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>> Last Updated: 06/24/2008 09:40 AM Central Time <<
16. Tires (Back to Topics)
Brands/Sources/Types Car Tires on Bikes Change - Balance Flat Prevent & Repair Gauges General-Info Oversized Pressure Size Compare Whitewalls Tread Wear Indicators What Tires Are "Best"
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Inflation Pressure (updated 03/21/08)
See YOUR brand's manufacturer's guidelines
Motorcycle Cruiser on Tire Pressure
Total Motorcycle.com on Tires/ Tyres
Tread Depth Gauge - How To Use
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Tire Gauges (updated 07/10/07)
Hard to get at the stem on some of our bikes, so these hgauges with their offset attachemtn can be a help.
http://www.getagauge.com/MotorcycleTireGauges.cfm
http://www.autosportcatalog.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=2348
http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=TIREGAUGE
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Flat Tire Prevention / Repair (updated 06/07/07)
On Repairing Tubeless Tires:
This is from Dunlop's site: (complements of LowPhat)
Dunlop recommends only permanent repairs performed from the inside of the tire, using a combination patch/plug method. Never attempt a repair from the outside, or inject a sealant, or simply use an inner tube, a patch or a plug as a substitute for a proper repair.
Only a qualified tire repair shop or motorcycle tire dealer should perform repairs. Inspection of the tire and adequacy of repair becomes the responsibility of the person actually performing the repair and Dunlop does not warrant the results of a repair in any way. Combination patch/plug repair kits for use by the repair shop or dealer are available with accompanying instructions from companies such as:
Remarco Inc.
200 Paris Ave.
Northvale, NJ 07647
(201) 768-8100
Technical Rubber Co.
P.O. Box 486
Johnstown, OH 43031
(740) 967-9015
Tip-Top/Moto Combi Kit
Tech Uni-Seal® Repair Kit (Also has been marketed by Honda, Kawasaki, and Yamaha with their own part numbers.)
NOTE: There may be suitable repair kits and materials provided by manufacturers other than those listed above.
Before any repair should be attempted, however, a tire must be removed from the wheel and thoroughly inspected. The following are minimum guidelines for the repairer:
Tires should not be repaired if any of the following conditions exist:
1. A tire has been previously injected with a sealant/balancer.
2. The puncture is larger than 6mm (1/4") in diameter.
3. The puncture is not perpendicular to the carcass.
4. The puncture is in the tire sidewall.
5. Separation of plies, tread separation, separation of any other components.
6. Cut or broken ply cords.
7. Broken or damaged bead wires.
8. Cut or damaged chafers (bead area).
9. Deterioration of the carcass inside the tire due to "run flat" or underinflation.
10. Cracks or other damage to the integrity of the inner liner.
11. Excessive wear - tire should have at least 1/32 of an inch of tread depth, excluding tread wear indicators.
12. Cracks in sidewall or tread.
13. Impact breaks, cuts, snags or gouges that penetrate the surface.
NOTE:
1. There should be no more than one repair in any quarter of the tire and no more than two repairs per tire.
2. The wheel itself must be in good condition. Any cracked or bent wheel, however slightly, may allow the loss of air and cause subsequent deflation of the tire.
3. Following repair, the valve assembly should be replaced and the tire/wheel rebalanced.
4. Speed should not exceed 50 mph for the first 24 hours after tire repair and the repaired tire should never be used at speeds over 80 mph. The repairer is solely responsible for instructing the motorcyclist as to the restrictions to be placed on tire use following repair.
In summary, NO form of temporary repair should be attempted. Motorcycle tire repairs leave no room for error and any doubt as to inspection or adequacy of repair should be resolved by discarding the tire.
Be sure to consult our Motorcycle Tire Limited Warranty, Care and Maintenance brochure for additional information regarding the use of Dunlop tires. Seek a qualified motorcycle tire repair center for more details. NEVER ATTEMPT TO REPAIR A DAMAGED TIRE WITHOUT THE AIDE OF AN EXPERIENCED TIRE MECHANIC.Slime Pump & Repair Kit - Members speak highly of this small package
Ride-On Tire Protection System
Several members speak very highly of this additive to your tires - spreads evenly in the tire, and flows into any punctures preventing slow leaks and flats. PLUS - is reported to be an excellent means of balancing tires/wheels without ugly, rim/spoke damaging weights.
