>> Last Updated: 09/04/2012 05:02 PM Central Time <<
8. Other Electrical (Back to Topics)
Adding Circuit (How-To, Relays, Taps, Wiring) Batteries Charging System Cigarette Lighter / Outlet Coils Ground Wire Jumpers Keys/Blanks Relay Wiring Replacement Dash/Speedo Starters & Starter Clutches Speedometers Coils Wiring Diagrams US TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) Wire Colors -- Lighting
Starters (updated 09/05/08)
Starter Rebuilt / Repair (Updated 05/01/11)
Excellent Forum Thread: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=52389.1
Defective Starters - Twisted Bolts - Bad Starter Clutch (See next item)
It appears the prime "suspect" in the dreaded "clunk" leading to twisted starter bolts (and also to starter clutch failure) is the improper use of the throttle (right hand!) when starting the bike. Advancing the throttle causes the TPS (throttle Positioning Sensor) to "misread" and to cause a kickback - the full power of which is directed at the flimsy internal structure of the starter. See the next two items on proper starting technique - and avoid the problem.
Also appears that an incorrect setting on the TPS is a major contributor to the dreaded clunk - either on starting or on engine shutdown. Included in the TPS section below is an excellent article, with pix, on how to check the TPS setting and how to adjust if it is out of the preferred range.
Click here to jump to that TPS check & Set article.
See the following articles for more info on what happens,
V-Star 1100 Starter Clutch Page - Best Picture on the Problem
The Problem - Definition, what to look for, pictures - very good
Another Look at the problem - inside the starter (link updated 03/13/09)
A Potential Preventative Measure - looks like it might work. http://www.collierscustomcycles.com/V-Starter.html (link is dead)
Fixing the Twisted Bolt Problem - DIY - link to excellent thread - work by Tundrawolf
Starter Clutch Problem (Updated 06/28/12)
POST YOUR PROBLEM ON THIS FACEBOOK PAGE - TO "BEAT ON" YAMAHA!
Forum Thread - Survey of folks who had the problem:
Good thread on symptoms, things to check, etc -
Potential way to get partially reimbursed: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=35930.1
Also, Canada Yamaha advises: " . . . . you should have your dealership inspect and verify and speak with their Territory Service Manager (TSM). He would adjudicate something of this nature based on what the dealership reports."
The latest Instructions:
AussieCobb: on the forum: Full instructions, then hints
The NEW Repair Kit - Discussion:
A Flywheel puller that works:
From EDS07 on the forum: I bought a Harmonic Balancer puller from Sears that had several sets of bolts to attach to the flywheel. You need the metric screws to bolt into the flywheel for removal. It was Sears Item # 00901540000 and Model # KTI70344. It cost me $28 which was a reasonable investment to make sure that I didn't screw things up.
From howsonIII on the forum:
A few thoughts.
1) The parts that come from TimB in the "kit" are different from what is posted in the KB (since revised below) or in Joe's instructions. (See 04/01/12 parts list below)
The last item, the oil seal, goes in the crankcase cover where the shifter comes through. In the 2006 Classic parts list, it is part # 6 under "Crankcase Cover 1".
The bearings go on the ends of the idler gear. They seat into the engine frame and into the crankcase cover. I tapped them into place with a rubber mallet.
2) When reinstalling the crankcase cover, pay close attention to the clutch actuator assy. For some reason mine kept binding. I eventually had to put the cover on with the screws just barely started, then hooked up the clutch cable, and then seated the cover screws.
3) The flywheel is a PITA to get off. No kidding--it took a sledgehammer (not too hard) on the flywheel puller to get that dang flywheel to finally popped off.
4) As I wrote in another post...keeping the timing mark exactly at the "T" during disassembly is not overly critical. The critical piece is not changing the timing between the crankcase (where the flywheel comes off of) and the cam gear assy. Locking down the cam gears somehow would have made this job much easier. Even if you do mess it up, it is not overly difficult to get it back to where it needs to be (as long as you didn't move it too far off).
Revised Joe Conway Instructions - Note: Parts List updated as of 04/10/12.
