>> Last Updated: 06/30/2009 10:59 AM Central Time <<

5. Performance, Tuning                (Back to Topics)

Index to Performance & Tuning:          (Back to Topics)

Making More Horsepower   Performance Comparison - Various Mods   Exhaust Mods   Air Intake Mods Discussion   DIY Air Intake Mod   Hyper Charger / BAK / Speedstar   POD Kits   -- DIY POD Kit   -- "Under Tank" POD Kits   -- "Exposed" POD Kit   -- POD Installation & Hints        -- Foam vs. K&N PODS        -- Stock PMS & Aftermarket        -- Jetting Instructions (ABC's)        -- Hints, "War Stories"     Single Carb - KJS     Fuel Injection     Turbo Charging     Replacement A/C "Covers"

2006+ / Catalytic Converter Bike Needs Discussion - General  Dyno Results - Maximum Effect Mod Instructions - How To Do It! Discussion Threads Carburetors Discussion   Jetting 101 - Must Read!    -- Jetting Settings    -- DynoJet Kit = No!    -- Jetting, Setting    -- Jetting Instructions (ABC's)    -- What Jets    -- Dial-a-Jet?    -- Undoing Old Jetting         (DynoJet, Hypercharger/HighFive)     -- Drill Slides, Cut Springs - Maybe next step??   Troubleshooting Carb Problems   Synchronizing Carbs    -- Discussion  DIY Synch Tools  Bench Synch   DIY Manometer - Synch Tool   Adjusting Floats Other Performance / Tuning Information AIS Plugging, Removal Dynamometers - Measure Performance Tachometers - Setting Idle Spark Plugs Coils Cams   Cam Jetting Ignition Boxes (Dyna Units) Wind - Bogging Engine

1. Making More Horse Power  (updated 9/23/06)     BACK TO INDEX

   Making horsepower and torque is all about moving air - intake and exhaust. To get the most out of your V*Star 1100 you will have to address both the front and back end of the air-fuel cycle. 

    

   This means you will need to:

   1.) increase the air flow on the intake side (better air cleaners, removal of restrictions, etc)

   2.) increase the flow on the exhaust side (better pipes - slip-on, full 2 into 2, full 2 into 1 and performance pipes)

   3.) change the jetting to match and take advantage of your new, freer flowing system.

   What follows is the current thinking about the different ways to accomplish these tasks.

    

   This section will focus mainly on the intake and carburetor portion of the process, and you can refer to the exhaust section for more info on how to handle that end of the process.

    

   For more general info on the process - here is a link to an excellent Article, provided to the forum by hoghead63:

              http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/HP2.html

2. Performance Comparison - Various Mods:   (updated 05/05/08)         BACK TO INDEX

    

   Discussion:   (updated 10/19/08)

    

   Significant testing and Dynoing by the early tuners and users of pod kits with various exhaust types has resulted in a ton of info -- and you can rest assured that if you follow the pod installation and jetting instructions for your kind of exhaust -- the results will be pretty much dead on!, There is no real need for you to spend your $$ on a Dyno run, unless you are getting unexpected results or problems.

    

   If you decide on the Dyno route,  major item for tuning your bike after making fuel / air changes (jets, pods, etc) is the AFR - Air Fuel Ratio. This item is one of the 3 things you want to get recorded when you have your ride Dynoed, the other ones being Horsepower and Torque. 

    

   "Perfect" AFR is 14.7 parts of air to 1 part fuel = AFR = 14.7.  Comment: "As it is impossible for any carb to deliver perfect air/fuel ratios, you always try to be a little richer across the range - if you can. Running a LITTLE rich also improves drivability. Too rich and the engine chokes on the fuel and can't burn it all properly, and power drops off." (raymajor)

    

   If you look at Dyno sheets, you will note that maximum HP is produced at Wide Open Throttle and AFR is in the 12.1 to 12.5 range.

    

   This table was given to me early on in the process of building the KB - now I would like folks to challenge it and discuss how it needs to be change - based on what we KNOW (Dyno results, etc)

    

   Modification Status	Approx. HP	HP vs. Above	HP vs.. Stock
   Stock Bike - Untouched	50	0	0
   Pod Kit, Jets, Std / Drilled Std Exhaust	55-58	5-8	5-8
   Pod Kit, Jets, Aftermarket Slip-ons	55-58	0	5-8
   Pod Kit, Jets, Full Replacement 2-to-2 Exhaust	60-62	5-6	10-12
   Mid Range Cams, Pod Kit, Jets, Full 2-to-2 Exhaust OR   Pod Kit, Jets, Full Replacement 2-to-1 Exhaust	65-68	3-6	15-18
   Pod Kit, Jets, "Performance" 2-to-1 Exhaust	69-70	2-4	19-20
   Mid Range Cams, Pod Kit, Jets, Performance 2-to-1 Exhaust	75-77	6-7	24-25
   Turbo - Nick's Mods - 19.5psi boost 110 Octane Fuel	112.05	36	62.05

    

   Note:   Current list of "performance" pipes includes: Cobra HP 2-1, Cobra Speedsters 2-2, PCS Monster Pro 2-2 (despite looks),  Roadhouse classic 2-1,  Pro-Race Pipe by S&S Custom Cycle 2-1 and . . . .  (List also in Jetting 101 section - note to myself)

   Note:  The Cobra 2 into 1 pipes, either the trumpet or the straight ended ones, have been turning out the best HP of all the "performance" 2-1 pipes - and you should expect to get an added 2-4 HP from them.

   Note:  Shane, S&S Customs, is finding the Cobra Speedsters, with their cross-over "port" are delivering similar HP to the Cobra 2 into 1's - maybe 1 -2 HP less - so if you like 2 into 2 look - they sound like a real good bet!

   Hyper charger, the Big Air Kit and the Speedstar intake

    Missing from this chart and the discussion below is what to expect from the other air intake mods, such as the Hyper charger, the Big Air Kit and the Speedstar intake, as well as the DIY Air in take mod - all discussed below.  the lack of data is the hindrance to including those mods in this table.  Most folks who make mods for power are focused on the various POD setup, and therefore we have a lot of data on those application - in combination with lots of exhaust system. 

