>> Last Updated: 05/14/2011 10:40 AM Central Time <<

22. Miscellaneous Operational Topics              (Back to Topics)

 Adjusting Your Bike - Make It Fit You   Break-In  Fuel: Tanks-Octane-Gauge-Stabilizer  Choke Use   Insurance Topics  Short People Setup  Shipping a Bike  Young Kid Passengers   Riding with Carpal Tunnel Syndrome - CTS

1. Riding with Carpal Tunnel Syndrome - CTS: (updated 07/27/09)

    Forum Thread

    

2. Adjusting Your Bike - Make It Fit  (Updated 08/30/09)

    

   Bike Setup - Ride Like a Cop Course  (Northwest Motorcycle School) from article on Motorcycle Consumer News

    

   Handlebar Position - adjust to just clear your knees with about an inch to spare when moved from lock to lock.  This provides the most leverage without the bars being out of reach on maximum turn.  (You "apers" are gonna have a problem doing this - heh, heh, heh.)

    

   Clutch, Brake Lever Angle - Extend your hands out in a line with your arms above the bars, then drop your arms down until your hands rest on the grips - then adjust the levers to align with an imaginary line running through the shoulder.

    

   Mirrors - adjust so you are using the upper half of the mirror to view rear traffic - then you will still be able to see traffic when the front dives due to hard braking.

   Kent_In_KC Comments: I respectfully disagree. On hills you will find yourself not being able to see cars coming downhill at you. Mirrors should be on target, straight and level. You can't adjust them for a condition (brake dive) that may occur a few seconds each day at the expense of good vision the rest of the time.

    

   SilverBack responds: Given the choice, I would go with the original advice - hard braking usually "sort of an emergency" and a clear rear view without any manual or mental adjustment is a must (to let you know the cage behind you is not responding fast enough). Any normal situation that has me going down hill or sitting at the bottom of a hill allows me the "leisure" to manually and mentally adjust my angle of view - to watch my six, so to speak.  (The choice, IMHO is like deciding to dress for the crash, and not the ride).

    

    

   More: Motorcycles Adjustments - An  Article by mitchelguita:
   
   When I started riding Motorcycles back in the dark ages the dealer did two things that are almost impossible to find today, first the let you test ride a motorcycle before you purchased it and second they would set the motorcycle up so that is was adjusted for you. Most people today have what I call the cowboy mentality, everybody wants to jump on the horse and ride away like the cowboys did in the movies. So I’m asking the question does you bike fit you?
   
   Brake and clutch levels: where does your fingers rest on them, are you barely reaching out for them with the tips of you fingers or can you only use two fingers to squeeze them? If this is you sooner or later we will hear about your fall. Your finger at rest should cover the levers no father away then last knuckle joint of your fingers and you should be using all four of you fingers to squeeze the levers.
   
   Mirrors; do you look like a bobble head trying to see what going on behind you or are you admiring all the pins and patches you have on your vest. You might get away with this for a long time just going straight but sometime in the future you going to be changing lanes or riding a curvy road and Oh boy watch out. You should be able to keep you head upright, looking straight ahead and glancing by moving just you eyes see one to four car lengths in the next lane on either side of you without more than ¼ of your arms or shoulders being seen in the inside of the mirrors.
   
   Handle Bars: does riding the your motorcycle leave you all tingly, is that burning joint in your elbow or shoulder, or has riding become one big pain in the neck. If it has you need to adjust your handle bars. Today most people thing that the stretched out over the gas tank look of a $60,000 custom is cool looking, however nothing will end you riding career sooner then constant neck, back, and shoulder pain whether on or off the motorcycle. As you mother told you sit up straight and bring the handle bars to you.
   
   Suspension: when I started riding motorcycles you could always tell the old timers as they would enter a bar sideways, it always looked like someone dropped them more then three times. Why? Because back in the day a motorcycle’s suspension was nothing more than a crude spring under your butt and some rubbery gripes. Today motorcycle’s suspensions are an engineering marvel. So adjust it for your riding style.
   
   Foot Pegs: ladies bear with us men as we never had to sit in one of those examination tables. Nothing will shorten a ride faster than having your knees higher than you belt buckle. All that blood get stuck in your legs it become oxygen depleted, without oxygen tissue start to die. This is the number one reason when a group of riders stop they are jumping around looking like they are doing the River Dance. Adjust the pegs so that there are no sharp angles at you hips, knees or feet.
   
   Brake and Shift Levers; speaking of River Dance is that what you look like when using the shifter or brake peddles. If you have to remove your foot from the pegs to shift or brake you are adding precious seconds especially when you might need them most. Your Shifting foot should not have to move more than 30 degrees to shift gears. Your brake foot not more then 45 degrees from contact to full brake.
   
   Headlights; we all like a nice pair of headlights especially when the high beams are on, but this is the most overlooked item on a motorcycle today. The headlight should be adjusted for the rider ability to see. When sitting on the motorcycle with your head straight up and looking straight ahead the headlight should illuminate a cars length straight (not to the right or left) ahead of your ability to see. This way when you change to the high beams you should be able to see an additional three cars length ahead. It will guarantee that not only will you see what coming but that you will be seen as well.
    

