>> Last Updated: 08/16/2008 06:50 PM Central Time <<

4. Maintenance                (Back to Topics)

Cleaning   Brakes   Brake Bleed  Brake Switch  Brake Chrome  Brake Syst Maint  Rear Brake Master Cylinder Relocation   Carbs  Clutch  Cable Lube Fasteners: Bolts, Screws, Nuts, Caps Jacks & Stands   Lubrication Lube Drive Shaft  Plugs  Rust Remove/Repair  Supplies/Fluids   Tools   Valves  Problem Shifting  Drive Train Problems  Removable Rivets   Engine Retiming

  1. Oil Changes

    (see that topic)

  2. Cleaning Your Bike

     

    1. Overall  (updated 8/19/06)

      This is potentially a controversial area - everyone has their favorite "chemicals", tools, and approach. What follows is input from several of the forum riders and bike "showers" - just to give you all a place to start.

       

      1. Motorcycle Consumer News 02/06 Issue:

         

        They highly recommend Mr. Moto Products Super Concentrated Wash.  Truly is spray on, rinse off, no rubbing. Cleans off "ride in the rain" road film in a snap. Smells good. works good. priced right - $8.32/quart container with sprayer in some bike shops. Also available from their web site: http://www.mrmotoproducts.com/motowash.html?mgiToken=0C15B7C818437C58582 (Silverback: I'll give it a try as soon as I get some locally)

         

      2. LowPhat:

         

        First of all, I do not use soap and water to wash my bike unless it's really filthy, like after being caught in rain, going thru mud, etc... Instead, I use the Meguiar's Quick Detailer on just about the entire bike. It really keeps the paint shiny in between waxings. I use Meguiar's Gold Class paste to wax the body parts about once every 3 months depending on how often I'm riding and if I'm showing it. And on the chrome, I use Turtle Wax Chrome Polish.

         

        I definitely understand the concern about ride dust, and rightfully so; however, the quick detailer is perfect for fine dust and even bugs. I'm not saying rinsing is bad, but that alone is deceiving because it will not remove all of the dust. It is the positively charged ions that actually allow dust particles to cling to our vehicles.

        First I use these heavy duty paper towel-like wipes and soak them liberally with quick detailer to first remove dust, bugs etc... and pretty much just lightly cover the entire bike in sections at a time. Then I'll take a clean soft towel and wipe it down to a nice shine. the quick detailer actually puts a very light coating of wax on.

        Remember, I wax my bike about every quarter with the gold class. a lot of soaps not specifically intended for vehicles may strip wax and leave the clear coat dry. Do you ever see circular scratch-like marks especially on the dark part of your tank when the sun is shining directly on it? This is because the clear coat is similar to skin and needs wax to keep it conditioned and to also fill in the microscopic pores so that it has that just waxed shine to it.Oh yeah, if a spot is missed, it just looks like water spots and can easily be wiped off

         

      3. SilverBack:

        Dirty Bike Clean:  I use a low powered power washer on lowest pressure setting to carefully wet down the bike and clean the bulk of the junk off (taking care to avoid delicate & electrical areas). then I spritz on a light spray of Hondabrite (made by S100) and let it sit to loosen the dirt and road film (but not too long as it dries fast and you don't want that). Then I go over the bike with the power washer (low pressure, standing back a ways) , removing the grime, etc.  Then I break out my electric leaf blower and blow the machine dry (does a nice job and fast, too!). I then take a clean micro-fiber cloth (12" square from Wally World) and wipe down all the surfaces - to get that last little bit off and adds a hell of a shine to the chrome.  Sometimes an especially dirty spot takes a second shot of the HondaBrite, but in most cases a little extra spray with the washer on the first pass gets the job done.  Usually, I can go through my whole routine in less than an hour - often 45 minutes!

        Note: HondaBrite goes for about $12 a quart, so go sparingly.  Also: I have recently been talking to the detailers and cleanup guys at dealerships, and they like Liquid Performance Street Bike Wash better than the Hondabrite - and it's only  $10/quart. will try that when I run out of f the other.

        Two hard things to clean: Spokes and Hubs (inside the spokes) -- I find that the approach above works very well in improving both.  I had been very, very careful to never touch any of the hub surfaces at all - better an evenly dirty hub  than one smudged so that it is obvious it is dirty.  I like what I saw with the first 2 uses of my procedure above.  It returned them to like-new condition.  I got the bike on the lift outside on the drive, so I can spin the wheels to get at all sides, and all nooks and crannies. Also, lambs wool paint-ball barrel cleaners work really well at getting all the crannies between the spokes - any paint-ball store has them.

        After Ride Cleanup: In between major cleanups, I use cotton terry squares and aerosol Spray Cleaner & Polish (either ProHonda or MotorcysleStuff) -- to get the bugs off the shield and the rest of the front side and mirrors, and then to do a quick application over the entire bike. Use another terry rag to wipe it down, and then go over it all with a Wally World micro-fiber cloth -  really makes the chrome shine!

        I spent about 3 hours the other day with the aerosol cleaner, rags, tooth brushes, paint stirrers (thin and flat and rigid) -- and totally cleaned (for the first time in 50,000 miles) all the cooling fins on the cylinders - came out looking real nice - except for the pebble dings on the front cylinder). My spray, spritz, spray and blow technique looks like it is keeping them looking real good - so that 3 hour chore may have been a one time only job. (only wish I had tried the spray, spritz, spray, blow-dry approach on the fin grime first - might have saved all that effort.)

        Tools I use:

        1.5 inch poly paint brush - 60% of the bristles cut o--in an arc
        -- combination of stabbing and stroking motion - ideal for:
        -- spoke ends at the rim
        -- all the recessed bolt heads on the chrome all over
        -- behind all the crannies - behind the AIS pipes, etc

        Lambs wool paint ball marker barrel cleaner (buy @ PB stores) (they call them lambs dicks, grossly)
        -- 6-7 inch wooden dowel with 70% coverage on the end with lambs wool
        -- sold in pairs joined by rubber hose (so P'Ballers can fold and stick in pocket
        -- separate and use on rim between spokes, any place else you need small tool
        -- one dirty one, one clean one, wipe off with rag to keep cleaner

        Wooden shims, the cedar shingle type
        -- use knife to cut off the part less than 1/8 in thick - cut square
        -- wrap rag around and use to get into real narrow slots
        -- between cooling fins, behind the top of the starter, ORK, etc, up behind exhaust pipe to clean chrome bike parts

        Used soft, small tooth brushes - make excellent tools for carefully scrubbing the icky, stcky stuff all sorts of areas

         