             We know a good tuner can get comparable HP from the bike with the Hypercharger and / or the BAK - here's a quote from our favorite "tuner":

   "I did a customers stock 1100,... Cobra high-boy shot guns with a hyper-charger and Dyna 3000 it pulled 63 HP at the wheel. It also pulled perfect from idle to top end and I have the Dyno sheets to show it, I'll post the sheet for you to see. I've seen the same results with the BAK... I've also never seen anyone with pods and pipes break 65hp,...Maybe on a real generous Dyno but, the average with pods and pipes is 60 just like all other kits. With that being said, I do think that if you have not added a air kit already the pods are the best way to go. They are easier to tune, perform well and can stay even with internal mods..  Shane, Pres. SS Custom Cycle Inc.

   If you have done the other type of intake mods and have data (jetting, Dyno results for HP/TQ, make a post on the forum - sparks debate, gets others to chime in and will eventually get the data in here.

   Note: See section on Cams for details on what cams do for you relative to other cams.

    Another view: Vstar_in_NH:

    

   -- Stock V*Stars are 48-51hp,

   -- Air kit with 2-2 pipes will get you about 7-10 hp.

   -- Use a 2-1 pipe and an ignition box you'll see 12-15hp.

   -- Unless they have it dynoed before and after showing the AFR and TQ/HP it's just a guess

         -- every bike is different within a few ponys.

    

   -- I just dynoed mine with Bub Big Willies w/ 1.5in baffles, 420 cams, dual stock carbs, Dyna 2k ignition on curve 7.

          I got 62hp and 70TQ SAE corrected, slightly rich on mix. So I'd say 2 more ponys are there.. maybe.

   -- If I go to a 2-1 pipe I'd get more.

    

   -- I got 68hp and 92TQ with the same setup only I used a KJS intake and a flat slide carb instead of the stock carb setup.

    

   -- We are working on an EFI system that so far has put us at 68HP and 98TQ. The pipe is the biggest hold back.

    

   -- Bottom line is an air kit will get you about 7-10 ponys, IF setup correctly. Is it worth it? .... Yes!

   Dyno Sheets WANTED!!! - with Bike Setup Details (if you have them -- send them in!):

    

3. Exhaust Mods            BACK TO INDEX

    

   1. Discussion: 

       

      Several different exhaust options are used as variables in the performance tables listed in the next sections.  For additional information on exhaust pipe options, modifications, etc. see the Chapter on Exhaust.

       

      As noted above, the maximum benefit in performance improvement is a result of changing both the intake and exhaust setup.  If you change to a freer flowing exhaust system, you will notice popping on deceleration, a 'fault" that can be removed by Plugging or Removing the AIS System - Information here.

    

4. Air Intake Modifications (updated 8/05/06)              BACK TO INDEX

             

   1. Performance Mods Discussion:   -- One Guy's Opinion (More Follow) - SilverBack             BACK TO INDEX

       

      These bike are capable of much higher output of torque and horsepower than the manufacturer provides stock. The addition of improved air flow into the bike and the addition of a free flowing exhaust system can really boost performance. (See other discussion below)

       

      Air intake mods run the gamut from: changing out the stock filter for more free flowing filters like the K&N products: to DIY increases to air flow via opening the stock flow restrictions: to Hyper chargers BigAirKits and Speedstar Cover: to POD  kits: to single manifold - single carb mods.  Most will require jetting changes to allow improved fuel flow to accommodate the increased air flow. And all require better, more free flowing pipes to make the most of the changes.

       

      All of the mods are within the scope of any rider to install themselves - especially with the help and guidance available form: the excellent directions the vendors supply: added information available here: AND the help available from the members of the forum.

       

      Switching to a K&N filter will give you some improvement, but still uses 100% of the restrictive air passages in stock mode. Doing the DIY mod along with the K&N filter, removes the smallest restriction but still leaves the other ones in place (you enlarge the hole that provides the initial intake, but leave the stock tube from the air cleaner to the stock air box under the seat - still restrictive!). You do get some HP improvements from these changes, and jetting may be required.

       

      The same is true of the Hyper Chargers, BAKs and Speedstar Cover with K&N filters, all of which do use the same outlet to the air box, and also moves the air source from between the cylinders to outside the right side of the stock air filter location.  Some argue that the scoop nature of the hyper chargers forces air into the bike. Lacking measurements, etc, I am some what skeptical of this argument, given that the bike is sucking air in to beat the band and there does not really seem to be a lot of air flow in the area of the hyper charger scoop. (This is another one of those "on faith" things - so don't yell at me unless you have repeatable tests, proof, etc).  See Daddo - Larry Marino's comments below on the Hyper Charger. You do get some HP changes and jetting is required.

       

      Also, several of the "in the know" folks say that you can get as much HP (and maybe a little more torque) from a properly tuned bike with good, full system pipes and the Hyper charger. See comments above. ((Hyper chargers look really cool and lots of folks who have switched to PODs leave the hyper charger in place for looks - and even hook a vacuum line up so the flappers flap.))

      
      Pod Kits are the most popular of the air intake mods, giving the most improved power for the dollars & time invested. They also are the best first stage of improvement for those on their way to adding cams and other performance mods.  They are also the easiest air mods to tune for maximum performance, part due to their prevalence and the amount of performance and tuning information and help available.

       

      POD kits replace the very restrictive stock intake system from the air cleaner inward through and including the air box under the tank - with individual pod filters (hence the name) perched directly on top of the carbs under the fuel tank. The kits include the jetting parts needed to handle the increased air flow, with instructions on jetting needed for stock, slip-on and full exhaust systems. YES, there are improvements for all types of exhaust systems, even stock. But, the maximum power benefit comes from opening up both ends - increasing air flow and unrestricting the exhaust.

       

      Metric Magic (Tim Bondurant)  has introduced a pod system with elbows and attachments and filters that are mounted out from under the tank - one on each side.  Going by the name Dragon's Breath, this pod setup looks real cool, provides good leg clearance, and makes it a snap to clean and service the K&N filters provided

       

      The maximum improvement comes from doing the pod kit and full exhaust at the same time, and that also means you will only have to mess with the jetting once.  But doing the jetting a second time is really no big deal, so if cash flow precludes doing both together, do them in stages.

