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>> Last Updated: 07/05/2008 05:51 AM Central Time <<
12. Handle Bars, Controls, Cables (Back to Topics)
Bars Cables Choke Relocation How To Change Bars Control Boxes Cruise Controls Grips HD Controls HD Throttle Cable Hiding Wires How-to-Measure-Handlebars Mirrors Quick-Throttle Risers
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If you want to mount HD or other non-metric mirrors on the 1100, get a pair of converters from Kuryakyn
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No Cost Lever Mod for Smaller Hhands Thread
Kuryakyn ISO Grip Installation Thread (ISRA)
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Yamaha Riser Extenders - Neat Product
Discussion: Setting Up for a 5ft Tall Rider (A Real good Thread / Discussion)
Riser Discussion:
starroderr: For Pull Back risers: You need to unhook the choke and the clutch cables. Both should be EZ to do at the handle bar end. As for the electric wires, just give a little pull where it comes out under the tank. The throttle should be fine the way it is. And now the brake; loosen the clamp and slide the lever in about 1/2 inch then loosen the bolt on the banjo slightly, just enough so that you can rotate the hose in the right direction.
SilverBack: A very popular riser is the Pro-1 Riser originally designed for the Road Star, but will fit the V*Star, also - once the question of brake line and cable length is addressed. the answer to the "will they fit with stock lines and cables" has a varied history. Fits some, doesn't fit others. Many folks with models prior to the most recent ones have found they fit with a little adjustment: turn the banjo brake connector to point down, and reroute the clutch cable - voile'. Others have found that a plus 2" brake cable is needed from the bar top to the junction on the fork, plus rerouting the clutch cable. With the latest bike years, it seems that Yamaha has shortened the cables and brake lines (really??) do the "need longer" / doesn't fit stock" answer is becoming more prevalent.
On my 02 Classic they fit stock, with the changes mentioned in the following article - initially. I had a little "tennis elbow" and wrist strain, so I went to 2" over brake line so I could drop the bars a little to give my arms a rest.
My personal recommendation is to get the 2" over brake line, reroute the cables and see if it works for you. The 2 over line will give you more flexibility of bar position. If the clutch cable remains too short / tight, roll the bars up a little so you can still ride - and order the longer cable.
vstar1100.com Article on Pro-1 Riser Install
For risers other than the Pro-1, There seems to be the same type of discussion as for the Pro-1 - some fit on some bikes with stock. Given the rise and return is expanded on all of these risers, it is safe to say the problem will be the same. And so is my recommendation (see above).
Riser Installation Problems - More Info:
RAYMAJOR -- I just fitted Barons Kickbacks to my 05 Classic. Advertised as "2" pullback, 1 3/4" rise".
Anticipating brake line problems, I had already fitted +2" brake line from the master cylinder to distribution block. I don't believe I could have
fitted the risers without this extra brake line length. I also fitted new lines from distribution block to the brake calipers, but these are not
mandatory to do this job.
All electrical lines up the bars fitted without change. I had to pull a little more wiring through, but there's plenty spare under the tank (take
tank off and check if your concerned). The throttle cables fitted without change. So did the Choke. The Clutch cable was too tight - I had to re-route it behind the triple tree instead of in front of it where it is standard. The biggest pain in the butt was the little bracket that holds the cable
secure under the triple tree.The new 14mm riser bolts wouldn't fit through the holes in the bracket, so I had to open them up about 1/8 inch with a dremel tool. If I had one, a 14mm drill would have made this MUCH easier. Many people dispose of this bracket completely, eliminating this problem, but I figure it's there for a reason.
All in all about a 3 hour job to fit the brake lines, bleed them, and fit the new risers.
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Cables (See Maintenance also) (updated 03/15/07)
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Choke Relocation
George Dumpit's Reaper Jr. Choke Relocation
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Single Throttle Cable
Has been posted by several folks: You can eliminate the "return" cable, and run with a single "pull" cable - and use a chrome bolt to lug the empty cable hole on the control box.
