>> Last Updated: 06/26/2008 01:25 PM Central Time <<

6. Lights                (Back to Topics)

Hazards Mods   Headlight (Adjust, Bulbs, Replace, Delayed On, Modulate)   Headlight Visor Install   Light Bars/Passing Lamps   Tail Light (Bulbs, Wires, Lens, Modulate, Convert)  Turn Signals    Relocation: Plate  Supplemental Lights (LED, Neon, Tape)   Passing Lamp Bulbs  Classic Headlight on Custom  Skull Mount Left Side Skull Mount Right Side

1. Headlights  (Adjust, Bulbs, Replace, Delayed On, Modulate)

    

   1. Adjusting your headlights   (updated 7/287/06)

       

      Screws: If you look at the headlight straight on, You will see screws at the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions. These are the ones to adjust.

      Instructions with diagrams & measurement distances: http://www.star-riders.org/starcruiser/volume4-1/headlight.html

       

   2. Headlight Replacement Bulbs   (updated 12/12/07)

       

      H4 is Motorcycle Specific - or - 9003 Automotive, the same thing!

       

      Daddo (DaddoCFL):

      Your headlight is just a garden Variety H4 automotive bulb and the same as ’s XTra Vision bulb. Philips makes one of the same type as well. You will find them in Wal-Mart’s Automotive section for between $7 and $9 each depending on the brand. I paid $17.87 of a two pack of the Sylvanias. (From a motorcycle magazine ad.: “The H4 is specifically designed for motorcycles” – That’s advertising crap. . . It’s the same bulb that goes into a lot of cars.)

      
      The Silver Stars are more expensive, I seem to remember about $12 bucks each or you can get them from Amazon for $19.95 each.  The H4 Silver Star High Performance Halogen headlight is a dual filament light that has filaments for both high & low beam. The H4 is specifically designed for motorcycles maximum 55W/60W).

       

      Hawqstar aka H*:

      
      OSRAM SilverStar H4, has been repeatedly voted as the best stock wattage bulb available and is probably better in beam quality than a lot of over wattage bulbs. Best price is $27.80/pair here:
           http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=17184&Category_Code=osram
      
      For more information check out: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/  (Gernaeral & specific tech info on lighting)
      
      I changed my headlight bulb to an OSRAM SYLVANIA SILVERSTAR and noticed a great improvement over the stock bulb. Still a 55/60 watt bulb as the stock bulb, but a much brighter, whiter light.
      
      The H4-ST is motorcycle specific, but the 9003 (for automobiles) works just as well. Same size, dimensions as the H4, but more accessible (available everywhere) and about half the price as the H4.

       

      More headlight Bulb Info - worth reading: (Thanks to "Nubbin-Head" (WDfrmTN)

       

      http://www.candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/H4_9003.pdf
      
      Here's a good wattage/candlepower/lumens comparison: http://www.rallylights.com/hella/H4.asp
       

   3. Replacing the Headlight Reflector/Assembly  (updated 02/24/08)

       

      Procedure:  (Courtesy of VSTARPAUL, one our Canadian members)

       

      Take the two screws out...the trim & headlight come out as one. You will have to unplug the unit to pull out the light.

       

      Then with a black magic marker. Indicate on the two long screws ( the ones that adjust the aiming ) where they meet up with the white plastic square washer. This will help later on when you re-assemble it and you wont have to re-aim the whole thing again from scratch.
      
      Take out those long screws.
      
      Then there is a " W " shaped steel clip that holds the headlight in the chrome trim ring. Open that up and it should pop off.

      Do yourself a favor and draw a line picture on how the clip is positioned in there. You'll understand why.

                             how it goes back together
      
      Then there are three small screws that hold another small metal ring around the headlight. Unscrew those.
      
      The headlight is now out.  Install is the reverse.  Get some dielectric grease and put it on the connections before plugging it all together again.

       

      SilverBack's Adjure Cut Ice Headlight Assembly  (Note: Does Not work with 1100 Custom Stock Headlight, except 1999)

       

      SilverBack: This was the best $70 I have ever spent from a safety standpoint. When aimed properly the new assembly is better than the best car lights I have ever seen. Low beam is flat across the top (minimum on coming driver impact) with excellent spread. The high beam just blazes down the road, almost like a spot light, with no danger of being able to "over ride" the light.