      4. Others Folks' Inputs:

        mitchelguita:  I use Bike Brite. I buy the 64 oz refill for $11 from a local shop. I also have one of the bug sprayers from Home Depot. This way I don't have to keep pumping the trigger. South Florida is a dirty place for a bike. From lawe sprinkler to flash floods we have it all. I have found for that Bike Brite works the best. Spray it on, hose it off and blow it dry. Total time 20 minutes. Here the link;
        http://www.bikebrite.com/MotorcycleWash64OZRefill.htm

        golferklr:  just purchased  Mr. Clean AutoDry Carwash and  thought I would try it on my bike. I think that has to be the greatest thing ever invented. It cut the wash time about a third of the time. You don't even need a towel for drying. You put the soap and filters in the gun, you rinse, then to soap, you might need a sponge or soft rag to get some of the dirt loose, then change it to rinse again to get the soap off and then put it on the de-ionized filters to finish the rinse. When done you don't even need a towel to dry. I just did my bike today I let it air dry and can't find one water mark on my bike. The chrome come out sparking clean. The start kit cost about $20 for the gun, soap and filter. They make a kit for about $40 but your pay for a case and a wash mitten not worth it.

        Good Thread on cleaning: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=16354.1

         

      5. Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine Detailing Article

         

      6. Things to Avoid

         

        Dish Washing Liquid - wrong pH - strips wax

         

      7. Clean Burned On Junk Off the Pipes:

         

        -- Easy Off Oven Cleaner (Cold oven type) - CAREFULLY spray it on the pipes (avoid your paint!), let sit 5-10 minutes, wipe off. If needed, apply again.

        -- If you need to scrape - use a PLASTIC putty knife or a credit card (carefully - might need it to buy more goodies).

         

    2. Paint

       

    3. Chrome

       

    4. Pipes

       

    5. Pipes - burnt on stuff  See topic under Pipes

       

  3. Brakes 

     

    1. Rear Brake Master Cylinder Relocation  (Updated 09/13/07)

       

      How To - Created from thread Below

       

      Thread with pix on how to do it - thanks to JeffJ (jdjstar)

       

    2. Source for Brake Pads (updated 3/14/06)

       

      This link is broken - if anyone can find these folks - let me know -  I tried and failed


      I buy mine at Kiernan -- http://catalog.kiernanracing.com/viewProduct.cfm?item_id=690783 
      Yamaha XV1100 V-Star 99-05 All Models, EBC HH Brake pads Complete Set
      Two sets for the front and one set for the rear. Price $65.95 for all three sets!

       

    3. Motorcycle Brake Inspection & Service (updated 1/4/06)

      Motorcycle Brake Inspection & Service Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine

    4. Brake Rotor Wear Levels

       

      DaddoCFL:

      The discs on this bike don’t really have wear indicators. The front rotors are 5mm. when new with a replacement wear limit of 4.5mm.
      The rear rotor is 6mm. out of the box with a wear replacement limit of 5.5mm.
      It was not unreasonable to assume that a visual wear indicator be cast into the rotors, but a technician will always go by the actual disc thickness.

       

    5. Brake System -- Preventative Maintenance. - DaddoCF (added 1/16/06)

      Why would you want to replace the fluid in your motorcycle’s braking system at least once a year?

      Brake fluid has an affinity for moisture. That is to say, that it will readily absorb water vapor from the air (hygroscopic). As the percentage of water in your brake fluid increases over time, the potential for serious problems in the performance of your brakes increase as well. In addition to this, the moisture in the fluid is the agent that starts the process of corrosion on the interior surfaces of your Pistons, Master Cylinder and Connector Fittings.

      Now I understand that no one enjoys the prospect of bleeding brakes, let alone replacing all of the fluid in both the front and rear systems. Sure it can be a nasty, messy job that at times will allow you to run through your vocabulary of descriptive terms that we don’t use around children or ladies. But, there is an easy and almost painless way to put this important maintenance job behind you.

      The use of a vacuum pump brake bleeding system will make your life a lot easier when it comes to bleeding your brake lines, or with respect to this project, purging the system and completely replacing the old fluid. There are a lot of low cost vacuum pump systems available. I use a Mityvac system ($25 buckos from AutoZone, although they are available through almost any auto supply house, including sources like Harbor freight). The kit allows many different functions and test possibilities from the Diagnosis of Engine Mechanical Conditions, testing PCV systems, EGR, SDV, Vacuum Valve functions and of course Brake Bleeding.

      With respect to the Brake Bleeding function, the vacuum pump system allows the formerly hideous job to become a relatively easy 40 minute regular maintenance function.

      Most of these kits contain a hand pump with attached vacuum gauge, a container to accept the used brake fluid (this container is attached to the pump on some models and separate and connected via a length of plastic tubing on others), several lengths of clear plastic tubing, an assortment of various connectors which will facilitate the various tests that the unit is capable of.

      The unit functions as a brake bleeder by creating a vacuum inside the empty fluid container, which will draw fluid from the brake bleeder valve through an attached length of the plastic tubing.

      Process:

      1. Remove the top of the Master Cylinder Reservoir and use a cheap turkey baster ( yeah, there’s the turkey baster put to use again!) to remove as much of the old brake fluid as you can. Then refill the reservoir with fresh fluid. Place the top back onto the reservoir loosely to allow refilling as needed. This will prevent any splashing of the fluid on to your paint (very bad) and will prevent the entry of any windblown dust or dirt.

      2. With the pump assembled according to the manufacturer’s directions, select a clear hose that will fit snugly over the end of the bleeder valve of the brake caliper piston’s bleeding valve (You will need to do this twice on an 1100’s twin front calipers).

      3. Using the pump, create a vacuum inside the fluid container and the clear hoses. If the vacuum starts to drop after a few seconds, you may have an air leak. Make sure that the tubing connection at the valve is clean and free of any grit, or you may need to grease the threads or sealing flange of your receptacle container.

      4. With a working vacuum in the kit (about 8 to 15 lbs.), crack the valve open until you notice the old fluid coming out of the brake system. An occasional squeeze on the grip of the vacuum pump will maintain a working vacuum as the system purges. From time to time during the process, close the valve and check the fluid level in the reservoir, You don’t want to let the fluid drain down to the bottom as you will then suck air into the top of the system. If you have help while you are doing this, a second person can monitor the fluid level in the Master Cylinder for you and from time to time, add additional fluid as needed during the process.

      5. There is no 5. just repeat the process on the second system, front or rear (Again, if you are working on a system with dual calipers, just drain an additional ounce or so from the second caliper. This will purge all of the fluid in that branch of the line from the “T”.

      The vacuum bleeding method also makes short work of the occasional brake bleed as the continuous draw of fluid tends to do a more efficient job of removing small bubbles from the lines.