       

      When you move on to the single manifold - single carb solution, you get vastly different area where performance is improved - improvement over a broader range of rpm's, but is concentrated in the lower rpm's.  Ton's of torque and lots of get up and go on the bottom end. (See the discussion below from Vstar-In-NH (Jack Rosa) who has done it all ways.

       

      Jack is also working now on a fuel injection alternative - which should really prove interesting as it matures. (Don't bug me on this)

       

      More Discussion - Hyper Chargers (Etc) Work, But! -   Daddo (DaddoCFL): (updated 7/1/06)

       

      Well, Hyperchargers absolutely do work, albeit not in the way that you might need or want.  They can be effectively tuned for a specific cruising speed to give you impressive acceleration in a throttle roll-on. Unfortunately that comes with just so-so performance the rest of the time at lower speeds where you will actually be over-jetted for the airflow.
      
      They are hellishly hard to tune the carburetors to, as the change in air pressure in the intake system is radically different at 30mph and 65 mph. At idle and low speeds there is a measurable vacuum in the inlet air stream (that is how we balance our carburetors). At speed there is an overpressure condition that is higher then the ambient air pressure where you are. At speed, it performs like a supercharger.
      
      First of all let's stop to consider the fact that it is a RAM AIR INDUCTION device. If you try to tune the thing on a Dyno, you will get miserable results, unless you Dyno is in a wind tunnel. Short of that you would need to in some way provide accelerated airflow to the Hypercharger inlet, at a velocity that would match the speed you want to tune it for. The fact is, you really can’t use this method as static Dyno tests will only give you a fairly clear picture of the HP and Torque of a bike that is not going anywhere, but just spinning the hell out of it's drive train with an artificial load on the drive wheel.
      
      What does that mean at 40, 60, or 80 MPH??? Well it does not really tell you anything. That is perhaps why the Dyno run will just indicate about a 1 HP increase across the band. Just about the same as you get with a larger and less restrictive air filter. The manufacturers that offer this equipment really just give your their best estimate of the correct rejetting that will make the boy run well at the HP peak of your power band (most of the time).
      
      What about your Hypercharger installation working too well? On some installations, on some bikes, the inlet actually takes in too much air. When that occurs, the carburetor venturi tends to pressurize, and in effect, restricts or stops the flow of fuel. The solution, worked out by a group of Vulcan riders (see, they are good guys too), was to also pressurize the carburetor float bowl as well. They had accomplished this by running an additional air hose(s) from the Air ram to the carburetor float bowls. You can find a reference to this on (and I hope that the link is still there): www.sa750.com/hypercharger/hypercharger2.htm.
      
      I would expect that this same principle also applies to most Big Air Kits, How many of them have been tested in an environment that duplicates the airflow of a bike moving at speed? A volume of air moving at speed past a stationary object usually results in a big-time pressure drop. While the BAK filter is in an area of substantial turbulence, there still remains a pressure wave on the leading face, and a major negative pressure on the trailing side. Does that result in a positive or negative partial pressure inside the air box?? Well I don't know, and I bet most of the manufacturers don't know either. It MUST be tested at speed with internal pressure sensors inside the filter housing and at the carburetor inlet.
      
      I would expect that Kuryakyn has now addressed this issue and resolved it. As the Hypercharger has been available for HD applications for some time now you will find a lot of data and testimonials on the HD specific bulletin boards. Good I wish you well with whatever system you choose.

       

      Even More Discussion - KJS Gives the Most -   "Vstar_in_NH": (updated 1/10/06)

       

      No hype here.. Well, Best bang for the buck... Hmmm, I've done most of the common performance mods, air kit, KJS manifold, Cams, Stock modded pipes, slip-ons, Cobra low boys, Bub Big Willys, Dyna ignition and currently working on an EFI. I've dynoed all of them and Have solid real data as well as riding experience with these. Here is what I have found to be the best bang for the buck.
      
      1) KJS manifold, Mikuni HS 40 carb, Bub pipes and a Dyna ignition. MEGA torque and good HP, super easy to work on and overall the most fun.

      
      2) KJS manifold, Mikuni HS 40 carb, Bub pipes, S&S 420 cams and a Dyna ignition. good torque and good HP but extended way up in the RPMs.

      
      3) Stock carbs, Pod air kit (Max Air, Cycle Foray, etc same performance), S&S 420 cams, Bub Big Willys and Dyna ignition. Fair torque, good HP but the highway and high rpm the motor likes to live there.

      
      4) Stock carbs, Pod air kit (Max Air, Cycle Foray, etc), Bub Big Willys and Dyna ignition. More breathing better revving then stock.
      
      Any 2-1 pipe will get me 5-7 more hp, but I like the 2-2 sound.

       

      Doing the air kit is easy, Even the most popular installed still has people looking at the BEAK instructions. It's "friggin" easy. Build it yourself, save $60-80 bucks. We can get you setup on the forum here. Here is what you need.  http://vstar1100.froggbox.com/airkit.htm
      
      Or you can make your Vstar sound and perform like a raging beast by using a KJS kit, which by it's self even with stock pipes and ignition will yield over 78lbs of torque! Check out my video on the sound and the Dyno runs I have posted on my site.
      
      Here is the link to KJS -- http://www.kjsmotorcycleworks.com
       
      Here is the link to my site. -- http://vstar1100.froggbox.com
      
      Come over to the KJS forum and check out all the data from the guys. -- http://forums.delphiforums.com/vstarclinic/start
      
      I have a lot of info posted on my site on the true performance of these mods measured on the same bike on the same dyno. Don't get hyped, keep a level head and choose. Make your plan on mods and go for it. Beware of the cult of the air kit kind of thing, you'll hear a lot of "I got 100hp cuz they tossed and air filter on". Take your time deciding and most of all focus on the way you plan to ride. Good luck, We're here for ya!

       

      Summary:

       

      The question you need to consider is how do you plan to ride?

       

      Are you into wringing it out a lot? Tucking on the tank and going hell bent for leather?

      Or are you going to be spending more time cruising?

      Riding 2 up, jumping off the line light to light and just ripping around?

