V*Star 1100 KB (FAQ)

>> Last Updated: 03/20/2008 12:19 PM Central Time <<

19. Other Mods, How-To (Back to Topics)

Behind Bike Trailers Clocks, Etc Covers Engine Removal/Breakdown Flag Pole Mounts Garage Door Opener Gas Cap Venting Gas Tank Mods Helmet Locks Kickstand Extension Road Tools Tachs Toolbox-Retro HD Traffic Light Triggers Trailer/Hauler Transporting/Tying Down Side Cover Mod Suicide Shifter Rear Brake MC Relocation

Helmet Locks
1. Helmet Lock Relocation Bracket - www.BikerBrackets.com
2. DIY Helmet Lock Relocation - Jack Rosa
3. Helmet Lock Relocation to Sissy Bar - Ron Lokey (via vstar1100.com)
Tachometers (updated 03/20/08)

NOTE: The V*Star 1100 has a DUAL FIRE ignition - important to know when buying a Tach

Tach install:

KB wiring diagram shows wire colors: http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/Wiring/Wiring-US-02.jpg

For tach wiring, you would use one of the coil mounting bolts for the tach ground, use the orange/black striped wire (either tach) for the power fopr lights on tach, and then the orange wire (right/battery side) or gray (left/kickstand side) for the measuring/feed wire.

Permanent Mounted

There are many chrome, bar mounted Tachs - just search to find them

Here is an interesting alternative - LED Digital Tach with shift lights: courtesy of axesepul

Stewart Warner's Blue LED Ultra-Shift Light Digital Tachometer Part Number: 114919 - About $165

http://www.sw-performance.com/index.php?page=details&p=114919

Non-Mounted, "Temporary" Tachs:

Tiny Tach (BAMA) (About $35)

TT226NR-2C(Non reset-able minute use timer) or TT226R-2C (reset-able minute use timer)
Also two things everyone considering a tiny Tach should know...........
1. It has a 5 year battery and stays on all the time. When the battery dies you cannot change it.
2. Instructions say to use the white wire for ground but you don't have to do that and is a waste of time. It will work just fine by only wrapping the red wire around one of the spark plug wires a few times.

Electronic Specialties (ESI325) Digital Clamp-On Tach (About $45)
Clocks / Compasses / Thermometers (updated 2/14/06)

Riders Passion 15% off to discount for all V Star 1100 Riders forum members

Caution: Compasses: If you plan on mounting a compass on the bike, be aware that the mass of metal so close to the compass will render it ineffective - by distorting the readings. There are compasses available that allow for the "balancing" of the devise to account for the metal masses - they are relatively expensive and I have not heard of hopw effective they may be.
Bike Covers
Transporting/Tying down for Transport (updated 1/27/06)
1. Warning: Never tie down from the handle bars - rubber mounted - can damage!
2. Silverback's Discussion:
  
  Warning - never tie down with the handlebars - rubber mounted, can damage!
  
  Warning - always have the trailer securely attached to the pulling vehicle before attempting to load the bike.
  
  Warning - never cover a trailer/trucked bike with a cover - wind, flapping cover and road dust will destroy the paint and chrome!
  
  I always strap down the bike so that it is secure, but free to bounce on its suspension - helps absorb the road bumps and make the whole package (trailer and bike) ride super smooth -- and, it takes advantage of the built in shock absorbers of the bike's suspension, and avoids harsh compression of the springs/shocks. My trailer has a chock, located so the bike load is positioned on the trailer so as to provide equal load balance front to rear - does NOT add weight to the tongue. (more at the end).
  
  My preference is to use a "soft strap" around the lower front fork just at/above the point where the fender attaches - one strap on each side, secured to a mount on the front of the trailer at the side (front corner) via ratchet hold downs at least 1 inch wide.
  
  On the rear, I also use a "soft strap" on each side, low on the frame (really the swing arm) where it attaches to the wheel assembly. Picking the right spot is governed by your bags and exhaust system - taking care to avoid rubbing on the chrome or bags. You want to be as high as you can safely get, and still be on the swing arm - to avoid compressing the spring. Each soft strap is secured via a ratchet strap to a mount on the rear corner.
  
  I load my bike on the trailer and into the chock, shut it down and put town the kickstand, dismount, and then attach the straps as follows:
  1. Attach the left front strap as noted above, tightening just enough to leave some slack, but little enough slack to prevent the bike from tipping over to the other side when that side is tightened.
  2. Attach the right side front strap as noted above, and tighten down enough to bring the bike off the kickstand, and to begin tightening the strap on the other side.
  3. Work back and forth between the two front sides (loosening and tightening a little) to get the bike to stand upright.
  4. Then tighten down both front straps very tightly, and very evenly between the two sides - being sure to keep the bike level.
  5. Now add the two rear straps and tighten them both "gently" until they are balanced and equally taut.
  6. Now tighten down the rear straps evenly, very tightly - being sure to keep the bike level.
  I unload my bike as follows:
  1. Undo the two rear strap, and remove them from the bike
  2. Make sure the KICKSTAND IS DOWN
  3. Carefully loosen the right strap, bit by bit, until the bike is resting on the kickstand
  4. Remove the two front straps from the bike completely
  5. Roll the bike of the trailer - after having raised the kickstand.
  (Note: Some procedures call for all the straps to be attached to the trailer so they all pull the bike forward into the chock. I prefer the 4-corner approach - securing the bike with the front straps first (locking it tightly into the shock - and then the rear one to add stability).
  