( Replaced this - Original Doc on Other site Starter One-Way Clutch Replacement Joe Conway)
Note: Here is an updated parts list - now included in above article):
The new 'Kit" INCLUDES:
GASKET, CRANKCASE (5EL-15451-00-00)
GEAR, IDLER 2 (5EL-15517-11-00)
STARTER ONE-WAY ASSY 99999-03908-00 (replaces 5EL-15590-00-00) Part # on box is 3B8-15590-09
DAMPER ASSY (3B8-15560-09-00)
2 ea INSERT, BEARING (3B8-15115-09-00)
OIL SEAL,SD-TYPE (93102-12321-00)
NO LONGER VALID:
5EL-15517-11-00 GEAR, IDLER 2 (updated part number)
5EL-15590-00-00 one way clutch
5EL-81890-01-00 new updated starter (only if needed)
90201-72008-00 washer plate
93102-12321-00 OIL SEAL, SD-TYPE (added)
Note from Joe on the above: Make sure you read those directions carefully (I wrote them). If you have any questions contact me by e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org Forget the sheave holder you wont find one. You will have to use an impact gun on the nut. If you don't have a compressor and gun you will need to rent or borrow one.
OR - put the bike in 5th gear, lower rear tire to ground, loosen the nut
OR - use soft copper washer / soft brass washer on the clutch side - inserted between the cranks and front Cylinder timing h=gears - to hold it all in place
BUT . . . but leave it in place on the end - see next item
Notes from Cobb - His experience:
Well folks, didn't I have a fun day doing my starter clutch. Not having done this before I got stuck into reading the Clymer Manual, the KB and the Joe Conway instructions over and over until I think the entire procedure was permanently etched into my gray matter. The little trick in the Joe Conway write-up about using a small piece of wire bolted to the Crankcase and bent just so to mark where TDC is was brilliant and I recommend this tip to anyone doing this job.
Within 20 mins I had the side stripped down and the Alternator cover off the bike looking at my Flywheel thinking: NOW is the time I need a puller so off to the local Auto shop I go.
But, before I can pull the flywheel off I need to loosen that rather large NUT holding it to the crankshaft. Now, Yamaha has a special tool called a Sheave Holder which locks into the indented lugs on the flywheel so it doesn't turn when you turn the nut. I don't have one of those so what do you do instead..?? Simple, you can either lower the bike to ground level if your lucky enough to have a hydraulic hoist and if the bike is in 5th Gear then you should be able to undo the nut. As I have only my trusty Timber Lift it wasn't going anywhere so I had no option but to remove the Clutch Side Cover and use a soft Brass Washer inserted between the Crank and Front Cylinder timing gears to jam up the gears - worked a treat, I could apply all the pressure I needed to both Undo and Retighten the crankshaft nut.
So, the crankshaft nut is all loosened off so it is now level with the end of the shaft and its time to apply the Puller. Remember, you MUST leave the nut sitting level at the end of the Shaft folks or you could SPLIT the crankshaft just like those poor blokes did a while back. Now the Joe Conway write-up said to "Apply a Fair Amount of pressure then hit the end of the centre bolt sharply to loosen...". GOD, I couldn't tighten the centre bolt any further and was hitting that frigging bolt for all I was worth and do you think it wanted to give up easily. Well, eventually my frustrations were rewarded and she came away nicely without damaging anything.
Then came the job of disassembling the Flywheel and Starter Clutch which was really simple. After wiping the oil off, use a Permanent Black Marker Pen to mark the position of all the cogs by drawing a solid line (inline with the Timing Dot on the back Cog to the front of the flywheel - after that its then a piece of cake. So, after stripping it down and removing the bolts that hold the starter assembly in place do you think it wanted to just lift out of its place..??? NO WAY, couldn't make my life easy now could it. So, I just got a big plank of wood and up ended the flywheel onto it, giving it a few good hard TAPS downwards onto the timber and TADA - off she came. That was when I saw how bent out of shape my One Way Starter Gear actually was.
Well, replacement was really simple - off with the old and on with the new...As always, I have a 2 ltr ice cream tub half filled with clean synthetic oil to dip all internal parts in before assembly...helps eliminate dry starts for new parts.
Then came the reassembly, which in all reality was a breeze...just follow the Clymer manual. Make sure the starter engagement cogs are in place first, then turn the rear timing cogs so they align and insert a temporary locking pin, place the locking pin on the crankshaft and carefully slide the Flywheel back onto the crankshaft making sure the timing marks line up. Once its slipped into place then add NUT and commence tightening to torque.
If you have done this right your timing should not have moved at all and you only need to install the covers and starter and OIL of course and your done.
