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3. Exhaust pipes                (Back to Topics)

Install Ideas/Hints   Cleaning Pipes  Stock Pipe Mods  Stock Pipes Across Years  Catalytic Converter Bikes  Slip-Ons   Full Pipes   2-Into-1  Baffles & Torque Cones     "Painting" Pipes Black``   Dual Pipes  DIY Thunder Baffle  Cobra 2-into-1 Top Pipe  Exhaust Wrap

1. Gasket/Pipe Install Hints:   (updated 8/27/06)

    

   LPstardog: A thing I found essential (because the lack of a 3rd hand) was some high temp copper silicone...just to put a thin coat on 1 side of exhaust gasket to hold it up in place while installing header pipe

    

   Tankman653: This always works for me. I was getting exhaust leaks most every time I took them loose. Started doing them like this and haven't had a problem since.

   Run the nuts down as far as possible finger tight. Try make sure both sides are as even as possible at this point. Turn one full turn on each nut until they are snug. Then half turn on each nut until they are tight. It's a bit of a PIA but it works. I'm a little anal about oil changes and change the oil every 3 to 4 months regardless of the mileage. Doing it this way I have been able to get a good seal every time.

    

2. Cleaning Pipes  (updated 9/29/06)

    

   When you burn something onto your pipes:

    

   Carefully apply Cold Oven Oven Cleaner, let it sit for 15 minutes, and then remove it.  Might take several applications, and you might want to scrape it with something softly rigid (credit card, wood shim, plastic putty knife)

    

   From Brenda (SoLowSolo):

    

   Here's what ya do: Stop by your local "mega mart" or hardware store and buy a BRASS BRISTLE BRUSH - you can get them in a couple different sizes - they are generally about the size of a toothbrush. Don't get the ones with steel bristles or nylon bristles - only BRASS.
   
   Start your bike to get the pipes hot, then shut it off. Take the BRASS BRUSH and lightly brush away at the "stuff" stuck on the pipes (try a light, circular motion). If it all doesn't come off the first time, repeat the process. Brass is soft enough not to leave a mark on your chrome (but DO be gentle!). When all the "stuff" is gone, polish with chrome polish - and for an extra touch, try one of the new "micro-fiber polishing cloths".
   
   Some of the new "synthetics" in our clothing get really hard after they melt and then cool down. If the "stuff" is thick on there, you'll probably need to get your pipes pretty hot to get it to "re-melt" or soften, then take it off in layers with the brush.
   
   I carry a brass brush in my saddlebag all the time and use it anytime I stop and see something on my chrome that shouldn't be there! They cost only about $1.00 for the "toothbrush size" and maybe 50 cents to $1 more for the slightly larger one (YOU may need the bigger one.)
   
   If this still persists, leave the bike running and work with the brush (please don't post me a nasty note if you burn your knuckles while doing this LOL)

    

   From: Ivan Talley [ITalley@mailbmc.com]

    

   I've been having real good results using Chrome Polish and a Dremel polishing tip to remove all kinds of baked on "plastics" from my exhaust. It has worked best when using the Dremel while the polish is still wet. No real elbow grease needed and the polish lubricates the tip to prevent removal of the chrome. No discernible degradation of the chrome and I've had to do this 2-3 times now in the same damn area of the pipes! Ha!

    

3. Stock Exhaust Modification   (updated 06/06/08)

    

   1. DIY Mod

      Jack Phelps's Exhaust Mod - Drill out stock pipe ends, remove rear baffles, insert (or not) new tail piece. $10.00

      Note: latest version has "how to" for 06 models (which may also apply to 05 California models, too - I think!)

       

      Note: Pipes with Catalytic Converters - see this thread: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=16312.1

      Note: Per BHandrahan: "But as it turns out you can't do the mod to the "Calif" model 2004 V-Star as they have a cat inside that is too big to come out with the baffle."

       

   2. Grizzly Mod

      BikerBrackets.com  Grizzly Beart Exhaust Mods

       

4. California & '06 Models Issues   (updated 7/9/06)

   Note: All full pipes and all slip-ons will fit the '06 models & past California models.  Full sets usually provide their own rear bracket which bolts to the unchanged (vs. prior yrs) frame mounting holes.  Slip-ons most likely will require you to buy an older, non-California stock rear bracket. Read on!!

