V*Star 1100 KB (FAQ)

>> Last Updated: 07/02/2008 10:03 AM Central Time <<

8. Other Electrical (Back to Topics)

Adding Circuit (How-To, Relays, Taps, Wiring) Batteries Charging System Cigarette Lighter / Outlet Coils Keys/Blanks Relay Wiring Replacement Dash/Speedo Starters Speedometers Coils Wiring Diagrams US TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)

Starters (updated 05/16/08)
1. Defective Starters - Twisted Bolts - Bad Starter Clutch
  
  It appears the prime "suspect" in the dreaded "clunk" leading to twisted starter bolts (and also to starter clutch failure) is the improper use of the throttle (right hand!) when starting the bike. Advancing the throttle causes the TPS (throttle Positioning Sensor) to "misread" and to cause a kickback - the full power of which is directed at the flimsy internal structure of the starter. See the next two items on proper starting technique - and avoid the problem.
  
  See the following articles for more info on what happens,
  
  V-Star 1100 Starter Clutch Page - Best Picture on the Problem (link broken)
  
  The Problem - Definition, what to look for, pictures - very good
  
  Another Look at the problem - inside the starter
  
  A Potential Preventative Measure - look like it might work. http://www.collierscustomcycles.com/V-Starter.html (link is dead)
  
  Fixing the Twisted Bolt Problem - DIY - link to excellent thread - work by Tundrawolf
  
  Starter One-Way Clutch Replacement Joe Conway
  
  Note: Here is an updated parts list - use instead of the one in the article:
  
  5EL-15517-11-00 GEAR, IDLER 2 (updated part number)
  93310-5720G-00 bearing
  5EL-15590-00-00 one way clutch
  5EL-81890-01-00 new updated starter (only if needed)
  90201-72008-00 washer plate
  93440-68180-00 cir-clip
  5EL-15451-00-00 gasket
  93102-12321-00 OIL SEAL, SD-TYPE (added)
  
  Note from Joe on the above: Make sure you read those directions carefully (I wrote them). If you have any questions contact me by e-mail joe91898@aol.com Forget the sheave holder you wont find one. You will have to use an impact gun on the nut. If you don't have a compressor and gun you will need to rent or borrow
2. Proper Starting Technique - Avoid/Minimize Clunks Shifting into 1st (updated 2/20/06)
  
  Per the manual, always start the bike in neutral: helps with the issue below and lets you better handle the wet clutch on this bike. Once started, squeeze and release the clutch a couple of times, then shift into 1st - should minimize the cold bike, cold oil, wet clutch "clunk".
3. Proper Starting Technique - Avoid Starter Backlash / Clanks (updated 7/17/06)
  
  The “choke” on an 1100 is not really a choke at all. It is a idle advance/enrichment device (that does NOT use the throttle butterfly) (yeah, I know the owner’s manual calls it a “choke”, but that was written by the guys who hid the oil filter under the exhaust pipe). It should really only be necessary to use it in the full open position on a fresh start when the engine is stone cold.
  
  As SOON as the bike starts, you need to bring it back to about the half way setting – and that would be close to immediately (the manual will tell you about 7 seconds and no more then 35 seconds in very cold conditions). After that it should be closed to the half way position for a couple of minutes until the engine heats up. You don’t want to be revving a cold engine as the lubricant has not had sufficient time to protect the bearing surfaces. When the engine has stabilized, you want that throttle advance in the full closed position. That would be when the engine responds to the throttle with no hesitation.
  
  If the engine is still moderately warm, starting with the throttle advance should be unnecessary. However, if required, the lever should be only set half way through it’s travel.
  
  --- Daddo (Larry Marino)
Charging System (updated 05/24/07)
1. Troubleshooting
  
  Troubleshooting the charging system - PDF file
  
  Norwestars Newsletter Article - http://www.norwestars.org/docs/1100ChargingSystem_03.pdf
  
  From Posts (authors not captured):
  
  Rectifier—Regulator:
  
  Headlight problem is usually an indication of your voltage regulator gone bad. You can check this yourself if you have a multimeter at home. Check the voltage anywhere you have unswitched line volts (battery). If your voltage is over approx.14.5 volts you have a problem, you will quite often see between 15 and 22 volts with this problem. Remember though that often this is an intermittent problem so you may want to leave the meter on while you rev the engine or your headlight gets bright again. If you leave this problem alone it will lead to destruction of your battery and possible failure of other electrical components.
  