       

      -- Mild cams are good all around performance, but payoff when you are pulling above 4200-4500 rpm,

      -- Stock cams with the KJS manifold will give you ripping power from 1800-4800 rpm, but fall off after 5200 rpm. On the highway the KJS was much better then stock, but when I added the cams over 95mph in 5th gear it pulled better with cams.

      -- Pod's with cams felt basically like stock except the power does not fall off until you hit 6200 rpm then it falls off.

       

      If you look at the Dyno charts you can see the curves. Smooth arcs are long building power, steep curves are hold on to the handle bars or you'll fall of power. Each one has it's use. The key is "Power Placement" and "throttle management" Put the power where it will do the most good for the majority of your riding. If you take a 100 mile trip, of the 100 miles how many miles will you be WOT (Wide open Throttle) 5-10? Think about it.. Peak HP #'s are not everything, power placement is key. If you are going to run the 1/4 mile every weekend then Pods, cams and a 2-1 are what you're looking for. But if the majority of the time you'll be riding to work around the hills, dusting off your bro light to light then torque is more of what your looking for.. It's not that you can't use either to race, It's just they deliver different power and therefore will require you to adapt your riding style to meet the need.

       

   2. DIY Air Intake Mods               BACK TO INDEX

       

      DIY Hy-FLOW Factory Air Cleaner - Tony Anzalone

       

      This mod increases the air flow from the "dog bowl" stock air cleaner by: significantly increasing the air intake by enlarging the inlet hole size in the rear of the assembly and by modifying and installing a K&N filter - The mod does retain the stock air-box, and does require jetting changes for some exhaust systems.

       

   3. Hyper Charger & BAK (Big Air Kit) & Speedstar Cover   (updated 09/13/07)           BACK TO INDEX

       

      Discussion: See general discussion above.

       

      NOTE:

      We are trying to accumulate jetting information to build up the base of info on the use of these devices. 

       

      We invite folks with any of these setups, to communicate (via email to Silverback or via post on the forum) your exact set-up: which device, what pipes, jetting, needle and PMS settings, and any other info you feel might be helpful. If you are not sure - check the documentation that came with the package and/or check with whomever installed the device.

       

      If you have the installation instructions - please contact Silverback - so we can work out the best way to get an electronic copy to put on file.

       

      Jetting  (updated 01/17/09)

      Hypercharger - From Kuryakyn:

      With stock exhaust or Cobra Slip-On Mufflers
      • 1.2 Pilot Air Bleeds in both carbs
      • One .020 shim added to raise each needle
      • 122.5 Main Jet in the front cylinder’s carb
      • 120 Main Jet in the rear cylinder’s carb
      • Pilot Mixture Screw (PMS) 2 turns out from lightly bottomed

      With Vance & Hines, Samson, or open “Drag” pipes
      • 1.2 Pilot Air Bleeds in both carbs
      • One .020 shim added to raise each needle
      • 125 Main Jet in the front cylinder’s carb
      • 122.5 Main Jet in the rear cylinder’s carb
      • Pilot Mixture Screw (PMS) 2 turns out from lightly bottomed

      http://www.kuryakyn.com/documents/installation/9409-25MC-0308.pdf

      BAK - Input from Squirrel aka Rob Lewis

      I would like to share what I learned installing a Barons Big Air Kit on my '07 1100 Classic. Hopefully this can give you a start for the BAK's. Also many people go with the pod installation and modify the carbs for this, but my bike is still under warranty and I didn't want to chop up my carbs and void the warranty. This is the reason for the BAK.

       

      My setup is:

       

      '07 Classic  Cobra Slash Cut Slip-ons  Comet BAK   Altitude : 1058 feet

      17.5 Stock Pilot Jet

      Stock Starter Jet

      117.5 Front Main Jet

      115.0 Rear Main jet

      Stock Needles with +1 shim

      Stock float height

       

      The Barons air kit arrives with a jet kit for the 1100 Mikuni carbs. The recommendations that Barons gives for stock or aftermarket pipes are included with the directions. They provide original Mikuni main jets in 107.5 & 110 for Stock bikes, and 112.5 & 115 for aftermarket pipes.( Slip-ons, or Full Systems). Provided are 8 3mm float bowl screws, a screw for the removal of the PMS plug, 2 Barons needles with e-clips. (Note: these are DynaJet needles)

       

      I installed the recommended main jets of 115 front & 112.5 rear, with Barons needles on the 4th notch and PMS set at 4 turns out. Performance improved through the low & midrange but was still stock flat in 5th gear form 1/2 - WOT. These main jet sizes are 1 size up from stock on the '07 model year bikes.

      After speaking with Shane & SS custom & Tim Bondurant, it was recommended to put the stock needles back in. Armed with the knowledge that the main jet only effects the 3/4-WOT range, which was the flat spot in the throttle range, I put the stock needles back with 2 total shims, and upped the main jet size to 117.5 front & 115 rear. The idle circuit seemed rich so I closed up the PMS to 2.75 turns. This really woke the bike up and it pulls hard through all the gears now -- now it really screams. I can cruise 65-70mph now in 4th, where previously, it was hard to keep 70mp in 5th.

      My theory on the needles and main jets in the Barons kit:

      I found the recommended main jet settings that they provide are a bit too lean. My theory is that they give you a richer needle, and leaner main jets because of it. This gives good midrange performance, but leaves the top end lacking. Going up 1 more size on the mains made all the difference in the world on the top end. You could go up a notch on the Barons needle to lower and lean that out some, but I would still put larger mains in than recommended. I just prefer the stock needles. Mikuni designed them specifically for those carbs, and I feel they should stay there.

       

      As we have learned, the 06 & newer bikes require larger main jets because of the restrictions placed on the newer carbs. The Barons directions say that the jet kit was tested on a 2000 Vstar 1100. Well the 2000 does not have the carb restrictions that the newer model years have and I feel, even after speaking to Barons, that the jet kit needs to be revamped for the '06 and newer model years. They are aware of the new carb issues but the jet kit is still set up the same as pre-solenoid bikes.

      
      Once I get it to a Dyno, I will provide the results !!