      Now. . . Clean up and go for a ride!
       

    6. Bleeding  (updated 04/08/08)

       

      How To Bleed Brakes from Steve Schneider - CycleForay.com  - Get it here - his site is down

       

      Speed Bleeders - link courtesy of Hawqstar - http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Equipment/Speed_Bleeder.htm

       

       Speed Bleeders: Size is: M8 X 1.25  rear (1 needed) and M7 X 1.25 front (2 needed)  CORRECTED

       

      Another Bleeding Technique - Push Fluid UP! - greenhell07 posted:

      When I was installing my Apes I had to bleed the front brakes as well.  Having a second pair of hands is a big help (wife, buddy etc).

       

      A local shop gave me the tip. His explanation was this: Since air rises in the line you're giving it a boost by forcing the air to rise to the top of the master cylinder instead of trying to pull the air down. That's why it is such a pain in the AIS trying to suck the air down and out of the line.

      1. Take the master cylinder cover off so you can see the fluid.
      2. Get a large syringe with some clear tubing. About 5-6" would be good
      3. Attach clear tubing to the bleeder
      4. Fill syringe with brake fluid
      5. Gently push on syringe as you force the brake fluid in.

      You should have seen the air bubbles come popping out the top
      For me, bleeding the line took about 20 minutes. Not the hour or longer others have reported.

       

      Where to get large Syringe?

      "I went to Walgreens and they gave me the two largest syringes they had. They were big but not as big as I'd like have had."

      "I had to go to Tractor Supply for a couple of items, and looked in the animal vaccination area and they carry some pretty big syringes that look like they would do the job. Real cheap too."

       

      Metric Magic (TimB1007) - Simple, easy, cost effective, safe, one person brake bleeding:

      I bleed my brake lines with a 10' length of clear tubing with loops in it & suck the air out, the brake fluid that exits will be trapped in the bottom of the loops. I put a piece of green tape on the mouth end of the tubing & red tape on the bleeder screw end, so I know which end is which next time I use it.  Just be sure and keep the reservoir filled.

       

      - Another trick - if the front brakes feel spongy after a bleed, then pull the lever back tight, tie it back and leave it overnight - works like a charm

       

      SilverBack (AGBack)

      Tim's approach works, but  . . . When I replaced my front master cylinder, it took forever to suck down all the brake fluid to get the air bubbles to start really coming out the bottom at the bleeders.

       

      First Issue: Prior service (before I started DIY) resulted in bleeder valves being over tightened, and therefore every loose once they were barely cracked open. Symptoms - barely cracked open and sucking on the line resulted in a ton of air bubbles. Plus they felt very loose.  Tried using silicone based brake system grease, but it only worked a little while - the bleeders were that loose!  Final solution was to remove each bleeder, wrap two layers of white Teflon pipe joint tape around the fitting and replacing - worked like a champ.

       

      Second Issue:  Be patient, even if you don't have the problems with loose fittings, it takes forever to suck out all the fluid in those lines.

       

      Third issue:  once you start getting bubbles to appear and then taper off - you need to bleed all the banjo bolts - the one at the master cylinder, both the ones at the brake line split, and then both the ones at the calipers.  Before doing each one, give it a couple of raps with the handle of a screw drive - to jar the bubble loose.  Also, order is important, start at the top and work your way from highest (physically) to lowest, all the way down to the calipers.  When they all run with no bubbles, start at the top and do it all over again, closing out with a little more line bleed.  then you are done.

       

      A neat trick when replacing the master cylinder - thanks to Jeff Leitner (lowrider) - best thing you can do to help yourself is to bench bleed the master cylinder.  Fill it with fluid, use a dowel to work the lever plunger and work out all the air, before you put it on the bike. You know you are close when you can cover the hole with your thumb and it stops spitting air and starts spiting fluid. Takes a long time, so be patient.  Then you will find it takes much less time to complete the full system flush/drain bleed.

       

      Bleeding with Vacuum Pump - Larry (LMCFL)

       

      The use of a vacuum pump brake bleeding system will make your life a lot easier when it comes to bleeding your brake lines, or with respect to this project, purging the system and completely replacing the old fluid. There are a lot of low cost vacuum pump systems available. I use a Mityvac system ($25 buckos from AutoZone. Although they are available through almost any auto supply house, including sources like Harbor freight). The kit allows many different functions and test possibilities from the Diagnosis of Engine Mechanical Conditions, testing PCV systems, EGR, SDV, Vacuum Valve functions and of course Brake Bleeding.

      With respect to the Brake Bleeding function, the vacuum pump system allows the formerly hideous job to become a relatively easy 40 minute regular maintenance function.

      Most of these kits contain a hand pump with attached vacuum gauge, a container to accept the used brake fluid (this container is attached to the pump on some models and separate and connected via a length of plastic tubing on others), several lengths of clear plastic tubing, an assortment of various connectors which will facilitate the various tests that the unit is capable of.

      The unit functions as a brake bleeder by creating a vacuum inside the empty fluid container, which will draw fluid from the brake bleeder valve through an attached length of the plastic tubing.

      Process:

      1. Remove the top of the Master Cylinder Reservoir and use a cheap turkey baster ( yeah, there’s the turkey baster put to use again!) to remove as much of the old brake fluid as you can. Then refill the reservoir with fresh fluid. Place the top back onto the reservoir loosely to allow refilling as needed. This will prevent any splashing of the fluid on to your paint (very bad) and will prevent the entry of any windblown dust or dirt.

      2. With the pump assembled according to the manufacturer’s directions, select a clear hose that will fit snugly over the end of the bleeder valve of the brake caliper piston’s bleeding valve (You will need to do this twice on an 1100’s twin front calipers).

      3. Using the pump, create a vacuum inside the fluid container and the clear hoses. If the vacuum starts to drop after a few seconds, you may have an air leak. Make sure that the tubing connection at the valve is clean and free of any grit, or you may need to grease the threads or sealing flange of your receptacle container.

      4. With a working vacuum in the kit (about 8 to 15 lbs.), crack the valve open until you notice the old fluid coming out of the brake system. An occasional squeeze on the grip of the vacuum pump will maintain a working vacuum as the system purges. From time to time during the process, close the valve and check the fluid level in the reservoir, You don’t want to let the fluid down to the bottom as you will then suck air into the top of the system. If you have help while you are doing this, a second person can monitor the fluid level in the Master Cylinder for you and from time to time, add additional fluid as needed during the process.

      5. There is no 5. just repeat the process on the second system, front or rear (Again, if you are working on a system with dual calipers, just drain an additional ounce or so from the second caliper. This will purge all of the fluid in that branch of the line from the "T".