  Sounds like it could be the rectifier. You'll have to test both the battery and rectifier. Volt meter the battery, which should be about 12.5-12.8 volts. Test the battery~ hook up the voltmeter to the battery and start the bike (on draw test). If the volts drop below 10.5 at startup the battery is done. Test the rectifier~ hook up the voltmeter at the battery while the bike is running. Twist the throttle. The volts should fluctuate between 12.8 and 14.6. If the volts are over 14.6 or the volt range doesn't change then the rectifier is cooked.
2. Electrical load
  1. Norwestars Newsletter: Current / Capacity Data
3. Voltage Regulator Cooling (updated 07/304/07)
  
  ROGUE50: I drilled some holes in the cover on the front side. Don't know if they will help but seemed like a good idea to pull more air in around the regulator. I laid out a line and made equal spaced marks then used a unibit to cut to 1/2". The unibit cuts cleaner than a regular bit as this cover is chromed plastic.
4. High Output Stator - ElectroSport Industries, Electrex USA Ltd.
  
  Status:
  
  There is an issue with overheating on the new heavy duty regulators.
  
  Electrosport is working to correct the problem
  
  READY TO ORDER
  
  When you order, CALL THE ORDER IN!!!
  
  Let them know your a forum member, and if your on the email list.
  
  https://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_electrical_yamaha_star.html
  1-888-369-8359 9am - 5pm Pacific Time
  
      Stator ESG610             Regulator ESR440
  
      Retail $179.00              Retail $119.00
  
  Note: electro sport's website is in the process of being updated. The specs are better than listed.
  
  What it provides:
  
  At idle, output slightly below the stock stator, but at 2,500rpm cruise level, 33amps / 430watta - about 65% more than stock.
  
      Note: Stock Stator Output: about 84 watts at idle & about 260 watts at cruising speed (~2500 rpm)
  
          (Vs. Manual saying 350 watts [24 amps] at 5000 rpm)
  
  Testing Results:
  
  Norwestars Output Comparison Graph http://s180867979.onlinehome.us/links/photos/1100stats.gif
  
  Installation:
  
  Preliminary Change-out Instructions - Stator: http://www.norwestars.org/docs/VStar1100StatorChange.pdf
  
  Note: You will need left side Crankcase Gasket - Part Number: 5EL-15461-00-00
  
          Excellent source is Tim Bondurant - a.k.a. Metric Magic (TimB1007) via email mailto:bondurant@zianet.com
Coils (updated 03/20/07)

mitchelquita:

I swapped out the stock coils for Nology PFC-30-S because of the higher voltage (45,000) and a rise time that twice as fast as the stock. I have read on the Road Star forum of stock coils leaking voltage and figured the Vstar had to be the same.

There were two types I considered: Dyna and Nology. I when with the Nology for the following reasons: Higher output voltage 45K vs. 30K for the Dyna, faster rise time Nology at least twice as fast as the Dyna, and finally price, the Nology were purchased through a Parts Unlimited dealer for $106 per set vs. the Dyna for $175. Here are the links check them out for yourself: http://www.nology.com/profiremotor.html and http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/products/metric_cruisers/coils/ -- The model number is PFC 30 S, they are 3ohms single high tension tower.

The fit in really easy as there are smaller than the stock ones. I had to add a 3 inch piece of steel as a mounting bracket. I took a 6 inch steel ruler and cut it in half. Drill a 1/4 hole on each end and bolted them in. I have done this to mine and a friends V Star. Start to finish 30 minutes.

Wires: I used a set of 8 mm for a HD they fit like they were made for it. The stock coils have one wire about 12 inches long and the other coil has a wire about 4 inches long. The short wire goes to the front cylinder and long one to the rear. Taylor’s are really a good brand of wires and they come in different colors. I used the Talyor 8MM ones. Cost about $15. dollars (Prices from 03/07)

Another souces for Nology Style coils - from AZsvt :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HARLEY-DAYTONA-TWIN-TEC-MINI-COILS-NOLOGY-STYLE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35557QQitemZ4642023669

Dyna Coils & Wires Available from S&S Custom Coils @ $150 (04/08)

Installing Dyna Coils - SilverBack

No pics - but the mounting of the Dyna coils is very, very straight forward.