      Sources:

      Kuryakyn Hyper Charger

      Baron's Big Air Kit (BAK)

      Yamaha Speedstar Cover Look-a-like for 1100

              Thread on ISRA Discussing this & Jetting

       

   4. Pod Kits:     (updated 006/26/08)       BACK TO INDEX

       

       Note: 2006 Owners - there are special considerations required for these bikes and their carb design - which has unique impact (s) on tuning - see discussion below in the 2006 / Catalytic Converter Bike Needs Section

       

      1. DIY - Pod Kit  (updated 05/16/08)          BACK TO INDEX

          

         You can build one yourself for around $68.00 (old price, now $80 to $100).

         Here's how to do it.. (Courtesy of Jack Vstar_In_NH )

         
           (2) K&N RU-0600 filters
           (2) 145 (or other sized) main jets for use depending on which aftermarket exhaust
           (2) 22.5 pilot jets
           (2) 0.020" thick M3 shims/ washers on each needle (Get from Radio Shack (part # 64-3022) or from RC car retailer/hobby shop)
                Note: use 2.5-3 turns on the stock Pilot screw
           (8) M4-.7 pitch 8mm long (10mm long works also) socket head screws for the carb bowls

                          because you will likely damage the stock ones when removing them.
           (8) M4 lock washers  (Not really required - they hold fine without the washers - or reuse the stock ones)
           (1) Breather filter UNI filter UP-123

          

           Also: Make your own crank case vent collection bottle - http://www.dumpit.org/reaperjr/vent.htm
         
             All of the parts mentioned above can be had at Phat Performance Parts...

                          http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc

          

         Download the jetting article here  (new link) if you have never jetted a carb before (courtesy of Steve at CycleForay - site off line now).

          

         Also:

          

         "The issue of attaching the pods to the rubber intake boots was addressed by a few of the forum regulars when I asked the question a couple of weeks ago. To summarize, using K&N RU-0600 air filters (which seem to be the most often suggested pods for this project), one finds that these filters slip right into the rubber intake boots and can be clamped down as easy as that. However, somewhere out there is a pot-hole that's waiting to dislodge the pod from the rubber boot and wreck havoc before I have a clue as to what's happening. So I went the safe route and cut a piece of chrome pipe for each pod to slip between the filter and the boot to give the clamp something more to hang onto (than rubber to rubber). Got two pieces of pipe at a muffler shop for $5. They are 2 1/4" OD and about 5/8" in length. (That was AFTER trying to cut the pieces myself with a hacksaw - which only served to remind me how imperfect hacksaw cutting is!) Oh yeah, and my thanks to Ray Major for warning me (ahead of time) that I would need to swap the rubber intake boots in order for the K&N filters to fit under the tank (without slightly smashing the rear filter)."  from JCASSIO
          

         Must Read Thread on DIY Pods: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=17739.1

         Excellent thread on the DIY Pods: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=17428.1

         Thread on "Cheap Pod Filters" -  http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=33326.1

          

         Pilot Thumbscrews:             BACK TO INDEX

          

         Don't forget to order your pilot thumbscrews if you don't want to use the stock ones. These Mikuni parts will fit our carbs and allow the pilot to be adjusted without the use of tools... look for these Mikuni parts. 

          

         NOTE: these are the same as the MaxAir MaxMix screws - set them accordingly (they are NOT the same as stock PMS screws!)
         
           (2) O-Ring, Fuel Screw N133.037
           (2) Washer, Fuel Screw VM12/33
           (2) Spring, Fuel Screw N133.206
           (2) Screw, Pilot Fuel 604-26003

          

               Contact Bernie at Fox Distributing to order... 630-513-9700 (Illinois)

          

         An Alternate Way:

         
         Biker Bill (wwbill_mi) : 
         
         I did the DIY air kit, and used Emgo pod filters. They fit with no problems and are cheaper than the K&N and UNI filters. see them here http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/product~pf_id~3201529~dept_id~1183583.asp -- they are only $7.00 each.
         I also used a muffler adapter that fits a 2.5 id to 2 id to make they air filter adapter, I just cut it down to a 1/2 inch longon each side.
         http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WLK%2D41958&N=700+%2D120454+115&autoview=sku

         
         Another Way - Without the POD Noise

          

         Larry_Rymal (Rymal1)

         Retained the bottom half of the stock air box, and then fitted filters on top of that - still fits under the tank - and the noise is gone!!

         Here's the link to the thread with explanation and pictures - Nice Job Larry!!!

              First, read this:
                      http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=21159.20
         
             Then read this:
                     http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=21159.37

          

         Another Low Noise Pod Setup - navistar71 (ziggy6050)

          

         I installed 1/4 in thick plastic mud-flap material cut to go over frame rails with 4 inch holes drilled through it for the POD air filters. I bolted it in place where the original air box bolted in the rear and through frame in the front. This took care of most of the pod noise.

         

          

         And Even Another Way - VStarStruC - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=30131.1

          

      2. Under Tank Pod Kits - Vendors/Manufacturers   (updated 05/22/08)            BACK TO INDEX

          

         www.metric-magic.com Dragon's Breath

         As noted earlier, this is a unique pod kit as it locates the PODS (K&N Chrome capped filters) out from under the tank, by your knees on both sides of the bike

         The following vendors provide the 'classic" under the tank solution:

          

         www.sscustomcycle.com/products/engine/v-star1100.shtml  (look for the chubby)

          

         www.metric-magic.com  (as well as Dragons' Breath)

         
         www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody41.html  

         
         www.maxairengineering.com

              Note: many forum members have complained about poor customer service from this vendor,

              and the forum experts have identified significant potential for engine damage if this product

              is installed as recommended by the vendor on bikes with catalytic convertors .

              It is strongly suggested you post to the forum if you are intending to buy this product for newer bikes.

          

         www.cycleforay.com  (look for the BEAK) - No Longer Available

          

         POD Type (K&N vs Foam) Comparison - CycleForay - Steve

          

      3. Jetting Instructions - ABC's  (updated 03/03/09)

          

         Note: Contains detailed step by step instructions, starting with tank removal and then all the steps thru completion.