      The vacuum bleeding method also makes short work of the occasional brake bleed as the continuous draw of fluid tends to do a more efficient job of removing small bubbles from the lines.

       

       

    7. Brake Switch Conversion   (Updated 05/18/07)

       

      Banjo Switch - Captured from CycleForay.com  - Instruction Sheet

       

      Banjo Switch Information - M10-1.25 thread

       

      Excellent How-To Thread -- courtesy of jdjstar

       

      The Next Step - Use on Front Brakes - Eliminate 2 Wires From Bars  (added 05/18/07)

       

      From: ROGUE50:  Used the pressure switch on the front. Replaced the banjo bolt on the "T" fitting under the bottom tree with the pressure switch and wired back under the tank. Really great if you are running your wires inside the bars -- as it eliminates 2 wires, and gets rid of little wires hanging out at the brake lever.

       

    8. Chrome Banjo Bolts, Alum. Washers  (Updated 12/01/06)

       

      Our own Tim Bonderant - Metric Magic - Post on His Parts Thread or Email Him  or Go to His Web Site Parts Request Form

       

      http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FK003D008B
      http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=49005
       

  4. Clutch  (updated 07/15/08)

     

    1. Adjusting - Engine End of Cable

       

      If it feels like your clutch is slipping (or just as part of overall tune-up)"

      -- Loosen the adjustment at the clutch lever.
      -- Remove:
           - Left Side Cover
           - Clutch Adjusting Cover
      -- Loosen the locknut
      -- Turn the adjusting screw until it is lightly seated
      -- Turn the adjusting screw out 1/4 of a turn
      -- Check the clutch cable free play and adjust (at the bar end) as necessary)

       

    2. Adjusting/Removal - Lever End of Cable

      Disconnecting it from the clutch lever. Pull the little rubber boot back off of the adjusting nut, unlock the jam nut and screw it all the way back on the adjuster as far as you can. Now align the slot in the adjusting nut with the slot in the jam nut. Cable should have a ton of free play now. Now just swing the cable out of the adjuster and then out of the clutch lever. There is a slot in the lever underneath for removing the cable. twodogsfing

       

      3.

    3. Upgrading to Barrett SR-6 - 64 Pound Clutch Spring/Plate  (updated 11/27/06)

       

      Increasing the power of the bike by a combinations of increased air and fuel flow (pods and jetting) and the conversion to a more performance oriented cam can result in a slipping clutch, and it is recommended that this condition be cured by upgrading the clutch spring assembly - and perhaps replacing all the frictions and steel clutch plates at the same time (you have it open, so do it all?). 

       

      S&S Custom Cycle is the best source of the SR-6 64 pound clutch upgrade kit - get it at:

              http://www.sscustomcycle.com/products/engine/v-star1100.shtml

       

      The instructions that come with the kit are do the job. The picture below shows the SR-6 mounted and ready for "wrapup".

       

          click for larger image

       

      From SilverBack (AGBack):  (updated 08/28/07)

      Report on changing the clutch to Barnet 64# clutch, and with all new frictions and steels (plates).

       

      Front to back, this is about a 1.5 to 2.0 hour job - but will will want to set aside more time - the tendency once you have the pipes off is to clean up all the parts that you normally cannot get to, change your ORK lines to bigger ones, change your oil, etc, etc.

       

      Special items required (beyond your normal V*Star 1100 tool set):

       

      -- Clymer's or other manual (Yamaha shop manual might do in a pinch but Clymer's much, much better!)

      -- The clutch upgrade kit -- and steels and frictions if you need them (based on the 74,000 miles on my ride,

          I decided, as long as I had the case open to do the clutch, I'd replace the wearable parts)

      -- The right side case gasket

      -- Whatever exhaust gaskets you need to replace when you drop the exhaust and put it back.

      -- Permatex (or other brand) Gasket Remover - a must!

      -- Plastic putty knife or similar plastic scraper

      -- Hi-temp sealant to treat several of the bolts when they are put back - to prevent oil leak/seep

           (I used copper Hi-Temp RTV, had it from when I did the AIS removal, and also use it to hold

               the $%^#$ front exhaust gasket in place when replacing pipes.)

      -- Oil to fill crankcase once done (and filter too, if needed)

      -- Torque wrench as specified in the manual

       

      Doing the Job:

       

      The major sequence of steps:

      -- Drain the oil

      -- Open the case

      -- Start the process of cleaning off the stuck gasket (see note below)

             - this will go on during the entire process, with you coming back

               to gasket removal every 10 minutes until it is done

      -- Remove all the old parts

      -- Put in the new parts in the reverse order of removal

      -- Be sure to oil the new frictions and plates as they go in

            - and also lube the rest of the parts per the manual

      -- Finish gasket removal - finally

      -- Put the old "dowels" into the engine holes - they hold the gasket during install

      -- Put on the gasket and then the cover

      -- Replace the bolts, applying sealant per Clymer's (and note below)

      -- Replace the oil filter/ORK interface

      -- Replace the oil.

      -- Adjust the left side lower clutch adjustment - per the shop manual - must do this

      -- Adjust the clutch bar end free play - per the manual

       

       

      Basically -- follow the instructions in the Clymer's manual, with the following added notes:

       

      The bolts in the case and the oil filter (and/or ORK interface) are of various lengths, so it is key to keep track which bolt goes where. I marked one bolt location as #1 on the case diagram in the manual, removed that bolt and placed it on a folded rag (body allowed indents for each bolt) in the leftmost position, then removed the next bolt going clockwise from #1 and put it to the right of #1, etc.

       

      When you remove the oil filter/ORK interface - capture the small O-ring from the bottom right bolt and replace it on reinstall.

       

      When you remove the cover, there are two "dowels" (small hollow cylinders) that most likely will stick in the cover - remove them carefully and set iwth the bolts - so they are out of the way of the gasket removal process.

       

      The most common mistake when taking out the old pressure plate is that a flat washer sometimes sticks to the back of it. This must be put back behind the new pressure plate on the install. (Thanks, Shane of SS Custom Cycle)

       

      Gasket removal - is a pain - the gasket is hard and will stick tenaciously - and you want to be careful NOT to use force to get it off - you need to protect the machined surfaces of the case and the cover.  Use a plastic putty knife to remove all the loose parts of the gasket from the case and the cover.  Carefully spray the remaining gasket/adhesive spots with the Gasket Remover.  Let it sit for 10 minutes, then carefully scrape of what you can - and be sure to scrape of the softened top layer of the very hard gasket.  Repeat until it all comes off - might take 5 or 6 passes, but it will come off. The secret is the multiple passes and scraping off the hard, stuck gasket a layer at a time as it gets softened.  This is why, above, I say to start the process as soon as the cover is off - so you can work in parallel on the gasket and the rest of the stuff.

