>> Last Updated: 12/29/2011 09:43 AM Central Time <<

17. Suspension               (Back to Topics)

420 Shock Install, Adjust  Air Ride  Fork Basics  Fork Seal  Fork Tin Removal  Front End "Loose" Front End Mods   Front Springs   Front Spring Oil  Lowering  Rake  Rear Spring  Swing Arm, Bearings  Steering Head Bearings  Align Forks

  1. Rear Springs   (updated 1/25/06)

     

    1. Rear Spring Adjustment  (updated 05/05/08)

       

      How to Adjust Rear Spring  Updated / corrected write-up, courtesy of Hawgstar 

       

    2. Discussion - Replacement   (updated 09/25/08)

       

      SilverBack --

       

      The stock rear spring, at 575#, is considered by many / most to be a tad weak.  Many opt to buy a used Road Star spring - 775# and reasonably cheap on the forum(s). (How tell a R* spring from a V* spring? -- R* spring has 8 twists, V* has 7 - thanks to Metric magic)

       

      Other alternatives are available, including progressively wound springs with rate weights of  800-1250# - that act like 800# springs at the initial part of their compression and end up acting like 1250# springs when nearing full compression (PCS Progressive Spring).  These progressive compression springs can be thought of as the best of both worlds, soft (but not mushy) ride on easy roads, and stiff ride when the going gets rougher.  They also behave very nicely for those of us who are pound challenged (overweight - big boned - massive, what ever you call it), and tend to crunch a standard stock spring and challenge an 800# replacement. Also helps if you do a fair amount to 2 ip riding and your combined weight is over 250-300#

       

      Replacement, stronger springs are especially beneficial when lowering the bike - to avoid or minimize the chance that the lowered bike parts will impact one another. Stiffer spring means more jounce is needed to bring the parts into close proximity - and thus are better to avoid "frame clang"!

       

      Caution Caution Caution:

       

      The heavy coil spring is installed around the shock, and requires a great deal of compression (the rated weight of the shock) to release the "clips" that hold it on, then the removal of the shock, uncompressing the spring, compressing the new spring and the insertion of the shock and replacement of the 'clips.

       

      If you attempt to do the compression and spring replacement yourself, you are entering very dangerous territory - if something slips, you are going to get hurt - bad! 

       

      Best way to save dollars and keep yourself safe - remove the spring shock assembly from the bike, take it and the new spring to a local shop and have them do it for you. They have the right equipment and expertise. Best choice is a suspension shop.  Forum members have reported prices in then $10-$20 range - well worth your safety.

       

      Having warned you, forum members have reported tmultiple techniques for risking themselves - a.k.a. doing it themselves:

       

      -- Daddo and several others have reported the $14.00 Spring compressor does a good job:

              http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3980

       

       -- Get a McPherson Strut compressor from Harbor Freight (link below), grind down the "hooks" to fit between the coils, and use power drill as power to compress the spring, etc. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3980

       

      -- Use a whole bunch of large screw type hose clamps, and a drill to wind them down to compress the spring, etc.

       

      --  Thorbyfour: 2 very heavy duty 1" ratchet straps worked great for me. Loop the strap through the coils on each side and cinch down. Did not take a lot of effort and was done in about 5 minutes. A plus to this is the strap does not scratch the powder coating on the spring.

       

      -- Frank - o_ZooM_o - liked to use a Baron's spring compressor he bought on Phat Performance - wordy explanation is here:  http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=37225.1

    Removing the Rear Spring

     

    Advice from Jeff Leitner - BakerBrackets

     

    You can remove the rear shock by using a motorcycle lift (found at Sears, HarborFreight or Sam's for ~$90.00) and lifting the bike just so the rear tire is resting on the surface. I've found the easiest way to get those jacks under the bike is to use two 2x10 sections of wood under the tires. Roll it up on the wood sections first. Put 2 - 2x4's under the kick stand.

    Carefully roll the jack under the bike towards the front of the frame as you can get. Strap the bike to the jack. Carefully lift the bike so that the back tire just rests on the board. Take the seat off, remove the plastic seat pan, take out the rev limiter and wiring and the fuel filter. You may also find it easier to remove the tank, but I don't think it's needed.