    

   US versions of the 06 1100's have different stock pipes than past model years - similar to 05 California models - meaning they have catalytic converters in the tail pieces - AND different rear exhaust mounting  brackets.
   
   That change may mean fewer options on slip-ons and full systems due to add-on market lag. Also means you might have to order a bracket from an 04, for instance, to make slip-ons "fit".
   
   From my own experience, I do know (helped a friend) that the stock rear bracket (STAY, MUFFLER 5EL-21460-00-00) from an 02 (mine) goes into the same frame mounting holes as the 06 stock bracket, and that Cobra Slash Cut slip-ons for an 02 do fit on an 06 (his). This also indicates that the front pipe spacing and location toward the rear of the bike remains the same between the new and old versions. If you want to see the difference you can check out the on-line fiche here: http://www.yamahasportscenter.com/fiche_select.asp - and look at the 05 Classic - it will show both California and non-California.
   
   That muffler change may also affect the availability of full exhaust systems for 06's (US and world-wide). However, it is my understanding that the exhaust port location and configuration has NOT changed, the frame mounting location, etc for the rear exhaust bracket remains unchanged (see experience above), and most (if not all) full systems include their own brackets -- all seems to point up the fact that older model full systems will fit the 06's!.

    

   Forum members having been checking this out - and all have found the '06 models can be fitted with pipes, slip-ons marketed for prior years - as noted above.  Risk appears to be nearly, if no exactly, zero!

              

                       . . . SilverBack

    

   Here's a Pix of both new and old style brackets (click pic to enlarge):

   

5. Slip-Ons

    

   1. No info, yet

    

6. Full Pipes (updated 12/27/06)

    

   1. Discussion

      Installing a New Exhaust system - Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine

       

   2. Ratings

      Exhaust Reviews (by Riders!)  http://www.vstar.ca/

       

   3. Retention of Stock Rear Elbow   (updated 12/27/06)

       

      From SilverBack: Many replacement pipes retain the stock rear exhaust elbow - which some consider "ugly" (rightfully so, IMHO). When I added the cobra 2 into 1 exhaust, I hated the idea of leaving on that elbow in place while adding all that beautiful chrome - I was faced with two alternatives:

      1. Leave the stock elbow, and get used to it - was advised by a member that only I would ever see it - no real friends would ever even look at or notice it - this turned out to be true and even picky "moi" does not notice it now

      2. Get a Cerami-Chrome replacement elbow form PCS:  http://www.pacificcoaststar.com/pcs/1100_Monster.htm

          picture is at: http://www.pacificcoaststar.com/pcs/images/More/1100_Rear_Cylinder_Elbows.jpg

7. 2-into-1 (updated 1/23/06)

    

   1. Performance Advantage

      - See chart under  Performance Compared in Performance, Tuning

       

   2. DIY - 2 into 1

       

      Drostar (Drostar100):

      Sampson/shogun head pipes and a Vance & Hines "Y" pipe is the best way I've seen to make your own 2-1.

       

   3. Vendors

       

      Discussion Thread - Which 2 into 1 is Best?

      Discussion Thread (ISRA)

    

    

8. Baffles & Torque cones

    

   1. General Info:

       

      What are baffles for?
      Baffles are generally used to reduce the sound level of the exhaust note. The secondary value of baffles is that they help create back pressure in the exhaust system. Back pressure helps the engine create torque. The more narrow the baffle, the more back pressure, therefore the higher torque value. Very high performance (stroker) engines may not require exhaust back pressure restrictions created by baffles.

       

      What are torque cones for?
      Torque cones are used to create a higher velocity of exhaust flow in the exhaust pipe. This higher velocity generates an increase of torque from the engine. There are two other performance benefits gained from the use of torque cones. One is the creation of velocity, which actually scavenges the exhaust from the exhaust port more efficiently. This assists in evacuating gasses from the engine. The other benefit is that the torque cones help create an anti-reversion effect. This eliminates the tendency for spent gases to be sucked back into the combustion chamber during the engine's intake stroke. The value of anti-reversion is a cleaner air fuel burn during combustion and a cooler running engine.