    

3. Fuel Related Topics (updated 09/09/08)

    

   1. What Fuel To Use

       

      Regular! (87 Octane via AVG method) -- The consensus is that you get NO better performance and DO lose mileage if you use higher octane fuel. Higher octane fuels are for higher compression ratio engines - to prevent knock / ping. Not needed in our bikes.

       

      Note:

      There are 3 method of measuring signifying Octane:

            Research Octane Number (RON or R) and

            Motor Octane Number (MON or M) and

            Pump Octane Number (PON or P) which is the average of the other 2,  or P = (R+M)/2.

      Pump octane is used in the US, Canada and a few other countries - but not in Europe or Australia, which use RON.

      In Europe/Australia, the manual will tell you to use 91 Octane and they refer to RON.

      In the US and Canada, the manual will tell you to use 87 octane - PON.

      91 RON = 87 PON, and 87 PON = 91 RON

       

      Note: When riding in higher altitudes, you will find that the Octane "Score: has been lowered due to that higher altitude (87 gets derated to 85) - stick with the lowest Octane rated gas - the 85 runs fine!!!

       

      Note: the above applies in all cases where you have the stock pistons - with or without without aftermarket cams.  If you move up to high compression pistons, then you would need higher octane - but that is the only case.

       

   2. Gas Gauge - Lack Thereof   (updated 3/12/06)

       

      SORRY!!! Everyone wants a gas gauge for these bikes! They keep forgetting to reset the trip odo on fill up and then are forced to find gas using the auxiliary tank after the "cough and sputter"

       

      Sounds like a nice idea - but this topic has come up about 25 times since I joined the forum - the answer always is: No Can Do. Appears no-one has engineered a sensing / sending unit / float mechanism to fit into the tank, be calibrated for the tank, and interface to some gauge. Sorry - but you are out of luck.

       
      That's the bad news! The good news - you have 40-60 miles on reserve to find a gas station or backtrack to the last one! AND the experience will eventually teach you to rest the trip odometer every fill up - I had to make it step one o gas up, even before I shut down the engine - reset trip odo, make sure I didn't just switch to odo, shut down engine, off with glove, etc, etc, etc <BAG>

       

   3. See also - Carbs - gunk, etc  In the KB 2nd subtopic

       

   4. Gasoline Stabilizers / Storage  (updated 08/17/09)

       

      New Ethanol Fuel Treatments - Thread - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=44104.1

      
      Background - Submitted by Neville Lee Archer of Lee Archer & Co (Thanks to AussieCobb)
      
      The petrol used today is different in characteristics and components used as compared to the petrol seen even 5-7 years ago and vastly different than that seen 10-15 years ago.
      
      Two factors are present to shorten the shelf life of fuel:
      
      1. Economic: stretching the amount of petrol available from a barrel of crude oil
      2. Environmental: addition of oxygenating ingredients in an attempt to improve overall air quality.
      
      Both of the above factors result in fuel which has shorter shelf life, is harder on soft components (elastomers) and leaves deposits (gum, tar, varnish) at a far more rapid rate than for fuels of the past.
      
      In the 1950s, approximately 28% of a barrel of crude oil was refined into petrol. This was known as straight-run petrol. As the most lucrative high-volume product of crude oil is petrol, petroleum companies have developed ever-more exotic refining and cracking methods to pull more petrol from a barrel of crude oil. Today, that 28% has been increased to over 45% and, depending on the source of the crude, can go to as much as 75%. The negative effect in the more exotic refining processes is that they create olefins and diolefins which shorten shelf life due to oxidation and promote the rapid development of tars, gums and varnishes. For this reason, most OPE manufacturers recommend 30 days as the recommended shelf life for petrol. If used in extreme high temperature conditions and stored in an aboveground fuel container (plastic petrol container), we would shorten that to 1 week maximum.
      
      Note: shelf life of petrol can be extended by use of an oxidation reduction compound known as fuel stabilizer. Several manufacturers offer this compound; among the most commonly used world-wide is Sta-Bil (tm) . Use of these compounds as directed can extend the shelf life of petrol as long as 1 year.
      
      It is our position that use of a fuel stabilizer for engines that will be stored for a period of time is superior to draining fuel and running the carburetor dry. The potential for damage to diaphragms and gaskets is far greater as those components dry out.

       

      Gasoline Stabilizers - Excellent Article by Kent on www.VirginiaWind.com 

       

   5. All You Ever Wanted to know About Gasoline

       

      Link provided by lownox:  http://www.turborick.com/gsxr1127/gasoline.html

       

   6. Auxiliary Tanks:

       

      http://www.tourtank.com/tourtanks.html

       

   7. Shop Auxiliary Tanks (added 03/19/10)

      $16 DIY - http://tidyville.roadstarclinic.com/auxfuel.html

    

4. Break-In Period

    

   One of our most respected tech guys has this comment:

   “Yeah - But ... the owner's manual says to break it in easy ...

   Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ???
           A: Failure to: Warm the engine up completely before running it hard!!!

   Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
           A: An easy break in !!!

   Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !!

   Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine!!"
   --- --- --- ---

   I have used the “street” break-in procedure outlined by Moto-Man on EVERY single new bike and car I have owned in the last thirty years.  http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm   However. . . most folks just won’t step out of the box and give it a try. . . .

    

   Daddo (Larry Marino) - A sinner Saved by Grace
   DaddoCFL@BellSouth.net

    

5. Choke Use   (updated 12/17/08)

    

   Use of the throttle during starting: 1) does nothing to help you start; 2) can lead to twisted starter bolts and failure on older models; and 3) most expensively, cause starter kickback and ruin the started clutch - repairs' that can run from $300 to $800 depending on how much of the work you do your self.  (See:  Starters for more details) So, use the technique explained in the owners manual and emphasized below!! Or else . . .

    

   The “choke” on an 1100 is not really a choke at all. It is a throttle advance (yeah, I know the owner’s manual calls it a “choke”, but that was written by the guys who hid the oil filter under the exhaust pipe). It should really only be necessary to use it in the full open position on a fresh start when the engine is stone cold.
   
   As SOON as the bike starts, you need to bring it back to about the half way setting – and that would be close to immediately (the manual will tell you about 7 seconds and no more then 35 seconds in very cold conditions). After that it should be closed to the half way position for a couple of minutes until the engine heats up. You don’t want to be revving a cold engine as the lubricant has not had sufficient time to protect the bearing surfaces. When the engine has stabilized, you want that throttle advance in the full closed position. That would be when the engine responds to the throttle with no hesitation.
   
   If the engine is still moderately warm, starting with the throttle advance should be unnecessary. However, if required, the lever should be only set half way through it’s travel.

    

   --- Daddo (Larry Marino)

    

   Also, To quote the Clymers manual.....
   
   "The choke circuit is a "bystarter" system. The choke lever in this system opens a starter valve rather than closing the butterfly in the venturi. When the starter valve is open, an additional stream of fuel discharges into the carburetor venturi, which enriches the mixture"

    

6. Short People Setup  (updated 05/14/11)

    

   Discussion: Setting Up for a 5ft Tall Rider (A Real good Thread / Discussion)

    

   Another good "short people: thread on the forum

    

   See Forward Controls for shortening option

    

7. Insurance Topics  (updated 6/03/06)

    

   1. After An Accident:

       

      AZPerk3:

      Regarding the repairs here are my thoughts and experience. The initial physical damage examination and estimate are just that ... an initial determination by looking at the visible damage. Once the repairs are underway and hidden damage is found then that info is given to the Insurance Adjuster and the additional repair costs will be considered. When this occurs then a second decision is made if the vehicle is still repairable or should be totaled.
      
      If the additional repairs are OK'd then the costs are approved and the bike is repaired.
      
      If the decision is made that the additional damages do exceed the value of the bike and the bike is totaled, you always can buy the bike back as salvage with a salvage title.
      
      Once the salvage bike has had repairs completed you will have to have the repairs examined by the Department of Motor Vehicles. The DMV will examine the repairs and decide if the bike is road worthy and can be registered.
      
      Also do not forget about the medical portion of your claim which is very important since it sounds like your going to miss some work and will experience lost wages, not to mention the hospital visit and the ambulance ride. I bet you will have physical therapy and prescription expenses also.
      
      Don't forget the replacement of your helmet. I would also want my leathers replaced even if they are just scuffed up. Pain and suffering will also be considered in the final medical settlement.
      
      Once the bike is repaired/replaced and you are able to ride again you will see how insurance works.
      
      It has been my experience that most Insurance Adjusters will work with you and will do all they can for you.

       

8. Shipping a Bike  (updated 11/07/08)

    

   Forum Thread on Shipping a Bike

    

   Links:

   http://www.motorcycleshippers.com/s_shippingprices.htm

   http://www.haulbikes.com/

   http://www.1800biketow.com/

   http://www.eagleoneexpress.com/

    

9. Young Kid Passengers  (added 06/14/09)

    

   Thread on this topic:  http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=42605.1

    

   SilverBack's personal suggestions:

   1. NEVER ride with a child in front of you on the tank - in a crash your body will crush that child - even a low speed crash will happen fast enough that you will not be able to grab and hold the child and off they will fly.

   2. NEVER ride a child unless they can completely reach the rear pegs or board. (note; some folks have added "lifts" tightly to the pegs/boards, and that may be OK)

   3. I am personally unsure of the safety of the special harness available for kids - and they even tell you that the kids feet must be able to touch the pegs/boards.  My concern - the child is attached to you ans as you go so go they - and maybe under your body.

   4. Just as you should dress for the crash and not the ride, you should alwyas consider the crash that might occurs and its IMPACT on the child.

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