    Next working from the left side of the bike, take off the crome side cover and the tool box cover. Remove the AIS assy and pull the plastic (tool box and transfer case) cover out.

    This makes everything easily accessible. First you'll want to remove the dog bone bolts. First the lower. This is where you'll need to find the pressure balance point with the jack. Loosen the bolt, and use the jack up and down to find the spot that will take pressure off the bolt and free it up. Once the lower dog bone bolt is free, work on the lower shock / relay arm bolt. Same technique to find the free point for the bolt (move the jack up and down). Take the top bolt out and remove the shock through the seat pan area.

    This is by far the easiest way to remove the shock. Taking the back wheel off is an alternative way, but it involves more weight management in that the bike is prone to be way off balance and you need to deal with a heavy back wheel assy. The seat pan path is much easier.

     

    Response from JimHartman1

     

    Hey Jeff,

    Thanks for the procedure and advice. All went well. Spring is installed, bike put back together and just waiting for the rain to stop to check it out.

    The instructions were great. Any questions beforehand became answered while working through the disassembly. All became quite intuitive. The only thing I would add is that it was extremely helpful to have the Clymer service manual because of pictures and disassembly instructions. Specifically, it showers detail as to where the bolts are that need to be removed. It also provides schematics of the swing arm assembly, which I found very helpful. I followed your instructions and chose only those additional steps in the book to support your procedure. Following the Clymer steps would have resulted in taking too much stuff off.

    Removal of the tool box panel would have been tough without the Clymer book. There is a bolt in the battery box that has to be removed before the tool box can be removed. Also, the battery box must be either removed or loosened enough to back the shock top bolt out far enough to remove the shock. All in all, it was a relatively easy process. Time consuming, though, for me because this was the first motorcycle disassembly I’ve ever attempted.

    I spent almost as much time getting the bike up on the stand. I came up with an adapter (2 X 4‘s) to fit between the jack and the frame. The PepBoys jack was just a little small, but the 2 X 4 adapter eliminated any metal to metal contact and seems like it will be just fine. Also, I worked out a safety net by installing large eye-hooks in the ceiling rafters and hooking two tie-downs to the handle bars and one to the sissy bar. This kept all stabilizing straps out of the way, which gave practically un-restricted access to the work area

    Finally, I went to three suspension shops and they all looked at the shock/spring and their eyes got big. None said that they could do it. So I took it to the Yamaha dealer and he did it in ten minutes. Charged $28.00. That was fine. I was just ready to get it back on before I forgot where everything went!

     

     

    1. Upper Mount - advice from Steve - Cycle Foray

       

      -- On the right of the bike, you will have to remove the battery and loosen the battery box so you can get the top bolt out of the shock.

      -- On the left (more parts to remove here), you will have to remove the chrome drive shaft beauty cover... (the one that looks like a gear box).  You then need to remove the side cover, the AIS crap, and the plastic tool box.  It basically covers the whole left side from the seat down.

      -- Of course the seat has to come off, and the mud flap/ignition module tray has to come off too.  It is a lot of removal but none of it is difficult.

      -- The dog bones can stay on the bike for removing the shock.

       

    2. Getting the Spring Off/On the Shock

       

              Caution, Caution, Caution!!  Be really careful, if you goof that spring will fly.....and it WILL hurt!!

       

      Discussion Thread (ISRA)

       

    1. Single Weight Replacement Info (updated 10/13/11)

       

      VStar 1100 Stock is 572 pounds spring.

      Roadie Stock is 725 pounds spring

         Available used on forums or or new from Dealers and TimB

      New Single Weight Springs: 800 pounds, 1000 pounds

         Available from Barons, Hellriser, more ....

       

    2. Progressive/Multiple Weight Replacement (updated 10/13/11)

       

      Available New Progressive Weight Springs: 825  to 1250 pounds

          From Phat, others ....

