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>> Last Updated: 06/23/2008 08:13 PM Central Time <<
20. Paint, Polishing, Decals, Graphics, Body work (Back to Topics)
Body Work Decals Decal/Graphic Install Decal/Graphic- Removal Graphics Paint Scratch Repair Painting
Painting-Shaker Can-DIY Polishing Powder Coating Repainting Cylinders Scoop, Chin
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Paint Scratch Repair (updated 9/9/06)
Question: In haste I used a rag I thought was clean to wipe off a few water spots on the gas tank. I realized later that I had put a few fine scratches in it. Can these be rubbed out / polished out?
Answers:
-- Get some polishing compound, I use the turtle wax green. Rub the scratches out and then get the Meguire's 3-step cleaner, polish, wax system. that should take care of it.
-- This'll do it...Hawg Link ScratchX
-- Yes, this stuff Hawgstar put a link to kicks butt. For my bike I use it with a small hand held buffer.
Another Answer: (imnezrider (mdpar3)
"Meguires also makes a scratch remover". The specific product I always have on hand (for cars/bikes) is called Scratch X. http://www.autogeek.net/megscratxfin.html It's 'milder' than compound, etc., but very effective on superficial blemishes. Even heavy 'elbow grease' doesn't create new problems.
Short seminar: You might be surprised at how much can be done with clearcoat finishes when it comes to 'light' scratches. Everything depends on the depth, but always start with a product with very little abrasive content. If that isn't changing things, then carefully go one step further...such as 2000 grit wet sandpaper. Pour a bit of detergent in with your water and keep the surface/paper as wet as possible while lightly sanding the area (in one direction). Stop often and dry the area in order to see your progress. If the clearcoat was not totally penetrated by the original scratch, chances are this process will be effective. Once the scratch has 'disappeared', then work the area with a sightly abrasive polish (not wax!). Continue with less and less abrasive products until the gloss is obvious. Now you can apply a good wax and you're done.
The key is to take it slow and easy. However, if you happen to go through the clear and into the pigment, no real harm done because your painter would have to sand the area anyway. -
Repainting Cylinders (updated 03/30/08)
Larry Rymal (Rymal1):
Remove the engine to repaint the black of the cylinders? Oh, gosh no!
Look, sit down on the ground next to your bike. Look it over, admire it. You can repaint the cylinder black for both cylinders in under 30 minutes. At the same time, you can touch-up nicks on the frame tubes in under ten. All of this is done with rattle can spray paint.
All I did was just get some tape, scrap paper and covered areas that don't do well with over-spray. I just keep it very simple. Even scrap cardboard held up to cover a fender works. Nothing meticulously sanded or prepped because you are going to have to do this each season, if you want that nice look. Takes every bit of 15 minutes. At the end of winter, I give the bike a good cleaning, checking of rust pits on the chrome, etc., and include the painting treatment at the same time. There's nothing to this.
BBQ grill black paint sticks to nearly anything. Just prep the fins by cleaning them with a brush. I don't prep by sanding anything.
Your painting is not going to be the fine work of art like painting your tank would be. You are just spraying the cylinder fins and their black. That's all. And after you sand the newly dried paint off the fin edges, you'll be amazed just how great it all looks.
BBQ grill paint, Flat-black HI-TEMP Exhaust paint is great for this sort of thing. As a side note, any Rust-O-Leum glossy black is great for touching up your frame tubes, in case nicks have exposed the metal.
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SPRAY/SHAKER CAN PAINTING (updated 2/14/06)
SwaMan (swa3) Shaker Can Acrylic Lacquer with Enamel Clear Topcoat
If there are any back-porch painters here who have or are contemplating a rattle can paint job, I may have some valuable advice. Last year, I used Duplicolor rattle-cans to do a home grown custom job on my bike, using techniques I learned at a trade school in the 70's.
The job came out purrrrrrfect, and colorsanding and buffing gave it a glass like finish. NOBODY knew it wasn't a $1200.00 pro job! The entire bike was done in acrylic lacquer, out of SPRAY CANS for under $50.00.
ALAS, the first gas spill completely destroyed my work, forcing me to decide whether to try again, or pay the bucks for a professional job. Poor slob that I am, I opted to read up on paint types and give it another go. I even enquired on here about finding a fuel safe alternative top coat.