          

         Excellent Jetting Article (DIY or Supplement Mfgr Instructions) -- Courtesy of Steve formerly at www.CycleForay.com 

          

         NOTE: When removing the carbs from the bike (per above instructions) remember to loosen the hold-on clamps all the way - repeat - all the way!  This will make it much easier to get the carbs back into the bike.  Also, use a little spit in the carb flanges that go into the engine "holes" - is a good temporary lube and will dry out - so the carbs will not pop out later, which can happen if you use a true lube (oil, grease, etc)

          

         Some supplemental pictures - courtesy of drenfro22:

          

            

         A.                        B.                         C.                        D.

         A. Late models - 4 Connectors to separate - Also shows breather hose (was connected to air-box)

         B. Boot connection to cylinder

         C. Boot connection to air-box (rear cycl.)

         D. Boot connection to air-box (front cycl.)

         
          

      4. Exposed POD Kits     (updated 1/30/06)              BACK TO INDEX

          

         Metric Magic (Tim Bondurant)  has designed and now implemented an alternative to the 'classic" under the tank pod kit.

          

         His product, Dragon's Breath, is described above and in detail on his site, referenced above.

          

         This section here is to trace the idea back to Joe Conaway, who had been experimenting with an alternative arrangement, and more, to the normal pods-under-the-tank air intake mod.  He has used 90 degree elbows, mounted the pods/filters out board of the carbs, one on each side,  and applied cool covers for the filters. 

          

         Some comments from Joe:

          Just figured I'd share  the air kit I made up using 400 series Ramflo filters. One on each side both are functional. Parts can be had for around $85, but there is a bit of work to get them on there.  I welded a 2 1/8 exhaust ring to the back of each filter to attach to the elbows I used. The filters can be bought with blank backing plates so a hole would also need to be made.
         
         The filters I used had two holes so one was widen and used and the other covered. To connect each filter to the respective carb I used PVC 90* 2" elbows "trimmed" to fit , and one small L bracket off the cam chain tensioner mounting bolt to support the filters. Anyway there's a bit more to it, but this will give the general idea of what was done.

          

         "The hardest part was getting the filter centered. I have aftermarket Keihin carbs which are a bit wider from open end to open end than the stock carbs. You need to use the 400cfm filter as well. I used a 2" PVC 90* elbow cut down, I welded an exhaust ring to the back of the ramflos. Then I just used a simple L bracket off one of the tensioner mount bolts the one side is the tensioner hole cover bolt, but same thing). Just took a little time fitting it and it work great. Jetting is the same as pod filters.
         
         Anyone that wants to make these can be my guest. LOL. I made one and that's it.  And Tim took it from there.

                     See Joe's discussion thread here.

          

      5. Pod Kits - Installation & Hints    (updated 06/29/09)            BACK TO INDEX

          

         1. Make your own Oil breather collection bottle -http://www.dumpit.org/reaperjr/vent.htm

            Note: Our own TimB says that it is dangerous to use steel wool - given the off chance that a piece might get sucked back into the engine and do damage.  I would suggest that a plastic mesh (scrubbie) be used instead of steel wool - all you are looking for is a lot of surface for the misty oil vapor to condense upon.

         2. Filter Pods - Foam vs K&N) --You Make The Call -- Steve Schneider, CycleForay

             

            Same subject, another view -- DaddoCFL

             

            Functionally I don’t know that any of the options are better then the others. I kind of prefer the type using K&N filters.
            
            The K&N style is a bit more expensive than Foam construction filters but having used both types for 40+ years, I think that they will outlast the (a bit) less sturdy Foam elements (albeit, the foam is relatively cheap to change). Since both types are well protected under the tank, this is almost an insignificant issue.
            
            Cleaning either type is very easy as the filter oil is water soluble and just washes off with a mild degreaser.
            
            Both types are equally good at getting dirty (lol). But aren’t you glad that they stopped the dirt and road gool from being sucked through the carbs? Cleaning frequency is a function of engine hours and riding environment. There is no single answer for you. When there is a visible coating of crud on the filters, being slightly anal retentive about such things, I clean them.

             

         3. PMS - Stock / MaxMix Thumbscrews   (updated 01/30/09)

             

            For Carb Tuning - One Stock PMS Trun EQUALS 1/2 OLD Style MaxMix Turn (2 to 1 ratio) New one Same as Stock

             

            When you rejet the carbs you will need to drill out the cover over the PMS screws, which are inset into the bottom of each carb. Once done rejetting, you can (but not easily) do your final tuning with the "buried" PMS screws, or you can replace them with the MaxMix PMS screws.  They protrude out of the bottom of the carbs, making it much easier to adjust with your finger -- or, better yet, a 1.5 to 2.0 inch long piece of rubber hose - with the right ID to fit over the thumb screw head of the screws.  In my case, big fingers and hands made the "rubber hose" trick a necessity.

             

            Some people don't like the MaxMix screws, because they have a faster/sharper taper than the stock screws, and therefore are not as fine for adjusting.  However, most who have them swear by them - and personally I have had no problem. Note: Max Air is now shipping a new style that has the same taper / profile as stock - much finer to tune with, plus long stem for tuning.

             

              Stock and Old Style MaxMix PMS screws (click pic for larger pic)

             

            Aftermarket Thumb Screws:

             

                MaxMix - Available from MaxAir

                Alternate Vendor - see Pilot Thumbscrews   -- follow the link

             

            Caution:

             

            Be careful, very careful when reinstalling your carbs if you are using newer version of the MaxMix PMS screws. Pulled my carbs abd checked the PMS setting I had done a few days before and found the rear was dead on, but the front was 0.75 turns further in that I had set it. Sure enough - the front cylinder PMS screw sticks way out/down and is right where it will hit the intake manifold rubber collar thingie as you snake the carbs back into place - and I didn't see it because I always stand on the left side when doing the install and the PMS is hidden. Not this time - leaned way over and watched like a hawk, saw that it would hit easily, and took extra pains and finally got past that "PMS shifter" and wrapped it up. -- from SilverBack

             

             

            Stick with Stock PMS Screws?