A pic and idea from vstar105 - in this thread:
Here is a trick I use to keep everything lined up and avoid a headache. Check the allen wrench, inserted before removal of flywheel, only slight pressure needed to align:
click for larger image
Proper Starting Technique - Avoid/Minimize Clunks Shifting into 1st (updated 2/20/06)
Per the manual, always start the bike in neutral: helps with the issue below and lets you better handle the wet clutch on this bike. Once started, squeeze and release the clutch a couple of times, then shift into 1st - should minimize the cold bike, cold oil, wet clutch "clunk".
Proper Starting Technique - Avoid Starter Backlash / Clanks / Clunks (updated 7/17/06)
The “choke” on an 1100 is not
really a choke at all. It is a idle advance/enrichment device (that does
NOT use the throttle butterfly) (yeah, I know the owner’s
manual calls it a “choke”, but that was written by the guys who hid the
oil filter under the exhaust pipe). It should really only be necessary to
use it in the full open position on a fresh start when the engine is stone
As SOON as the bike starts, you need to bring it back to about the half way setting – and that would be close to immediately (the manual will tell you about 7 seconds and no more then 35 seconds in very cold conditions). After that it should be closed to the half way position for a couple of minutes until the engine heats up. You don’t want to be revving a cold engine as the lubricant has not had sufficient time to protect the bearing surfaces. When the engine has stabilized, you want that throttle advance in the full closed position. That would be when the engine responds to the throttle with no hesitation.
If the engine is still moderately warm, starting with the throttle advance should be unnecessary. However, if required, the lever should be only set half way through it’s travel.
--- Daddo (Larry Marino)
Charging System (updated 05/24/07)
Troubleshooting the charging system - PDF file
Norwestars Newsletter Article - http://www.norwestars.org/docs/1100ChargingSystem_03.pdf
From Posts (authors not captured):
Headlight problem is usually an indication of your voltage regulator gone bad. You can check this yourself if you have a multimeter at home. Check the voltage anywhere you have unswitched line volts (battery). If your voltage is over approx.14.5 volts you have a problem, you will quite often see between 15 and 22 volts with this problem. Remember though that often this is an intermittent problem so you may want to leave the meter on while you rev the engine or your headlight gets bright again. If you leave this problem alone it will lead to destruction of your battery and possible failure of other electrical components.
Sounds like it could be the rectifier. You'll have to test both the battery and rectifier. Volt meter the battery, which should be about 12.5-12.8 volts. Test the battery~ hook up the voltmeter to the battery and start the bike (on draw test). If the volts drop below 10.5 at startup the battery is done. Test the rectifier~ hook up the voltmeter at the battery while the bike is running. Twist the throttle. The volts should fluctuate between 12.8 and 14.6. If the volts are over 14.6 or the volt range doesn't change then the rectifier is cooked.
Battery Gauges: (updated 06/12/11)
LED Battery Gauge - $27 - Easy to install - thanks to howsonIII - avaialble from:
Howard's install PDF: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1616081/SDC%20Heads%20Up%20LED%20Voltage%20Monitor.pdf
Norwestars Newsletter: Current / Capacity Data
Voltage Regulator Cooling (updated 07/304/07)
ROGUE50: I drilled some holes in the cover on the front side. Don't know if they will help but seemed like a good idea to pull more air in around the regulator. I laid out a line and made equal spaced marks then used a unibit to cut to 1/2". The unibit cuts cleaner than a regular bit as this cover is chromed plastic.
High Output Stator - ElectroSport Industries, Electrex USA Ltd.
There is an issue with overheating on the new heavy duty regulators.
Electrosport is working to correct the problem
READY TO ORDER
1-888-369-8359 9am - 5pm Pacific Time
What it provides:
At idle, output slightly below the stock stator, but at 2,500rpm cruise level, 33amps / 430watta - about 65% more than stock.