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Cruise Controls (updated 07/05/08)
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Throttle Lock Type of Cruise Control
Cruise-Mate Throttle Control NEW
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Fitting Vista Cruise to Kuryakyn ISO Grips
WhiteStar246 - Link to his Pictures, Instructions - http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1066564675029331491edLhvc
ClassicRide2 - Another way to do it:
If you look at the pictures will notice the silver band over (around) the black body of the cruise control. I reversed this so the black body is on the inside closer to the end of the handle grip. I then Dremeled out the inside of the black body about 1/16" so it would fit over the raised part of the Kury grip. I removed the set screws, center punched the handle and drilled small holes the same size as the set screws. I then put the set screws in through the black body and into the raised part of the Kury handle. That makes it fit without ever having to worry about slipping off and you don't need to use the rubber spacers.
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DIY Throttle Locks
SHOOTFIRE - Vacuum Hose Throttle Lock:
You can have one for about 30 cents. So no big deal if it turns out you don't like it.
Get about 1 foot of vacuum hose......the right size that just slips in the gap between flange on the throttle grip and the cable housing. Small stuff.....maybe 1/8" or 3/16"?
Wrap one end around the brake lever in front of that gap. Take 2 or 3 black cable ties and tie it off tightly to the brake lever. Leave plenty on the other end so as to make it easy to use. You will need a few extra inches beyond the full roundness of the grip. Trim both ends to your taste.
When you hit the road, simply pull the the rubber line down into that gap when you reach the approximate speed you like. Wrap it just a bit for a lighter friction on the throttle, or wrap it a long ways for a tighter and longer lasting setting on the throttle. You can wrap it with either hand since the throttle will still rotate just fine with it pulled down.
You can still manipulate the throttle with the hose in place, no problem.....so safety is not a big issue. Just yank it out when you approach an area that you will manipulate the throttle a lot.
When it is not in use or parked, simply poke the loose end up by housing.....no more loose end and it blends in very well then.
With a bit of use, you will become used to it. It is hokey, but it works great. I had seen folks talk about that little trick for years, but for one reason or another I never tried it. How stupid of me. It has been a Godsend in my case, as an old injury aggravates the numb throttle hand syndrome for me and was really cutting into my riding time.Pictures (click for larger image):
How it's attached. Ready to use. In use.
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True Cruise Controls (updated 03/18/08)
Lon Lawrence How To - Audiovox CCS-100 Excellent article on doing install for 650 - applies pretty much to the 1100.
Install on Post by dray (drayco58) with pix and comments on how he put the audiovox on his 1100
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Hiding Wires, Etc (updated 02/27/07)
G. Dumpit's "Internal Handlebar Wiring: http://www.dumpit.org/reaperjr/wiring.htm
Benny Bryant's Hidden Wires: http://www.650ccnd.com/wires.htm
Dustin's Hide the Handlebar Wires: http://www.650ccnd.com/wire.htm
Baron's Instructions on Internal Bar wiring: http://www.baronscustom.com/files/techdocs/Handlebar_Wiring_Hints_v1.pdf
Wire covers: cableorganizer.com: http://cableorganizer.com/chrome-mylar/#C
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Chrome/Polished Control Boxes/Covers (updated 4/21/06)
From SilverBack (AGBack)": Some discussion on controls/switch boxes
Warning: When replacing the master cylinder, bleeding the cylinder and the full front brake line system is required - see the section on brakes and bleeding - click here
Warning: Whenever you open either of the switch boxes you are very likely to screw things up - springs might fall out, things might not install right (missed tabs, etc) - be very careful, don't let things pop apart, do your disassembly/reassembly in a large plastic bag - to capture flying parts, and document everything - exactly what tab is behind what small metal protrusion, etc.
As far as I was able to ascertain, no diagrams of the two switch boxes exist. Yamaha does not sell parts, on the complete assemblies.
I must apologize, I missed a perfect opportunity - did not take pictures of my sojourn inside these "wonderful" little gems when I swapped out my stock boxes from polished ones from TimB.
If you are going to switch out your boxes, please beg borrow or steal a digital camera and take a 100 pictures (over kill is good in this case) - so we can update this and make the job easier for others. Mea Culpa / My Bad, etc for not doing it myself.
Specific things to watch for in the control boxes:
--Do the right box first - easier, more room to work, better opportunity to avoid problems and learn.