       

   2. Back Pressure vs. Performance (updated 1/8/06)

       

      Summary:

      If you don't have back pressure, you are losing torque and thus horsepower (value computed from torque, rpm and a constant)

      You should use either, baffles, torque cones, or the popsicle back pressure device - see next item.

      (Will add more here later, but this summary tells it all!

       

   3. "Lollipop" back pressure device

       

      Exhaust Systems - Lollipop Can be constructed for less than $5 from hardware store parts.

       

      Discussion:  (SilverBack)

      -- This device will allow you to run straight / drag pipes without baffling, and still provide back pressure to help increase torque

          (and thus horsepower which is calculated from torque, rpm and a constant, so I have been told)

      -- The link above takes you to how-to and testing results which verify the performance gains in HP and torque.

       

      -- This device appears to be the central piece in the Big City Thunder Baffle (BCT) (about $90) which is an approx. 4" long tube with a slight restriction in the center, and on which a close cousin of the "lollipop" is mounted.

      -- Personally, using the seat-of-pants-dyno, I could detect no difference between the $5 "lollipop" and the $90 BCT.  Nor was there any appreciable difference in sound volume or quality.  (Note: had planned to do real dyno test, but decided on more chrome, instead.  May still do it later)

      -- I would recommend you try the "lollipop" before you order the BCT, and see if it will meet your needs.

       

9. See also: AIS Removal

    

10. "Painting" Pipes Black  (updated 3/15/06)

     

    Excellent Forum Thread - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=12409.1

     

11. Dual Pipes     (updated 02/15/07)

     

    turk1938 made these Dual Pipes - check out his approach

     

    Forum Thread - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=11896.24

     

12. DIY Thunder Baffle   (updated 02/24/07)

     

    Courtesy of Norm (NORM277) - Instructions on making your own "My City Thunder Baffle"

     

13. Cobra 2-into-1 (Top Performance Pipe)  (updated 03/08/07)

     

    The two styles of the Cobra 2 into 1 pipe appears to be the leader among both the 2 into 2 and 2 into 1 pipes for its ability to make the most HP and Torque - and it has nice muscular sound also.

     

    Those riders who have ridden their machines with the pipes stock and with the baffle plate having a 1 1/2 inch hole drilled in the center report two positive effects of the drilled baffle;: More HP and Torque; and a much improved sound.

     

    Comments:

     

    mitchelguita:

     

    I have the hole drilled into the baffle on my Cobra 2 into 1. At first I was reluctance but at the suggestion of raymajors I did it and I'm glad I did.

     

    I took a 1 1/2 inch drill saw and in the middle of the baffle plate drilled a hole. There were a couple of reasons.  First, in case I ever want to use a Dyno to tune the engine where you will need to access both pipes for the AFR probe (and not use the combined muffler). The second was the sound -- the Cobra's weren't loud enough for me and I was looking for a sound, I started with a 1/2 hole and moved up to a 1 hole and then the 1&1/2 hole and got the sound I liked.

     

    I gave up a little low end grunt for better high end breathing, as lot of the riding I do is at 70. You could still have both by drilling the hole and then welding in a seat and a screw in plug to seal it off.  As for the sound, it sounds like a small block 327 Chevy two bolt main with a 4 barrel carb with a 2 into 1 exhaust.

     

    twodogsfing:

     

    The difference between a drilled and non drilled baffle with the Cobra 2 into 1 pipe and the Triple X2 cams is incredible ! Those cams make the engine need to breath.

     

    I've gone back and forth between a stock baffle and my drilled baffle ( 1 1/2" hole ) and I would not have it any other way than drilled. The loss of low end is very minimal compared to the huge gain in power from the lower mid range on up you get after drilling. The X2s are snappy on the low end anyways.

     

    When I first switched from my HK 2 into 1 to the Cobra, I wasn't really impressed. Joe Conway told me to drill the baffle and MAN ! did that make a world of difference.

     

14. Exhaust Wrap  (updated 01/13/08)

    Source: http://www.jpcycles.com/ProductDetail.aspx?PID=450-306&cs=All

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