Fix-A-Flat / Green Slime Discussion
Make Your Own Portable Compressor
Posted by Larry_Rymal (Rymal1): Scroll down for "Make Your Own Portable Air Compressor"
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Tires.html#Tires -
Brands / Sources / Types (updated 03/16/08)
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Tire Options:
Good Thread / Discussion - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=10996.1
A New "Contender" - Michelin Commanders - Discussion - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=31704.1
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Don't Be Fooled - Measure Your Tire Life/Handling (updated 8/2/06)
From DaddoCFL:
When the new rubber goes on the bike, here is what you will experience:
Wow, these tires really make this bike handle better then those “old” tires. When you change tires again, you will say exactly the same thing about the Dunlops over the Metzlers.
This is a common experience that fools a lot of riders into thinking that whatever “new” tires went on the bike are “so much better then crappy brand that I had on there before”. This is pure delusion as ANY new tire set will perform better then ANY worn tires.So, do it the right way: Meltzer's vs. Dunlop
When you get the Meltzer's on your bike, record the mileage and the date. I have no clue as to how many miles you do a year, but the information will be useful to you.
When rear tire time rolls around again, get the Dunlop rear (the front will be just less then half worn) keep the same data on the Dunlop as you did with the Metzler and you will understand the reason for my recommendations. -
Metzler
Product Info: http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/product_info/faq/index.asp
Main Web Site: http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/
Inflation Info: http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/product_info/pdf/m_full_line.pdf
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Dunlop
Main Site: http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/main.asp
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Bridgestone
Main site: http://www.motorcycle-karttires.com/
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Sources: (updated 1/14/06)
Ron Ayers. http://www.ronayers.com/
SW Moto tires http://www.swmototires.com/
Phat Performance Parts Tires (free shipping over $99)
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Types of Tires & Mixing Types (updated 1/15/06)
Daddo (DaddoCFL) :
I don’t believe that mixing different brands of tires on a bike, in most riding conditions, is going to be an issue. This is particularly true on a Cruiser like a V-Star. As long as you stay within the parameters set by the manufacturer for tire sizing and inflation pressure, you are good to go. I have ridden Dunlop (f) & Pirelli and Avon (r), Metzler (f) & Dunlop, and Pirelli (r), with no ill effects – Incidentally, I have come back to Dunlop 404’s front and rear for good!
What you can’t (safely) do is to mix Bias Ply Tires and Radial Ply Tires on the same bike. This becomes an issue when you want to switch to a different brand of tire, to replace a worn rear tread for example. If the particular tire you want is produced as a Radial Ply, and you have a Bias Ply tire on the front, then you are confronted with a decision. Either pick a different replacement tire, or plan on replacing both front and rear.
Bias and Radial ply tires have completely different dynamic properties. When they are leaned into a corner, the sidewalls and tread will deflect differently. This will create different cornering forces (which will make them want to make the turn at a slightly different rate). Bias and Radial ply tires also have very different damping characteristics which can make travel on a “textured” road kind of interesting.
Momma Yamma specifies Bias Ply tires for a reason. The frame, steering geometry and suspension of this particular bike is set up for the handling characteristics of a Bias Ply cruiser tire. There are of course those individuals who are running Radial Ply tires on their V-Stars. That is fine, and they most likely don’t see any negative differences in the ride as long as there are Radials on the front and rear. I am just more comfortable in riding on the rubber that the design engineers have determined to be the best combination of handling performance and safety for my bike.The common "wisdom" (perhaps old wives tale) out there is that you can’t have radial tires with a tube on a wheel due to the fact that because of the way that Radial tires flex in motion and deflect while cornering, the increased friction will abrade and finally cause the tube to fail.
This does not mean that you can’t do it as a whole load of riders equip their bikes with a tube/radial combination. I’m kind of thinking that this is in line with the same advice that used to be given to sports car (wire wheel) owners back in the 60’s and early 70’s when radials were becoming popular in this country.