Well.....now the GOOD NEWS! ENAMEL spray paint is much more gas and solvent resistant!!! I sprayed the top of an extra tank (thanks, Ebay) with Duplicolor acrylic enamel clear, let it dry for a week, poured gas all over it, and waited........and WAITED. Guess what happened. NUTHI'N! Washed it off with a little soap and water, and it shined like a diamond.
I went ahead and repainted (a classic style, with 40's HD colors) the bike again, with acrylic lacquer, and used ENAMEL clear topcoatYou CAN do this, but NOT lacquer on top of enamel. This bike (IMHO) looks great! Although I'm in NO hurry to test my theory on chemical resistance, I'm quite confident that this job is gonna hold up MUCH better than the last.
ecook280
As far as prep goes, I wiped the parts down with wax and grease remover, I don't recall the exact brand I used, got it at the local auto parts store. After that I sanded them down with 220 grit just to see how much body work I had to do. After all the body work was done, sanded with 220 and then 440 grit, wiped them down again, 1 coat of primer, sand with 800 grit, wiped them down again, 2 coats of Duplicolor High Gloss Black.
mitchelguita
-- I will tell you the best trick for painting with a spray can. It is to heat the can up by running it under hot tap water. Heat it for ten minutes, than shake the can. If the can get cold repeat until the can remains warm in your hand. The results are a fine mist.
-- The other thing to remember is distance for flat black you want the paint to lay down dry. To do this, keep the distance between 10 and 12 inches away. For a gloss look the distance should be 7 to 9 inches away. Start spraying before you reach the object, and stop after you fully pass over the object.
-- For flat black you can get by with over lapping only a quarter of the pervious spray. For gloss over lap one half the pervious spray. Don’t worry about runs as they can always be sanded out.
Steve - working class choppers
-- I would also recommend if you can find it using "Plasti-Kote" engine flat black
-- I use the engine enamel everywhere as it holds up to heat, oil, gas etc.
-- I do not recommend "Duplicolor" which is the readily available automotive spray paint where i live - pain in the ass and cure time is terrible - paint in 1 hr or you have to wait 7 days to cure - i have had this stuff lift on me before and it sux
-- The "Plasti-Kote" will allow you to recoat anytime you like.Drostar100
I agree Duplicolor sucks........I used it once and it never did fully harden, you could make a dent in it with your fingernail two weeks later. When I went to sand it off and re do it, the paint wouldn't even sand it was so soft. I had to chemically strip it and it peeled off like rubber almost.
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Powder Coating (updated06/23/08)
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How-To Articles
Powder Coating & Polishing Basics - Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine
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Vendors:
Jason Langhoff jtml4200@yahoo.com Deluxe Powder Coating Rawkstar Designs
515 S Santa Fe St, Santa Ana, CA 92705
714-835-7395 949-350-5154(Bought Joker's business - does good work)
Cherokee Chopper Works -- Contact: cherokeechoppers21@hotmail.com Pictures Prices
Columbia Coatings - Color Samples
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Powder Coating & Polishing Basics - Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine
Caswell - How To Buff & Polish
DIY Stainless Steel Polishing - imnezrider (mdpar3)
"For stainless steel, the most common is:
- 143 a medium cut (gray) stainless steel compound or polish (good for a consistent finish and light scratches)
or
- 126 white bar for a mirror finish on stainless steel.
These compounds both work well with an 8 inch X cs (concentric sewn) buffing wheel X 40 ply -- the tighter the stitching the more aggressive and faster it will polish. Then using the same type of buff with less stitching for mirror finish."
Couple of buffing wheels, compound. Clamp your trusty drill upside down in your vise, chuck up a pad and do it. May not be high tech, but very little expense...and gets the job done.
Pads - http://www.swmetal.com/cart/buffs?request=show&size=3%22
Polish - http://www.swmetal.com/cart/search?category=Polishing%20Compounds -
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DIY Transfers / Decals
From liljon51 (RONALD4812) - here's a forum thread on a way to turn any picture printed on slick magazine type paper into a decal you can apply to your bike.
http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=20613.1
Custom Vinyl Decals -- SilverBack (AGBack)
Here's a picture: http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/images/Gorilla-Pix/New%20Pipes%20Rite%20Side%20Angled%202.jpg
of the auto vinyl decal I had custom-made and applied to both sides of my tank, and also on the wind shield,and my helmet.