       

  2. Lowering  (updated 08/16/10)

     

    1. General Thoughts on Lowering

      Good forum thread:  http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=38535.1

    2. Making It Rigid, and lowered if you want: Need Info

       

       

    3. Lowering Kits:

       

      From Forum Member - mitchyd (mitchyd64) - $30.00 shipped - Email: mitchyd64@yahoo.com

       

      SS Custom Cycle Inc.  $50 - http://www.sscustomcycle.com/products/accessories/suspension/Suspension1.shtml

       

      Cycle Foray ((SilverBack Recommends this one!))  NOTE: : Steve's site is off-line 

               - click here for Cycle Foray instruction sheet

              

      Barons     http://www.baronscustom.com/catalog/display/566/index.html  Instructions at bottom of Description

       

      NOT RECOMMENDED!!!!   Pacific Coast Star (PCS)     http://www.pacificcoaststar.com/pcs/v_star_1100_lowering_kit.htm

             - PCS Instruction Sheet

       

    4. Make it yourself - measurements compliments of Steve Schneider CycleForay  (updated 10/13/06)

      Decide how much you want to lower the bike. We will use 2 inches for Sh!ts and Grins... so... 2 inches/3.6 (the almighty multiplier) = .55 inches.  So what do you do now... Add the 0.55 to 5.5 (the center to center hole distance on the stock link arms)... you end up with 6.05. So you make a set of link arms (use no thinner than 1/4" steel here) with the holes 6.05 inches apart. This will result in a 2" lowered bike. Note: same math and magic multiplier work for other drop distances

       

      Note: Factory holes are 12mm - so use 1/2 bit if you don't have metric bits.

       

    5. Make it yourself - measurements compliments of George Dumpit  (updated 11/12/06)

       

    6. How to instructions & Pictures (updated 12/07/08)

       

      http://www.picturetrail.com/howardt2621 Link no longer valid

       

      Trick for Bolt Removal & Install: Drostar (Drostar100)

       

      Take the bottom loose on the "nut side" and move it out of the way. Now push the bolt back in and press down on it a little and the bushing inside the shock will slide out the other side. Now you can drop the bolt down a little (so it comes out at an angle) as you slide it out and it will clear the frame.


      Leave the weight on the rear tire and the nuts will come loose with out having to hold the bolt.
      And then don't take all of the weight off the rear wheel, just enough to move things around where you want them.

       

    7. Adjusting Height Once Installed:  (added 06/19/09)

       

      All you need is a small auto jack.

      Loosen the nuts before you start raising the bike

      Place the jack under the frame in the rear and just slightly raise it so you unweight the suspension, do not actually raise the tire off the ground. You will feel when the bolts free up and you can push them out.

      Then you raise or lower the jack as needed until the bolts line up with the holes you want to use.

      The bike will still be on the kick stand and the tire will still be on the ground so there is no danger of it falling.
       

       

    8. How Low Can You Go?  (modified 08/28/09)

       

      sscusyc - If you lower the bike past the 1.75" drop your ride is gonna be lousy.......... Your bike will most likely bottom out and for sure with a passenger. You have 4.5 inches of travel minus the above maximum drop of 1.75" -- only leaves you 2.75" of travel... Now add the rider and that number becomes less... Add bags less still ... The heavier the load the worse the ride.

      We recommend a 1" drop for a daily rider as well as two up riding and no more then the 1.75 for vertically challenged or those that want that lowered look and do mostly solo riding. (Shane is the owner of SS Custom Cycle Inc.)

       

      robert65 --  I wanted the same lowered look but I was happy with my suspension at 2" down from stock, lower than this I found I bottomed out on the bigger bumps -- I have stock spring, I'm 6' 200lbs.

       

      MDvStar -- don't go any lower than 2", I have Steve's kit too, now for a day of straight cruising i can go lower, and it does look good, just avoid quick turns and twisties, or stay at 2" you will be amazed how much lower it actually is once you get it done

       

      JWSlusser -- I the CycleForay kit and roadie shock and am about 200 pound. I have mine set at 3.75" down with stock rims, stock size tires, and stock shock set at the hardest setting to help the bottoming out.

       

      I also went to AutoZone and bought two rubber mounts - I think they are actually for exhaust hangers or something like that. I zip tied them to the swing arm and it helps from the swing arm connecting to the frame. It makes a smooth ride, but being the size I am are it will bottom out if you hit a hard bump if you don't have the rubber mounts. Some people have used old tires or something like that but the rubber mounts help out.
       