Note: Stock Stator Output: about 84 watts at idle & about 260 watts at cruising speed (~2500 rpm)
(Vs. Manual saying 350 watts [24 amps] at 5000 rpm)
Norwestars Output Comparison Graph http://s180867979.onlinehome.us/links/photos/1100stats.gif
Change-out Instructions - Stator: http://s180867979.onlinehome.us/docs/VStar1100StatorChange.pdf
Note: You will need left side Crankcase Gasket - Part Number: 5EL-15461-00-00
Excellent source is Tim Bondurant - a.k.a. Metric Magic (TimB1007) via email mailto:email@example.com
Coils (updated 03/20/07)
NOTE: MANY FORUM MEMBERS HAVE EXPERIENCED FAILURE WITH THE NOLOGY COILS - WE DO not RECOMMEND THEIR USE - STICK WITH THE DYNA COILS
I swapped out the
stock coils for Nology PFC-30-S because of the higher voltage (45,000) and a
rise time that twice as fast as the stock. I have read on the Road Star forum
of stock coils leaking voltage and figured the Vstar had to be the same.
There were two types I considered:
Dyna and Nology. I when with the Nology for the following reasons: Higher
output voltage 45K vs. 30K for the Dyna, faster rise time Nology at
least twice as fast as the Dyna, and finally price, the Nology were
purchased through a Parts Unlimited dealer for $106 per set vs. the Dyna for
$175. Here are the links check them out for yourself:
-- The model number is PFC 30 S,
they are 3ohms single high tension tower.
The fit in really easy as there are smaller than the stock ones. I had to add a 3 inch piece of steel as a mounting bracket. I took a 6 inch steel ruler and cut it in half. Drill a 1/4 hole on each end and bolted them in. I have done this to mine and a friends V Star. Start to finish 30 minutes.
Wires: I used a set of 8 mm for a HD they fit like they were made for it. The stock coils have one wire about 12 inches long and the other coil has a wire about 4 inches long. The short wire goes to the front cylinder and long one to the rear. Taylor’s are really a good brand of wires and they come in different colors. I used the Talyor 8MM ones. Cost about $15. dollars (Prices from 03/07)
Another souces for Nology
Style coils - from AZsvt :
Dyna Coils & Wires Available from S&S Custom Coils @ $150 (04/08)
Installing Dyna Coils - SilverBack
No pics - but the mounting of the Dyna coils (above, from Shane) is very, very straight forward.
(BTW - would be almost
impossible to get good picture - given where the coils sit - and I don't
want to take the tank and filters off again - might try when I get the tank
off next -- but they really won't help much.)
First, as Dyna suggests in their instructions, make a diagram of how your existing coils are wired in - all the wires and where they attach (including your tach wires, if applicable)
Mount the coils in the same place and with the same orientation as the stock coils being replaced (meaning - keep the plug wire connector aimed the same way).
The Dyna coils are a little wider than the stock ones, so a slight tweak of the mounting tabs on the bike is needed. Once you remove the stock coils, use a set of channel lock pliers - for the off-set jaws and the leverage they provide. Grasp each of the mounting tabs on the bike (two for each coil) and bend the end of each tab down about 1/2 inch. Using the longer bolts provided, test fit and bend down a little more, if needed.
Make note of the raised red dot next to one of the Dyna coil spade connectors - that is the positive terminal.
Using your diagram, rewire the new coils, attach your new (hopefully) wires between plugs and coils.
Coil discussion thread: http://forums.delphiforums.com/star_riders/messages?msg=81750.1
and another one: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=21883.1
Batteries (updated 05/26/12)
Stock battery - YT14-B4 12 Amp Hours and 135 Cold Cranking Amps - 6"L x 2 3/4"W x 5 3/4" H
Replacement Battery: Mark Garetz did the research, see link below
-- Slightly larger size (IT FITS!), more capacity, more available, lower cost
-- XTAX14-BS (Updated number 09/23/09)
(key info: TX14-BS) 12 amp Hours and 200 Cold Cranking Amps - 6"L x 3 7/16"W x 5 3/4" H (11/16" fatter)
-- Batteries Plus (local source) - $69.99 - 09/2009
Another - 6" L x 2 3/4" W x 5 3/4" H 12 Amp/Hr 210 CCA
Good source: Length:5.81", Width:3.32", Height 5.75" - $43 plus shipping - From LoPhat:
Another source - DocZachary -
$39.27 plus shipping;
Vstar 1100 Battery Replacement Options - Mark Garetz's vstar1100.com
Battery Care & Feeding Article (uncovered by H*) Motorcycle Consumer News
Note: The larger battery may interfere with getting the cover back on if you have large diameter aftermarket pipes.
There is no problem if you have stock pipes,2-1 or small diameter aftermarket 2-2.