-- Left box, the worst of the two - more stuff in there, tighter, easier to screw up. Will take a lot of playing around and patience to figure the right sequence to remove and replace parts, and how to best remove wires and then stuff them back in place. Document what you do and be patient. The wires must go back exactly in the same place with the same routing as in the original setup - and it will take a little nudge here and there to carefully poke the wires back in place.. This side is packed, but it can be undone and redone - even by a big gorilla with big fingers, such as myself
-- Horn Button Switch - this one (like the Starter Switch on the other side) can come apart and you can loose internal parts - when I got it out, I wrapped with strip of duct tape to keep it together, and was very careful to hold it together when I put it into the new box. Be very careful on removing, and to note the orientation of the conical spring that will have to be removed separately (it will fall out). That spring is larger in diameter on one end that the other, and the two different size ends exactly match the sizes of the two sides of the contacts in the switch. Make sure to note which end goes where (although you can figure it out afterward based on the size of the spring end and the size of the place on which it rests. The trickiest part of reassembly was the lack of space and my big mitts - it was difficult to hold the spring in pace (both ends) while reassembling and tightening screws. Trial and error and 4 or 5 false finishes before I got it in right. Finally I used an old 2 inch long flexible feeler gauge to hold it in place with some tension as I carefully tightened the screw. the feller was flexible enough to bend in an arc for access and yet firm enough to depress the spring and hold it in place. Also, this spring is easy to bend out of shape, so treat it gently and be careful not to pinch it as you tighten the screws.
-- Hi-Low Beam Switch - watch this one carefully, and notice that it relies on a small 'tit" to be behind a bulge in the case to hold it closed / together. Look closely so you can address that "tit" when reassembling. Also, because that one side has no restraint, the switch looks like it can fall apart once removed - so I put a strip of duct tape on to hold it together until ready to reinstall, and then held it together carefully to ensure it did not pop open. When reassembling, do it carefully, partially install the screw on the other side of the switch, and then use something like a pocket knife blade to pressure the "tit" inward (closing a gap in the switch) and sliding the tip behind the bulge in the housing, and hold in place with your thumb while tightening the screw on the other side of the switch. If the "tit' is not properly placed, the switch halves remain slightly separated and the switch does not work.
-- Turn Signal Switch - nothing out of the ordinary here - it just makes everything very crowded, add more wires and confusion.
-- Right box - less crowded, easier to work with -- but both switches can give trouble. Do this side first, even though my instructions focus on the left side.
-- Kill Switch - same construction and concerns as the Hi-Low Beam Switch on the other side - follow those instructions.
-- Starter Switch - same construction and concerns as the Horn Switch on the other side - follow those instructions.
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Chrome Covers
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Polishing
Metric Magic Polishing Exchange Service - Tim Bondurant - bondurant@zianet.com
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HD Hand Control Installation (updated 5/15/06)
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From Bulldog (David Tise) How to install HD to Yamaha control and wiring diagram
Picture - courtesy TheGrish - a set of HD aftermarket controls. They range from about $200 and up (Can even find them cheaper used). I paid $232 delivered to my door for set of Custom Chrome controls for a late model soft tail. I had to remove the clutch safety, and the signals switches are a little different, but I gained cruise control, and they look much better than the stock units. It also gives a little more variety to lever selection, MC covers, grips, and the mirrors don't need ugly adapters. Bulldog, on the Barons Tech forum posted directions for this mod, and was a lot of help when I did mine.
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From Robert Gherson [TheGrish@msn.com] How he installed HD controls, based on Bulldog's instructions and help. (Click Here for Pix, Instructions)
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Choke Relocation: (updated 03/04/07)
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PEK (PerErikK) - HD Cable - Choke Relocation
Relocated the choke today using a HD short choke wire, part #29229-88D. I relocated it behind the the original carb cover.
I had to manufacture a "barrel" at the end of the cable for it to fit in the original Yammi wire attachment point.
I mounted the choke knob on the bracket that holds the carb cover by drilling a 10mm hole in it.The cable is $19.99 at J&P Cycles.
I made the barrel out of a 5mm drill bit which I cut a 7mm long piece off.
The end of the HD cable is a little "ball".
The HD cable is a tad too long but it opens the choke to the max anyway, so it being too long is not a problem.
As you can see in the pics of the installation the knob is barely visible once the cover is mounted back on. Attach a chrome choke knob, and it's almost invisible.