  3. Air Ride

     

    1. Air Ride Kits (updated 2/17/06)

       

      Baron's B.A.R. Baron Air Ride [new]

      BikerBrackets.com Big Boar Air Ride  (Version 2, new & improved, its now available)

      Tricky Air ride Suspension (Paht Performance Parts)

      AirTribe Suspension (Street Boutique Customs)

      Reaper Engineering Concepts (Forum thread)  ReaperEngineering@yahoo.com

      Hi_lo Rider by Bike Buddy Pro  Available from Shane (sscuscyc)

       

    2. Build Your Own - How to - with parts list - Forum Thread:

       

      Build Your Own - CycleForay (lownox)

       

    3. Platinum Air Suspension - Annihilate's DIY "Bounce" Removal:  (added 09/26/11)    http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=51725.1

     

  4. Front End Mods: Rake, Springer, etc

     

    1. Springer front ends  (updated 02/20/08)

       

      Shane at SS Custom Cycle has adapters to allow installation of any "fit's HD" front ends:

             http://www.sscustomcycle.com/products/hardcore/Yamaha/v-star1100.shtml

       

    2. Raked - Vendors: (updated 3/19/06)

       

      Biker.com 6 degree rake triple tree

      SS Custom Cycle 6 degree rake triple tree

      Pacific Coast Star - 6 degree Rake Kit

       

    3. DIY Quick Easy Fork Extension  (updated 11/14/06)

       

      From skippy38 (Matt Arbogast) - DIY Quick Easy Fork Extension (PDF file)

       

    4. Stock Front spacers for Classic - 7 1/4 inches long

       

    5. Lowering Forks / Front End (updated 01/31/11)

       

      1. Progressive Suspension Drop In Lowering Kit (updated 01/31/11)

        Install Video (HD, but still applies) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssyYeEUSVJI&feature=related

         

        Available from Shane at SS Custom Cycles - #10-0058B.. (V-Star 1100 All)

      2. Old Trick(s) to Lowering Front End (updated 01/21/07)

      yama_hammer :

      There is an old front lowering trick, you may want to try.

       

      You could raise the fork tubes in the triple trees approx. 3/4 inch without any adverse effects. (Note: Tim B has done this on his ride, also - up 1 inch!).

       

      Along with that, you can also remove the tops and replace original spacers with a shorter ones, cut from a section of PVC, stack of flat washers, nickels, maybe quarters for these thicker tubes-- that be the most expensive choice, could have up to $8.00 plus invested in them forks. I'd also recommend adding an additional ounce of 15 wt. fork oil if you try these simple mods.

       

       

  5. Motorcycle Front Suspension: Fork Technology Basics (updated 03/13/09)

    Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine  - Motorcycle Front Suspension: Fork Technology Basics

     

    Aligning Forks / Front end - From ROGUE50:

     

    Find you 2 good straight 2x4s and a friend to help. Loosen the pinch bolts on the top tree (not sloppy loose but enough to allow tubes to turn). One of you sit on the bike and the other use the 2x4s to check which way it is off. Hold the 2x4 up tight to each side of the rear tire and while one hold the bike up straight the other can check the front tire alignment. One can hold the front tire while the other twist the front end in the direction it needs to go. Recheck with 2x4s. When you get it in line retighten and recheck to make sure nothing move. Not sure how well I explained this but hope it helps. Have done many times but sort of hard to write out. Good luck Jasper
     

  6. Replacement Front Springs  (updated04/20/09)

     

    NOTE: Check the comments below Changing Front Spring Oil for helpful hints on this process - similar steps.

     

    RJ (BuckRon):

    1. lift the bike to get the front tire off the ground

    1.1 Loosen the top triple tree clamp bolts - if under pressure you might bugger the cap threads (see below)
    2. remove the nuts from the top of the triple tree
    3. remove the preload tubes
    4. slowly remove the stock springs (I used a straightened coat hanger with a hook bent into the end), be careful not to sling or drip the oil
    5. install the new springs
    6. cut and install the preload tubes (the new springs should come with directions on lengths to use)
    7. replace the nuts on the top of the triple tree.