Whitestar246: I discovered this problem while trying to use the YTX14-BS on an 03 Classic with HK pipes. It fits in perfectly, but the cover will not pass between the top pipe and the lower front corner of the battery. It is the same issue for both Custom and Classic.
Jumpers - Jumper Cables
Recommended by Motorcycle Consumer News: Clearwater Voltage Centry $59 (added 01/23/13)
Battery Testers / Alternator Testers
Xtreme Charge XC-822 Battery Tester: $12.95 list price - www.xtremecharge.com
4.5" long, 1" wide 1/2" deep, 1.1 oz, portable
LED lights indicate state of chargeL 25, 50, 75, 100 percent
LED indicators for alternator charging: Good or Bad
MCN (Motorcycle Consumer News) gave this tester 5 star for ease of use, function, compactness
Available from TimB
Question: onionfmr - want
to install a Battery Tender Junior on my 2005 V-Star 1100 Classic. Would
like to use ring terminals connected to battery terminals in a
semi-permanent installation so that I can just plug charger in to quick
connector to charge the battery. Have done this on other bikes w/o problem.
Yamaha owner's manual and service manual talk about using a special
"constant" voltage battery charger or damage will result to the diodes in
the rectifier. Talked to Battery Tender personnel, they said just do it,
shouldn't be a problem. Not comfortable with the shouldn't be a problem
comment! For the winter, I've pulled the battery and am charging it off the
bike. When I reinstall it this spring, I would like to use the ring
terminals. Would be nice to be able to plug the charger in, if the bike will
being sitting for awhile unused, w/o having to pull battery cover and
disconnect battery leads.
Does anyone have any experience (couple of years usage) installing a battery tender as I suggest? Don't want to cause damage to electrical components over the long haul. Thanks in advance for input and feedback
Answer: daddoCFL - The Battery Tender Plus and Jr. battery chargers deliver 1.25 amperes during bulk charge mode, holds the battery charge voltage constant at 14.4 VDC during absorption charge mode until the battery charge current drops to 0.1 amperes at which time it then automatically switches to a float charge mode. During float charge mode, the output voltage of the Battery Tender Plus battery charger is 13.2 VDC, which is well below the gassing voltage of a lead acid battery. This keeps the battery topped off, while minimizing any detrimental effects to do gassing. The Battery Tender Plus battery charger is able to perform these complex switching functions because its electronic circuitry is controlled by an on board microprocessor.
There are a lot of Yamaha (and
other) motorcycle owners who have used either of these Float chargers for
years with absolutely no ill effects.
(Caution) Although they often appear to be a better economic choice for the typical consumer, trickle chargers do not have the advantage of sophisticated electronic control. Therefore, as they allow the value of charge current to trickle down to what appears to be safe levels, the output voltage of the charger rises well above 15 VDC, sometimes even going higher that 16 VDC depending on the charger type and the battery that is connected to it. Either voltage is well above the gassing voltage of a lead acid battery. If the battery remains connected to this high level of voltage for an extended period of time, even less than 1 day, extreme damage can be done to the battery. What appears to be a cost savings for the charger may actually cost several times the charger price in replacement batteries.
Adding Circuits (updated 05/10/09)
Excellent Web Article on Adding Power The right Way - Distribution Block and Relay (updated 06/19/08)
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php (Contributed by LMCFL)
The best connection methodology: (updated 10/29/08)
Strip, solder, heat shrink!
That being said, there are other, easier to use products that may work for you, but one of our most experienced mechanics says of the :
Those things are nasty! So are the full size scotch-locks for that matter. If I had a dollar for every one of those I've removed off of vehicles that had poor connections and large voltage drops I'd be rich. They offer zero corrosion resistance and make for a very poor connection. Over time vibration will weaken the wire where it's spliced and pinch and it will eventually break. IMHO wiring is one of those things that only needs to be done once if it's done right. I completely understand that soldering and heat shrinking isn't the quickest and easiest method but it is the ONLY method that will stand up to the elements and time.
So. . . . make your own choice.
I (silverback talking) personally use the quick splicers for "trigger" circuits only and not power circuits. For power circuits, I used to strip the wires, twist them into wire nuts and then use plastic electrical tape - now I use the Cage Clamp connectors below).
Cage Clamp Connectors - Simple, Easy, Space Saving, Inexpensive ($1) - Trim the wire to gauge on connector, insert, push down clamp arm.