(BTW - would be almost impossible to get good picture - given where the coils sit - and I don't want to take the tank and filters off again - might try when I get the tank off next -- but they really won't help much.)

First, as Dyna suggests in their instructions, make a diagram of how your existing coils are wired in - all the wires and where they attach (including your tach wires, if applicable)

Mount the coils in the same place and with the same orientation as the stock coils being replaced (meaning - keep the plug wire connector aimed the same way).

The Dyna coils are a little wider than the stock ones, so a slight tweak of the mounting tabs on the bike is needed. Once you remove the stock coils, use a set of channel lock pliers - for the off-set jaws and the leverage they provide. Grasp each of the mounting tabs on the bike (two for each coil) and bend the end of each tab down about 1/2 inch. Using the longer bolts provided, test fit and bend down a little more, if needed.

Make note of the raised red dot next to one of the Dyna coil spade connectors - that is the positive terminal.

Using your diagram, rewire the new coils, attach your new (hopefully) wires between plugs and coils.

Coil discussion thread: http://forums.delphiforums.com/star_riders/messages?msg=81750.1

and another one: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=21883.1
Batteries (updated 10//14/07)

Stock battery - YT14-B4 12 Amp Hours and 135 Cold Cranking Amps - 6"L x 2 3/4"W x 5 3/4" H

Replacement Battery: Mark Garetz did the research, see link below

    -- Slightly larger size (IT FITS!), more capacity, more available, lower cost

    -- YTX14-BS (key info: TX14-BS) 12 amp Hours and 200 Cold Cranking Amps - 6"L x 3 7/16"W x 5 3/4" H (11/16" fatter)

    -- Batteries Plus (local source) - $49.99 -Charlottesville, Va on 2/6/06

Vstar 1100 Battery Replacement Options - Mark Garetz's vstar1100.com

Battery Care & Feeding Article (uncovered by H*) Motorcycle Consumer News

Note: The larger battery may interfere with getting the cover back on if you have large diameter aftermarket pipes.

There is no problem if you have stock pipes,2-1 or small diameter aftermarket 2-2.

Whitestar246: I discovered this problem while trying to use the YTX14-BS on an 03 Classic with HK pipes. It fits in perfectly, but the cover will not pass between the top pipe and the lower front corner of the battery. It is the same issue for both Custom and Classic.

Battery Tenders:

Question: onionfmr - want to install a Battery Tender Junior on my 2005 V-Star 1100 Classic. Would like to use ring terminals connected to battery terminals in a semi-permanent installation so that I can just plug charger in to quick connector to charge the battery. Have done this on other bikes w/o problem. Yamaha owner's manual and service manual talk about using a special "constant" voltage battery charger or damage will result to the diodes in the rectifier. Talked to Battery Tender personnel, they said just do it, shouldn't be a problem. Not comfortable with the shouldn't be a problem comment! For the winter, I've pulled the battery and am charging it off the bike. When I reinstall it this spring, I would like to use the ring terminals. Would be nice to be able to plug the charger in, if the bike will being sitting for awhile unused, w/o having to pull battery cover and disconnect battery leads.

Does anyone have any experience (couple of years usage) installing a battery tender as I suggest? Don't want to cause damage to electrical components over the long haul. Thanks in advance for input and feedback

Answer: daddoCFL - The Battery Tender Plus and Jr. battery chargers deliver 1.25 amperes during bulk charge mode, holds the battery charge voltage constant at 14.4 VDC during absorption charge mode until the battery charge current drops to 0.1 amperes at which time it then automatically switches to a float charge mode. During float charge mode, the output voltage of the Battery Tender Plus battery charger is 13.2 VDC, which is well below the gassing voltage of a lead acid battery. This keeps the battery topped off, while minimizing any detrimental effects to do gassing. The Battery Tender Plus battery charger is able to perform these complex switching functions because its electronic circuitry is controlled by an on board microprocessor.

There are a lot of Yamaha (and other) motorcycle owners who have used either of these Float chargers for years with absolutely no ill effects.