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Legion (le_r0umain) - Another Hhoke Relocation - Behind Left Skull
First, I have to tell you this mod will greatly hinder your access to the back of the skull. So if you're taking the skull home every night it may not be for you (lol). I never remove the skull, not even when re-jetting so all's good.
The good part is the cable now stays with the carbs, does not have to be adjusted again, clears the handlebars and has a nice click, click, click sound when pushing. In order to complete this mod I took off the tank and the seat. Nothing else. Use blue thread locker on all threads; wear gloves when manipulating the cable
Purchased a friction shift lever. They come in either left or right handedness. I got the on the left of the pic. Those thingies attach to a 0.85" frame pipe and allow a pretty wide range of movement and adjustable friction force.
Since earlier I removed the return throttle cable, I decided to use part of it. Both the sleeve and the cable. Both ends are good. Having the metal elbows was fortunate but regular sleeve would work as well. The jam nut provides for some free play adjustment but I chose a different adjustment method.
The main assembly can be seen in the pic below. 1. shifter's mounting collar 2. a 1" piece of broomstick handle (0.85" diameter) 3. mounting bracket about 1.5" long, 0.75" wide, 0.16" thick (ok, mine is 2 pieces 0.32" each). Plus two more pics for details.
The idea is simple, mount the wooden piece to the bracket and the shifter on the wooden piece. The wooden piece's length was chosen to match the length of a screw I had available, minus the nut thread length and the bracket and washer thickness. Then I drilled a hole through the center of the wood, ran the screw through the hole, drilled the bracket to one end and firmly attached the wooden piece to the bracket.
NOTE: the skull is still attached. I needed it in placed to find the best fit.
Next, I prepared 2 small nuts and bolts for mounting the assembly to the carb's bracket. As you can see, the bracket could be vertically mounted but I couldn't squeeze the chuck so far so I went for a 45° slant. But the shifter can be slid and twisted on it's wooden mount to compensate. So, I determined the best position and marked the place for the first hole on the assembly's bracket. Drilled the hole in the bracket then fit the thing again and marked the hole on the carb's bracket. Drilled the carb's bracket. In order to have the second hole correctly aligned, I mounted the assembly on the carb's bracket with one nut and bolt and drilled the second hole through both brackets at once. As I already said, the shifter may be adjusted a little bit on the wooden piece. Tightened the second nut'n'bolt and this part is done.
Mounting the cable: First I attached the empty sleeve with the metal elbow into the choke clamp and measured how much sleeve I needed. (view from below). Marked the length and cut the sleeve, then smoothed the cut with a file. This sleeve is double coated and it won't fit into the shifter's sleeve receptor. Therefore I peeled one layer for 0.4" from the loose end. Took the sleeve off and put the cable in. Then I mounted the sleeve back in reverse order a.k.a. the shifter end first and the choke clamp last. It was not really that difficult to attach the cable end into the choke linkage (tweezers came in handy...) and I was almost done.
The most difficult part was terminating the cable on the shifter side in an adjustable fashion. To do this I picked a short screw, big enough to fit into the shifter's cable notch. I drilled the screw sideways right under the head about half it's diameter with a drill bit a tad thicker than the cable. Then drilled again from the threaded end through the center of the screw until the two holes met. Then used a pin-head grinder to smooth the junction (the red circle). Put the nut on the screw using blue thread-locker leaving the cable canal open
In order to have the cable go through the newly prepared canal, I pushed the cable in the canal while spinning the screw in a counterclockwise motion so it won't fray. Needless to say, it took a while until it went through but then I only had to adjust the screw on the cable end for a little play, tighten the nut and cut the cable.
In the end, it looks like this:
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HD Throttle Cable - Hook to Stock 1100 Carbs (updated 03/04/07)
From: PEK (PerErikK)
Since I wasn't too keen on buying another stainless throttle cable when I already had bought the stainless HD cable, I started some thinking and came up with this solution, and I thought I'd share this mod with you guys. I'm very pleased with the way it came out!
What I did was to make a cut with my trusty Dremel in an M6 nylock nut for the wire to slip into. Then I made the same cut into an M6x1.0 threading tool, also for the wire. Mounted the carb end of the HD cable in my bench wise, and threaded the end of it.
The rest was a piece of cake, just slip the cable into the original Yammi bracket on the carbs and tighten the nylock nut. Worked perfect and the cable is secure.