              -- Getting these started without cross threading is the hardest part of the whole job

              --  You have to compress the preload tube and spring enough to get the threads started

                   --while you're keeping the threads square male to female.

              --- See Ed Gruber's comments below

     

     GenLightening (GeneraLight):

    #2 should be to loosen the top triple clamp pinch bolts. These can be tight enough to pinch the top of the fork tubes which, if you use enough force, can help strip the cap threads. (noted above)

     

    Ed Gruber - email to me:

    -- When replacing the caps on the front fork tubes I would always start them without the springs in the fork tubes. I would put the cap lightly in place and turn it counter-clockwise, as though I were trying to loosen it, and wait for it to drop into the first thread. When you feel it drop into the thread you stop. Then mark the cap and the triple tree, or fork tube if it sticks up past the tree, and you now know exactly where to start when replacing the cap.

    -- Then place the spring and spacer in the tube. Line up the mark on the cap about 1/16th of an inch to the right, or clockwise, of the mark on the tree or tube. Press down to compress the spring and turn the ratchet backwards, or counter-clockwise, for 1/16th of an inch and you will feel it drop right in. Then torque it down and you're done. I've never cross threaded a cap yet using this method. It's simple and I'm sure I'm not the only one that does this, but I didn't see it in the KB and thought it might help someone doing this for the first time.

     

    Sources: Progressive Suspension

     

  7. Change Front Spring Oil (modified 12/29/11)

     

    NOTE: Check the comments above under Changing Front Springs for helpful hints on this process - similar steps.

     

    Big Daddy Cain (ccain75)

    Before I take the fork apart I loosen the damper rod bolt before removing the spring. The spring puts enough pressure on the damper rod to keep it from spinning.

     

    GenLightening (GeneraLight)

    -- First, lift the front wheel off the ground, loosen only the top triple clamp bolts and remove the fork caps (be careful, the springs are still compressed some) remove the springs and insert the hose.

    -- To really get the maximum amount of oil out - you will need to compress the forks - to force the oil up where you can get it
    -- You won't get all of the oil and there will be some muck in the very bottom too. Fill the forks with oil (the amount will vary from the 15.7 oz that would be if you drained them completely), compress the fork a few times to pump the oil into the valving. Then compress it and check the level without the spring and the oil level should be about 4.25 inches from the top of the fork.
    -- Insert the springs and carefully push the cap down and start screwing it down. The cap is aluminum and has very fine threads, easy to cross thread! Tighten the triple clamp bolts and you're done.
           

     raymajor   Another, slightly different view of "how to" (based on the above, modified by his experience)

    -- First, lift the front wheel off the ground, loosen only the top triple clamp bolts and remove the fork caps by screwing anti-clockwise (be careful, the springs are still compressed some). Connect some ¼ OD plastic hose to a vacuum pump connected to a used oil container you will need at least 3 feet of hose to reach the bottom of the fork legs. Tape the plastic hose securely to a piece of ¼ diameter rod above 2 foot long, and poke it down the centre of the fork spring to the very bottom.
    -- If you turn the forks so the one you are draining is pointing down, you will be able to drain approx. 400cc of the 464cc from each fork leg. Refill the forks with oil (the amount will vary from the 464cc that would be if you drained them completely), compress the fork a few times to pump the oil into the valving. Then compress it and check the level without the spring and the oil level should be about 4.25 inches from the top of the fork. If you are careful/lazy, measure the oil you remove and replace the same quantity as you drained with new oil.
    -- Carefully push the cap down and start screwing it down with finger pressure only this will require a bit of strength to push the cap down as you screw. The cap is aluminum and has very fine threads, easy to cross thread! Tighten the triple clamp bolts and you're done.
    -- If you use 15wt oil in place of the standard 10wt, the front suspension will be slightly more rigid (ie rougher riding), but will dive a bit less under brakes and feel less "wallowy" in corners.
           

  8. Front Fork Seal Replacement (updated 08/31/08)

     

    1. Courtesy of ArticStar (breid11):

      Once you get the forks off of the bike:
       1) pull the bolt out of the bottom with an 8mm allen socket. I suggest using an impact gun.

              Note: The 8mm cap screw is removed from the bottom outside.