Available at: http://trick-lights.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=29
Quick Splice Connector with Male Disconnector:
Slip the blue piece over the wire you want to tap into. Flip over the edge and crimp with regular pliers. Crimp the male end onto the stripped end of the wire for the new circuit leg with electrical "pliers" / tool or with corner of a jaw on regular pliers (once each side). Slip the connector all the way over the tap. done!
Big advantages over the piggy-back connector: smaller profile; insulated male connector is positive locking mechanism; can remove the newly connected wire when you want.
3 sizes avaialble, 3 per pack about $2 per pack
Available at Radio Shack stores and: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3004023
Posi-Products - Non-crimp connectors / taps / quick disconnects"
GM "Weatherpack" connectors - courtesy of Sick Mick (quick_mick):
I like to use GM "Weatherpack" connectors (used in automotive wiring) whenever you need a way to connect and disconnect wires on a regular basis... and they solved the license bolt dilemna for me.
There are actually more parts involved than the ones shown here, including a plastic housing and silicone boots to keep moisture out, but that makes them a bit too bulky. They are made for small wires. These metal terminals pictured here are just the inside male/female connectors and are the only part I use.
Again, they are quite small (not much larger in diameter than the wire) and allow you to easily disconnect the wire if the mood strikes you. I solder these on as well as crimping, then I add shrink tubing to cover anything that might be exposed after they are connected.
I've used them a lot.... because you just never know when it would be handy to be able to get some wires out of your way. They are available at any good automotive parts store.
(originally posted in reference to a way to use LED license plate bolts and to be able to remove the bolts and disconnect the wires - to change plat)
Fuse Taps - Tap the Circuit You Want (updated 1/25/06)
This little gem, available at auto parts stores and Radio Shack will allow you to easily add circuits to an existing circuit of your choice. Slip it over one leg of the fuse for a circuit you want to tap, push the fuse back in and then tie your new circuit onto the blade of the tap, and run it where ever you want it to go. When you get it where you want it, then tie the other side / leg of the new device to a good solid ground - screw to frame, etc. Remember, if you add any real load, you should utilize a relay - using this tap on the drive or trigger side and a fused direct lead from the battery for the driven or load side of the relay.
Another way to accomplish the same thing is via the Access-A-Fuse with a hidden tab that you can raise/lower and use to attach a blade connector
Wire Colors -- Lighting -- Tap-In Points (updated 1/25/06)
Wire Colors in Headlight Bucket
Yellow = High Beam Hot
Green = Low Beam Hot
Blue = Both Running Lights / Switched Hot - good place to "drive" solenoids
Dark-Green = Right Turn signal
Chocolate = Left Turn signal
Black = Ground
Wire colors in Taillight Junction (Behind Plate) and also under the seat where wires go to rear.
Blue = Running Light (always hot when key is on) - good place to "drive" solenoids
Yellow = Brake Light
Black = Ground
Brown = Left Signal
Green = Right signal
Installing Electrical Accessories on Motorcycles (updated 03/09/07)
When you can use them, these Tap-in Squeeze connectors make i so, so easy to tap into a circuit for making additions.
Installing Electrical Accessories on Motorcycles - Motorcycle Cruiser magazine
Switched Power (On with Bike Key)
If you are just going to use the power tap for a
minimal draw (i.e.. Charging your cell phone, powering a GPS etc.), it might
make more sense to draw power from the existing headlamp circuit and install
a polarized plug up front where you would most likely connect those devices
while on the bike. The additional micro of mille amp requirement of those
types of electronic devices would be negligible on that circuit.
For something that was a bit more power hungry, where the source was still ignition on only, I would install a relay controlled and fused circuit that draws power directly from the battery.
An example would be the circuit that controls my highway bar mounted fog lamps. They tap power directly from the battery, but only when a controlling relay is powered on by the headlamp circuit. The good news is that if you are not able to wire it yourself, any well equipped auto supply store will sell you a complete and ready to wire in place power circuit that is wired in the way that I described. These kits are designed for the installation of auxiliary lighting and are very easy to install.