  Chock and Bike Positioning.
  
  Ideally you want to position the chock so the bike's weight is positioned equally front to back - placing zero extra load on the trailer tongue. makes for the best balance for riding, and ensures you do not overload the trailer hitch, or under load the trailer hitch. Proper balance means the bike can be on the trailer, disconnected from the hitch, without any danger it will tip up in front.
  
  My trailer is a 5ft by 10ft steel framed trailer with pressure treated wood decking, a skeletal steel frame about 16-18 inches high around the front and two sides, and a steel framed 4ft long ramp across the entire end, covered with expanded metal mesh. (The tailgate is a heavy "sucker"!).
  
  When we originally configured the trailer, the tailgate was attached, and the weight on the tongue was about 120 pounds, empty. With that configuration the chock (the wide one from Pingle) was located on the center line and all the way forward on the decking. This placement as close to ideal, as the trailer with bike loaded combined to put 130 pounds on the hitch.
  
  The expanded metal tailgate made for two negative factors: the gate weight was a lot to haul around (I'd guess it to be 160-180 pound), and it caused a hell of a lot of wind resistance in its raised, transport position. Running over the same 100 mile route, with and without the gate attached and raised, I measure about 5-7 mpg fall-off with the tailgate attached.
  
  I removed the tailgate and replaced it with two sets of ramp brackets (4 brackets in total), with each attached to a PT 2x10 that is 5ft long. They are arranged with two abutting each other, side to side along the center line (a pair for the bike to ride on) and one on each side of the central pair - about 8 inches away from the central pair, on each side (for me to brace my feet on in case I need to put my feet down or 1/2 walk, 1/2 ride the bike up the ramp). Each bracket is secured to the trailer thru the decking with a long pin (provided with the brackets) - to ensure they do not move side to side or kick out and off the trailer. As an added precaution, I have a 2x4 that spans the underside of the 4 planks, and maintains the plank spacing via holes drilled thru the planks on the 2x4, which are secured with 1/2 inch carriage bolts, onto which I loosely spin nuts. When not in use, the cross piece is removed and stowed in the tow vehicle, and the planks are secured to the trailer - carefully and firmly.
  
  The removal of the tailgate significantly changed the balance / load distribution of the trailer, and the trailer-bike combo. I needed to position the chock so the bike was as far back on the trailer as it could go with none of it hanging off the rear. With the chcok and bike in the new location, the load on the tongue was just about the same as before - about 130 pounds.
  
  Why Tie Down Below the Shocks/Springs?
  
  On my first trip, I followed the advice of some 'veteran" towers, and tied the bike down from high on the front (not on the bars, and high on the back from the sissy bar to fender attachment. I then followed advice and climbed up on the bike and had my beefy freind tighten down the straps so that sucker was tight, with the springs loaded. I then drove 685 miles with the trailer and bike bouncing all over the place - because the entire load was rigid, and it just bounced!
  
  I then talked to more folks and got the good advice, which matched my experience, to let the bike suspension absorb the load (as it does when you ride) -- and tied it down as noted above. - Smooth trip.
1. Some Reading on How to: (Thanks, H*)
  
  http://www.sportutilitytrailers.com/motorcycle-tie-down-procedure.htm
  
  http://www.mad-ducati.com/tiedown/TieDown.html
  
  http://www.micapeak.com/bike/FJR1300/howto/bikeramp.html
DIY Bike Trailer/Hauler - Courtesy of Daddo (DaddoCFL) (updated 6/03/06)

This project was begin with a three very clear goals in mind. Low cost, dual use, easily stored.

With space at a premium, I wanted a trailer that could be stored in a very compact space. -- This project trailer easily folds in thirds and can be rolled on it’s own dolly wheels into the garage where it requires a 2’ x 5’ space against one of the walls.

I wanted a reliable motorcycle trailer that could be assembled at an extremely low cost. -- This 1,175 lb. capacity folding trailer, with 12” wheels, was purchased from my local Harbor Freight showroom for $229.00 on sale (List $289.00). It is on sale right now in the catalog for $249. but the prices change frequently and this same trailer is usually offered on sale every single month. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90154 and the manual/assembly instructions are available at: http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/90000-90999/90154.pdf

The trailer is decked with a $22.00 sheet of ¾” exterior plywood, held in place by a few dozen 3/8” carriage bolts.

I picked up the front wheel chock at my local Yamaha dealer for $17.00. Although it is really not needed, I used a couple of 2”x 4” x 8’ rails that are screwed to some scrap 3/8” plywood stock (dark finish in the photos). This allowed the entire "rail" assembly to be removed in a few minute to allow folding and storing the trailer.

I replaced a number of the stake pocket bracket bolts with 3/8” eyebolts to provide a number of tie down points for the bike or other cargo. Including the ($19) wheeled jack in the front of the trailer A-Frame, the project cost me less then $300.