       

      The shop manual will instruct you to put the sealant on two of the bolts (they obviously had sealer on when they came out) - but experience of other folks indicates potential for oil leak if you do not do the next one clockwise also, making it 3 sealed bolts. (worked for me!).

       

      When it comes time to install the gasket, place the two "dowels" in their holes on the engine side, then place the new gasket over the dowels - which hold it in place with all the holes aligned - so you can put on the cover and install the bolts - don't forget 3 need to be sealed.

       

  5. Cable Lubrication (updated 06/26/08)

    From: Daddo (DaddoCFL)

    The control cable sheath lining is of a Teflon or similar plastic that is designed to resist friction. The stories of it being eaten up by cable lubricant are just vapor as far as Yamaha and I are concerned. After all, Yamaha reminds us that lubricating the cables is part of our regular maintenance. I pressure lubricate my stock cables about every 60 to 90 days (every other oil and filter change).

    I use a simple Cable Oiler that clamps on to the end of my throttle and clutch cables. I also lube the throttle advance/enricher/choke (or whatever the popular name for it today is) cable. The one I have is similar to this offering from J&P Cycles

    http://www.jpcycles.com/search.aspx?search=Cable+Lube+tool 

    I also favor PJ1 Cable lube for the job. It comes with a short plastic tube that mates with the input orifice on the Cable Oiler.

    http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=A213139D-8155-48FF-B03B-A26756B359B7&search=cable%20lube&store=All&page=1

     

    I always preferred to lube my throttle cables from the bottom up using a PJ-1 Cable oiling tool.  The reason for this is the P.I.T.A. in trying to attach the tool at the bar end controls.

    The only caution that I would offer is to place a shop rag at the other end of the cables when you are pressure lubricating as the pressurized lubricant will immediately fill every space within the tube, like whipped cream, and will of course come out the other end. The foam dissipates leaving every surface completely coated with lubricant.

    If you don’t ride in the rain very often, every six months would be more then enough. Here in Central Florida, it seems as though getting caught in an almost daily Toad Strangler is part of my riding ritual.

     

    Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine Cable Lube Article

  6. Lubrication   (updated 08/16/08)

     

    1. Oil Change - See Oil

       

    2. Swing Arm - Link Lube - Instruction sheet - from EIEshuNut

       

    3. Drive Shaft Lubrication

       

      Daddo (DaddoCFL):

       

      Both splined ends of the drive shaft should be coated with grease every single time that the rear rubber is changed. If there is a problem it is because Yamaha has assumed too much and failed to add that as a maintenance step for owners. Their owner’s manual makes the assumption that you will only go to a dealer to have your wheels removed.

      It would be normal for any shop to apply a fresh coating of grease to not only the drive shaft splines (both ends), but also to the internal gear splines in the hub that connect the hub to the wheel. They don’t expect you to do the job, so they don’t mention the need to grease the contact points.

       

      Metric Magic (TimB1007)

       

      The rear portion of the shaft is lubed with the final drive lube, so there is no need to pull the shaft from the final drive unit to lube that portion.

       

      Ray Major

       

      Here's Rays cut at lubing the back end - based on his write-up - edited By Silverback for space considerations:

       

      Caution - can be dangerous - proceed at your own risk, etc, etc, etc

       

      1. Drain the final drive oil -- avoids oil spilling, & should be changed regularly anyway. Leave the bike in gear. Remove exhaust from the rear to gain clearance/access.

      2. Remove rear muffler mount, brake line clamp, remove brake caliper, put wood spacer between pads in case someone hits pedal., hang caliper out of the way with wire/rope/zip-tie, remove caliper support bolt.

      3. Remove axle nut, 2 final drive bolts just in front of axle nut - left side

       

      3. Remove right side axle clamp blots - note: arrow on clamp must be reinstalled up!

      4. Slide wheel assembly rearward until it just rests on lip of swing arm - see pix below

                 

      5. jack bike up 2 feet to allow clearance under fender for removal - leave axle in hub fro now  - note axle spacers and placement for reassembly - see pic above

      6. Support wheel on blocks to avoid any pressing on disc -- Using the axle as a lever, wriggle the hub free of the wheel. See above for what it looks like removed. "As you can see on my 10 month old 05, there was plenty of fresh grease. Note, however, there is no proper seal to hold this grease in if over greased, or stop water/mud/snow washing the grease away as it makes its way into the hub – only an O Ring. If you ride in all weather, I would regrease this hub every 12 months to be sure." Note the spacer on top of the drive in the picture which sits inside the hub. Also unless you want oil dripping all over the ground, keep the vent upright.


           

      7. Above, hold the final drive securely in a vise using sleeves to protect paint. Undo cap nuts at the front of the drive while holding the hub (careful – sharp edges). Grasp the shaft in one hand, the drive in the other, and pull apart - takes a bit of effort. A 2nd set of hands would help.  Next pic is after cleanup. The nose of the hub stays on the shaft - out of the picture to the right - can be removed via a circle clip on the front of the shaft. To the right of the spline is the oil seal that stops final drive oil leaking out of the unit.

      8. Above -  front of the drive unit where the driveshaft slides in. "I’ve seen this dry as a bone – mine was well greased with a small amount of rear axle oil mixed in. If you hold the drive up splines pointed down, oil from the drive will dribble from the oil filled sealed drive into the splines area, suggesting it should get some oil provided the rear axle is filled up. I greased mine well. Also note the lack of sealant around the outside of the hub from new. While this hub is not designed to be sealed – there is a drain at bottom in case seals fail – I would suggest some sealer will minimize water dribbling into the top of the hub and onto these splines, causing rust."

      9. After cleaning and re-greasing (Moly-based anti-seize grease - see Note below), reassemble with some sealant between the nose and drive, and some Locktite on the cap nuts. The final drive is now complete.

