be mounted parallel to the ground, or vertically. It really does not care how you mount it as long as it is subject to the air stream when your bike is in motion.

OK, how do you go about choosing an appropriate cooler for your needs? The decision is the same with any other accessory that you choose. Go with whatever “look” tends to spin your propeller.

There are the higher priced billet oil coolers with "highly efficient heat sinks that pulls heat from the oil . . . yadda, yadda, yadda". Then there are the more functional types that are constructed with thin metal, radiator style fins to efficiently dissipate heat into the surrounding air stream.

A “reasonable” individual would understand that the efficiency of an oil cooler is determined by the length of the cooling oil passages encased by finning (is that a word???), the number of fins, the area of finning as a cooling surface, exposure to air, air temperature, motorcycle speed and internal construction of the cooler lines.

An Oil Cooler can be as simple as a “U” shaped, finned automatic transmission cooler, salvaged from a wrecked car, http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=E53F9C44-DA59-4308-855F-576EBEF92EAE&search=oil%20cooler&store=All&page=2

or as Glitzy as this twin-tube, billet, turned work of art offered by J&P Cycles (and others):
http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=3AE1B5C9-0135-4FC0-8A48-282501567E7A&search=oil%20cooler&store=All&page=5

An efficient oil cooler will cool engine oil by around 25 degrees. It will vary with differing conditions

Do you want your oil cooler operating all of the time? The answer is probably not. When you first start the bike, and in very cold riding conditions you really don’t want to chill down your oil temperature. There are three basic ways of addressing this issue. You can install a manual switching valve, you can install an automatic thermostat valve, or you can simply cover the oil cooler element with one of the many leather or synthetic Oil cooler jackets that are on the market. The particular filter that I chose (Lockhart 6000 series) has an internal thermostat and valve to automatically circulate the hot oil through the cooling element, only when the oil temperature starts to creep above 180 degrees and supplementary cooling is required.

Lockhart and others also sell a small external thermostat operated valve which will route the oil through your cooling coil at the appropriate temperature. Or, you can choose a manual switching valve (like the one sold by Jagg) to determine when your cooler will function.

When I started riding, the “high tech” way to restrict the cooling action or a radiator or an oil cooler was to tie a piece of cardboard over the fins to stop air flow. The leather and billet boys have come a long way since then <G>

Do you want to screw up your front fender? Go ahead and bolt an oil cooler (or anything else) to the frame down tubes without first compressing the forks completely to measure how much room you have.

You most likely don’t want to locate an oil cooler to low on the down tubes, and it is absolute idiocy to mount it below the frame. If you hit a curb or some other obstruction, you can dump all your engine oil onto the ground. Unnoticed, this will deep six your engine from lack of lubrication, or worse cause a slippery accident from an oil soaked tire. It is also obvious not to locate the cooler in an area where airflow is obstructed. No airflow equals no cooling.

If you make the decision to upgrade the protection level of your engine, I will be glad to hunt down the parts numbers and sources that you will need for the install. (( DaddoCFL@Earthlink.net )) There is one issue that you will need to come to grips with, no serious manufacturer of after market or OEM replacement Oil handling accessories will use anything less then 3/8” inside diameter tubing on ANY of their products. Because of this you will need to upgrade at least the return line of ANY of the existing Oil Relocation Kits out there (except for Brado’s original kit which of course came with the industry standard 3/8” ID lines). Without 3/8” ID supply and return lines there are NO oil coolers out there that you can connect to. I don’t want to rekindle an old argument, but this is just a simple fact.

More - how to hook it up:

That’s an easy one, as it can easily be accomplished with ANY of the Remote Oil Kits on the market. The plumbing for the unit is supplied by the oil filter module return line. The return line fittings of your ORK are replaced by Chrome 1/8” x 3/8” NPT straight pipe nipple fittings. They are available from J&P Cycles and are relatively cheap. You will also need a couple of feet of 3/8” ID Stainless Braided oil line hose and four Stainless hose clamps.

The unfiltered oil comes out of the engine side ORK module and goes into the Filter side ORK module where it cycles through the spin on filter. It is then routed out of the Filter Side ORK module and into the Oil Cooler Inlet. The cooled oil is then routed to the Engine Side ORK module where it is on it’s way to lubricate the top end of your engine. If you choose an Oil Cooler without an internal thermostat, you will also need to plumb the thermostat into the Oil Cooler’s supply and return lines.

Some Oil Oil cooler links & Options:

Jagg Oil Coolers http://www.jagg.com/cooler.htm

Various oil coolers http://www.legendmcs.com/Oil-Tanks/Oil-tank-coolers-oil-coolers-filters.html

Lockhart external thermostat http://www.cyclecustomizing.com/products/oil_cooler_thermostat_8426.html

Jagg Manual by-pass valve http://www.jagg.com/by-pass.htm

Leather covers for oil coolers http://www.aceleather.com/html/oil_cover.htm
Oil Pressure (updated 04/16/07)

Oil Pressure Gauges

As far as I know, only Shane at SS custom Cycles (http://www.sscustomcycle.com/) sells and oil pressure gauge for the 1100.

See it here: http://www.sscustomcycle.com/products/accessories/general.shtml

Oil Pressure measured at the lines headed for the engine top end:

Bret says: When I first started it up I want to say it went to 60 PSI momentarily then gradually dropped. At idle it only reads around 8-10 PSI.

Ray says: When it's cold it almost hit 60psi & like Brett said it drops down to below 10psi @ a hot idle. Freeway cruising is around 25-30 psi.
Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs (updated 07/26/07)
1. Part #'s from Advance Auto Parts today to do my service
  Made by Oil-Tite
  M14 X 1.50 magnetic oil drain plug # 65216
  M14 Copper washers 3ea. # 65268
2. AutoZone it's a "Motormite" product #65216 and it's a M14-1.50 Pilot Point. Corrected wrong number was posted in forum - wrong was: #65216
  These are over by the oil products, on a separate rack from the other help type items they usually have.
  Also pick up a pack of the copper washers 14mm to go with the plug, they are right next to them.

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