This little boy has a 20" deck height, and tracks very well and it is easily pulled by my Honda Civic which gets substantially better mileage then the Ford Explorer. Loaded with a V-Star 1100, the thing is only carrying a bit over half of it's rated capacity so the tires are in no jeopardy. I had the very same sized tires and wheels on a Coleman pop-up camper that weighed 1,279 lbs. The trailer and the V-Star don’t come anywhere near that weight.

If anyone cares for specific details I will be glad to share my construction experience.

More detail:

The 4’ x 8’ plywood deck is cut exactly in half. Each half is secured to the trailer frame. The fixed 4’ x 4’ frame up front, and the 4’ x 4’ foldable section in the rear. If you look at the right photo above, you will notice the top of one of the two hinges right near the front of the right wheel well cover.

You unbolt (4) 1/2” carriage bolts, and the entire rear section of the trailer lifts up and folds flat on the front section. It is still on it’s main wheels.

In the left photo, notice the vertical bracket with two caster wheels just to the rear of the wheel wells. When the rear half of the trailer deck is secured to the front half, you can lift the front of the trailer and stand it up on the four small rolling casters. Then all you do is pull two half inch diameter Hitch pins, and you will drop the “A” frame down against the folded trailer. The folded size is just under 5’ wide by 2’ deep and it stands about 5’ or so high. This will allow you to roll the folded trailer into it’s storage space and even fit under some overhead shelves. Pretty slick!

The track assembly was actually intended as a structural member to distribute the weight of the bike more equally across the top of the trailer instead of just under the wheels. As it turns out it is quite strong and would even serve as a ramp, but that was not my intent. The 2” x 4” x 8” spruce studs are gorilla glued (I figured you (SilverBack) would like that) and screwed to 3/8” plywood from the bottom into the studs. I just happened to have the 3/8” ply in the shop, but 1/2" or thicker would work fine as well.

The width of the assembly was dictated by the width of the wheel chock that I bought at the Yamaha dealer. After I positioned it where I wanted it, I drilled down through the assembly and the deck with 10?? 3/8” holes. I secured it to the deck with 1-1/2” long, 9/16” bolts, lock washers and flat washers. From the bottom of the deck I inserted 9/16” blind hole nuts (the one’s with the little barbs on them) with a dab of Gorilla Glue on each of the flange bases. Once they are tightened up, the barbs dig in and they become one with the deck. When the bolts are pulled, the blind hole nuts sit right there and wait until next time. The four bolts that secured the wheel chock are also 9/16” but they are 2-1/4” long.

Construction/assembly comments:

By the way, if you make one, don't use the 3/4" plywood that they recommend. I had it on there and did not like the way that the trailer folded up as there was some binding. I replaced the deck with 5/8” exterior sanded plywood and the trailer and I are both happier. Also, secure the deck with 3/8” carriage bolts, not the ½” that they specify.

The larger bolts are overkill.

If you take the plunge and buy one, I will have more to say about wiring the lights. The folded trailer takes a LOT of slack wire to make it around the fold. Their instructions underestimate the amount you need by 4”.

A socket wrench will remove the rail assembly in under 3 minutes!:

You can use any type of ramp that you desire, however I chose an aluminum 1,500 lb capacity tri-fold ramp and I ride the bike right up on to the trailer and into the chock. The ramp was also on sale at Harbor Freight for $79.00 (as it is in the on-line catalog store). Oh yes, I modified that too by adding expanded steel mesh to the center section and added 4 additional hinges as well for extra strength.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90018
Chrome HD Retro Tool Box (updated 10/29/07)

From Daddo (Resize bracket diagram so it fits ruler markings)

click for larger image

Installed - left side Bracket Bracket Template

Order from J&P Cycles:

http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=08EE0033-56CE-4FE1-954B-C5001750E337

&search=chrome%20toolbox&store=All&page=1

Alternate Bracket - from GASMAN (DYBACH):

My mount places toolbox a little more forward over vertical frame section since it mounts off the frames tab for pas peg mount And not off the swing arm. Both Daddo's set up or this one will get the job done. GASMAN

click for bigger pic
Road Tools (What to Carry Along) (updated 1/4/06)

The Magic Bag - Necessities Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine
Behind-the-Bike Trailers (updated 3/28/06)

Visit the Delphi Form on Motorcycle Trailer Towing

Unique: Hauls your Bike, Becomes Trike Kit

See Also: Trikes

Hitches:

Giv Ziv a shout - he makes 'em -- http://zivney.net/

See Forum on Trailering, above

Discussion on Trailing Behind Bike:

-- shebner:

A couple things to watch for, make sure that when the bike is loaded, rider, passenger, weight of trailer on hitch etc. that the trailer tongue is level or better yet slightly lower than the centre line of the trailer axle. The reason for this is for braking. If the trailer axle centre line is slightly higher than the hitch as you brake the trailer weight will ADD weight to the hitch and there will be more weight to the road on your tires for increased traction during braking. If on the other hand your axle centre line is below the hitch as you brake the weight of the trailer will force the hitch up which will decrease the weight on the back end of the bike and weight on your rear tire leaving you with less traction for braking.