         If you decide to use the stock screws, the right tool will make it easy to do the adjustments (if I knew about this tool ahead of time, most likely would have NOT gone with the extended screws!).  Courtesy of the ever helpful Daddo, here's a link to the offset Pilot Screw Adjusting tool - $30 and does the trick. 

             http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/item.aspx?style=8015&department=646&division=6

          

             Same tool available here $20 - http://pitposse.stores.yahoo.net/popiscadto.html

          

                  

         Another tool - for only 7 bucks!! (Thanks to Vstar_in_NH)

             Finger Bit Set from Sears

          

         And Another Solution - rosskp:  Here is a picture of a screw that I soldered using an old pilot jet, can be done with JB weld, an Metal Epoxy. Make sure you don't get any on the threads.  (Note: rosskp uses a fuel line hose to grip the add-on to the screw - making it easier to grasp and twist in the confined space.)

          

                    

          

         And another: mitchyd - drilled and taped the PMS screw ran a nut up the small screw/ bolt against the head with a star washer for grip JB weld into place so doesn't vibrate apart:

         

         And another: Tundrawolf: I used a 1" Copper Rivet (Hardware store 25c a piece), Oatey Water Soluble tinning flux (for joining dissimilar metals) (Lowes Under $3 I think), a cutoff disc on my Dremel to shape the end of the Rivet -- The final result was a small slit that fit snugly into the notch of the mix screw.  Maing sure of the best alignment BEFORE trying to solder the two pieces, it is best to hold the tip of your high wattage soldering gun mostly to the rivet, and partially to the PMS screw, if the rivet is on the bottom-as heat rises.

         

          

         imnezrider (mdpar3) - Socket/driver bit...beats the heck out of pullin' carbs.

          

                   

            

         PMS Screw Location:

          

             Stock PMS screw cover location           Aftermarket PMS installed

          

                         

                      

         3. Helpful Hints on Install:

             

            SilverBack - Take it Easy

             

            Go slow -- follow both sets of directions (MaxAir's and CycleForay's) - you'll do fine and it will take you about 3 or 4 hours max
            Be extra careful of the 8 float bowl screws - they are soft headed and will tend to strip if not careful.

            3 suggestions:

            -- get a really good, properly sized Phillips head screwdriver, place it in the screw head, give a tap or two with a light hammer to ensure the driver is seated well - apply plenty of downward pressure (see next item for proper base to work on
            -- get yourself a big roll of duck/duct tape - not to tape with, but to use as a stand to set the carb pair on - to give yourself a stable platform for the application of downward pressure on the screws as you turn them out.
            -- and, get yourself a small pair of needle nosed vice-grips - they will let your tightly grip any stripped screw head for final removal if you have a problem. Plus this is a valuable tool to have with you at all times!

            
            If you are not doing this yourself, a competent dealer mechanic should be able to do this whole thing in no more than 2 hours - so use that and the dealer's rates to guesstimate the cost of going that route - and ask for a firm quote to do the work!

            
            But, don't be "afraid" of trying this - it is a snap -- really! PS - As a novice, I did the jetting and put on a new set of pipes - all in 2.5 hours

             

            Carb Bowl Cover Screw - Caution

            NOTE: One thing to be careful of when opening up your carbs - the 8 screws that hold on the bowls are SOFT and subject to buggering easily. Here's some advice that bears following:

            Skypirate: I've read several posts about stubborn float bowl screws and thought I would share this with ya'll. I'm an aircraft mechanic which means I spend WAY too much time dealing with boogered up Philips heads. Small aircraft have thousands of 'em and I find that the last guy to close those panels just doesn't care if I'm the next guy to open them. So I keep a can of coarse valve grinding paste in my tool box. Just dip the tip of your screw driver in the paste and it gives it a fantastic grip in the screw head. Also a bit of a tap on the end of the screw driver with a hammer will help to brake the screw free.

            Permatex makes a water based compound that's pretty easy to find. It comes in a tube and you can get it at just about any auto parts store. I like the oil based stuff best and I think I got my last can at NAPA. Small can will last almost forever.
            
            For you guys that are just starting out with your tools get a screwdriver that uses replaceable bits and toss the bit as soon as it shows any wear. Nothing can wreck a Philips head faster than a worn bit.

            SilverBack: if you do screw up a screw head: try attaching a vice-grip pliers to the shaft of your screwdriver, holding it firmly with one and pressing in on the driver and the other twisting with the vice-grips - this can be aided with a tap on the screw as noted in Skypirate's comments.

            Throttle Valve "Finger" Emergency Repair

            If you break off one of the little plastic 'fingers" - here's a fix  Jack Phelps
             

      6. Single Carb      (updated 09/25/06)         BACK TO INDEX

          

         1. KJS Single Carb Manifold - Visit KJS Owners Forum   Visit KJS Motorcycle Works

             

            Comments by White Wing (latent_image):

            -- Low end torque is improved and moved lower in the rpm band but peak HP is pretty much stock.
            -- A lot of the folks are experimenting with different carbs and working out the details. A roadie carb is pretty popular as well as some flat slide carbs.
            -- The install of the actual manifold is a very touchy procedure. The manifold is rigid and connects to both cylinders and has to be bonded in place and small errors results in air leaks and a do-over with a 24 hour cure time. Kind of fussy procedure.
            -- You know the way the kit comes you are supposed to dismantle you stock carbs, separate them and drill out some jets, not for the faint of heart. LOL

             

            Comments by Vstar_in_NH (Jack Rosa):
            I've done a lot of DYNO work with the KJS. The KJS will give you such a boost in torque if you are not holding onto the bars tight you'll fall off. I've run the pod style air kit and the KJS, dynoed both and my peak HP was within 2 hp, BUT the torque was 89lbs with the KJS! The bike will launch off the line HARD. The torque is so awesome that you just roll it on and the bike goes. No down shifting, fantastic for touring in the hills or rippin on the slab. The best combo I've found is the KJS with a used 40mm flat slide HD replacement carb. I got 92lbs torque and 56hp! The best part, the sound! I pull into a parking lot full of other bike HD, etc and they all look at mine and usually come over to see what I've got in her. Check out my website, I have movies so you can see and hear the setup. DYNO charts, reviews, pictures, etc.... For a stock engine nothing gives you pull/acceleration like the KJS. Another cool thing is it cleans up all the crap between the cylinders and runs cooler. You can put air horns under your tank too.... Ohhh ya, no more synch'n.  His web site: http://vstar1100.froggbox.com/kjs.htm

             

            Reality - Tradeoff's - Comments by KROME STAR (GatewayStar)

            In one of these KJS posts, someone mentioned trying to use the KJS to improve low end torque, and high rpm cams to hit the other end of the spectrum....just wanted to point out that it won't work. I had considered the same idea at one point, but had to dismiss it. You'd be pissing your money away on the cams, as they won't have the desired effect on top end.
            