       

      10. The left photo above shows the splines inside a rubber boot, looking from the rear of the bike forward,  where the driveshaft slides into the uni-joint/gearbox. The boot is extremely difficult to remove, and must be pried out with considerable force. (I ended up removing the plastic cover on the left side for room,-- a 90 minute job to be avoided.) The right photo above shows the rubber boot removed. Clean out the old grease, fill with new.
      11. . Reassemble and tighten in the order specified in the manual. I’m not going to specify what this is because you should use this guide in conjunction with a manual. Use Locktite on the hub mounting bolts, axle nut and brake caliper bolts. Torque all bolts as per the manual. Refill or check the rear axle oil level before riding

       

      Note: from BioHazard (Vrated)

      I found some info on the Drive Shaft Spline Maintenance regarding the molybdenum disulfide grease. I was trying to find some or something like it. Even went to the Yamaha dealer and guess what, they didn't know what it was. So I did a little research and here is the info.

      http://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/maint/spline/spline.html

      Honda Moly 60 paste, pn 08734-0001 at your Honda dealer,

      Cut and past from above link:  While Mobile Synth lube is okay and appears to match the slight hint of lube used by the factory, Honda Moly 60 Paste is the preferred choice. For years Gold Wing riders have known how great this product is. Many non-Honda shops use it too. The high moly content means that it resists the high temperatures and pressures to which drive line components are subjected. It's less likely to flow away from the areas needing protection; even when stressed under extreme use. Many a Wingster has found their splines crumble to dust if neglected. If Honda Moly 60 can hold up under the stress of a fully-loaded Wing, (2-up, pulling an overloaded trailer), then it should be okay for the FJR1300. I couldn't find any Honda Moly 60 paste prior to the first tire change, so used the Mobile 1 that was on hand. Since then I have found and bought some and use it instead.

      More info: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Shaft.html

       



       

  7. Jacks, Stands

     

    1. Lifts/Jacks/Stands

       

    2. Lift MODs for V Star (updated 2/09/06)

       

      1. To "Fix" a standard motorcycle lift to fit the un-flat bottom of the V*Star 1100:

            Glue or bolt on

            -- Long 2x4 to fit across the back of the frame
            -- Short piece of 2x4 to fit under the front right side frame
            -- Short piece of wood around 3/4" thick to fit under left front frame

         

        Note from SilverBack:

         

        I used the above instructions - BUT -- my lift platform was only about 12 inches wide vs. 14 inch spread on the "frame "

        So . . .
        -- to compensate for the need for more width - I just made the pieces mentioned above long enough to get the width needed
        -- I added the width to the INSIDE edge of the lift platform, so the front side 2x4 piece could be bolted on thru the hole already in my lift platform (hole was to install the V-brackets I don't use).
        -- I bolted the back, long 2x4 piece to that lift arm also.
         

      2. DaddoCFL - Lift Adapter Pix & Patterns

      3. Craftsman MC Jack Setup - courtesy of Throttle (rcapozzi)   (Pictures)

    3. $20 Lift

      http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm

       

    4. Wheel Stands  (updated 02/18/07)

       

      Excellent thread on the topic of wheel stands - keeping the bike vetical

       

  8. Sparkplugs (updated 08/16/08

     

    All About Plugs: Install, Performance, Heat Range, etc:

    Article from NGK: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/installation.asp?nav=31300&country=US

     

    Reading your plugs:

    http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html (Click blue number for close-up)  from Jr. (emijun1983)

    http://norwestars.org/docs/plug2.pdf
     

     

    Most Popular Plug brands Appear to be:  Autolite and NGK    (updated 7/13/06)

     

    Here is a cross reference for NGK to Autolite plugs:


    NGK ==== AUTOLITE


    BPR7ES = 62 STOCK PLUG
    BPR6ES = 63
    BPR6ES = 64
    BPR5ES = 65 HOTTER PLUG

     

    Note:  The R means it is a resistor plug - not needed unless you have or plan to run electronics (commo) gear.

     

    Comments:

     

    There are only two things that separate one spark plug from the next; the price factor and the service interval, or as I like to tell people it's hard or soft. Soft plugs are made from copper and have a cost of anywhere from $1 to $2 US dollars with a typical service interval in a V* is about 1000 miles before you would notice a difference by replace with a new set. Hard plugs are made from platinum or iridium and have a cost of anywhere from $2 to $12 US dollars with a typical service interval in a V* is about 5,000 miles before you would notice a difference by replace with a new set.

    -- Please note I wrote that the service interval was before the rider would notice a difference while using the "SEAT OF THE PANTS DYNO". I believe the plugs will last longer. I use Autolite number AP64 which is a platinum which I purchase from WalMart at a cost of $3.95 US dollars for a set of two. ...mitchelguita

     

    I use NGK BP6ES - no resistor, one step Warmer plug ... TimB

     

    Read this: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp

     

    1. Watch Your Plugs - Jack Phelps

    2. Reading Plugs - Norwestar Article - http://norwestars.org/docs/plug2.pdf

    3. Servicing Spark Plugs - Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine

    4. Motorcycle Spark Plug Cross Reference Gadget

       

  9. Valve Adjustment (updated 10/01/07)

     

    Discussion: Engine should be cold when adjusting vavles. What does this mean? Cold means around 80 degrees.  After running, it means 2 to 4 hours of cool down - 4 to be safe!

     

    Factory spec:

    INTAKE VALVE:    0.07 to 0.12 M.M. SAE: 0.003 to 0.005 
    EXHAUST VALVE: 0.12 to 0.17 M.M. SAE: 0.005 to 0.007

     

    Middle of the road is the best way to set the valves - from the engine exper: joeconway

        For intakes: .10mm goes (and a .12mm is a no go)

        For exhaust: .12mm goes (and .15mm is a no go)
    -- Don't bother to try setting the valves on the tight side. Unless you are very good at it, chances are you will end up too tight. The difference between too tight and tight is so small it's very hard to do. This is especially hard to get correct on the intakes. If you set too tight the motor will run bad, and carb synch will be hard to do if not impossible to set correctly

     

    NOTE: One of the folks who has checked/adjusted his valves,  Leftyfriz, suggests: before you turn the crank clock wise, remove the spark plugs - makes things much easier!

     

    Daddo's Instructions on Valve Adjustment - Daddo with “Screenwriter” (Patrick Neilon) who took the series of excellent photos

     

    Suggestion: when replacing the covers, turn the O-ring / gasket over in the cover slot - putting the flattened side into the groove - and put a little oil on the gasket.

     

  10. Carbs

     

    1. Carb Synching (updated 3/28/06)

       

      This is a procedure that needs to be done every now and then (some say every other oil change), or a least any time your bike feels like it running rough.  Very easy to do, and very inexpensive, too - if you use the DIY synch tool.

       

      Another view: -- Rules are:

      -- synch whenever you make major change to the air/fuel/exhaust systems
      -- synch whenever you start to feel new vibration in the grips or your mirrors start to vibrate

          Otherwise - you can always follow the service recommendation.

       

      Hop over to Section 5 - Performance, Tuning for How to Synch Carbs

       

    2. Carb Cleaning  (updated 05/18/07)

       

      Easy way if light "dirt"

      - Just pick up a can of Seafoam and add to your gas per directions on the container. The stuff works great.

      - Before the was Seafoam, there was Berrymans B12 - per Tim B - cheap at Wally World and does the same thing!!