Going through corners on a lumpy road, the trailer, as one wheel then the other hit pot holes etc will have the effect of waggling (for lack of a better word) the front tire of the bike and can be quite disconcerting until you get a feel for it,kind of like the tail wagging the dog. It's generally not a problem if the rest of the bike and trailer are set up and the weight in the trailer is distributed properly.

Have fun I've pulled mine for the last 3 summers on vacation and haven't had any problems, Oh, 1 problem, sometimes I forget the trailer is there and have gone hard and fast into a few corners, it really shakes ya up when you see someone following you close behind through your peripheral vision in the mirror only to find out it's your trailer as you glance at the mirror once through the turn. I use a piece of surveyors tape tied in a conspicuous spot on the handlebars now as a reminder LOL

Vent Your Gas Cap (updated 1/11/06)

        Note: Check your gas cap several times/year - screws have been known to loosen and drop parts into tank

Discussion:

Riding along and the bike starts to act like you've just hit reserve (but you know you've got plenty of gas left? Stop in the middle of a ride to get a snack and come back out to bike that will crank but not start? Try taking off and replacing your gas cap - you may find that the problem goes away. If it does, it means you may need to vent the gas cap.

Here's instructions on how to vent VSatr Gas Caps:

        http://www.ragdoll.net/bike/gascap.htm

Here's an article that tells you how to do it - for a Road Star cap, but it will work with the one on your Vstar.

        http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/136/96
Traffic Light Triggers (updated 1/25/06)

Discussion:

Daddo (DaddoCFL):

Are you tired of getting stuck at traffic lights because your bike is too small to be detected by the inductive loop buried in the pavement.

Traffic signal sensors are essentially metal detectors buried in the road surface. These "inductive loop" sensors are easy to spot because they have a circular, square, or diamond-shaped saw cut in the pavement just before the intersection. There is a weak radio frequency field over the coil, and a large inductive mass disturbs that field. Loop detectors are meant to pick up the presence of large masses of metal - like cars and trucks - sitting still over the detector loop.

Most modern bikes don't have enough inductive material in their frames to trip the sensor, and what they have tends to be oriented vertically above the loop (making it harder to sense) so we get stuck.

A powerful magnet emits a wide and powerful magnetic field that when passed over a detector loop, disturbs the loop's field, simulating the arrival of a much larger vehicle. When the control computer sees that signal, it knows someone's there, and the biker gets a green light, just like everyone else.

You can spring for $14.95 for the commercially available Green Light Trigger, or you can cough up $24.95 the "New High Power" Green Light Trigger. (http://www.discountbuy.com/greenlighttrigger/solution.htm) These are small magnets that are secured to the bottom of your bike, to make it more "visible" to the magnetic field created by the traffic sensor induction loop. Fairly expensive for small magnets that admittedly don't work all of the time.

There is of course a better solution.

Pick up something like this at any welding supply place or order a 2" Magnetic Ground Block for $3.99 at Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43640

(If link comes up empty - try search for welding, magnets, welding ground, etc)

Remove the Brass grounding bolt and toss it out (or have your ear pierced and bolt it on).

I epoxyed one to the flat cross member that is under the bike, and about even with the leading edge of the battery compartment cover. I tested it out at an intersection in Downtown Oviedo that is known to ignore the presence of a bike.

Bam! The light changed for me!

Some Other Solutions:

-- SilverBack:

I have one light near me that is "iffy" sometimes it trips, sometimes not. When It doesn't, I try a trick a fellow rider passed along: Use the kill switch to stop the bike and then immediately restart it -- seems the current fluctuation of the starter motor is strong enough to trick the trip - which is basically an electronic metal detector, using a current loop to detect the large mass of metal that is a car, but often not a bike. Every time I try this, this and other lights respond.

-- MCN says to get your bike over one of the buried wires and put your kickstand down - works every time according to them.

-- Other folks have used strong magnets from various sources: old speaker magnets, magnets for some motors, magnets from old computer hard drives, even what is called a cow magnet available at farm supply stores (used to trap metal in cows stomachs, I guess -- don't look at me, I just report this stuff!).

Kickstand Extension (updated 3/14/06)

Make It Easier to Hook For Deployment - Mookie's Silver Bullet Mod

See the silver round button head screw to the right of the kickstand? Originally there was nothing there. You need to look at the kickstand and see where it hits that place. Take a magic marker and mark where it's touching. Take the bracket off or if you can do this while it's on the bike that will work too. You then drill a hole with a .201 drill bit, tap it 1/4 20 all the way through. Then you put a stainless steel button head screw 1/2 inch long in the hole. After the screw is in the hole you grind the button head of the screw until the kickstand stops at the place you desire. Make sure the screw is in the hole tight before you start grinding on it. :-)

Here's a pic of the screw from the side to show how thin mine is.

Hope this makes sense. If you can't figure it out you can take the directions to a mechanic and I'm sure he can do it for you.

From TJ (tj1100cl): -- you could probably get the same spacer effect by jb welding a washer in the same spot, or on the kickstand itself in the same contact spot.