       

   4. Headlight Delayed On - Remove Load During Cranking 

       

      vstar4u posted this on the ISRA forum - good idea, cool implementation - V Star 1100 Headlight Delay (pdf)

       

   5. Headlight Modulators

       

      1. Discussion:

          

         The NHTSB has ruled that headlight modulators are legal (and grandfathered into every US state) providing they modulate within a specified number of modulations per minute, providing they automatically change to constant on with lower light levels approximating dusk and night, and if they fail safe to automatic "on all of the time". The NHTSB has approved specs for such headlight modulators as a means of greatly improving the visibility of Motorcycles.

          

      2. Vendors / Manufacturers

          

         http://www.headlightmodulator.com/  $50 - much cheaper than Kisan - but no personal experience - same functionality

          

         Kisan Pathfinder Headlight Modulator $110 (Available direct from Mfgr and also thru Kuryakyn and other sources)

         SilverBack: I have and love this product - easy to install, works as described - 2 yrs = 0 problems. Open headlight bucket, unplug bike plug from light bulb, plug in the Kisan, plug bike plug into Kisan, run light sensor out of bucket to someplace you can zip-tie it to point to sky, reassemble bucket - done!  Also can be programmed for other than default configuration (I used default)

2. Light Bars / Passing Lamps   (updated 02/10/07)

   Note: For Color-Coding of Wires in Head & Tail Lights, see Adding Circuits

   1. Yamaha (updated 02/26/06)

       

      Discussion:

      mitchelguitar:

      The passing lights for the V Star 1100 require the wire to pass through the socket head bolt that holds the light to the turn signal. To properly tighten this bolt requires that you modify a number 6 Allen key so the wire will pass through it. To modify the Allen key take 3 heavy duty Dermal cutting wheels and place them together on the same shaft. Cut a slot down the short length of the key about ¼ of the way down into the key. This simple tool will save hours of aggravation. 

       

      Replacement Bulbs

      Discussion: (John Daub)

      A question I've seen crop up lately on the forums has been getting a similar bulb for the Yamaha passing lamps (can't comment on other vendor passing lamps). I was told the proper replacement is a Silverstar H3-ST. I read somewhere that you have to be careful as there are different wattages of that bulb and you have to get the 35W version (if it exists - so far folks only can find 555w version). I haven't confirmed all of this information yet, but that's what I've read on the forum and been told when I posted.

       

   2. Other Vendors'

       

   3. DIY - Light Bars

       

      Vstar1100.com DIY Passing Lamps

       

   4. Alternatives to Light Bars (updated 6/2/06)

       

      SilverBack's Silver Bullet DIY Lights on Front 

      70 watts of halogen light blazing down the road - makes bike super visible to other traffic and minimizes the change of the appearance of the stock bike. Easy to do, and not too expensive.

       

      Daddo's HD Fog Lamps - see the thread and then go to his pics via his sig link

       

      CarToad1: Cost 14.95 at Walmart, 55 watt halogen. Thread:

          http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=14431.1

       

3. Other Supplemental Lights

    

   1. Neon's

       

   2. LED's  (updated 12/15/07)

      1. Sources:

         http://www.superbrightleds.com/

          

      2. DIY Load Equalizers for LED Turn Signals (updated 8/08/06)

          

         From: ssgduck -- instructions on how to build your own load equalizers. Parts are available from radio shack for less than $10. The diodes placed in at the speedo housing is also needed, unless you pull the indicator light bulb out. Let me know if you have any questions. I did not mess with the wires under the speedo on my 1100 when I had it. I placed the diodes for the indicator in the wire harness on the bike side of the tank wire harness connector.

          

         Click pix below to get diagram, parts numbers, instructions:

          

         

          

         Dale's Diagram - wiring done under the seat at the "major" connector:  (updated 12/15/07)

         

      3. Thread on wiring "just the rear signals" with no front signals planned - with LEDs  (updated 12/20/07)

          

         A lot of info, so read it all the way through.

              http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=29667.1

          

          

   3. Reflectors, Reflecting Tape

       

4. Tail Lights (updated 8/21/06)

    

   1. Wire Colors:

       

      Blue-Brake, Red-Tail, Green-Rt turn, Brown- Left signal.