       

      More thorough way - complements of mitchelguita

      May I suggest to clean the carbs this way.

      -- Gain excess to the carbs. Looking down from the top you will see two black plastic covers, one for each carb. These covers are secured with two black screws on opposite corners. They are the covers for the needle / slider assembly. By removing these screws you remove the black cover.

      -- Note: the left carbs holds the choke cable, it has a different screw that has a brass spacer under the choke cable bracket. Keep track of the difference.

      -- Under the cover you will find the diaphragm / slider, a little "O" ring and a spring. Be careful with the "O" ring as sometimes it will stick with the black cover when you lift off the cover -- the "O" ring must be there or you will have an air leak that will effect the way the bike runs.

      -- Then remove the spring and diaphragm / slider. Check the diaphragm / slider for a torn diaphragm and the plastic slider for build up of garbage. Look inside the middle of the diaphragm there is a white plastic tab, this is the plug that holds the needle in the slider, you won't have to mess with that unless it has come loose.

      -- Take some 800 grade sandpaper and and sand the garbage off the plastic slider. I like to use some Marvel Mystery Oil as a lubricant to wet sand the slider.

      -- On the bottom of the carbs fuel bowl there is a outlet and and a screw 90 degrees next to the outlet. This is the fuel bowl drain, attach a hose to the drain so that the fuel will not get on the bike and unscrew the screw half way to let the fuel drain out of the bowl, leave the screw open and the hose attached for the next part.

      -- Looking down from the top you will see the hole that the needle goes through. Using some spray carburetor cleaner, place the straw from the can into the hole and spray away. Be careful for back spray. This will flush out the bowls and jets with the garbage coming out of the hose on the bottom of the bowls.

      -- Close drain screw, remove hose, and install the needle / slider assembly. Check that the needle / slider assembly move smoothly in the carb.

      -- Install the spring and place the "O" ring over the hole next to the screw hole and evenly bring the black cover down to the carb, don't twist the cover as it might twist the diaphragm. Install the two screws.

      This is how I would clean the carb without removing them from the bike. Go slow and check everything twice. Good luck.

       

  11. Maintenance Supplies / Fluids  (updated 1/30/06)

     

    1. Fuel

       

      Manual specifies 87 Octane (US Regular), and fuel can have up to 10% ethanol.

       

      Discussion: 

      Our bike, based on its compression ratio can NOT benefit from use of higher octane fuel.

      Use of fuel with octane ratings OVER 87 will result in LOWER PERFORMANCE and LOWER MILEAGE

       

    2. Oil

      1. Engine Oil - Yamalube 4 (20W40 SE) -- CAUTION: Do NOT use oil with friction modifiers - will cause clutch to slip!
                alternates: Mobile 1 15w-30, 5W-40 Shell Rotella synthetic, AMSOIL 20W-50 V-Twin,

         

        Discussion:

         

        Daddo (DaddoCFL) 1/18/06:  (See the forum discussion Thread)

         

        I just wanted to report that I have now logged 6,000 miles on the newest oil that makes me happy. That would be Mobil-1 – Extended Performance 15W-50 Full Synthetic Motor Oil.

        I went through 3,000 miles of 5W-40 Shell Rotella synthetic and I’ve got to say that I was not completely happy with it. Granted, it is a good quality oil that for the most part does a good job of lubricating a V-Star 1100 engine, but I didn’t like it.

        I guess that the first 43,000 miles on AMSOIL 20W-50 V-Twin Specific oil kind of spoiled me. The engine ran like a bat with that gool in there, and it was relatively quiet.

         

        I followed some recommendations of folks on this forum and tried the Shell Rotella Synthetic and noticed that my relatively quiet engine now sounded like my burr mill coffee grinder working it’s way through 4 ounces of coffee beans. The new and louder noise was the first shoe to drop. Then I noticed the large quantity of that light weight oil that was being sucked out of the crankcase vent by the draw from my MaxAir Predator Air Kit. Forget it, the second shoe hit the floor and that load of Rotella was on it’s way to the recycling tank at my local Advance Auto Parts store.

        When the engine fired up with it’s belly full of Mobil-1 15W-50 it was quiet again, just like the AMSOIL.

         

        So why didn’t I just go back to AMSOIL? For the most part, motorcycle specific oils (any brand) are just a waste of money. Some of the motorcycle blends truly are different then their automotive counterparts, but it is a difference that really does not make a difference on a normal street bike.

         

        The cost of a 5 quart jug of the Mobil 1 15W-50 was just a tad over $24.00 at Wal-Mart. This particular weight of Mobil 1, does not include friction modifiers. Did you know that friction modifiers are usually only added to the lighter weights of most oils?

        By the way, of course I researched five years worth of articles on motorcycle tech forums and owner’s groups before making this change. 

         

        This is a great article:  All About Oil  http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html 

         

      2. Final Drive Oil - SAE80API "GL-4" Hypoid Gear Oil
                alternates:

       

    3. Grease

       

      Drive Shaft Splines - Molybdenum Disulfide Grease
              alternates:

      Front Wheel Axle, Rear Axle Hub - Lithium Soap Base Grease
              alternates:
       

    4. Brakes   (updated 2/10/06)

       

      Source for Brake Pads

       

    5. Brake Fluid

       

      Brake Fluid - DOT 4
       

    6. Cleaning Supplies

       

    7. Misc. (Locktite, etc)

       

  12. Tools (updated 11/23/06)

     

    1. Torque Wrenches   (updated 11/23/06)

       

      Daddo (DaddoCFL):

       

      For the biggest bang for the buck I would suggest that you pick up a pair of Craftsman, beam indicator style torque wrenches like this one:

      http://cgi.ebay.com/3-8-INCH-DRIVE-CRAFTSMAN-TORQUE-WRENCH-MDL-44690_W0QQitemZ4433637064QQcategoryZ42265QQtcZphotoQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

      #44690 That is useful from 0 to 75 ft. lbs. (0 to 100 Newton Meters), and
      #44641 That is useful from 0 to 150 ft. lbs. (0 to 20 Kilogram/Meters).
              (100 kilogram meter = 980.665 newton meter)

      Having a couple of Automatic release type torque wrenches would be nice, but personally I would not trust the lower cost versions out there when you are threading steel bolts into aluminum alloy. The “Oh Crap” factor is relay too dangerous to fool with.

       

  13. Fixing Rust  (updated 7/23/06)

    Complements of DaddoCFL:

     

    There are two primary compounds that are used to address the issue of metal that has gotten away from you, and has started to rust. The first and more well known of these would be Navel Jelly. Navel Jelly chemically dissolves and lifts oxidized metal from the remaining undamaged steel that is underneath. You would then apply some type of appropriate coating over the damaged area to prevent further rust damage. This process is usually necessary in areas that are visible.