When you run that combination on a car tire, with considerably heavier loading for 35,000 to 50,000 miles, there could be an issue. A motorcycle, with much stickier and softer road tread will usually say bye, bye in well under 20,000 miles. I would seriously doubt that the same problem exists. Maybe there are warnings from MC tire manufacturers out there about this issue, but I have never seen them anywhere. I would think that in this litigious society, any manufacturer would be insane not to post a conspicuous warning if they seriously thought a problem existed.
If you are still uncomfortable with the possibility of a problem, most larger Harley dealers will have a source for sealing spoked wheels for running without a tube. And no, please don’t try to seal it yourself with silicone sealant like those glory seeking custom builders on TV.
If you do ultimately run tubeless, I would still go with a bias ply tire and the bike is matched to that type or response and performance.The most important label on a tire is the sizing designation, which in this case reads "110/90H 18” This label indicates section width (110mm), aspect ratio (90 percent), speed rating (H - Up to 130 mph or 210 km/h), and wheel diameter (18 inches). In the case of a Radial tire, the construction designation (R) would follow the Aspect Ratio
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Paint on Your Own: (Some links from LowPhat)
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Metzler 200/70-15 fits on Rear! - But . . . (Two views)
Green Snake (fordjake): Just reinstalled my rear tire with the Meltzer 200/70-15 and I love it. Gave me about 1/2 inch wider and no clearance problems. This tire is now about 2 millimeters taller then stock not a big difference. Just wanted to post this for everyone's knowledge.
wekenav8r: had thought about doing this too. There are a few threads about it on Baron's tech forums. They advise against doing this. They say this tire is just too wide for the Vstar rim, and wouldn't be safe, even though the tire manufacturer says it's OK. I'm still torn on this one. In addition to the safety factor, they say some bikes come with the sub-frame offset which can cause clearance problems. Good luck with it, I hope it works well for you. Sometimes it's hard to cut through the BS, and know what works and what doesn't. Personally I would think it would be fine if the tire maker says so.
More - Against Doing It: From Stuwindsurf, posted 6/24/08
Forgive me for stirring up and old thread but after reading conflicting opinions about the 200/70-15 tyre Metzeler supply, I thought I would ask them direct to see if they thought it would be safe for the V* standard back wheel (for my own piece of mind) and this was there reply!
We cannot recommend you fitting a 200 section tyre to a 170 section rim, in our opinion it would not be safe as fitting an oversized tyre to your rim would distort the shape of the tyre (giving it a much smaller footprint) and adversely affect the performance of the tyre.
I know a lot of you have already established that but I just thought I'd post Metzeler's reply, so any one still considering fitting one can have a read. Hope you don't mind!Forum discussion: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=12099.1
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Front Wheel
- Straight forward - see Clymer Manual
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Rear Wheel
Be careful - see below
-- Remember that the differential and shaft come out with the wheel in one piece. Unbolt the caliper then the axle bolt and the four bolts just in front of the differential. It should pull straight back to you (YamMaxin700)
-- Following the manual you should be alright.
Couple of points though:
--Ensure the bike is jacked stable. When the weight of the rear wheel comes off the back the center of gravity will shift to the front.
--It'll be easier to remove the wheel from the frame with the bike jacked so the wheel is just barely off the ground (maybe even touching a little). You can jack the bike up after to give more clearance to remove it completely. (This will save you having a 40 lb wheel in your arms while reaching under the bike)
--Pay attention to the caliper bracket, it has the potential to give problems on reassembly, but if you watch as you going back it'll go as smooth as silk.
4-With the wheel off make sure you grease up the splines inside the rear differential as well as the drive shaft spline.
http://www.star-riders.org/starcruiser/newstar/article.php?issue=6.3&article=186(Hawqstar)
Also - see Rear Wheel Removal: under Wheels
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General - Changing Tires (updated 01/24/08)
Super excellent article on DIY Tire Changing with some home made equipment:
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html (From LMCFL)
Mark Holbrook Article - http://users.net1plus.com/holbrook/tireproc.htm (From H*)
Adam Glass Article - http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html (From H*)
Mike Saar Article - Home Brewed Tire Work - http://www.xs11.com/faq/tirefaq.shtml (From H*)
From Big Boo:
For those who are wanting to mount and balance their own tires, I run through tires on 4 bikes like a baby on cabbage....soooooo
This is what you do...