Side Cover Mod (updated 3/28/06)

Classic vs. Custom vs. Classic - submitted by H*, from 1bigmofo
Flag Pole Mounts (updated 4/22/06)

Option 1 - Courtesy of Daddo (DaddoCFL) - Fits all 1100's, perhaps with spacing modes for some bags

This is a flag pole mounting bracket option for a 3’x 5’ bike mounted flag for Patriot Guard Riders Missions.

The goal here was to enable the use of a 3’x 5” flag on a 6’ – 3/4" flag pole. (electrical conduit pole – this will also work with a wooden pole, but I’m trying for a lightning strike to put me out of my misery.)

I wanted the bracket to blend into the frame of the bike without the use of ugly bungie cords or other paraphernalia to hold it in place. I also wanted a design that used existing mounting points, and could be installed or removed in under 5 minutes without screwing up the finish of the bike. I will most likely paint the bracket satin black and the NEW wooden pole will be left in it’s natural state and varnished. (or a fiberglass pole if I get lucky at my favorite surplus store).

Used 1/4 inch aluminum plate, I actually used a saber saw / jig saw with a course tooth metal cutting blade from Home Depot. The course teeth won’t load up with molten aluminum as easily as a fine cut blade. You also need to keep the reciprocating speed a bit on the slow side to avoid friction melting of the aluminum.

Can it be adapted to clear Silverado or other saddlebags? There is always a way.

Were you thinking between the fender and the bags? Since I do not have mounted bags to look at, I don't know how much space you have.
Another possibility is running the pole up just in front of the bags. It appears as though you can use the same or a similar bracket to the one that I made. You may need to position the pole slightly closer to the three mounting bolts then I did, but that should still work fine.

Test this assumption by taking your flagpole (or a broom handle) and see what kind of angle you can get while clearing the bags and the driver’s butt.

Update: Now, (no longer have the lightning rod) the bike mounted flag on a 5’ wooden flagpole is a 2-1/2’ x 3-3/4” Nylon, marine grade embroidered and sewn and reinforced flag. This thing is made to move through the air without coming apart. After a quick run to StarCraft Surplus tomorrow, the natural wood of my bike mounted flagpole will be covered in 1” black shrink wrap tubing (or maybe white – could be a last minute decision). It is my thought that the shrink wrap will look a lot better then the bare wood pole. In addition, it would add a huge amount of strength to the wooden pole.

Pictures below show bracket in use, bracket with instructions, bracket mounting location, bracket mounted, and a link to the pattern for drilling-cutting (size it up to match the "ruler" on the picture = true size) -- The shape of the bottom section is actually not critical, but was cut that way on this version to leave the maximum amount of metal in place (for stiffness). Try a cardboard version first to make sure the three mounting holes are aligned. When you bolt the real one into place, you can position the flag pole where you want it to ride, and then mark the locations for your “U” bolt holes.

Click for larger version

Pattern File (.tif) - right click and select "save target as"

Option 2- Courtesy of me, SilverBack (AGBack): (Based on Daddo's, But Instantly Dismountable)

Daddo's wonderful design, above, inspired me to trash my original wood holder, strapped to the pillion, as too large, too cumbersome and too ugly, even though I was pleased with it initially- until Daddo raised the bar.

My version, like Daddo's original, uses 1/4 aluminum plate, designed to fit behind the right boomerang frame piece, and is mounted with bolts to the stock passenger peg mounting holes and also the upper bolt hole for the stock rear exhaust bracket. I also use 1/4 inch U-bolts with nylox bolts to fasten the pole (in my case, pole holder) to the mount. Like Daddo, I have yet to decide whether rattle can paint it black - or leave it natural aluminum (in which case same swirling will be required to make mine as presentable as his. Currently I am leaning to painting it back - les obtrusive, make it look more "professional".

My version differs from Daddo's in two major respects:   a) I moved the flag mounting U-bolts further forward and much closer to the bracket mounting bolts - to allow the pole to clear the front of my hard bags; and   b) I went with separate pole holder and pole - both using steel electrical conduit (as Daddo's calls it - lightning rod material).

The flag holder, as noted above, is attached with U-bolts to and becomes a part of the bracket (see pictures below). The flag holder is a piece of 3/4 inch steel conduit, cut 19 inches long, and has a 1/4 inch bolt drilled through and fastened at the lower end to prevent the flag pole from sliding out the bottom when inserted.

To ensure the holder and flag pole will stand away from the bike, I used spacers behind the upper end of the holder. In addition to the flat bar that comes with the U-bolt, 4 1/2 inch washers are used to space out the upper end. To clarify, coming from the rear side of the bracket, each leg of the upper U-bolt is set up as: Nylox nut, bracket plate, 4 1/4 inch washers, the flat plate that comes with the U-bolt, then the holder 3/4 inch conduit, and then the curved section of the U-bolt. The last picture below shows the arrangement, clearer than these words!