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Stock Classic Bar Sizes (04 Silverado)
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Height: 6.5" Pullback: 13" Center: 8" Width: 33" Diameter: 1"
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How To Measure Bars (updated 05/05/07)
J&P cycles Tech Tip - How to measure Handlebars
More: Bar Sizing Chart: http://www.sideroadcycles.com/AmericanMotorcycles/Handlebars/Stock_Bars.html
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Quick Throttle (updated 11/8/06)
Mod to reduce twist needed to apply throttle- see thread at: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=18399.1
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How To Change Bars (updated 05/01/08)
From Drostar100:
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Step one
- Remove the bar end weights. If you are installing aftermarket bars you will either need to buy new grips or remove the threaded inserts from the stock bars because the bar end weights hold the stock grips on and they can not be reused with out some modification which I will address later.
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Step Two
- Remove the left side grip. The best way to do this is to use a small flat blade screw driver to lift the grip away from the bars, and then spray some carb cleaner between the grip and the bar. Remove the screw driver, twist the grip around a little bit to loosen it, reinsert the screw driver. It should go in farther this time spray more carb cleaner…….repeat this process until the grip comes off.
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Step three
- Remove the screws from the left side control box and remove the box from the bars then loosen the clutch cable by turning the adjustment screw all the way in, line up the slots and remove the cable. Unplug the wires for the clutch safety switch. Loosen the bolt on the clutch perch and slip the perch off of the bars.
- The left side is now completely clean.
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Step four
- Loosen the adjustment on the throttle cable to give you some slack. Remove the two screws from the right side control box, but leave the cables attached for now you may not have to remove them. Unplug the wires for the front brake light. Remove the master cylinder by taking the clamp off of the bars. Just let it hang for now.
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Step five
- Remove the four bolts in the risers, make sure and hold the bars so they don’t swing down and hit the tank. Once the caps are removed slide the bars to the left and out of the throttle grip.
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Step six
- Slide the new bars into the throttle grip and reinstall the riser clamps. Now you are in the mock up stage, you can check cable fit brake line length etc….
- If everything fits then you can go ahead and bolt it back up just follow the instructions in reverse order (I always love that line in the manual)
- If something is too tight go to step seven
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Step seven
- If the throttle cables are too short remove them from the grips, take the pull cable (the front one) off first this is the one you should have more slack in. Then you can turn the grip a little to get enough slack to remove the push cable. Run the cables back through the triple tree and then up to the grip. With the cables behind the tree you should gain a couple inches. Check the fit again. Do the same with the clutch cable if necessary, this usually gets routed outside the forks to make it fit.
- If the brake line is too tight you can first try just barely loosening it and turning the fitting to create some slack. Don’t loosen it much because you don’t want brake fluid dripping on your paint or plastic parts, it will eat both of them and you don’t want any air to enter the system.
- If that doesn’t work cover everything on the front of the bike with plastic (a tarp or heavy trash bags work well) and remove the line and rout it behind the trees also. Now you will have to bleed the front brakes which I am not going to get into and it’s in the KB already anyway.
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Step eight
- If they still will not fit you should be able to figure out how much longer they need to be from doing the mock up. You can order cables and brake lines from almost any on-line vendor or parts store. You are on your own on that, you are all big kids…. ;)
MOST IMPORTANT THING
Don’t take no for an answer, where there is a will there is a way. Most dealers and some parts suppliers know less about what you are doing than you do so you have to be very specific when you order parts. If you need cables and you don’t see them on the website or the shelf at the store call them or go to the counter and ask if they can order custom cables.
I say be specific but at the same time don’t give them a ton of useless info either, they don’t need to know the history of your bike all they need to know is that you want a V-Star clutch cable 2” over stock length, or a 26” brake line with 10mm banjo fittings. You don't want some kid behind the counter trying to tell you it can't be done, thats like the cashier at Home Depot telling you that you can't build a deck on your house......if it isn't in the parts book they don't know anything about it.
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Reusing the stock
grips on aftermarket bars.
- This is really very simple but you need a Dremel with a grinding stone.
- On the bottom side of the stock bars you will see a round weld on each side. I use a metal grinding stone on my dremel (one of the barrel shaped ones) grind that weld down until the threaded insert is free inside the bars and then pull them out.
- Smear a little JBWeld on them and tap them into the new bars.
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Step one