       

   2. Clear Lenses, Etc

       

      Metric-Cruiser.com

       

   3. Red Bulbs / Lenses

       

      Discussion thread:  http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=16548.1

       

   4. Plate Relocation

       

      ZIV License Plate Side Mount Kit

      cycotic cycles Plate Relocation

      MeanCycles.com Plate Relocation

      Zoom Cycle & Performance

      Chrome Whore

      Pacific Coast Star

       

   5. Tail Light Modulators  (updated 3/03/06)

       

      1. Discussion:

          

         Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) suggests that you pump your brakes at each stop - for greater visibility and to gain the attention of following vehicles (flashing lights more attention grabbing than solid on light. Taillight modulators perform this flashing automatically. As soon as you tap your brakes, drivers behind you will see a rapid flash of the brake lights. This sudden flashing invokes immediate attention.
          

      2. Vendors / Manufacturers

          

         Kisan TailBlazer Taillight Modulator   (Available direct from Mfgr and also thru Kuryakyn and other sources)

         SilverBack: I have this - works like a charm. Open taillight housing, pull old bulb, put in Kisan, close it up - works!  Modulator circuitry is built into the bulb base - replaceable 20w halogen G4 bulb (extra came with the original) - used for 2 years still working OK. Step on brake, get bright flash and then decreasing frequency of flash until solid on - stays on until brake released, starts over each new application of brakes.

         Custom Dynamics: http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm

          

         Throttle (rcapozzi): Custom Dynamics makes a "plug n' play" LED tail light for the V-stars. They also offer a brake light module that will pulse the brake lights when applied. It's an excellent product. I use this setup and it is much brighter than the OEM setup and much more noticeable. This link has both the LED kit for the tail light and (at the bottom) the brake light module to rapidly flash the brake lights.
         
         AeroStich - http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Flashing-Halogen-Taillight-Bulb-p-16989.html

          

         Comagination : http://comagination.com/modBike.htm combo deal - haed and tail light modulators

          

   6. Combining Tail / Running / Stop lights - Various Configurations / Alternatives

       

      1. Convert Rear Turn Signals to Running Light Combo

          

         1. Change out stock single  sockets to dual filament sockets, wiring the extra wire into the running light circuit (see manual wiring diagram). Auto stores carry the dual filament sockets.

             

      2. Convert to Combo Run / Turn / Brake Lights

          

         Light the Night

          

         Tail Light Conversion - Road Star, works here too

          

         Loren's Midnight Star Conversion

             - Dual filament sockets, trailer control module, red lenses or amber ones painted with candle-apple-red paint.

         Radiantz LED Conversion

             - High intensity red running, High Intensity red brake and amber turn. Load Equalizer Required.

             - Receives lotsa kudos for brightness, good value even if pricey (as are any LEDS)

         Electrical Connection

             - Adds LEDs to current Eyebrow

             - Pierre Bellehumeur - Turn Signal Conversion Kit Installation (pictures)

         Yamaha Royal/Road/V Star tail light

          

         Clear Alternatives

          

         Custom Dynamics

          

   7. LEDs for replacement (updated 03/27/06)

       

      http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm

       

   8. Supplemental Rear Lights  (updated 01/10/07)

       

      SilverBack's Silver Bullet LED Brake & Running Lights

      A pair of super bright red LEDs as added running lights, and another pair as alternative brake lights.  Excellently visible by other drivers, with minimal change in the appearance of the stock bike.  Easy to do, and not too expensive.

       

      James McKeown's Added Tail Light and Mudulator

      $10 to add an LED light to the top of the plat holder - and the separate addition of a Back Off modulator

       

5. Turn Signals  (updated 05/05/08)

    

   1. LED replacements - See Tail Lights Above

       

   2. Replacement Turn Signal Bulbs

       

      Zepman:  Avoiding the costly 3 pin OEM replacement bulb.

       

      Up here in Canada I went to the local Yamaha dealer to get a replacement bulb (1157) for my front turn indicator. I was totally shocked that the price was 18.50 +15% tax. I saw that the only difference was that the OEM bulb had three (3) locking pins whereas the regular 1157 has two. SO, I went home with a regular 1157 and after comparing the two bulbs (lining up the contacts) I came up with this.