With the mount on the bike but the flag pole not in place - passenger comes nowhere near the top of the holder - YES! The rider can swing leg over with no interference - YES! I usually mount with the flag not in place, then turn on place it in the holder. With all in place, no interference from the pole or the flag (if moving). When deployed, the flag just clears the top of the head of my little stuffed riding buddy - the real silver back!

The flag pole is 1/2 inch steel conduit, and rattles around loosely when inserted into the 3/4 inch conduit holder. To eliminate the rattle, and to ensure the pole will not be extracted by the wind while riding at highway speeds it was necessary to reduce the ID of the holder. I purchased a "screw in coupler" for 3/4 inch conduit and filed off the screw threads on one end and then with a hammer tapped the filed-down end into the end top end of the holder - very tight fit. The ID of the "screw in coupler" is just a hair over the OD of the flag pole, so a little squeeze with channel lock pliers allowed me to misshape the top just enough so the fit is snug.

My pole, is 1/2 steel conduit, 78 inches long (6 ft 6 in), with 1/4 inch eye bolts drilled and fastened through the conduit near the top and another 36 inches lower - to provide attachment points for the 3 ft by 5 ft flag I fly while riding (and also use when dismounted and presenting PGR flag honors). Currently I fasten the flag to the eye bolts with white nylon cords, extra long to drape down and give a decorative effect. Based on another PGR rider's design, I think I will switch from the cord to the use of those aluminum, spring-loaded clips folks use to attach their keys to their belt loops - carabineers. Fast sure, strong attachment.

Pictures: (Click pictures for larger image)

-- The first picture shows the details of my mounting bracket and its attachment to the bike.

        Note that I have placed the U-bolts further forward, closer to the mounting bolts, to clear my bags.

-- The second picture shows the bracket from top to bottom, including the ID reducer at the top of the mount and the flag pole inserted.

-- The third picture shows the top of the pole holder - to show the position of the top of the assembly relative to my Mustang front and rear seats, and you can see the front edge of my large LeatherLyke bags..

-- The last picture is my crude drawing of the upper U-bolt, washer-nut-etc arrangement.



Thanks, Larry (Daddo) for cool design for me to adapt! Works like a charm!

Garage Door Opener (updated 6/03/06)

Threads:

http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=14433.1

Mods:

On speedo case: http://www.vstar1100.com/Garage%20Door%20Opener%20Mod.pdf
Gas Tank Mods, Etc (updated 03/04/07)
1. Getting More Gas In - Modifying the "Sleeve" Inside the Filler
  
  Generally you can get more gas into the tank if you fill the bike while it is on the kick stand. The placement of the filler on the side opposite the kickstand allows more gas to be put in the tank, and the sleeve inside the filler helps prevent fuels slop when you right the bike and the fuel levels out.
  
  Careful, slow additions of gas after the auto-fill click-off will let you squeeze in as much as an added 1/2 gallon (some say more) - so go after a really full fill up slowly (especially helpful when riding across deserted, low gas station areas - BAG).
  
  Others have advocated the removal or modification of the sleeve inside the filler. I have heard of no-one having removed the sleeve.
  
  DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN THE SLEEVE!!! You will hate yourself forever after the drill filling fall into the tank and you have to replace the tank.
  
  Carefully use a sharp metal punch to make 4 to 6 holes in the sleeve, which will allow you to add more gas faster than if there were no holes.
  
  From Lowphat: Better be careful not to create sparks too. Don't ask me how I know. <VBG>
Suicide Shifter (updated 08/26/07)

Pictures of cruxmystar's suicide shifter: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=23551.1

Amador Finetune customs - suicide shifter: http://www.aftcustoms.com/

Suicide shifter thread: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=26795.1
Engine Removal/Breakdown (updated10/16/07)

Courtesy of Joe Conway (Our Engine Expert):

Engine Removal and Break-down

Starting from the point of having removed the seats, tank, exhaust, carbs, all the plastic chrome head covers, and the neck covers which cover the coils up front . You will need one those small rolling Hydraulic floor jacks. You can get one at any Auto Parts Store

These directions should be used with the Repair Manual for reference and you should also read thru the Cam Install Procedure instructions as they will also apply. READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING

Have a full set of Metric wrenches/ sockets/ allen wrenches on hand. If your tool situation is not good I suggest going to Sears and buying a good set.

You will need a variety of different size sockets and wrenches including a TQ Wrench

1^st Get the bike up on a stand or use some 2x6 lumber and place it under the bike just in front of the rear wheel. You will need to jack the bike up a little.

Now we start to take parts off.

1. Start on the left side of the bike and remove the kick stand and let it hang.

2. Remove Floor board/foot peg/shift lever

3. Remove the lower left rear side trans cover and the tool cover with the key lock

4. Remove the small cover where the clutch cable goes into on the motor. Then loosen the clutch cable adjuster on the handle bars and go back down and slip the other end out of the clutch arm.

5. You’ll see a bundle of wires with connectors. Some of the wires are coming from the left side crankcase cover. Unhook everything and cut any zip ties holing them together (remember to re zip tie on install)

6. The tool storage unit gets removed completely (left side only not the battery side), take your time, there is three or four small bolts that hold it in place and one in behind the battery that hold both sides together. Slide the fuel pum off its retainer tabs and leave hanging in place, and the fuel filter just gets slipped out of it’s retainer tabs but not unhooked. Also at this time remove the speedo sensor ( 1 bolt )

Refer to the Repair manual for pics

7. At this point take the rolling floor jack and place it under the motor. Use a couple of rags so as not to damage the bottom and snug it up.