Look at harbor freight tools....they will discount their portable tire changer and motorcycle attachment regularly....now you have a decent set-up for less than $100. The built in bead breaker is really worth it...Yes you'll need a good tire iron, don't forget the handles of your large open ended wrenches, they make a great second tire iron. and also a little gadget called a bead stopper....cheap and VERY useful...first time you do this a helping hand is invaluable, but it is really just a bigger version of changing a bicycle tire...now you did change your bicycle tires right?
Now balancing...lets do this old school shall we. (it is ALL you need).....you need two straight backs...I use steel rimmed card table chairs. I kid you not.....with the wheel on the axle, axle across the back of the chairs (level of course), spin the wheel. Mark the low point (where it stops) straight down....spin again, if it stops in the same place, you have to add some weight...try a little at 90 to 180 degrees away from the bottom ..spin again...mark where it stops. add weight opposite the low spot. You do this (say one beer's worth if you drink two you ain't paying attention) you should get the tire where it does not seem to want to stop in the same place every time....damn, now you drank too much!!!! no...just kidding -- you're done that's right...can't get the tire to stop in same spot 3-4 out of 5 times, you got it balanced. Now show this to your buddies...beer in hand saying "yeah, my grand pap taught me this when I use to wrench his Vincents that he raced flat track". -
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Various measurements between 2 or more tires: http://www.powerdog.com/tiresize.cgi
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Tire Info - General (updated 05/14/08)
AMA Tire Article "What's Inside a tire besides air?
Discussion Thread on Nitrogen in Tires
Making Spoked Wheels Work With Tubeless Tires
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Tread Wear Indicators (updated 05/05/08)
Thanks to Hawgstar: Article, with pictures, on tire wear, indicators, etc
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This is one of those topics that should be banned from polite company - it relies 100% on "I Believe" (just like politics and religion.). However, the topic continues to rear its ugly head - primarily because folks look at the much lower cost of car tires vs. MC tires - and strive to save the bucks.
From a Dark Sider": "Tires are religion, and in the motorcycle arena and our litigious society are viewed very much as a "dark art" and are seldom discussed rationally."
From "SilverBack":
On one side you have the folks who call themselves the "Dark Siders" who advocate saving the $$ or getting, to them, better performance characteristics. You can visit their forum here: http://forums.delphiforums.com/DarkSiding/messages . This is a group of riders who have tried car tires on MCs (at least on the rear - no reports of trying them on the front) -- an none of them have reported any adverse effects, accident, failures, etc. These are the "advocates". They appear to be driven by desire to save cost, or to get some other performance benefit.
On the other side, you have the rest of the MC riders, who stick with MC specific tires on MCs. These are the "conservatives". Motivation? Inertia, belief in ride what is designed for MCs, lack of "enlightenment" - all of the above?
In the middle are the "experts" - the MC and MC tire industry. The "experts" all support the use of MC tires for MCs and decry the use of car tires for MCs. Why? Inertia, lack of enlightenment, vested interest, fear of litigation, all of the above, whatever?
What do we know?
-- A small percentage of MC riders have, reportedly safely installed car tires on their MCs. Small numbers do not make a good fact base. At best this is anecdotal information.
-- MC tire manufacturers spend $ and time trying to improve the performance characteristics specifically required by MCs.
-- MC tires have to meet different running, performance characteristics than car tires (2 vs 4 wheels, leaning in curves, etc).
-- Car tires are designed for car use - and not designed to meet the needs of MC specific performance (may work, but not by design)
-- A hell of a lot fewer MC tires are sold than car tires - volume may affect price.
What don't we know?
-- Is there a higher profit margin on MC tires (or is the completion enough to hold that in check?) (Vested interest?)
-- Does the added functionality of MC ties support their added cost?
-- Why have their been no long term controlled tests, or have there been? Where are they?
-- Long term, under all typical MC riding conditions, do car tires "deliver"?
-- Will my liability insurance cover me in an accident? will my collision insurance cover me in an accident?
What is the risk?
Risk has two elements:
--- Chance of Occurrence - what is the likelihood of failure?
--- Severity of Impact - if it fails, will it kill or maim me?
I for one, will not assume the risk of using a car tire on my MC - and I loudly and vocally advocate against anyone else doing so.
You need to decide for yourself!
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