                       Shove a 1" wood dowel (or a broom handle) into the damper inside the fork & push down while turning the 8mm cap screw.
       2) drain the fork oil by sliding the tube in and out several times
       3) remove the tube cap with a 6 point 22mm socket and hold some down pressure on it to keep the spring from shooting out
       4) remove the spring, spacer, washer and dampener out of the fork tube
       5) remove the dust cover carefully with a screwdriver. It should slide out of the lower tube easy.
       6) remove the metal retaining clip and from the oil seal
       7) slide the tubes in and out with a little more force on the out stroke and the oil seal and fork tube will come out of the lower tube.
       8) install the fork tube in the lower slider and install the dampener and bottom bolt with 22 lbs ft of torque.
       9) install the oil seal and metal retaining clip
      10) service the fork tube with fresh 10 wt fork oil and slowly slide the tube in and out to circulate the oil through out the fork.
      11) service the fork until you get 108 mm from the top with the fork compressed.
      13) extend the fork and add the stock spacer, washer, spring and fork cap.

       

  9. Fork Tin Removal   (updated 03/21/07)

     

    How to remove/replace Fork Tins - Metric Magic (TimB1007)

     

    Support the front with the wheel about 6" off the ground, loosen the tree pinch bolts, the forks will slide down & you can remove the upper fork tins (may need to loosen the steering stem nut).  You have to loosen the stem nut and raise the top tree a little bit. The forks need to be removed to get the bottom tin off. After the tops are removed you can then remove the bolts attaching the lower tins, remove the bottom tins by sliding the top fork out of the lower tree, reassemble. TimB

     

  10. Rake  (updated 03/07/09)

     

    Article on Rake (pdf file)

     

    Rake & Trial Calculator

     

  11. Swing Arm, Bearings (updated 11/21/08)

     

    Thread on Swing Arm & Bearings (R&R)

     

  12. Front End "Loose" (updated 09/04/09)

    Thread on the topic - checks &  fixes: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=38533.1  

         Relating to loose stem nuts

     

    Steering Head Bearings - After market Tapered Roller Bearings - better alternative than stock:

    Lower:      NACHI - E32006J,  FAG - 32006-X, SKF - 32006 X/Q, Timken 32006X
    Upper:      NACHI - E32005J, FAG - 32005-X, SKF - 32005 X/Q,     Timken 32005X

    A source: http://www.goallballs.com/SHOP/shopexd.asp?pagefrom=Ret&id=575

    Install tips:

    (AussieCobb) - Here's a tip for ya... if you haven't got a press.

    When installing the lower Roller Bearing put the old Lower Bearing Race on upside down then using a LARGE shifting spanner snug around the shaft hit it firmly with a good hammer equally around the circumference...it'll slide down bit by bit. When seated just use a drift to remove the inverted old race and your done.

    I also used the old steering head races to seat the upper and lower bearing caps into the frame held in place with a flat piece of timber then whacked it into all place - piece of cake (apart from hitten me bloddy thumb the first time) OUCH!!! #$%$

    ( B4CChaplain) -

    When installing that bottom bearing whatever you use make sure you are hitting the "inner" part of the race and not the "outer" part or you will stuff them up! They must be tapped down evenly as well... tapping on all 4 sides of the stem as you go, ya won't get anywhere just hitting them down in one spot.

    Thread relative to above:

           http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=38756.1

     

  13. 420 Shock Install  (updated 08/29/09)

    Below is a picture of the Progressive 420 shock for our 1100's

    click on Pic for larger view

     

    Suggested for installation: See also: Rear Spring for install instructions, hints

     

    GeneralLight:

    Sag Setting: Depending on your weight (or combined if you're 2 up most of the time) start with 3/8" to 5/8" of threads showing. The more showing the stiffer it will be. And you'll probably want to go a bit stiffer to start with, as it will soften up a bit after breaking in.

    Rebound Damping: will probably be at 3, seems to be the best setting so far. If that seems too harsh go back to 2, but remember to go all the way to 5 and back around, don't turn the dial backwards.

    Adjust post install: I haven't had to adjust mine on the bike yet, but I may just try it to get some ideas for how to make it easier for others.

    Thread on forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=44307.1

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