8. Remove the rear upper and lower engine stays and associated bolts form the motor and frame on the left rear of the engine/frame, there are two bolts holding each stay to the frame. Move to the right side and remove the one remaing bolt from the rear mount.

9. Take the Battery cover off , unhook the bat cables

10 Remove the floorboard/foot peg and at the same time the rear master cylinder and brake reservoir and carefully pull them around to the rear of the bike and let them lay.

11. There are three leads that need to be removed on the right side, 1 is the oil sensor which can be unplugged right by the front of the battery. You see a male/female connector. Just pull the apart carefully

The other is a ground wire you will find a piggy backed on the batter ground cable. Unhook at the split connector and the negative battery cable comes out with the motor. The 3rd is the starter motor power line, unhook from the starter. The starter stays put

12. Remove the front lower engine stays ( mounts ). Then remove the right side down tube. Two bolts on each end.

Are you ready?? Set up a couple of small pieces of 2x4’s side by side to the front right side of the bike to put the motor on after it comes out of the frame. You might want to grab a friend to help here. The motor weighs a lot be careful.

13. Make sure the jack is pretty much centered on the bottom of the motor and take out the remaining 4 front upper mount bolts and she is free. Roll the jack You will have to progressively lower it as you go. Lift the motor onto the 2 pieces of 2x’s secure it and take a break.

Engine Procedure

END GAP THE RINGS as per the instructions on the J&E web site. They are usually within spec. So don’t get too crazy here

.

We are going to do one cylinder and cam at a time. This should be a must for 1st timers working on this motor. There have been several people who have disassembled both cylinders at once and had some major problems due to not knowing how to set up the motor properly. BIG PROBLEMS, BIG MONEY. Trust me and follow these steps.

WE WILL BE STARTING STARTING WITH THE REAR CYLINDER.

MAKE SURE TO USE AMPLE ASSEMBLY LUBE ON THE NEW CAMS AND THE PISTON PINS. THIS IS CRITICAL FOR THE INITIAL STARTUP OF THE MOTOR. MOST FAILURES AND DAMAGE HAPPEN WITHIN THE FIRST FEW MINUTES OF OPERATION DUE TO LACK OF LUBRICATION AND OR NOT ENOUGH ASSEMBLY LUBE.

14. Remove the side cover from the rear head to expose the camshaft gear. Use a large flat head screw driver to remove both the large and small plug on the (L) crankcase cover. Using a 22mm long socket on the crank shaft nut thru the large hole turn the crank clockwise. Then following the instructions in the manual to bring the rear cylinder up to TDC and line up the rear timing mark, T l , in the small timing hole on the crankcase cover, The motor turns clockwise from the left side. The cam gear dot may be off the head pointer slightly when the Tl timing mark is lined up. Take note of how they align in reference to one another, and remember for when the cylinder is going back together. Sometimes the cam gear marks are off about a ½ tooth

15. Now we want to break the cam gear bolt free. Use the ratchet thru the crank nut hole to keep the motor form spinning. If it moves line everything back up after it is loose. Don’t remove just yet. Leave the bolt finger tight

Place a piece of rag into the timing chain slot to keep debris or parts falling into the motor. Remove the tensioner. Remove the cam gear bolt, use a piece of wire to keep the timing chain from falling into the motor. Remove the cam gear and place aside. ***refer to the cam install instructions

Now it is very important that you do not lose track of the crank shaft position. It can move a little but don’t forget to move it back to the timing mark before lining up the new cams. We’ll get to that soon

16. On the rear cylinder start loosening the head nuts. There is also a cap nut in by the spark plug, and two 6mm allen bolts by the cam chain galley. Follow the repair manual for reference. Once they are off you will need 2 very slim regular screw drivers.

Start tapping the driver between the head and cylinder on opposite sides. Take your time and work up with thicker screw drivers until you can pull the head off.

Place the head aside.

17. Take out the three bolts holding the cylinder and repeat with the screw drivers and ease the cylinder off the piston. Remember if the crank shaft moves don’t lose track of the rear timing mark. Stuff rags around the piston rod. Use an all or pointy small screw driver and remove the circlip from one side of the piston pin. Slide the piston pin out. Be real easy if you need to tap it a little to get it going. Remove the old piston.

Now it is time to check the end gap of the rings all rings should have around .015 to .017 inch gap. Use the old piston and follow the direction from the manual and the J&E. they will most likely be OK

New Piston setup

18 The spreadable center oil ring goes on 1^st and then the lower and upper oil ring. Then the second compression ring then the top ring (VERY IMPORTANT THE little letter on the top two rings face up) . Follow the instructions in the repair manual on how to space the rings. Make sure you get the piston on the piston rod correctly. They go on one way. Match the dome of the piston with the head. The intake valve relief is also closer to the edge of the piston. Install one of pin clips in the piston 1^st and put the piston on the rod with the piston pin and secure it with the other pin clip.