(Caution) Although they often appear to be a better economic choice for the typical consumer, trickle chargers do not have the advantage of sophisticated electronic control. Therefore, as they allow the value of charge current to trickle down to what appears to be safe levels, the output voltage of the charger rises well above 15 VDC, sometimes even going higher that 16 VDC depending on the charger type and the battery that is connected to it. Either voltage is well above the gassing voltage of a lead acid battery. If the battery remains connected to this high level of voltage for an extended period of time, even less than 1 day, extreme damage can be done to the battery. What appears to be a cost savings for the charger may actually cost several times the charger price in replacement batteries.
Adding Circuits
1. Excellent Web Article on Adding Power The right Way - Distribution Block and Relay (updated 06/19/08)
  
  http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php (Contributed by LMCFL)
2. Fuse Taps - Tap the Circuit You Want (updated 1/25/06)
  
  This little gem, available at auto parts stores and Radio Shack will allow you to easily add circuits to an existing circuit of your choice. Slip it over one leg of the fuse for a circuit you want to tap, push the fuse back in and then tie your new circuit onto the blade of the tap, and run it where ever you want it to go. When you get it where you want it, then tie the other side / leg of the new device to a good solid ground - screw to frame, etc. Remember, if you add any real load, you should utilize a relay - using this tap on the drive or trigger side and a fused direct lead from the battery for the driven or load side of the relay.
  
  Another way to accomplish the same thing is via the Access-A-Fuse with a hidden tab that you can raise/lower and use to attach a blade connector
  
  Fuse Tap Access-A-Fuse
3. Wire Colors -- Lighting -- Tap-In Points (updated 1/25/06)
  1. Wire Colors in Headlight Bucket
    
    Yellow = High Beam Hot
    
    Green = Low Beam Hot
    
    Blue = Switched Hot (Both Hi and Lo beam)
    
    Black = Ground
  2. Wire colors in Taillight Junction (Behind Plate)
    
    Blue = Running Light
    
    Yellow = Brake Light
    
    Black = Ground
    
    Brown = Left Signal
    
    Green = Right signal
4. Installing Electrical Accessories on Motorcycles (updated 03/09/07)
  
  When you can use them, these Tap-in Squeeze connectors make i so, so easy to tap into a circuit for making additions.
  
  Installing Electrical Accessories on Motorcycles - Motorcycle Cruiser magazine
5. Switched Power (On with Bike Key)
  
  If you are just going to use the power tap for a minimal draw (i.e.. Charging your cell phone, powering a GPS etc.), it might make more sense to draw power from the existing headlamp circuit and install a polarized plug up front where you would most likely connect those devices while on the bike. The additional micro of mille amp requirement of those types of electronic devices would be negligible on that circuit.
  
  For something that was a bit more power hungry, where the source was still ignition on only, I would install a relay controlled and fused circuit that draws power directly from the battery.
  
  An example would be the circuit that controls my highway bar mounted fog lamps. They tap power directly from the battery, but only when a controlling relay is powered on by the headlamp circuit. The good news is that if you are not able to wire it yourself, any well equipped auto supply store will sell you a complete and ready to wire in place power circuit that is wired in the way that I described. These kits are designed for the installation of auxiliary lighting and are very easy to install.
  
  Daddo (Larry Marino) - A sinner Saved by Grace
  DaddoCFL@BellSouth.net
6. Relay Wiring (updated 12/29/07)
  
  If you are adding anything with relatively heavy electrical load (horns, extra lights, etc), you will need to control it via relay, to ensure you do NOT overload the circuit you are connecting to. Relays basically use a low power circuit to trigger the relay and thus turn on the controlled, higher load circuit / device. Example: Connect the existing horn wires (and thus the stock, low load horn switch circuit) to the trigger side of a relay, and let the relay activate the heavier load replacement horns -- which are driven by a feed direct from the battery, through the relay. Click the thumbnail below to get a larger drawing of how to connect a typical relay.
  
  In the following electrical connection diagram, the relay is being used to trigger the compressor for a set of air horns. If you are using electrical horns, substitute your horns for the air compressor.
  