Daddo (Larry Marino) - A sinner Saved by Grace
Relay Wiring (updated 12/29/07)
If you are adding anything with relatively heavy electrical load (horns, extra lights, etc), you will need to control it via relay, to ensure you do NOT overload the circuit you are connecting to. Relays basically use a low power circuit to trigger the relay and thus turn on the controlled, higher load circuit / device. Example: Connect the existing horn wires (and thus the stock, low load horn switch circuit) to the trigger side of a relay, and let the relay activate the heavier load replacement horns -- which are driven by a feed direct from the battery, through the relay. Click the thumbnail below to get a larger drawing of how to connect a typical relay.
In the following electrical connection diagram, the relay is being used to trigger the compressor for a set of air horns. If you are using electrical horns, substitute your horns for the air compressor.
On the 1100, connect the two stock horn leads to pins 86 and 85 -- connect a fused power line to pin 87 -- connect a line from pin 30 to the positive lead of your horn or compressor. Ground your compressors ground lead to any frame bolt, etc
NOTE: this is a corrected / enhanced diagram - thanks to Denny (Denny407):
Here's a link to an excellent article on relays for horns
Here's an excellent "How To" on relays - all you want to know
Also: See the entire horn upgrade discussion: http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/VStar1100-FAQ-07.htm
How To Use A Relay & A Distribution Block To Add Circuits To Your Bike
Install Cigarette Lighter Socket
Patrick Nailon's Instructions
Speedometers (updated 03/08/07)
Inaccuracy Inherent: Most bike speedometers are "off" in accuracy. You should test your speedo and odo with a measured mile or with one of the "You are Going XX in YY " radar speed checkers. Or on the Dyno, if you are check / tuning performance. or witha GPS - very accurate! My 02 Classic was checked on the Dyno and it reads 5% high (shows 60 when doing a real 57, shows 80 when doing 76, etc)
Note: Most does not mean all - I calibrated via matching speed with an 05 Silverado dead on with my recalibrated speed..
Speedometer Faces - Replacement (updated 09/30/08)
How to Replace the Face This is for 650, but applies to 1100 also - see notes at the end
Sources for Faces:
Speedo bulb replacement (updated 08/03/11)
Replacement Bulb - standard 74 bulb, miniature wedge base. any auto store will have them in a 2 pack
Hawgstar: To get at the bulbs after removing the speedo: "The rubber has a groove in it that fits a shoulder on the inside of the hole to make it water tight. Just dig your finger nail into one side of the rubber and use a firm steady pull...it'll come...then the bulb just pulls out of the socket...". See Pix.
Alternative Speedo Lighting (updated 11/17/09)
Forum Thread on LED Replacement bulbs - Colors, Wiring, Diodes:
Keys, Key Blanks (added 04/05/07)
Key Blanks - ILCO #YH35RBP (it has the black plastic top) or YM63 no plastic top
Any locksmith should have the key blank required to make either a duplicate key or to cut a key from the Key Code (you did save it, didn't you?!) They most likely will not have the black vinyl coating on the top and will be something like "ILCO brand, blank #YM63". Your local dealer should have blanks also, but might "over charge" relative to the locksmith.
Also, this site carries the vinyl topped keys at a reasonable price:
Custom Key "Heads"
DIY- Use end caps of your old stock grips to make unique Key Head - this link now Okay!
Star Parts - Key "Heads" - cool!
Cigarette Lighter / Outlet (updated 10/01/10)
Sources: Radio Shack, Walmart, 4-wheel ATV dealers, .........
Patrick Nailon's Instructions to mount one on the neck cover
Helpful Hints on Cig Lighter Positive/Negative - and Switch - From cruzmystar
Cig lighter... lots of them are
different. however... what you'll be looking for the is terminal that's
connected to the outside collar or housing. that's the ground. the positive
will be towards the center on the back. since you mentioned continuity
regarding the switch what you can do is check continuity to see which one's
which. the ground will have continuity to the sleeve inside the socket and
the positive will only have continuity to the small center post at the
bottom inside of the socket.
Switch... if it's a simple on/off switch with with only two terminals and no light in the switch itself then it doesn't matter. if the switch has a label with ON and OFF on it then i do believe the power feed wire will go to the terminal closest to the OFF position. it will function both ways just one way the label will match up with what it's actually doing and the other way it will be backwards
Socket adapter that hooks to your battery tender lead: (thanks RedLegRider):
Buy it here: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CSM0/10722S.oap?keyword=lighter+adapter
Wiring Diagrams US (updated 12/29/08)
TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) (updated 04/18/12)
The TPS reads the position of the throttle, and causes changes in timing.