       

      Take the new bulb with two (2) locking pins and file off the upper pin (the pin closest to the bottom of the bulb) and insert the bulb with the lower pin at approx the 4-5 o'clock position. Insert and twist to lock. Works great.

       

   3. Integrating with tail light - See Tail Lights Above

       

6. Hazard Warning Mods  (updated 01/11/08)

    

   1. DIY V*Star 1100 Hazard Light Modification  

       

      

       

      Pedro  Switch Location

       

   2. Silverback's LED Flasher Addition/Modification:   (updated 12/03/07)

       

      Added a custom made Emergency Flasher system to front and back of the bike.  The system is controlled by a remote that lets me have off/on and 4 different flash speeds. 

       

      Mounted a pair of 6-LED red clusters on the back of my trunk bag (now moved to a pair of aluminum L-brackets screwed on by the rear reflectors), and amber ones on the fork down tubes in the front of the bike.  Chose a remote because it gave me always-on or 4 variable flash speeds and the ability to mount the remote anywhere on the bike - and gave me the ability to activate the flashers when away from the bike.  Got all my parts here:  http://www.customdynamics.com/courtesy_lights.htm for total of about $115 (for front, back, control).  Bright as hell! Easy Install

    

7. Plate Relocation - see above

    

8. Classic Headlight on Custom     (updated 03/17/07)

    

   Question: 

   I'm hoping someone  who has switched over the headlight from the Custom to the Classic version can advise me on what was done to make the Classic bracket fit the Custom holes in the bottom of the trees. The Classic spacing of the holes ( gap ) is narrower than what is there. What do I do to the bracket to match it up ? Do I put a Dremel tool to it and cut out a slot and then use a washer on top ?

    

   Answer: (ClassicSteve):

   I slotted the Classic bracket like you mentioned. Then, I purchased two 1/4 inch stainless steel carriage bolts (the round flat heads with the square on the top of the threads) The square fits nicely into the newly cut slot and then I used flat washers lock washers and a nylon lock nut. The head of the carriage bolt is a nice finish! Worked great!
    

9. Left Side Skull Mount  (updated 03/17/08)

   Bolt spacing, etc - from cobb Another one:

    

   cobb's Instructions:

    

   First off, there's a thread that I based my work on here: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=22021.18
   
   The skull Wires are as follows.

   
      Brown = Power
      White = Earth
      Yellow Wire and Green Wire = Brakes
   
   Ok, here's what I did.
   
   I got 2 x 4 pin quick connectors so I could disconnect them easily and cut off the existing flat connectors and rewired them. I made sure that I wired them both identically -

      Top Left - Brown (power),

      Top right - White (Earth),

      Bottom Left = Green,

      Bottom Right = Yellow.
   
   I use 3 different colors of wire on the Bike side of the terminals.
   
      Black = Earth
      Red = Power
      Brown = Brakes
   
   Remove RH battery cover and using a splice connector splice the Earth/Ground wire into the thin black wire that runs off your Negative Battery cable. Leave about 4" so you can tuck the splice connector away out of sight easily.
   
   The RED wire now needs to be spliced into the Headlight wire or into a power wire that is on when the ignition is turned on. You will need a Circuit tester to go find this. I think I used the Blue Wire in the main core that comes down the Frame...followed the wire to under the Seat and spliced it in there.
   
   Ok, now if you want the eyes to glow brighter when the brakes are on then wire them into the Rear Brake wire. This is the bundle of cables that goes into the rear fender. Remove it from its tidy clamps and then unwind some of the tape, and using your circuit tester TEST to make sure you get the Brake Wire....have someone activate the brakes on/off/on/off till you are sure you got the right wire...don't just assume it IS the yellow wire. Once you have it, then splice your remaining wire into this one as far under the seat pan as you can.
   
   TEST to make sure everything lights up and works fine...?? If all works then get a roll of BLACK insulation tape and re-wrap everything well to ensure it is now moisture proof.
   
   Cheers - Cobb

    

   Instructions - another version: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=30682.6

    

10. Right Side Skull Mount   (updated 03/17/08)

    

     

    See instructions above for wiring

11. Headlight Visor Install  (updated 08/16/07)

    Install Instructions PDF file

    Thanks to H* - who passes along this advice: Be careful to attack the right screws and watch out for the spring clip inside the ring...

     

     

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