            Why? Because the KJS flows like crap. Not that it's Ken's fault - you simply CAN'T flow air well with a 90+ degree bend in your intake system/head port. The manifold helps low end power because of a widely known principle...longer runners aid in power production at lower rpms. Just make sure you know that for every bit of added power down low, you are giving it up later in the power band. In this instance, there is no "free" power gain. Unfortunately I don't have charts specific to this situation to illustrate, but given the angle of the port and the necessary design of a single carb manifold, it's elementary science that laminar flow goes out the window at higher RPMs.
            
            That said...what do you want from your engine and mods? Typically one seeks one of two goals - peak hp or torque in a given range, or most added power 'under the curve', referring to the Dyno graph. In the case of a single carb manifold, you will get greater power numbers in the lower end of the rpm range, but your curve will dive below stock somewhere mid graph.
            
            The alternative is cams and high compression pistons - they'll add power through the entire range. Roughly the same investment in parts, but it does involve pulling your cylinders, which is typically a more challenging task for most DIY wrenchers. The payoff is more power under the curve, usable across the entire power band. While stronger than stock down low, it will likely not match the numbers available with the single manifold option. It can't, as the short intake length limits those numbers. But that same short run is responsible for greater gains in the higher rpm range.
            
            Obviously there is a niche market that demands more torque from the V-Star engine, designed for mid-range oomph, even at the expense of usable power later in the power band. But there seems to be a bit of evangelism going on here, and I'm afraid some folks are going to be influenced to make a power band trade-off they ultimately aren't happy with.
            
            Gary

             

            Cruzmystar KJS Install and Comments - thread link  (added 05/17/07)
             

            Jack's Page on the Install of the KJS

             

      7. Fuel Injection  (updated 01/25/07)            BACK TO INDEX

         Nothing available at this time.

          

         Some initial work was performed by jack LaRosa up in NH, but progress was suspended due to that age old :bugaboo" of progress - $$ and time. perhaps someone will pick up the ball and move this forward.

          

      8. Turbo Charging    (updated 12/29/07)             BACK TO INDEX

          

                   Nick (cruzmystar) has done it!!  Turbo 1100!!! Announced at 2:36 pm 12/129/07 in this thread on the forum:

                     http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=29920.1

          

                   His comments from the first post in the thread:

         Well, for the most part it's done.  I've got some small little things to do left but it is up and running. 

         Eventually I'll replace the intercooler with a custom sized one (much smaller) as this one is a little big but for now it was relatively inexpensive and will do the job. Paint still needs to have the final cut and buff as well.  Once we get a little bit nicer weather I'll get it out on the road for some more tuning.  Then it's off to the DYNO. 

         I'm shooting for around the 120hp range.  In theory, if everything will hold, it could put out 130-140hp but I doubt I'll push it that much.  I'll probably start the tuning at around 5psi of boost and end up at around 7psi. 

         Here's some of the more technical stuff for those that are interested.  It's a Garrett GT15 turbo pushing through an HS40 carb (for now) and a custom intake manifold.  I decided to built an intake myself to solve the uneven runner length/diameter issue with the KJS intake.  I think i can get it tuned in with the HS40 but i think eventually I'll put an S&S carb on there because i am a little paranoid about the slide sticking in the HS40 when i put a lot of boost to it. 

         I also need to give a special thanks to the following people for helping me make this happen either with parts to just sharing knowledge.... Rick Zlacket at (Honeywell/Garrett), SS custom cycles, AGP Turbo, Dave Boyd (top fuel drag bike builder), Stahl's headers, Rob Appell (Painter), Nick at Trask Performance, and everyone else who I'm forgetting.

         ~nick

         Pictures of "Hitman":

            

         Dyno Results - Tuned Up - from 10/18/08 Cruzmystar post:

         Finally! It only took a little over a year but I made it down to the Dyno today. Spent almost 5hrs there getting the bike tuned in but we did it!

         112.05hp and 102.65ft/lb of torque! Man, what a stinkin' rocket! Not quite the 120hp I wanted but overall I'm very happy.

         This run was on the SAE setting and with the smoothing at 5. That's a pretty conservative setting and I think is the most realistic. Uncorrected hp was about 116 but I think that's cheating and most people thinks it's more fair to compare numbers at SAE. At least we now what a stock engine is capable of holding up to because that was at 19.5psi of boost which is WAY more than I was planning on putting to it but I just had to get well over the 100hp mark.

         BG! As you can see the torque curve is insane holding max torque from about 4000rpm all the way to 6500rpm. I ran the bike on 110 octane fuel just to be on the safe side and it's now tuned down to 92.5hp and 12psi of boost so I can run 92 octane in it.

         At one point I had the boost up to 22psi but the hp started to drop and exhaust gas temp was reaching a melt down level so we found the max flow for this turbo. I think with a bigger turbo I could easily get into the 120-130hp range but I'll sacrifice the quick spooling that it does now so I doubt I'll change it. Last run of the day after we tuned it down and it finally ate the front cylinder's coil so new coils and wires are now needed. At least nothing on the inside saw the light of day so I'm happy!

         I think the only future changes will be switching back to a flat slide carb. Not a big fan with the S&S that I've got on there now. It's a tad too big and doesn't have near the neck snap at initial crack that the Mikuni did. Another thing to learn from all this is it really proves a point that the intermediate shaft isn't a weak link in itself and the failures are more of a fluke thing than anything.
         
         

                   Here's an older thread - A thread on turbo ideas

          

      9. Air Cleaner Replacement (functional/cosmetic)  (updated 03/17/08)            BACK TO INDEX

          

         1. Zambini Covers

         2. Yamaha Speedstar Cover Look-a-like for 1100

                    Thread on ISRA Discussing this & Jetting

         3. Tony Anzalone's Air Scoop From Factory Air Cleaner