Some info is available in the Yamaha Shop Manual (on-line in the KB), but is sketchy and falls short of the excellent info available via the Clymer's manual - which I suggest you invest in if you are going to do "work" on your bike.
How To Test & Adjust The TPS - Thanks to Poppa aka Miro Spacek
Note: The connector to the igniter box is different on the 07 bikes. that's why it doesn't look like the picture.
Take another 5 minutes, pull the tank and use the connector up by the front cylinder.
(Thanks, Dro for this info/advice)
Note: "Set Idle to 1000"
- That's to be sure the TPS - throttle alignment is in a known spot when you do the test.
Idle screw adjusts the throttle position, right!?
Note: Above step, adjust then turn the bike off to do the testing / adjustment
Should be obvious, but apparently some folks like to work on their carbs with the bike running.
If you have a ohm meter you can do it yourself, not hard at all or have a friend help...I removed the torx screws with vice grips and replaced them with metric screws, that way didn't have to buy the torx tool.
Get the manual, read up on the TPS settings and make the adjustments. I had to REMOVE the small round metal washers off the TPS to get the TPS to move a little more for the correct adjustment, follow me on this? I am calling them washers, but there about 1/8" thick and they fit under the screws on the TPS. If you remove them then the TPS will rotate a little more for better ohm setting.
Ok, remove the tank and find the 3 wire plug, with blue, black and yellow wires, should be up near the front center of frame. There are two readings you are looking for, a high and low ohm setting. The high setting should be 4 to 6k on the blue and black wires. On the yellow black wires the ohm setting should be 560 to 840 with closed throttle and 3000 to 4500 with wide open throttle.
Where guys are having hard starting problems is that the TPS is set with too high ohm readings and its advancing the ignition too far causing the kickback on start-up. Simply measure the ohms and adjust the TPS one way or another, mine are set at 650 ohm for blue-black and 4200 ohms for the yellow-black wires. You check systems-electrical-other #8 then #10 for TPS settings, its on the left side of kb site..
See the section above on Starters and starting - to see that the TPS is improperly activated when the throttle is used during start-up, ceasing the engine to kick back against the starter and cause the dreaded twisted starter bolts and starter failure - and potentially starter gear problems.
Do not remove or unhook the TPS unless you have a Dyna 3000 ignition unit and have higher performance cams installed along with the other mods required to run them. See Cams and Ignition Modules (Dyna Boxes)
Replacement Dash/Speedo (updated 01/10/08)
GoNavy7 (mark) Replaced His Stock Dash/Speedo with a Harley Replacement Version - Click to Download the How To PDF file
Jumpers (updated 08/10/09)
click for bigger pic
From SilverBack: Jumper Cables and Means of attaching same to my installed Battery Tender cable
This is a set of MC jumpers I bought at my local Honda dealer - $8 or $9 - in a case about 6 inches in diameter and 1.5 inches tall - 8 feet long 10 gauge wire.
My Battery Tender came with a fused cord to
attach to the battery and then leave exposed outside the battery cover - I
tuck mine up under the front of the Ultimate seat on one bike and under the
hanging-downside-seat-flap on my Mustang seat on the other. I ordered a
second cord from (??? Phat I think) for the second bike.
The cord came with 3.5 amp fuse, which I changed to 15 amp - GRIN - after I blew the 3.5 fuse the first time I had to jump my bike.
My battery tender also came with a plug in set of jumper clamps (like on the end of my MC jumpers) and I made my special jump-the-bike-via-the-battery-tender-cable cable from that.
I cut off the clamps, attached circular connector to each of the exposed ends, being careful to label the correct positive end (it is the reverse of what the cut-off-clamps showed - due change in direction of jump flow) - and then installed a bolt with several washers through each of the circular connectors (the bolt and washers give me something substantial to attach the jumper clamps to when I need to jump my bike - or use my bike to jump another bike (which is more often than I need a jump).
Ground Wire (updated 08/16/09)
Follow the ground from the battery to the engine case with a good flashlight. It is on the right side of the bike down low. You will see #18 on the case, the ground is attached there with a 5MM hex. You can get to it two ways: 1) with a 5MM socket and extension with a swivel; or 2) with a long, T-handled Allen wrench. It would probably be easier with the chrome cover below the battery box removed but it looked like the mufflers would have to be removed to get it out of the way. First step in solving problems, make sure it is clean and tight.
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