  On the 1100, connect the two stock horn leads to pins 86 and 85 -- connect a fused power line to pin 87 -- connect a line from pin 30 to the positive lead of your horn or compressor. Ground your compressors ground lead to any frame bolt, etc
  
  NOTE: this is a corrected / enhanced diagram - thanks to Denny (Denny407):
  
  Here's a link to an excellent article on relays for horns
  
  Here's an excellent "How To" on relays - all you want to know
  
  Also: See the entire horn upgrade discussion: http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/VStar1100-FAQ-07.htm
  
  How To Use A Relay & A Distribution Block To Add Circuits To Your Bike
7. Install Cigarette Lighter Socket
  
  Patrick Nailon's Instructions
Speedometers (updated 03/08/07)
1. General:
  
  Inaccuracy Inherent: Most bike speedometers are "off" in accuracy. You should test your speedo and odo with a measured mile or with one of the "You are Going XX in YY " radar speed checkers. Or on the Dyno, if you are check / tuning performance. My 02 Classic was checked on the Dyno and it reads 5% high (shows 60 when doing a real 57, shows 80 when doing 76, etc)
  
  Note: Most does not mean all - I calibrated via matching speed with an 05 Silverado dead on with my recalibrated speed..
2. Recalibrators:
  
  http://www.blackrobotics.com/index.htm
  
  http://www.calsportbike.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?pid=800
3. Speedometer Faces - Replacement
  1. How to Replace the Face and another one http://recentabstract.com/vstarinstall/vstarinstall.htm
  2. Sources for Faces:
    
    http://4dw.net/crisp/alienfaces/faces.htm (link broken)
    
    http://www.stargis.net/webslinger/Images/Speedo/index.htm
4. Speedo bulb replacement (updated 08/25/07)
  
  Hawgstar: To get at the bulbs after removing the speedo: "The rubber has a groove in it that fits a shoulder on the inside of the hole to make it water tight. Just dig your finger nail into one side of the rubber and use a firm steady pull...it'll come...then the bulb just pulls out of the socket...". See Pix.
Keys, Key Blanks (added 04/05/07)

Key Blanks -

Any locksmith should have the key blank required to make either a duplicate key or to cut a key from the Key Code (you did save it, didn't you?!) They most likely will not have the black vinyl coating on the top and will be something like "ILCO brand, blank #YM63". Your local dealer should have blanks also, but might "over charge" relative to the locksmith. Also, this site carries the vinyl topped keys at a reasonable price: http://www.motorcyclekeys.com/blanks.html or NOPORK.com

Custom Key "Heads"

DIY- Use end caps of your old stock grips to make unique Key Head - this link now Okay!

Star Parts - Key "Heads" - cool!
Cigarette Lighter / Outlet (updated 01/03/08)

Patrick Nailon's Instructions to mount one on the neck cover

Helpful Hints on Cig Lighter Positive/Negative - and Switch - From cruzmystar

Cig lighter... lots of them are different. however... what you'll be looking for the is terminal that's connected to the outside collar or housing. that's the ground. the positive will be towards the center on the back. since you mentioned continuity regarding the switch what you can do is check continuity to see which one's which. the ground will have continuity to the sleeve inside the socket and the positive will only have continuity to the small center post at the bottom inside of the socket.

Switch... if it's a simple on/off switch with with only two terminals and no light in the switch itself then it doesn't matter. if the switch has a label with ON and OFF on it then i do believe the power feed wire will go to the terminal closest to the OFF position. it will function both ways just one way the label will match up with what it's actually doing and the other way it will be backwards

~nick
Wiring Diagrams US (updated 03/24/07)
TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) (updated 05/10/07)

The TPS reads the position of the throttle, and causes changes in timing.

Some info is available in the Yamaha Shop Manual (on-line in the KB), but is sketchy and falls short of the excellent info available via the Clymer's manual - which I suggest you invest in if you are going to do "work" on your bike.

See the section above on Starters and starting - to see that the TPS is improperly activated when the throttle is used during start-up, ceasing the engine to kick back against the starter and cause the dreaded twisted starter bolts and starter failure - and potentially starter gear problems.
Replacement Dash/Speedo (updated 01/10/08)

GoNavy7 (mark) Replaced His Stock Dash/Speedo with a Harley Replacement Version - Click to Download the How To PDF file

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