    Rust Converter is a compound that chemically alters oxidized (rusted) iron and steel and changes it into . . . well, I don’t know what the resulting coating has become other then to say that it is very black and very hard. It can even be sanded and painted, but that is not necessary. I generally use it in areas that are absolutely out of sight and usually a pain in the butt to get to.

    Rust Converter and Navel Jelly are both sold in most car supply stores, I buy mine at Wal-Mart and sometimes at the ACE Hardware store locally. The usual drill is to loosen and remove as much of the scaly, surface rust as you can, prior to applying either chemical. After the Navel Jelly has lifted the rust, you must wipe it (wash it ) off of the treated area and apply some type of protective coating (paint, clear lacquer, bluing compound, fingernail polish <G>, whatever)

    The rust converter repair is prepped the same way, but it is painted on and left to do it’s job. No further finish work is required unless you want to paint it, etc.

    If you stay on top of your maintenance and use a protective coating of wax on a regular basis, you won’t ever need Navel Jelly.

    Unless you are anal retentive about constantly pulling the bike apart on a regular basis for cleaning, the Rust Converter will eventually come in handy as the ride ages.

     

    Pipes Specifically:


    The areas on your pipes that will start to rust over time are the inside bottoms and under the heat shields.

    On a not too frequent, but regular basis I pull the pipes to inspect for and remove any rust buildup. This will mostly happen under the heat shields.

    I use a combination of 1/8” nylon string/rope and an abrasive dish scrubber (metal) Tuffy pad. Using the string tied to the pad, I can pull it back and forth between the pipes and the heat shields to dislodge and built-up scale and rust flakes. Then I use the same method to drag a balled up section of cloth, saturated with rust converter along the same path. YOU MUST WEAR RUBBER OR LATEX GLOVES for this process. Because Rust Converter will react with any form of iron, it will dye your skin black for at least a week until it wears away (I’m not going to get into that story).
     

  14. Problem Shifting  (Updated 09/17/07)

    Bouncing out of Gears (Especially 1st)

     

    This bike likes to be shifted firmly, so be sure you are applying pressure to the shifter and holding it a bit - not just flicking the shifter lightly.

     

    Shifter Sticking - almost like you have to stomp the shifter.

     

    Several folks have had this problem, and it turns out to be the screw that holds the shift drum in place had backed out and bound up the shifting mechanism.  DO NOT CONTINUE TO RIDE UNTIL YOU FIX IT!  (will get worse to the point of needing a tow!

     

    To check it out / diagnose:  Make sure everything appears to be OK with the external shifting linkages, etc. --  take the external linkage off the shaft that goes into the case and see if the shift lever is free. If it is, then you need to open the left side of the engine case and check/tighten/replace the screw.  If the linkage was binding, lube the pivot.

     

  15. Drive Train Problems  (added 07/15/08)

    Several forum members have experienced failures in their drive trains - specifically failure of the middle drive shaft.

     

    If you have experienced this Failure of the Middle Drive Shaft retaining nut snapping, please lodge a formal complaint complete with your details directly with the NHTSA. The more that do this the greater chance we all have of Yamaha taking notice. Click this link to post your complaint:

    https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/Consumer.cfm

     

    **** An early symptom - perhaps less damaging result - bolt loose without the "snap":

     

         Noisy Drive Train: twodogsfing :

               http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=34922.1

         http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=35327.1

     

    **** Excellent Pictures from Frank (02ctvstar) :

          http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2436679120076514797xSSlTy?vhost=good-times

     

    Here is a forum thread that covers the topic pretty thoroughly, and includes links to several other threads for added information.

    http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=29268.1

     

    Another thread that details the Parts involved vs the parts drawing

     

    *****Middle Drive Parts List (PDF file) - courtesy of COBB

     

    The end of the middle drive shaft has snapped off, and in the worst cases (small percentage) the broken shaft and nut jams the universal joint and the final drive shaft gets bent - major repair bill. This has been seen in bikes with all levels of mileage, and appears to be metal failure in the midddle shaft.

     

    It is very hard to estimate the number of occurrences (or the frequency relative to the number of 1100's sold).  One large volume dealer in FL reported seeing 4 to 6 per year, but there is no way to extrapolate that to a number reflecting the numbers across the world - just not enough data.

     

    Quoting Larry (LMCFL), who was the first I saw to report this on the forum and who devised a relatively low cost repair (if final shaft NOT bent) you can do yourself for about $200-$225:

     

    "If your final drive shaft has NOT been bent due to the broken shaft end and nut jamming the U/V joint into the steel frame you are looking at a repair bill of a few hundred dollars if you can do the work yourself.

    If the shaft has been bent in the same way it has occurred on Cobb's bike then you are looking are a repair bill of between $1,700 an $2,200 depending on your dealer's shop rate.

    Either way, the engine needs to come out of the bike. However if the shaft is bent the engine and transmission will need to come apart to replace the shaft. It is not replaceable from the outside of the engine."

     

    Here is a forum thread that covers the topic pretty thoroughly, and includes links to several other threads for added information.

    http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=29268.1

     

    The other threads:
     http://forums.delphiforums.com/star_riders/messages?msg=85970.1
    http://forums.delphiforums.com/BRISRA/messages?msg=271.1
    http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=28162.1
    http://forums.delphiforums.com/star_riders/messages?msg=86794.1
     http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=27377.1

    http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=34630.1

     

     

    ***ANOTHER FASTER WAY - NO ENGINE REMOVAL - BUT NEED SKILLS AND STEADY HAND

    Courtesy of Wrenchman9 (EDWARD4530)

     

    This repair can be done WITHOUT removing the engine....approximately 4 to 5 hrs from start to finish....got lucky was able to repair speedo sensor.......total cost was 6 dollars. (this is the owner vinnyv)

     

    From Wrenchma9:


    I can't emphasize enough how critical it is to not take lightly that this is not for the faint of heart. It's really hard to see and get things centered and keep them centered. Also, if I were doing one today I'd cut the nut down so there is more clearance between the joint and the new bolt. Also, I forgot to mention (below) that we used a much thinner washer under the nut, not the factory washer. This is mentioned in other articles as well.

     

    Removed the rear wheel, took off all the junk on the left side of the bike (less than 1 hour), slip the yoke out of the tube. Now for the fun part. Eyeball the shaft from whatever angle you can and mark it with a sharpie dead center. Look again. If it isn't on center then blast it with brake cleaner and mark it again. Once it's centered take a center punch and hit the mark.

     

    You'll need a 90 degre