I did all the artwork myself, and sent a file for each of the two sides (format was encapsulated postscript) to my local sign shop. They will do the artwork and translation to eps - at an hourly cost - forget how much. They cut the decals from single color automotive quality vinyl (7 yr color guarantee).
Cost to me was $12 for each decal - I bought 4 total - 2 left side, 2 right.
They went on easy with their instructions - and can be removed with hair dryer and Goo-Gone. they are NOT reusable.
Any sign shop that does commercial vehicles should be able to do this for you.
Also, there are several places on-line that will do lettering for you in many fonts - same technology. Some also will do artwork , etc for this type of work and also will do custom multiple color decals.
http://www.speedysigns.com/
http://www.speedgraphics.net/index.htm (I have used these guys for Lettering - Nice)http://westonsigns.com/index.php Good selection Fantastic prices!
((The multiple color stuff is interesting, essentially they have "ink jet" printers, ink and vinyl that allows printing just like on paper only on automotive vinyl stock.)) -
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Decal Sources:
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Decal, Sticker, Emblem Removal (updated 05/18/07)
3-D Decals - best removed by carefully "sawing" behind the decal with fishing line (or dental floss - weak!) until it comes off. Then use Goo-Gone to soak the remaining foam backing and glue, allow it to penetrate and then rubbing it off with your thumb (avoid suing anything that might scratch your finish / chrome.
Flat Decals & Labels: Heat with hair dryer and carefully remove, using Goo-Gone to remove the final glue residue.
Thread started by GruuvinRob on techniques to do it easy!http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=22306.1
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Graphic/Decal Install (updated 5/20/06)
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GenLightening (GeneraLight)
Here is a more complete one. Some may not be applicable when working on curved surfaces. I got a lot of practice on the racebikes (not from crashing!) and this works well.
Application Temperature should be between 50 to 90 degrees. Move vehicle to garage or enclosed area if necessary.
Cleaning Procedure: It is important that the vehicle surface be free from wax,grease and any contaminants. You can use Prep-Sol, or other solvent wax and tar remover. Once all contaminants are removed, wipe over area again with rubbing alcohol using a clean lint freee cloth. Wipe a final time with another clean cloth dampened with water. You will know if the vehicle is cleaned properly if your finger "drags" along the surface.
Application Fluid: Fill a spray bottle with water. Add ½ squirt of liquid hand soap (NOT dishwashing liquid). Do not over estimate on soap (it
will take longer for the graphic to set up). Add 1 teaspoon of rubbing alcohol.
1. First, determine where you would like to place the graphic on the vehicle. Make sure graphic is positioned properly, using masking tape to
hold it in place if necessary. You can also use masking tape to give you a guideline if you need one.
2. Slowly peel away the release liner from one half of the graphic and cut it off, exposing the adhesive.
3. Using the application fluid, wet the vehicle surface and the exposed adhesive side of the graphic thoroughly. This will help you position the graphic kit without it sticking too quickly. Lightly position the graphic and starting from the center, squeegee overlapping strokes to push out the solution from under the graphic. This will remove most of the air and water bubbles. Repeat this process for the other half of the graphic kit.
4. Before removing the transfer tape, squeegee again using firm pressure to make sure you have removed as much solution as possible. Slowly
remove the transfer tape back on itself (180 degrees) at an angle. If the vinyl lifts with the transfer tape, re-squeegee it down using firm pressure.
5. After removing the transfer tape, squeegee over the graphic again lightly to remove any remaining solution or air bubbles. Any remaining air bubbles can be removed by using a pin and pushing the air out.
6. Trim the graphic where necessary. Use an Exacta or single edge blade and trim lightly. Any openings such as doors and fender breaks should be trimmed back away from edges at least 1/8 of an inch.
7. Wipe the surface of remaining solution with a clean dry cloth.
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Scoop, chin (updated 04/21/04)
Good thread on forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=28269.1