19. Working with the head on your bench. Remove the cam. It’s easy. 1^st remove the cam retainer., and then put the cam gear bolt back in the cam end and use it to pull on ( a pair of vise grips on the bolt will help to pull the cam). Next the valve springs will be replaced with the new dual spring kit. You have to have the cam out to remove/install the new springs. You will need to follow the repair manual on this, and the directions that come with the springs. Keep in mind that spring heights and clearances have already been worked out. You should not need shims for the new springs. Just use the new lower and upper spring retainers.

Then Slide the new cam back in the same way the old cam came out ( look at the pointer and dot ) .

Put the Cam gear back on temporarily and line up the dot to the head pointer. You will adjust the valves after the head is back on and torqued down. Follow cam install directions.

.10mm intake and .12mm exhaust. Refer to the cam install instructions

CLEAN ALL SURFACES TO READY THEM FOR NEW GASKETS. DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF GASKET MAKER OR SEALER WITH THESE NEW GASKETS, AND CHECK THAT ALL THE SPACERS AND DOWL GUIDES ARE IN THERE HOLES ON THE HEAD AND CYLINDER. REFER TO THE MANUAL

CYINDER ASSEMBLY REFER TO REPAIR MANUAL FOR PICS

21. Slide the cylinder carefully over the piston using one hand to work the rings into the cylinder. Again make sure the rings are properly lined up with the little letter N on the top two rings facing upwards

Again you want to make sure the timing mark is still on it mark thru the timing hole. Bolt the cylinder down, TQ TO SPECS

22. Put the head on Torque the bolts to spec. and follow the proper tightening procedure. Put the cam gear back on with the chain. Most 1100’s are about ½ tooth off on the rear cylinder. Just make sure to set up the cam the way the old cam came out. Meaning if the cam gear dot was a 1/2 tooth off the pointer it goes back in a 1/2 tooth off the pointer. MAKE SURE TO READ THE CAM INSTALL DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY. DON’T FORGET TO RESET THE CHAIN TENSIONERS

Don’t put the side cover on the head just yet.

Spin the motor 290 degrees clockwise and start over on the front cylinder. Be alert and don’t turn by the front timing mark ( I ). The easiest way is to watch the cam gear dot come up on the head pointer as you are turning the crank. When it gets close start looking for the timing mark. The front cylinder timing mark is the single line ( I ) cut in the flywheel rotor. Do not use the the mark with the FI. It is not the front timing mark.

Now Just repeat the process

AS ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK ALL WORK. SPIN THE MOTOR BY HAND 1^ST.

DOUBLE CHECK ALL THE DIRECTIONS INCLUDING THE CAM INSTALL.

ENGINE BREAK IN SHOULD INCLUDE AT LEAST THREE HEAT CYCLES ON THE MOTOR ALONG WITH SOME NORMAL RIDING. AFTER HEAT CYCLES DO SEVERAL RUNS TO HIGH RPMS, THEN LETTING THE ENGINE DECELERATE. THIS WILL HELP WITH THE RINGS SEATING PROPERLY. I USE 3RD GEAR RUNS WHEN DOING THIS.

***Heat cycle is letting the motor cool completely before running again.

Reinstalling the engine into the frame is basically the reverse of taking it out. You need to tilt the motor forward and move it in on an angle with the rear going in 1^st. Watch the right lower fixed engine stay and the mount on the engine case. You have to get the engine case mount to the inside of this stay. Watch the universal joint slide into the shaft pocket and make sure it goes on the shaft. There is no real easy way to explain this but to say take your time and have a 2^nd person helping. It will slide into place easy.

Rebuilt Engine Startup Procedure - from Cobb (Jacob Groenveld):

I have recently rebuilt my engine -Refer post http://forums.delphiforums.com/BRISRA/messages?msg=271.15 and I recommend the following Rebuilt Engine Startup Process be placed in the Engine Rebuild section of the KB.

INITIAL STARTING PROCESS FOR REBUILT ENGINE:

If you have performed a complete disassembly and rebuild of your engine then the following initial start-up process will ensure the oil lines and feeders are fully primed and oil has been pre- circulated throughout the engine to minimize start-up wear and tear.

This process assumes your engine is rebuilt, topped with fresh oil and ready to start:

1. Remove spark plugs

2. Turn off fuel cock

3. Crank engine over for approx 15-20 seconds or until oil warning light goes out.

4. Wait 30 seconds and repeat step 2

5. Replace spark plugs

6. Turn on Fuel cock

7. Start Engine - run until hot (have fan blowing on engine if more than 5 mins of stationary idle)

Also recommended is an initial rebuild engine flush. Use a lighter than normal grade of cheap dino oil 10w30 or similar and always use a new oil filter for the initial first heat-up only. After following the above start-up process, run the engine no longer than 15 minutes then completely drain the oil, remove and replace the oil filter (Yes, it is only new but its full of rubbish) and then let the engine cool down to air temperature. Add new 20w40 oil of your preference and follow the normal Break-In procedures depending on what you rebuilt/replaced.

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